Here's some news in a nutshell. There have been no major changes since our last update on 28 June. A bit of fresh snow at altitude and a very variable night-time refreeze, which directly affects alpine activities. As far as rock climbing is concerned, the rock is drying quickly, then gets wet again. If in doubt, contact us! A weekend of disturbed weather is forecast, so it remains to be seen what the conditions will be like at the start of the week, with fresh snow, refreezing and wind at altitude. 

 

There is still some snow (and snow just below the refuge) on the way to Albert 1er, which is OK for good hikers. Otherwise, no major changes, but conditions in the high mountains will depend on the refreezing. 

 

 

Conditions are good if there is a freeze for the following routes: Couloir en Y, Flèche Rousse, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière, Charlet Straton. There are also good conditions on the Glacier du Milieu, but this is only for experienced climbers. If we get some sunshine, rock climbing conditions will be great. To access the hut, get on the glacier from the Point de Vue. You need to be roped up on the glacier.

 

 

 

You'll have to wait for the snow to melt before you can climb the Drus, although it's possible for good climbers who know the route. Teams planned for l'Evêque, Sale Athée and l'Aiguille du Moine. Waiting for them to return. On 04/07 a party climbed Pointe Wenger, dry rock and a good approach.

 

 

 

The snow has gone on the hut path. A lot of activity on the Aiguille du Moine: the névés on the normal route can be avoided but it's better to bring crampons. The S ridge and E face are dry. The Nonne-Evêque traverse is also ok (no snow on the “rasoir”). The Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte can be done if there is a freeze (big runnels to cross, accessible belays). Teams have bailed on the Droites and on the traverse of the Courtes (poor freeze). Lots of cornices on the Jardin ridge.

 

 

 

Open and guarded again. Conditions as of Thursday 4th on the refuge's Facebook page: 

 

"This morning's freezing conditions were great, so all the snow routes were excellent.

- aiguille de l'Eboulement via the SW couloir ✅️

- Les Périades via the Mallet glacier ✅️

- circuit from the refuge under the Jorasses ✅️

- Petites Jorasses and aiguille de Leschaux: wait 1 or 2 days for the rocks to dry. 

- climbing routes above the refuge ✅️

- Mer de Glace balcon path ✅ but beware, there's still a lot of snow = crampons compulsory!"

 

The ladders are being refurbished today (05/07) for access to the Refuge du Requin and the Envers des Aiguilles. Access will therefore be 5-star. 

 

 

 

The climbing is dry and sunny! The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is trouble-free. Access via the Midi Plan was also tracked on 04/07. 

 

There's still snow at the start of the Pierre Alain and the Dent du Requin, but it's not too bad. Rimaye de l'Aiguille du Plan OK.

 

The Ryan was done on 04/07: "good rimaye, still quite a bit of snow in the north facing gullies and accumulations on some terraces. Longer route than usual", said the guardian. 

 

 

 

Kuffner in good condition on 04 and 05/07. Good refreezing thanks to the clear nights. A team on the Arêtes du Diable did everything with crampons. Might be worth waiting a bit. Rochefort tiptop but no one has continued on to the Grandes Jorasses traverse. Two teams to the summit of the Noire de Peuterey, probably via the S ridge. One team to the red pillar of Brouillard. No one on the Innominata ridge. 

 

 

 

"Cross the glacier from the old "gare des glaciers" and approach the Jonction with crampons on. The Jonction at the bottom is fine, with markers on the glacier to guide you to the best route. 

Very good snow cover from the Jonction onwards, wuth the possibility of being on skis from 2800m. The North ridge of the Gouter has been tracked (snow). Track on the plateaux. North face skied yesterday (04/07) and should be skied this morning (05/07). Refuge open and manned until the end of the month”.

 

 

 

The couloir is still well filled in with snow. Be careful, however, with the latest "warm spells" and the time of day when you use the couloir. The couloir (including the “bédière”- the runnel dug by flowing water) can be crossed without any particular difficulty. The crevasses of the Dôme are generally well filled in. Overall, the route to Mont Blanc is in good condition. 

 

Lots of people on the “Royal traverse" from the Durier hut. 

 

 

 

Great conditions. Access to the hut is now via the summer path, with a few snow patches, but at this altitude, the snow is melting quickly. If you access via the glacier, you'll have to take off your boots and cross the river, which isn't great! The traverse to the Durier is fine. 

 

 

As for hiking, the snow persists above 2300/2400m. So you need to be careful about the routes you take. 

 

For Lac Blanc, the access path from the Index chairlift is not recommended. There is a lot of snow on steep terrain. It is therefore preferable to access the refuge and lake from the Flégère gondola, as you won't be walking in the snow on this route. It's all about walking! The snow is just above the refuge.

 

- Tour du Mont Blanc: The snow is melting all along the route, but the 3 main cols and the Col du Brévent are still covered in snow. Crampons and walking poles are still recommended. As far as alternatives are concerned, only the Col du Tricot is recommended. It is still too early to consider the Col des Fours, Pas d'entre deux Sauts and Arpette. 

