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The Club produces a regular English translation of the Chamonix conditions report from La Chamoniarde to help climbers without an understanding of French to access up-to-date information on conditions in the valley. An archive of these reports can be seen below: 

 

Report: 31 October 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 31 October 2024.

The anticyclone has waited until winter to come back! Even though the days are getting shorter and shorter, it's nice to be able to enjoy this late Indian summer.
 
This is an opportunity to give you some brief information on the eve of the long weekend.
 
 
All high and “moyenne” mountain huts are now closed, with the exception of the Torino hut (closing this Sunday, November 4).
 
As far as lifts are concerned, now is the time to take advantage of the Montenvers train (free all weekend) and the Aiguille du Midi, which will close this Sunday. The Flégère gondola will remain open until November 11.
 
Hiking offers incredible colours and contrasts at the moment. There's no snow below 3,000m, so everything's going well. Bear in mind that all the refuges and most of the ski lifts are closed. For those planning to bivouac, the nights are cool (frost is forecast right down to the valley floor), so pack a good sleeping bag! In general, remember to pack warm clothes (it's hot in the sun, but it cools off quickly!)
 
High mountain activity has picked up! The bad weather of late summer/early autumn has given the mountains a chance to recover. The glaciers are relatively well filled in, but beware of the potentially still fragile snow bridges (ditto for the rimayes). We're still able to get around fairly well on foot. The faces, couloirs and gullies are on the whole well filled, even if it's sometimes unconsolidated snow/sugar and little ice.
 
Around the Aiguille du Midi, the N face of Le Tacul was retracked yesterday (steeper and more technical than usual, especially on the descent, keep right to avoid the ice). Not very attractive for skiing.
 
Midi-Plan looks tracked as far as the Rognon! Excellent conditions on the Cosmiques arête!
 
On the triangle du Tacul the Chéré, Perroux, Infidèle are all being climbed, on the Lachenal, Pellissier and M6 Solar are in good condition. One team found the right window for the Afanassief-Bodin (report in our logbook). Modica-Noury with summit exit also in good conditions (previous attempts had resulted in a difficult rimaye). Pinocchio also climbed, with lots of snow but little protection. No information on the more distant goulottes, but don't hesitate to check them out to avoid overcrowding. In this respect, the Simond shelter looks set to be packed for the weekend.
 
The south face of the Aiguille du Midi and the eperon des Cosmiques (mixed exit!) can be climbed again.
 
Good conditions on the traverse of the Dômes de Miage from the Aiguille de la Bérangère. Ditto on the Bionnassay traverse. The Conscrits footbridge will be dismantled (entirely) in the course of next week.
 
The Mont Blanc normal route via the Aiguille du Goûter is seeing traffic (particularly in alpine/paragliding combo). Snow starts at the Tête Rousse. Good snow conditions for the ascent of the Goûter and for the rest of the route (no information on the passage of the mauvais arête).
 
Moulin "de la caméra” on the Mer de Glace is still dangerous (cracked and threatening ice blade).
 
Teams on the Colton MacIntyre on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses: couic snow (squeaky snow!), little ice in the gullies, inconsistent snow in the mixed exit section. An attempt on Rêve Ephémère was abandoned after the first pitch (inconsistent snow and bad ice). Descent via the couloir on the left bank of the serac. Reminder: Mont Blanc tunnel closed!
 
No news from the Couvercle sector (Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte) or the Argentière basin, but we're keen to hear from you!
 
The Le Tour glacier basin is busy. Access to the Albert 1er refuge is snow free. The Aiguille du Tour normal route is busy, but we have no further information. Several teams on the Migot spur, said to be in good condition (some descent belays hidden under the snow). Watch out for crevasses on the approach and descent below Col Adam Reilly!
 
Don't hesitate to send us your trip reports!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 27 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 27 September 2024.

Summary

We have autumn down here, high up it's already winter. The north faces are well plastered, unfortunately the freezing level has risen. A wind speed of 180 kilometres per hour was recorded on the Aiguille du Midi! The good news is that the snow and wind have filled up the rimayes, the bad news is that it has also camouflaged the crevasses. The story (of this wintery weather) is not finished so we will update you more asap.

Hiking

The ground is now unusually slippery for hiking even in anticyclonic periods. It's recommended to be well equipped for this.

Huts

It's the end of the season for the mountain huts, we wish them a good holiday! In the area the only refuges open from next week are the Torino, Plan de l'Aiguille, Loriaz, Tré la Tête and Les Prés.

Uplift

The Mont Blanc tramway and the panoramic close on Sunday. The Montenvers train, the Midi and the Skyway stay open until the end of October / start of November.

 

Bonne raclette!

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 13 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 13 September 2024.

After autumn we get winter!

