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The Club produces a regular English translation of the Chamonix conditions report from La Chamoniarde to help climbers without an understanding of French to access up-to-date information on conditions in the valley. An archive of these reports can be seen below: 

 

Report: 5 January 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 5 January 2024.

Happy New Year everyone!

We've had a bit of everything over the Christmas holidays: snow, rain, wind, sun, foehn… There was even more on the menu than at Grandma's at Christmas!
 
 
Snow cover remains fairly thin below 1800m, but substantial at higher altitudes. Watch out for the snow conditions, especially with the wind blowing in just about every direction. In 2024, more than ever, the BERA (avalanche forecast) is your friend!
 
Most of the classic ski touring areas are being visited. It's sketchy at the bottom of the Vallon de Bérard and the Col du Passon on the le Tour side (poor snow cover, likely to improve with the snow fall forecast for this weekend) and you need to be a good skier.
 
The “climbers" version of the Vallée Blanche is also in decent condition: the Aiguille du Midi arête is not yet equipped (therefore crampon skills are essential) and you have to make your own way back up to Montenvers until the new cable car is open.
 
The Brèche Puiseux was climbed last week: lots of snow, plan 2x30m for abseiling, head well to the right to exit the Mont Mallet glacier (the couloirs on the left are not in good condition!)
 
In the Argentière basin, there are lots of people on the cols (Passon, Chardonnet, Tour Noir), often there and back. The Aiguille d'Argentière was skied via the Glacier du Milieu (fairly well filled in glacier, a mixed pitch to get up the narrows and 15m of abseiling on the descent) and via the Y couloir (10m step to cross the rimaye, 40m abseil on descent, spring conditions in the couloir).
 
Conditions for these high-altitude routes are likely to change as temperatures drop and snow and wind arrive!  
 
For fans of snow, ice and mixed terrain, it looks like the season is about to get under way with the cold snap expected later this week. For the moment, only the Déferlante sector on the left bank of Argentière is offering decent conditions (watch out for overcrowding!)
 
Gullies: Chéré couloir on the Tacul was climbed in very dry conditions. Several teams on Petit Viking (complicated rimaye with 40m of M5 on the right, then OK conditions) and Charlet-Ghilini. Mini Blast, Rébuffat-Terray and M6 Solar were also climbed without further information.
 
For our friends the snowshoers and other winter walkers, the valley's signposted routes are all open! More information on the dedicated page on La Chamoniarde.
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 
 
 

Report: 22 December 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 22 December 2023
 
A few bits and pieces of information before the holidays start!

Lifts opening up tomorrow:
  • The Aiguille du Midi
  • The Le Tour ski area (road reopened)
  • Les Houches ski area

The snow cover is good above 1800 m but quite poor below that. It snowed at altitude (above 1700m) last night (around 20cm at 1800 m, more above). The wind has been working hard (moving snow around), so beware of the risk of avalanches (remember the avalanche report is there to be read!).
 
The Aiguille du Midi arête is not equipped.
 
The Montenvers/Mer de glace access regulations were amended today. Access via the lower station of the old gondola (path + stairs) is once again possible until the opening of the new gondola, but is no longer maintained and requires the use of mountaineering equipment. You can also go up by the new “ferrata" route. Otherwise, you'll have to call Father Christmas and his sledge :)
 
There's not much snow in the Bérard valley, so you'll need to be a good skier (see the report in our cahier de course on the website).
 
The cascade season is starting tentatively either on the rive gauche (Déferlante) or at Cogne (not well formed).
 
Good weather is forecast for the start of the holidays, so we look forward to hearing from you!
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 15 December 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 15 December 2023
 
Here's some news before what promises to be a sunny weekend!
 
After the partial opening of Argentière-Lognan and La Flégère, it's the turn of the Domaine du Brévent to open tomorrow, Saturday 16 December. On the other hand, you'll have to wait and see further up the valley (the road to Le Tour village is closed). There is poor snow cover on the Vallorcine pistes and at Les Houches. The Aiguille du Midi (looking very snowy) will open on Saturday 23 December.
 
The Mont Blanc tunnel is open again from this evening! Here's to pizza and hiking in the Aosta Valley! The Monte Bianco Skyway is open, as is the Courmayeur ski area.
 
The Montenvers train is running. 
IMPORTANT INFO: the new gondola lift is not yet open (due to open in January), which means :
- No access to/from the glacier for non-alpinists.
- The old gondola lift, staircases and ladders have been dismantled/closed/prohibited by municipal by-law.
- The only access between the Mer de Glace and Montenvers is the new route (in yellow on the map below). A sort of via ferrata, it requires mountaineering equipment and techniques.
 
 
The marked up hill ski touring tracks are closed for the time being due to lack of snow. La Trapette at Argentière is just about passable (watch out for the Pierre à Ric home run, which is closed for the time being).
 
The best solution is therefore to take the lifts up to find better snow conditions. If you start in the valley (Le Buet, etc.), you will probably be carrying your skis, particularly on the descent. In the Argentière basin, the classics were tracked today in good conditions: Col  du Passon, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière. On the way back, it's best to take the right bank or the centre of the Argentière glacier, as the left bank is "acrobatique".
 
There's also been some activity in the Aiguilles Rouges, but we don't have any more information (Index/Lac Blanc sector). We await your feedback!
 
Beware, there has been a lot of snow in the high mountains (above 2200m) and the north wind picked up today (moving snow around).
 
As you can imagine, there's been no activity in the high mountains recently!
 