 

- Tour des Aiguilles Rouges & Tour des Fiz: Crampons are still highly recommended, particularly for the northern slopes.

 

- The Jonction (Gite à Balmat) looks doable, but there are still some névés at the summit. Beware of steep and potentially exposed terrain. 

 

- In the Val Montjoie, there is no more snow at the Col de la Fenêtre, on the way to the Jovet lakes (remember, no bivouacking or swimming in the area in July and August) and on the ridge between the Aiguille Croche and Mont Joly. Crampons and ice axes are still required for getting to the Robert Blanc via l'Enclave and the Grande Ecaille.

 

 

We'd like to thank all the refuges and all the people who contribute in any way to providing us with information. Your feedback is extremely useful to us!

 

 

 

An update for the end of June! There hasn’t been much change since last week. Conditions up high for snow routes remain tricky (freeze, wind) and weather windows have been few and far between. Today it looks like the mountains are warming up a bit and things may start to change quickly.

 

The classics are being done regularly. Several teams have turned back when the freeze has been poor. On the Chardonnet, the Forbes Arête is very snowy which makes it difficult to protect. The Migot Spur is in excellent condition when there’s a freeze. The Escarra has been done (well filled). It’s best to take a 60 meter rope if you are descending the new abseil line as some belays are more than 25m apart. You could think about doing the normal route as the rimaye is well filled. The hut is mostly packed out. 

The hut opened last weekend. The Plan Joran lift is open (only for alpinists and rock climbers) 7h40 to 8h20 ; 13h40 to 14h20 and 17h10 to 17h50. Closed on Sunday.

 

When you get to the glacier, traverse diagonally to the right bank heading for the Chardonnet. You need to be roped up as you’re wandering around amongst crevasses. It’s too early for the ladders as these are still under snow. Snow routes including: Col du Tour Noir, Glacier du Milieu, Aiguille du Tour Noir, Pointe Supérieure des Améthystes and Arête du Jardin are in good condition if there’s a good freeze. The Flèche Rousse has been tracked (2 axes best). If there has been a day of good weather to dry the rock, you can certainly climb on the lovely red granite up here.

 

The Refuge is still shut following last week's rock fall. It may be possible to open next week. The winter room remains open. The path to the hut is snowy but there’s a good track. Well equipped and experienced walkers could consider it. The last few periods of warm and good weather (there weren’t many!) brought an end to the mixed season on the Grandes Jorasses. We’re heading into the rock climbing season but we may need to wait for a few days of good weather to climb on the Petites Jorasses. The routes around the huts are doable. The Mont Mallet glacier is tracked. No track on the Aiguille de l’Eboulement but it looks OK.

 

 

 

The snow is melting on the access paths to the Charpoua and the Couvercle but you need to stay alert. There are still some snow patches and some slabs are wet. There are also snow patches on the path from the Couvercle to the Leschaux  The path onto the glacier is delicate.

 

Conditions on the Whymper are also very dependent on the freeze. Feedback from recent teams was that the rimaye can be crossed on the left-hand side, the secondary couloir has hard snow with a more technical icy bit at the top, then unconsolidated snow for the traverse into the main colour. The rest is okay as well as the summit ridge.

 

The Col Armand Charlet has lots of snow making it more technical. Nobody on the Arête/Aiguille du Jardin or the Androsace as there is still too much snow.

 

The normal route on the Droite has been tracked as well as the Courtes there and back. The Pointe Isabelle and the Col des Cristaux are fine.

 

No rock climbing activity as there is too much snow. There is still a lot of snow on the normal route on the Moine but the South ridge and the Contamine have dried out. 

 

Poor freeze has also been an issue up here. On the night of 26/27 June teams heading for the Whymper were sinking in up to their knees.

 

 

 

One team on the Contamine on the Drus without any further information, particularly about the glacier route. There was also an attempt at the Directe Américaine but it stalled because there was too much snow above the “bloc coincé”.  The window for Sale Athée seems to be approaching.

 

 

There's climbing practically everywhere. There's still a bit of snow on some of the routes on Aiguille de Roc and Très-la-Porte.

 

A party has climbed the Grépon-Mer de Glace but it's too early. The rimaye passes tiptop but after that theres a lot of snow and water, snow mushrooms on the top: they did it all in big boots.

 

Descent via the Nantillons glacier in soft snow, lots of purges. Abseil belays were visible , but a bit of a “canyoning" atmosphere.

 

Teams on the Aiguille du Fou (Voie Américaine and Ailes du Désir).

 

 

 

Access to the refuge from Montenvers is on the left bank of the glacier.

 

The ascent/descent of the Vallée Blanche is tracked and goes well even if it is often soft...

 

Glacier de l'Envers du Plan (Midi-Plan descent) tracked.