This morning, the ground was white down to 1,600m. Yesterday's snowfall of 20cm at the Aiguille du Midi and 40cm at the refuge du Goûter was caused by a strong northerly wind that has been blowing since yesterday (and is expected to continue until the beginning of next week). Beware of the risk of avalanches and precarious snow bridges.

Aiguille du Midi Web Cam, 13 September 2024
 
Hold on for rock climbing in the Mont Blanc massif and the Aiguilles Rouges. With the current temperatures, climbing (in the sun) in the Arve valley, the Aravis or down south could be a good idea!

As far as mixed routes are concerned, it's still too early, even if these snowfalls will improve conditions on some of them (the Cosmiques arête, for example).

As far as snow routes are concerned, some are still possible if the weather conditions are favourable. As a reminder, the commitment at this time of year is greater (ski lifts and refuges closed, shorter days, cold, low numbers of visitors, etc.) and getting out into the high mountains requires a solid experience of the high mountains. Don't aim for weather windows that are too short or unpredictable. 

Mont Blanc via the Goûter: The Goûter refuge closed early due to a technical problem (the winter room is now open). Fresh snow, a northerly wind forecast at 80/100km/h at 4,000m (the wind feels like ice up there): the climb looks serious.

The wintery blast is also slowing down hiking activity (which should improve as soon as the sun returns). For those of you who are keen on snowshoeing, I'm sorry, but you'll just have to wait a bit.

An overview of the status of refuges: 

Massif du Mont Blanc 

- l'Envers des Aiguilles closes on Monday 16/09
- The Argentière, Charpoua, Couvercle, Leschaux, Requin, Grands Mulets, Goûter, Durier and Plan Glacier huts are closed.  

Aiguilles Rouges

- Pierre à Bérard closed (no winter room) 

Remember to bring gas, water and food if you plan to go to an unguarded hut. 
 
Index Web Cam, 13 September 2024

As far as ski lifts are concerned, this is the last weekend for the Brévent ski area (closing on Sunday 15/09). 

The Flégère ski area remains open (closing on 22/09), as do the Montenvers train, the Aiguille du Midi + Panoramique cable cars and the Mont Blanc tramway.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 6 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 6 September 2024.

Our first taste of autumn in the high mountains and the first snow report!

The brief but intense storm on Thursday 5 September deposited 25/30cm of snow on the Aiguille du Midi (it was white and beautiful this morning!). As a result, conditions have improved a little on the arête. The normal route on the Tacul doesnt look very inviting. A large slab has released on Maudit. Some snow on the ledges on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi (see photo below). The traverse of the Vallée Blanche was retracked this morning. Be careful, this snow hides the dryness of some routes and the fragile snow bridges on approaches.

 
The rock is dry around Plan de l'Aiguille!

 
Goûter
 
"Winter is back up here, snow up to the Tête Rousse, and it's freezing. The grand couloir and all the way to the top is fine! Great conditions’.
 

Albert 1er

A little snow above 3,200m. The Arête de la Table is white but the snow will melt quickly. Good conditions on the route. On the other hand, the rimaye on the normal route is very technical and challenging (see photo below). 
 

The Col Supérieur du Tour is dry and sandy. 

Teams on the normal routes of Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche (a few crevasses opening up on the route).


Leschaux

You can climb on the rock routes behind the refuge but its all over for the Grandes Jorasses, which is plastered.
 

Some Early Autumn Logistical Information

Huts: 

As a reminder, the Requin - Argentière - Charpoua refuges are now closed.
The Durier and Plan Glacier huts will close tomorrow evening, Saturday 7 September.
In the "moyenne montagne", the Pierre à Bérard hut has been closed for a week.

Ski lifts: 

The Vallorcine cable car is closed. The Le Tour and Prarion lifts will close on Sunday evening, 8 September.
Tramway du Mont-Blanc: the autumn timetables have been put in place, but there are still special trains for mountaineers with reservations in the refuges (departures at 7.00am - 12.00pm - 3.00pm and returns at 8.12am - 1.12pm - 4.12pm).
Aiguille du Midi: autumn timetable with the first departure at 8.10am and the last descent at 4.30pm.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 31 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 31 August 2024.

A brief update on mountain conditions! 

Emosson, © Pierrot

August is drawing to a close and it's time for some mountain huts to close for the season: 

- The Argentière, Charpoua and Requin huts are now closed. 

- Plan Glacier will close on 7 September. 

 

The Plan Joran gondola closed on 31/08. The Mont Blanc tunnel closes on 2 September at 5pm for 3 months.

 

Activity in the high mountains and on snow routes has been much reduced in recent weeks, with the weather having a lot to do with it. It's time to climb compact rock, or go to the beach. 

 

We've updated our news feed, so you can find the latest reports on conditions here. 

 

We'd like to take this opportunity to thank all those who are involved, in any way, in providing us with information, thank you! 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 23 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 23 August 2024.
 