As far as snowshoeing is concerned, there isn't enough snow at the bottom of the valley, so the signposted snow shoeing routes can be done with good shoes and poles. As for the high-altitude itineraries, they are being prepared and you can check their opening times in the bulletin.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 1 December 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 1 December 2023

The weather’s still unsettled. The rain/snow limit has been going up and down like a yoyo!
 
There are large quantities of snow in the high mountains, so the glaciers must be very pleased! Reasonable snow cover in the “moyenne montagne". With the rain (and now the snow), there is around twenty centimetres at the bottom of the valley!
 
Lots of avalanches yesterday, because of the rain, and the avalanche risk will remain high for the next few days. So be careful. We're all eager to the start of the season, but you have to tread carefully!
 
 
Skiing
 
The good news is that the Argentière-Lognan ski area will open partially but continuously from Saturday 2 December! Beware of the risk of avalanches and rocks, it's only the start of the season!
 
Remember that the other ski areas are still closed and being prepared, which means that they are not safe and that piste bashers are in action (beware of cables and please respect the work of groomers and pisteurs!). This is particularly true of the Nants piste (Brévent area), where a mechanical digger has gone up to 1500m to carry out repair work following the recent torrential floods (work completed).
 
 
The Montenvers train has also reopened. Please note that the old Mer de Glace gondola lift is closed permanently. Work to finish the new lift is continuing, but it is not yet ready for use. This means that there is no access to the grotto or the glacier for non-climbers. The old stairway (currently being dismantled) and the ladders are closed by decree. Access to the glacier is therefore only possible via the new access. See the map above which shows the "via ferrata" in green. This route requires mountaineering equipment and techniques (anchors in place). We haven't yet had any information on whether it can be used in winter.
 
 
Snowshoeing
 
With the arrival of the snow, snowshoeing is beginning to be possible on the signposted routes at the bottom of the valley:  
(https://www.chamonix.com/activites/randonnees/itineraires-de-randonnees-en-raquettes; sometimes possible without snowshoes with good shoes and poles).
 
In fine weather, the more experienced might consider climbing to the Chalets de Chailloux or Loriaz (itineraries that are neither signposted nor safe).
 
 
Climbing
 
In the high mountains, a few teams have climbed the Rebuffat-Terray goulotte in good conditions during the one window of good weather.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 23 November 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 23 November 2023

Now the sun has come out it’s time for an update. 

The weather has calmed down a bit in the valley! The snow has melted down to around 1700m. It rained quite heavily last weekend.

For walkers venturing into Chamonix, we'd like to remind you that we're between seasons: too much snow at altitude for classic hikes and not enough for snowshoeing. The trails are heavily snow-covered from 1700m (and therefore impassable) and some have been damaged by the heavy rain of the past week. For instance access to the Chapeau buvette. (See photo below).

However, it's still possible to enjoy the sunshine (when it's there) and the beautiful colours on the paths near the valley floor. However, the footpaths are slippery and you need to be properly equipped.

The petit balcon sud between Chamonix and Argentière is still not recommended, nor is the petit balcon nord between Le Tour and Argentière (parts of the trail are eroded). Due to a major landslide, the paths in the tête de la Jorette area (Montagne des Posettes) are prohibited by decree. We'd like to take this opportunity to remind you how much we value your feedback from outings so that we can spread the word!

For those looking to climb a little higher, the Chailloux chalets or Loriaz are still a good options (with snow on the upper slopes).

The return of the sun means that ski tourers can get out their skins at La Flégère. With the rain-snow limit above the Index last Sunday, the surface of the snow cover is often hard and frozen. The road to the village of Le Tour is still closed, and there's no snow down there anyway! The ski areas are still closed (the Grands Montets is due to open on 2 December, snow permitting).

In the high mountains, there's been little or no activity, but there's plenty of snow and the wind has (as usual) been blowing hard (watch out for accumulations). Some of you will no doubt have taken advantage of this weather window to check out the mixed conditions.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 17 November 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 17 November 2023
 
 
After the snow and the flooding, it’s certainly been a strange month!

The heavy rain (rain-snow limit above 3,000m) and the associated melting of the snowpack have had a major impact on the footpaths in the valley, which have been badly damaged. Surveys are underway and we don't have much information yet, so please let us know what you see! Some sections of path have been completely washed away, while others may still be unstable (unstable boulders etc.) This is particularly true of the Petit Balcon Nord (Le Tour-Planet sector) and Sud (Nants-Floria-Caisets sector) and the access to the Chapeau Buvette, which should be avoided.
 
 
At altitude, there is still a lot of snow above 1,600-1,700m.
 
So hiking is complicated at the moment (but come on: it's not really the season any more either)! We know that the Bérard cascade, Loriaz, the Blaitière alpage, the Cerro and the Chailloux alpage don't pose any problems (there are certainly others!).
 
As far as snowshoeing is concerned, it's still a bit early with not enough snow on the possible itineraries.
 
The Flégère gondola has reopened after the bad weather. The snow pack has been soaked up to high altitude. It is still waterlogged and not completely consolidated, but it is gradually drying out. In the "moyenne montagne", it snowed a little last night (between 8 and 15cm depending on the area and altitude). This prevented refreezing at depth but generally improved things. The latest news is that you can skin from around 1,700m.  
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

More Articles ...

  1. Report: 10 November 2023
  2. Report: 2 November 2023
  3. Report: 27 October 2023
  4. Report: 11 October 2023
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