 

Teams on  Congo Star (snowy access).

 

 

 

Still lots of people (perhaps too many people) on the classics. Nobody on the Jorasses traverse Travis as there is too much snow and lots of cornices. The Rochefort is ok when there’s a freeze. Access to the salle a manger is still on snow. On the Tour Ronde the north face and the Gervusatti are still ok. You need to descend (and if necessary climb) by the Freshfield Arête. The Kuffner Arête is being done and it’s good when there’s a freeze. Watch out for overcrowding.

 

One team left this morning for the Diable traverse but there's surely still a lot of snow. You can climb on the Tacul satellites: Grand Capucin (voie des Suisses/O Sole Mio OK by the direct start or the couloir); Pointe Adolphe Rey; Pyramide du Tacul.

 

 

 

There's still quite a bit of snow at the top of the S face of the Aiguille du Midi, but it's climbable! It's dry on the S face of the Pointes Lachenal.

 

The Trois Monts route is still in very good condition (the rimayes on the Maudit are fine, the Col du Mont Maudit is in snow: be careful on the descent as there is no protection).

 

Arête Midi-Plan, goulotte du Triangle du Tacul OK if refreezing. One party attempted the Bodin-Afanasieff but turned back due to lack of refreeze.

 

 

 

The rock is drying out nicely.

 

There's still snow on the Peigne normal route, which makes it a bit more complicated. The window of opportunity is there for the Frendo Spur. On the other hand, the Mallory-Porter is nearing the end.

 

It's still too early for Charmoz-Grepon, the NW ridge of Blaitière and the Aiguilles de Chamonix traverse, but today it's drying out visibly.

 

 

 

You need to carry skis as far as the glacier. The Jonction can be crossed low down (one bridge to watch out for). It’s tracked on foot and skis, as is the north ridge of the Dôme du Goûter.

 

The north face and plateaux are still in good condition for skiing, provided you aim for the right time (a serac fall on the north face at the classic spot probably messed up the exit from the face)...

 

 

 

Now mountaineers (only) can take advantage of the trains to the Nid d'Aigle (trains at 7am, 12pm and 4pm, booking and presentation of a reservation in one of the refuges required).

 

Good conditions for the moment. On the Bosses ridge, most teams take the path (steep but easy) on the north face to get around the “mauvaise arete".

 

 

 

Access from the Miage refuge is possible with dry feet up to the junction of the two paths. There is still snow on the path from the Col du Tricot.

 

Things are calming down in the area. Bad refreeze, hot weather: the snow is melting and the crevasses are opening up. 

 

However, in the words of the guardian, “The Mettrier remains beautiful". The route is still passable. It may be preferable to take the Lenoir option. 

 

The access to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier is in snow, better with a good refreeze. 

 

Good conditions overall on the busy Aiguille de Bionnassay route.

 

 

 

Access via the glacier is no longer possible. The snow is melting fast on the path, but beware of snow bridges over the torrents, which are high and hollowed out by the high flows (due to the recent heavy rainfall + melting).

 

With a good freeze, all the routes in the area are in good condition - we can't say better than that.

 

 

 

The general conditions are still good, regardless of the quality of the freeze. However, we need to be cautious about the crevasses on the Dôme glacier.

 

A team climbed the Tournette Spur: access OK to Quintino Sella if refreezing, but plan to be early. Rimaye OK but the upper part not so easy due to the quality of the snow.

 

 

 

Aiguille Croux: plan to use crampons and ice axe for access: Cheney route (on descent, we put crampons back on for the median névé of the normal route but the abseil belays are clear); routes on the SE face (Ottoz, Euroteam, Jean- Marie etc) with descent via the Euroteam abseil belays.

 

A team is due to head for the Eccles tomorrow, to be continued (but from the looks of things all the routes are well loaded with snow and cornices above).

 

 

 

Few changes. No problem for well-equipped hikers (good shoes, poles, small crampons in the bag). Beware of a torrent crossing at the Col de la Seigne. The Tricot option is feasible, but not the others (Col des Fours, Pas d'entre deux Sauts, Val d'Arpette closed by the municipality of Orsières).

 

 

 

This activity is reserved for experienced hikers with good crampons! The Cols du Brévent and de Salenton require caution and a mountain footing.

 

 

 

Lots of snow on the grand balcon paths.

 

Lac Blanc (still snow-covered!): a 20-minute walk in the snow from La Flégère (OK with poles and good shoes). Crampons are useful from the Col des Montets/Trè-le-Champs and the Lacs des Chéserys. Still not recommended from the Index; nor is the Planpraz-col Cornu - col de la Glière - Index section.

 

It's also too snowy for hikers on the Col de la Terrasse, Albert 1er and Jonction sections.

 

 

 

Because of the snow, it's still too early to consider this trek (more alpine than the TMB, with several passes approaching 3000m). Most hikers are cancelling for the time being.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

 

We've had a brief taste of summer over the last few days, but high pressure is struggling to get going. As for the wind, it seems to want to settle in for good...