Albert 1er
 
No changes since the 16/08 update.

 
Argentière
 
No major changes here either, the season for snow routes is over. However, there are some great climbs on 5-star rock to be had! 

 
Leschaux
 
The approach and climbing conditions remain good in all sectors. Petites and Grandes Jorasses are still being climbed. It's starting to get complicated to make water if you choose the bivouac option on the Cassin route. Also good conditions at the Aiguille de Leschaux and for the climbing routes around the refuge.

 
Talèfre basin
 
That's it for snow routes, even for Pointe Isabelle where a large rimaye blocks access. 
 
Activity is now concentrated on the Moine, Nonne and Evêque.
 
The rimaye on the Contamine on the Moine has opened up. You have to climb down inside before getting back on the rock. 

 
Charpoua
 
The Dru is no longer accessible by the glacier. The rest of the routes are fine. The Contamine on the Evêque rimaye has opened up but is still passable. The condition of the fixed ropes has deteriorated. 
 
The refuge is due to close on 1 September, but it remains to be seen whether this date will be brought forward depending on the weather conditions. Don't forget to call the refuge! 

 
Envers des Aiguilles
 
Grépon - Mer de Glace: ok on the Envers Des Aiguilles side. However, it is no longer possible to avoid the ice on the Nantillons glacier, so abseiling on abalakovs is necessary in the upper part. 
 
The other sectors are all accessible!

Nantillons Glacier on 22 August
 
Requin
 
Access to the refuge is still via the left bank initially. At the junction of the Leschaux glacier and the Tacul, go into the middle and then branch off perpendicularly opposite the ladders. Congo Star and Renaudie are still passable. For the latter, you'll need to take the 15 abseils. 
 
The refuge is closing this Sunday (25/08). Then 10 euros/night for the winter room. 

 
Punta Helbronner
 
End of summer activity in the sector!
 
Still a few teams on the Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses traverse. The descent via the normal route is still relatively easy. Two passages require a little attention: under the Whymper rocks to get a foothold on the glacier and then on the Planpincieux glacier under the Reposoir rock (crevasses). A report on the route from 22/08 can be found here.
 
The Rochefort arête is dry (a little ice, unstable rock) which makes it more technical (you have to watch where you put your feet) than at the beginning of the season when conditions are optimal. We'd like to take this opportunity to remind you that the ratings for a route refer to optimum conditions!
 
Dent du Géant still crowded: at the risk of repeating ourselves, the access to the Salle à Manger is dry (which is not ideal) and you absolutely must stay on the right route.
 
The crossing of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves is crowded, beware of the crevasses on the approach before the Col d'Entrêves. For the Marbrées, always opt for the full traverse.
 
No news from the Arête du Diable.
 
There's climbing on the satellites. The rimayes are still going well (Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul, etc.)
 
The traverse of the Vallée Blanche is still going well. Don't hesitate to take a low track and retrace your steps as the snow bridges are changing at the end of the season.

 
Cosmiques
 
Mixed opinions on the 3 Monts: many dubious bridges in the upper part of the Tacul for some, no proplem for others. 
 
As the rimaye on Maudit has grown, it seems that the fixed rope is getting a bit short. There are currently 2 tracks in the lower section: one using the fixed rope and a second pulling right into the steep seracs. 
 
The upper part is still snow. 
 
The traverse to Pointe Lachenal looks like it is still practicable, although you will have to negotiate the rimaye and a section of ice to reach the first Pointe. 

Point Lachenal on 23 August
 
Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter
 
The conditions on this route are typical of the end of the season.
 
The couloir is very dry and you need to cross it at the right time (as a reminder, the best time according to scientific studies is between 6am and 11am, which doesn't mean there aren't rockfalls).
 
The north-facing section of the Bosses Arête is out of the question. You have to go via the Mauvaise Arête (underlying ice, good steps).

 
Mont Blanc via the Royal Traverse
 
Generally good conditions on this traverse: blue ice on the Col des Dômes, good track to the Bionnassay making progress easier, a few crevasses visible at the Piton des Italiens. Be careful if you descend via the Goûter couloir - timing is everything! 

 
Monzino
 
Aiguille Croux: All good!
 
The Punta Innominata can be done there and back via the arête (rather than the descent via the Glacier du Brouillard).
 
That's it for the Ratti-Vitali.

Access to the Eccles is becoming increasingly complicated = not many people.
 
The Brouillard integrale can still be done by bivouacking at the Col Emile Rey to start the tricky pitches when its cool.

 
Miage
 
The Dômes out-and-back route is still passable, but for the traverse there's ice at the Col de la Bérangère. A report on our route notebook for the traverse on 20/08 can be found here.  
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

More Articles ...

  1. Report: 16 August 2024
  2. Report: 9 August 2024
  3. Report: 1 August 2024
  4. Report: 24 July 2024
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