 

Classic conditions for June! In the high mountains, there's a lot of snow and random refreezes (short nights, but the good news is that the days are starting to shorten today... frequent SW winds, cloudy skies), which certainly affects conditions on snow routes. The rock is gradually drying out and is an alternative in the event of poor refreezing. Refreezing has been particularly bad over the last two days, greatly limiting activity. The rain, warm wind and sand have melted the snow visibly, but the snow cover remains promising!

 

In the "moyenne montagne", there's still plenty of snow, which means you need to adapt your choice of hikes and equipment.

 

 

 

No snow patches now on the path up to Albert 1er from Charamillon/Tête de Balme. Snow can be found on the slope just before the moraine. Last Saturday's heavy rains caused a landslide above the couloir on the "moraine path", but this had no impact on practicability.

 

All the classic routes in the area have been climbed: Aiguille du Tour (couloir & Arête de la Table, normal route), Tête Blanche (normal route, N face), Petite Fourche. Good refreezing conditions are needed for the Aiguille du Chardonnet routes (Forbes arete and Migot spur).

 

There's still too much snow on the Dorées traverse, especially on the N side. It can be partially traversed E-W as far as the Col Copt.

 

There's plenty of climbing around the Orny hut including the Clocher du Portalet and on the S face of Les Dorées!

 

 

 

The refuge opens this Saturday, 22 June! As a reminder, there is uplift for mountaineers (only) on the Plan Joran gondola every day except Sunday): 7:30 - 8:30 am / 1:30 - 2:30 pm (ascent and descent) and 5:00 - 6:00 pm (descent only). Tickets can be purchased at the Plan Joran ticket machine (bank card only).

 

The route to the refuge is via the right bank of the glacier (a few crevasses to jump over, but it's fine). Too much snow for the moment on the ladder side.

 

The rock is drying out nicely, so you'll find plenty to do! Too much snow for the Jardin ridge.

 

If there is a decent refreeze snow routes should be fantastic. The Aiguille d'Argentière via the glacier du Milieu was done in good conditions last week. Looking at it, the Couturier couloir could still be climbed.

 

As a reminder, there are major works underway at Lognan-Les Grands Montets. The whole sector is off-limits (see map), but access to the Petite Verte and the Grands Montets ridge is still possible via the Col des Grands Montets (just don't head for the construction site).

 

 

 

The Charpoua refuge is reached via the balcony path (still too early for the "Charpoua Express" variant), on which there is still some snow. No activity apart from climbers on the Flammes de Pierre (the ropes on the Passages des Guides are in good condition, photo above).

 

Still steep névé in a couloir to cross to reach the Couvercle hut.

 

Still too much snow on the south face of the Moine (so too early for the S ridge and E face). Nobody on the other "ecclésiastiques" routes (Nonne, Evêque).

 

Good conditions for the Whymper on the Verte when there's a refreeze. The rimaye goes well, some belays may still be under the snow (plan two 60m ropes) much of the descent is down-climbing not abseiling.

 

Normal route on the Droites possible (lots of snow but no cornices), teams on the Courtes and back. Pointe Isabelle tracked, but needs to refreeze a bit for it to go well.

 

 

 

Several large boulders have fallen onto the terrace of the Leschaux refuge, which is unfortunately no longer guardianed until further notice. The winter room remains open (don't hang around too much on the terrace!)

 

Some opportunists seized the chance to climb the Linceul or Rêve Ephémère, but the foehn has put an end to that. The rock behind the refuge is dry. A period of fine weather should make the Petites Jorasses climbable.

 

The Mont Mallet glacier is going very well at the moment.

 

There are several gullies and névés to cross on the balcony path, so good crampons and ice axe are a must! Not suitable for hikers at the moment.

 

 

 

Bottom of the ladders: there's a knotted rope attached to the rope ladder. It's "sporty" and people abseil down it. The footpath department should intervene soon. 

 

You will find the snow halfway between the ladders and the refuge de l'Envers. It's on the slabs, so you have to be careful, especially when it's getting hot... Getting around the refuge isn't easy either. Hikers, this is not the time for you!

 

The SW wind has dried out the lower sectors (Tour Rouge, Tour Verte, Pointe des Nantillons, Aiguille de Roc: Pedro Polar) where you can climb without a care in the world. For the République normal route and the Grépon-Mer de Glace, a window of good weather should make them possible to climb.

 

The Requin refuge opens this Saturday, June 22. "Still a lot of névé in the couloir, between the ladders (photo below) as well as on the path but on the whole, it's fine".

 

 

 

Not much change up here, as conditions on the classics (Midi Plan ok up to Rognon, Triangle du Tacul etc.) vary with the wind and the refreeze!

 

The season switch (crampons gradually replacing skis) is underway on the Trois Monts route, which remains in good conditions (wind permitting).

 

 

 

Few changes here either (Rochefort, Dent du Géant, Marbrées, Entrèves, Tour Ronde: descent or access via the Freshfield arete). Bad refreeze in recent days and almost no activity. The Kuffner is possible when the freeze is good. We'll have to wait a little for the Jorasses and Aiguilles du Diable traverse.

 

 

 

The refuge is open.

 

You can climb the NE ridge of the Aiguille de l'M, the Pillar Rouge de Blaitière, the SW face of the Gendarme 3078m of the Peigne. Axe and crampons for access, obviously.

 

The Mallory has also been climbed recently, so keep an eye on it as conditions evolve. It's a bit early for the Frendo Spur, but the right window is coming up!

 

 

 

Mont Blanc can still be skied, but the sections on foot are getting longer. The Jonction higher path has deteriorated and you now have to take the lower path. Little has changed above: the Dôme's N ridge, plateaus, Corridors and N face are all good.

 

 

 

Nothing to add to the precise and recent information and photos published on the refuges social media:

 

Ascent to Tête Rousse:

 

- Option from Bellevue, traverse to the Plan de l'Are towards the Nid d'Aigle ladders, some névés at the top but generally dry.

- The Nid d'Aigle refuge has been open since June 8, so drop in and say hello 

- From Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse, most of the guides are still on the glacier, with very few people on the Rognes (presence of ice).

 

Ascent to Goûter:

 

- From Tête Rousse to Goûter, great condition, snow everywhere, the cables have been dug out.

- Dôme du Goûter: very good condition

 

And for the final sprint  : 

 

- Option 1: Arête des bosses, "mauvaise arete" icy, 2 threads on the Italian side, 1 thread on the Chamonix side 1m below the ridge. 

- Option 2: North face track in great condition both up and down.

 

 

 

The footbridge on the summer path leading to the Conscrits refuge has been reopened, and the guides have been busy making the path safer. The path can now be used, but beware: there are still many snow-covered sections on which slipping is not an option: crampons and ice-axe are essential, and the route is probably not suitable for hikers for another week or two...

 

For the ascent via the glacier, you now have to cross the torrent on a snow bridge. It is advisable to rope up for this passage, as the bridge will soon be very fragile.

 

Most of the routes in the area were climbed when the weather and refreezing allowed: traverse of the Miage, traverse as far as Durier, Aiguille de la Bérangère, Mont Tondu, traverse of the aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête, good conditions everywhere.

 

There's snow at 2600m when climbing up to the Plan Glacier. The Mettrier arete is still passable. The classic ascent to the Durier should only be considered when there's a good freeze and early in the morning!

 

Aiguille de Bionnassay: Be careful on the ridge before the rocky section (cornices, poor refreezing). Beyond that, it's OK (a few cornices in places on the NE ridge).

 

 

 

Good general conditions: good track, crevasses on the Dôme glacier but goes well, no ice below the Col des Aiguilles Grises or on the way to the Piton des Italiens.

 

 

 

The refuge opens today!

 

Lots of snow here too. (Photos above).

 

The ascent to the Eccles is untracked (the Pillars are still too snowy).

 

 

 

As a reminder, the routes to the left of the Frison Roche are closed until 15 July by a municipal by-law (work on the summit of the Brévent).

 

Crampons and ice axes are required to access the routes. There are a few névés in some of the less steep routes or in the transitions (Hotel California, Cocher-Cochon...).

 

A steep cornice on the Col des Crochues (you can belay the second on a spike on the N side).

 

Voie des Français (Aiguille du Pouce): snow-covered approach, cornice at the Aiguille de la Glière which is easy to avoid. The start is virtually at the second belay (10m below belay no 2, yellow rope). The return via the ridge is complicated (snow, ledges): it's better to wait a little longer!

 

The Perrons traverse is fine (crampons + ice axe).

 

 

 

We're starting with some good news: the Bellachat refuge will be open from Saturday 29 June! Bookings only by telephone on 07 75 83 02 70!

 

Most of the hikes are now accessible, but there is still snow on some of them: contact us to check the conditions. You'll need crampons and mountain boots for the Grand Balcon Nord, Lac Blanc from the Col des Montets and the Lacs des Chéserys, Brévent - Refuge de Bellachat section.

 

On the other hand, it's still too snowy for: Jonction, Gare des Glaciers, Mer de Glace balconies, refuge Albert 1er, col de la Terrasse, col de Salenton/Buet, lac Blanc from the Index, col de la Glière - lacs Noirs - lac Cornu - col Cornu, col du Brévent (you can get round this by going up to Brévent on the piste via the Brèche du Brévent).

 

Tour du Mont Blanc: fine for hikers with some experience (still quite a lot of snow but good tracks on the main passes: Bonhomme, Seigne, Grand col Ferret, Balme, Brévent: go around the latter via the piste and the breche du Brévent)... Good boots, poles and micro crampons in the rucksack are still essential. The Tricot variant is fine, but it's still too dangerous for the Fours and Arpette variants (see photo below for the latter). Watch out for slips/falls and river crossings! 

 

 

Tour des Aiguilles Rouges: it's very snowy at the moment. The first (very experienced) hikers have crossed the cols in the last few days. The trail is not very well marked, so it's quite physical. You need to know your way around on a map, as the paths are not visible for long stretches. Proper crampons are recommended. So this is for the most experienced hikers only! For the others, it's best to postpone!

 

 

Tour des Fiz: Here too, there is still a lot of snow on the route (above 2100m), particularly at the col d'Anterne, col de la Portette (photo above) and Dérochoir. The markings are still not very visible, so a navigation tool and appropriate equipment (poles and crampons) are strongly recommended. Flaine and the Varan from the Platé hut is for experienced hikers only.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Great weather, isn’t it? If you were quick off the mark you would have enjoyed blue skies on Wednesday and Thursday but we now have two days of unsettled weather before the next good spell. Metéo France stopped publishing an avalanche report on the 6th of June, but we shouldn’t forget the avalanche risk: lots of wind and fresh snow at altitude, so constant vigilance!

 

 

Not much change to report here. The snow is gradually disappearing but over the Cols Bonhomme, Seigne and Ferret there is continuous snow cover. We reiterate our previous advice about what is needed: good physical preparation, ability to analyse the safety of snow bridges and steep sections and adequate kit. We advise you against any TMB variants for the time being.

 

 

 

The Plan Praz and Brevent lifts are now open so walking and climbing activity will increase in the Aiguilles Rouges. Axe and crampons are essential for approaches to climbing routes.   Watch out for cornices and ice above you when you are climbing. The mountain lakes are still under snow. There is now a track in to get up to Lac Blanc from Flegere.  Good shoes/boots advised. We advise you against trying to get to Lac Blanc along the footpath from the Index as it is tricky terrain. Some patience will be needed before summer walking conditions arrive.

 

 

 

Lots going on around here. The snow is gradually melting on the approaches and becoming more weight-bearing so it’s less hard work than last week.  The Migot spur and the Forbes arete are in good condition but lots of snow around the summit.  Lots of people on the classic routes, which are in good condition: Couloir and Arête de la table, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, Aiguille du Tour. 

 

As far as approaches to the hut are concerned we advise against the summer path because of steep snowy slopes. It’s better to use the path by the moraine which is dry until you reach the usual summer path. Lots of people expected this weekend with the forecast good weather on Sunday.

 

 

No recent feedback on climbing. The hut opens on 20 June, so activity will probably pick up.

 

The Plan Joran lift will be open to alpinists from 22 June every day except Sunday. There will be a ticket machine (bank card only).  7h30 - 8h30 / 13h30-14h30 (ascent and descent) and 17h00 - 18h00 (descent only).

 

 

 

From the top of the ladders there are still a few snow patches so it’s still too early for walkers. Generally the snow is weight-bearing depending on the time of day. The rimayes are beginning to open up but nothing to report at present. It’s too early for the normal route on the Moine (very snowy) and for rock climbing in general. Lots of teams in the Whymper couloir yesterday. The approach can be done on foot but on the way back there may be deep snow depending on the timing. The rimaye is starting to open up but at the moment it’s okay.  Classic mistake: lots of teams start too far right at the bottom. All the belays have now been dug out. The S side of the Col Armand Charlet is OK. Far too much snow to consider the arete du Jardin. The classic traverse of the Grande Rocheuse via the normal route is fine.

 

Attempts at the normal route on the Droites but to no avail. One party reached the summit but not necessarily by the right route!

 

There and back on the Courtes can be done, but we'll have to wait for the weather to settle down before we can do the traverse.

 

No-one on the Pointe Isabelle! Snowshoes could be useful!

 

 

 

Lots of people on the Grandes Jorasses. The Aiguille de l'Eboulement and the Périades look to be in good condition. For climbing, the rock looks dry with glacier approaches well covered in snow. 

The Charpoua opens tomorrow, 15 June. It looks as though the Flammes de Pierre should be possible.

 

 

 

The Envers des Aiguilles opens tomorrow, June 15. To get to the first rungs of the ladders, you'll have to scramble. New rungs are due to be installed shortly to make access easier. Above, the snow has melted well but there are still continuous sections on the large slabs below the refuge and on the final ascent. Ice axes and crampons are required. It is possible to climb Les Nantillons and La Tour Verte. For the rest, we'll wait for the sun to come out to get a good view. 

 

 

 

Same as last week on the South faces of Aiguille du Midi and Lachenal: the climbing is going well in the steep pitches at the bottom. In the final pitches that are less steep, it may be preferable to put on big boots and crampons. Here too, beware of falling ice. 

 

A detailed recap of the conditions on the 3 Monts and the descent of the N face here.

 

The Triangle gullies (Négri, Grisolle, Mazeaud, Chéré) have been tracked. 

 

 

 

A lot of people on the classics (crossing the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrèves, but beware of the number of teams present).

 

The Tour Ronde routes are still in good condition. Be careful on the "normal route" down (E face) as it heats up quickly and strongly (rock falls from 9-10 am).

 

Good conditions on the Dent du Géant (good route to the Salle à Manger). The Arête de Rochefort (Rochefort ridge) was climbed as far as the Aiguille de Rochefort yesterday (beware of the wind and snow forecast for the near future).

 

A team climbed the Kuffner yesterday, Wednesday 13 June, but there was too much snow (cornices, etc.). We'll have to wait for a spell of good weather for the snow to settle.

 

There’s climbing on the steep routes on the Tacul satellites but beware of falling icicles. Snow on the ledges and sometimes a little ice in the cracks.

 

 

 

Conditions for accessing the Gouter are good and you can still leave from Bellevue or Bionnassay via the Plateau de l'Are (the municipal by-law prohibiting the approach via the Rognes and the rails is still in force). The tramway will reopen tomorrow as far as Bellevue, but work is continuing to reopen the upper section. 

 

The couloir below the Gouter is all snow, and with a good load-bearing capacity the approach is quick. Above, the passage through the ice to get a foothold on the “mauvaise arete" is improving, as the snow has stuck at this point.

 

The Tête Rousse and Gonella refuges are having problems with phone signal. For reservations ring the Gouter.

 

 

 

Guardian report: 15/06/24: "The access path from Miage is clear up to the junction with the Chemin des Contrebandiers (2600m), access possible in hiking boots with small crampons just in case."

 

On the Metrier, top conditions, good refreeze,  rimaye great  and snow not too deep.  Now there are some good steps....

 

Traversée des Dômes excellent conditions, perfect Chaborgne descent.

 

Bionnassay: south face. Very good refreeze, there were a few centimetres of fresh snow accumulated in the gullies, but otherwise it was perfect! Top conditions for skiing.

 

 

 

The Durier refuge is open, but the warden hasn't seen anyone yet. Lots of snow and lots of wind. We recommend climbing via the Métrier or the Conscrits. 

 

 

 

Access remains the same as in previous weeks: climb the left bank of the glacier, cross the widest part of the torrent (to limit the consequences if you enter the water). Then navigate by eye to the refuge. 

 

The last few days have been very busy around the refuge: the Dômes traverse, Métrier and descending to the Conscrits, Tré la Tête, Lée Blanche. The approaches are in compact snow. Good conditions on the above routes. Everything has been done on foot and there are no skiers around. It's raining today at the Conscrits. 

 

As for the footbridge, it will be installed next week (check date with hut). In any case as there is so much snow around you need the right kit. Not advised for walkers at present.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Last update for this month of May-vember!

 

After our short spell of fine weather on Tuesday, it's been yet another wet week!

 

No major changes in conditions. It's still snowing up there and in the "moyenne montagnes", everything is melting very slowly but the snow cover is still substantial for hiking above 2000m.

 

When we woke up this morning, the ground was white up to 2000m.

 

More than 50cm of light snow has fallen at the Goûter and Cosmiques huts, and 30cm of wind-blown at the Helbronner! Watch out for the risk of avalanches/purges over the next few days!

 

So there are no major changes in the high mountains. The transition between skiing and alpinism is proving difficult! Please refer to the previous update or call La Chamoniarde if the information you are looking for is not below!

 

 

The Conscrits refuge is still open. ‘The Conscrits summer footpath will be “open” on 18 June (work on the footbridge is scheduled for 17 and 18 June). In the meantime, you have to access the refuge via the glacier, a route that has become very wet. As in previous years, you now have to climb up the LEFT BANK and avoid the gorge on the right bank (the former Tré la Grande ice slope) where a fall could be fatal. You need to cross the torrent on the flat bit (there's a snow bridge that you can still cross) at the point where, if you go into the water, you will only get wet (and not drown). The rocky bar on the left bank is equipped and goes smoothly. Very soon, the passage through the bar will be reinforced with a rope and a small temporary footbridge will be installed to cross the torrent (see photo below). Up above, probably no changes.

 

 

The Plan Glacier refuge has been open since yesterday. It's dry up to 2300m above the Chalets de Miage. On the way down, you can ski to 1900m. Above, travel is only possible on skis for the time being. The Mettrier arête was done in excellent conditions last weekend, and the N face of Les Dômes has also been skied (last weekend).

 

 

The Durier refuge will open on 15/06. Quite a few skiers on the N face of Bionnassay in recent weeks (access via the Nid d'Aigle/Tête Rousse: don't forget the portage, skis on at the Nid d'Aigle).

 

 

The Nid d'Aigle refuge will open on 3/06. The Tête Rousse and Goûter huts are open. As a reminder, the TMB and cable car are closed (the Bellevue lift will open on 8/06) = you have to walk! Snow clearing and work in progress on the railway line + a ban on walking introduced by the APHN = access via the Crozat and the Chalets de l'Are for most people, no information on the Rognes. There is a good footpath from the Nid d'Aigle, so snowshoes are not essential. On the other hand, you shouldn't try to open up a variant because as soon as you leave it, you will be wading around.

 

The cable has been reinstalled in the Goûter couloir and is accessible, as are those in the upper part of the face below the refuge. Before the snow, there was a good track that will soon be remade. Beyond that, snowshoes were not necessary, but they could prove useful for retracking the route between the Goûter refuge and Vallot (this section is in very good condition). The Bosses ridge remains technical at the ‘mauvais arete’: it is narrow, there is ice on the Italian side and the passage on the N side is not necessarily ideal. There's an abalakov in place (to be confirmed!!!) and it's a 30m pitch: ‘Mont Blanc is still a climbers mountain’!

 

 

If there is a weather window, Mont Blanc on skis via the Grands Mulets refuge is still in good condition. Some bits of skis on/off between Plan de l'Aiguille and the glacier. The Jonction higher path is changing and opening up, but it's still OK for the moment. The Jonction lower path was retracked on 30/05.

 

The North ridge of the Dôme is snowy, with only a short section of ice on the last step. For the Bosses ridge, see above.

 

The most popular route is: plateaus, Corridor and the Mur de la côte (which is skiable). The ascent via the plateaus remains very exposed to serac falls.

 

The descent via the north face of Mont Blanc was made again this week in fresh snow.

 

 

The Panoramic opened last weekend.

 

For the Trois Monts, we have to solve the equation weather + snowpack stability = not easy lately. But very good conditions when it does!

 

Otherwise no changes (activity on the Lachenal, Triangle, Cosmiques arête)! The approaches (including the crossing of the Vallée Blanche) are being done on foot (they will have to be tracked).

 

There was a big fall of seracs below the Col du Diable in the usual place (between the Pyramide du Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey), so best to keep your distance there.

 

The rock has a hard time drying out between the snow falls, but the S faces will dry out quickly when the high pressure returns.

 

 

The Skyway and the Torino refuge are open. Still lots of skiers in the area. Lots of teams traversing the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrêves. The Tour Ronde is in good condition: the ‘normal route’ is all snow; the N face was climbed on 28/05 in good conditions (rimaye ok, some black ice on the surface in the gully, beware of the risk of avalanche on the upper slope) as was the Gervasutti couloir (rimaye blocked, all snow). The approaches are tracked on foot.

 

 

The Montenvers train will reopen tomorrow, Saturday 1 June, as will the gondola to the Mer de Glace and all the access paths = back to normal!

 

The Couvercle guardian will be back with the first bookings (perhaps tomorrow or Sunday), until then the winter refuge is accessible. Access is not easy at this time of year: the winter access routes (central couloir, Pierre à Béranger) are no longer passable and it's a bit early to take the path from the top of the ladders (snowy couloirs, exposed to avalanches/purges). The best option is to check with the guardian. Above the refuge, it's as white as everywhere else!

 

The Requin will open on 15/06, Leschaux on 11/06, l'Envers on 14/06, date to be announced for the Charpoua!

 

 

No news (= good news) from the Argentière glacier area (refuge opening on 20/06, there will be mountaineering mechanical uplift this summer).

 

Access to the Albert 1er refuge (open) is still via the moraine path. The summer path from the top of the ski lifts is still too snowy and dangerous (there was an accident last weekend, see photo below).

 

 

The classic routes are being done on foot (which can be quite tricky) and on skis: Aiguille du Tour normal route, Couloir de la Table (currently very snowy), Tête Blanche normal route. There's been no recent activity on the Chardonnet (‘very good snow cover, and good conditions to come once the snowpack has settled’).

 

 

For hiking, don't go above 2000m if you want to be safe! Don't forget to call La Chamoniarde to check out the feasibility of your project!

 

Hiking on the Tour du Mont Blanc is off to a very slow start (refuges are opening and the first hikers are warming up). The cols and high altitude sections are very snowy. These are not névés but long stretches of snow, which means:

 

- Paths and markings not visible = risk of getting lost

- Walking for a long time in the snow = more physical or even exhausting stages if you have to (re)track, have good hiking boots + gaiters (snow gets wet!)

- Risk of slipping/falling: carry and know how to use crampons or even a small ice axe (snow is slippery!)

- Take care when crossing streams and torrents so as not to fall through and get swept away.

 

In these conditions, it is only for very experienced, trained and adequately equipped hikers. Most hikers who set off at the moment turn back (remember to do so before it's too late!).

 

 

Finally, here's some other news:

 

- The opening of the Bossons chairlift has been be postponed (repair work)

- Emosson dam road has been open since Thursday

- A static rope has been installed to access the Vipère etc routes (Barberine), as the existing rope was damaged.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.