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The Club produces a regular English translation of the Chamonix conditions report from La Chamoniarde to help climbers without an understanding of French to access up-to-date information on conditions in the valley. An archive of these reports can be seen below: 

 

Report: 24 July 2024

This is the weekly summary translated from the original French. Daily updates (in French only) may also be available on the Chamoniarde website.  
 
Summer is here at last: stable weather, little wind and a decent refreeze!
 
It's relatively warm: snow & mixed routes are changing, but the conditions are still good for the end of July in the 21st century! We'll have to keep an eye on the glaciers, rimayes and slopes. At the same time, the rock continues to dry out, particularly above 4,000m!
 
As far as hiking is concerned, almost everything is feasible!
 
 
Le Tour
 
Access to the Albert Prem is now completely dry, with only a tiny, residual snow patch below the hut. 
 
Chardonnet: the gullies are now completely dry. It's the end of the season for the Migot Spur, with a wide open rimaye and very dry above. The Forbes Arête is in good condition. There's just a bit of ice on the "Bosse", but otherwise everything's fine. Conditions are still quite good on the normal route.
 
The Aiguille du Tour is being climbed daily via the Arête de la Table and the normal route: nothing to report.
 
Good conditions on the normal routes of Petite Fourche and Tête Blanche (for information, the north face is no longer being climbed).
 
Aiguilles Dorées traverse: good general conditions but no further details.
 
 
Argentière Glacier
 
As we announced last week, the access to the Argentière hut has been modified by adding 21m of ladders below the old ones to avoid climbing the moraine.
 
This is the end for the Flèche Rousse (very dry at the bottom).
 
You can still descend via the Glacier du Milieu if you get there early.
 
The rimaye on the Pointe des Améthystes is steep and technical, best done with 2 ice axes. The ridge is practically all snow.
 
The rock is nice and dry!
 
 
 
 
Drus
 
The Dru traverse is in good condition and the Contamine (see photo above).
 
‘The Charpoua glacier is still passable, but there are a few tricky sections, including a small jump to cross a crevasse,’ says the guardienne. (See photo below!)
 
 
 
 
Talèfre basin
 
Get to the hut by the true left bank of the Mer de Glace, then crossing to the right bank (just below the Envers ladders): this avoids crossing the river (bediere) in the middle of the glacier several times. It is best to use the ladders that go up to the balcony path (access is quite steep and there is some rope to get up to the ladders).
 
Nice rock climbing on the Moine and the Nonne-Evêque traverse: the rimayes are almost non-existent. 
 
Arête du Moine on the Verte: the rimaye doesnt look good but you can cross it on the RHS and then go back left to find the start of the route. There is still a little snow on the upper part: with good refreezing conditions, the route is feasible. 
 
Arête du Jardin: the rimaye is still passable, but there has been a rockfall. The letterbox no longer exists, it can be climbed with aid, but it's not the same.
 
Whymper Couloir: some teams failed at the start of the week, the rimaye is no longer crossable in ascent but can still be considered on the way down. 
 
No news yet from the Grands-Montets ridge. 
 
Pointe Isabelle: conditions remain good: the route is all snow (only the mixed terrain is a little dry). Just a reminder: don't hang around under the seracs!  
 
 
 
 
Leschaux
 
Access to the refuge via the balcon path is getting better and better (a few residual névés with no difficulties). Flexible ladders have been added at the bottom of the glacier access.
 
The Petites Jorasses and the Aiguille de Leschaux have been climbed with easy glacier access.
 
The granite behind the refuge is in good condition. 
 
The north face of the Grandes Jorasses hasn't been done yet. Looks like mixed conditions from the triangular névé upwards. Something to think about!
 
 
Envers/Requin
 
Almost everything is good!
 
The République/Grepon sector has dried out nicely, but watch out for crowds at the Tour Rouge bivouac.
 
Access to the Ryan ridge (Aiguille du Plan) is no longer possible, as the crevasse that runs along the access cone has opened up and no longer allows access to the wall above.
 
Requin: the glacier de l'Envers is still OK, zigzagging a little. 
 
The ascent and descent of the Vallée Blanche pose no problems. The glacier is still quite well filled in.
 
The Dent du Requin is being done a lot. A new access route has also been equipped to facilitate access to Congo Star when the torrents are too big (check with the refuge).
 
 
Punta Helbronner
 
A few teams on the Jorasses traverse, probably still a lot of snow. The first pitches of Pointe Young are dry, but there's snow as soon as you switch to the north side.
 
No recent news from the other ridges (Hirondelles, Tronchey) even though there must be a lot of people there (thanks in advance for your feedback!)
 
Access to the Salle à Manger is drying out. Best to take off your crampons and take the right-hand side of the couloir. Be careful not to follow the old track that used to pull you left in the snow and which leads you into rotten terrain, but keep to the right along the edge of the spur.
 
The belays on the Dent du Géant have been re-equipped.
 
Tour Ronde: the Gervasuttti couloir may still be possible (to be confirmed). Use the full Freshfield Arête.
 
Quite a few teams on the Kuffner Arête, which is holding up well, and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse, which is drying out, both in good conditions (with refreezing, of course).
 
The Tacul satellites are fine, apart from an unstable zone at the top of the Clocher du Tacul with rockfalls on the routes below.
 
 
Aiguille du Midi
 
Good conditions on the Trois Monts, no ice. Two ice axes may be useful, especially for the descent.
 
The goulottes on the Triangle can be done early in good freeze conditions (Contamine - Grisolle quite good, Chéré: L1 very dry then good).
 
The Cosmiques Arête is drying out.
 
Midi-Plan still okay with a good refreeze (dry rock, no ice, one sandy section but it's short). A few teams on the traverse of the Aiguilles. As a reminder, following a rock fall, the route is no longer passable in the Blaitière - Plan direction on the ascent to the Dent du Caiman.
 
The Vallée Blanche is still relatively easy. Take the lower track between the Col Flambeau and the Pointe Adolphe Rey (large crevasse that's opening up, see photo below).
 
 
 
 
Plan de l'Aiguille
 
This is the end for the Frendo Spur (dry exit).
 
As for the rest, it's all good!
 
The Nantillons glacier is still in good condition, with just a little blue ice.
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets
 
Last week for the hut (closes on 1 August). Guaranteed solitude for those contemplating a wild Mont Blanc! The last diehards have apparently put their skis away (icy below the Petit Plateau, so it's not so easy to ski!)
 
The path across the glacier has wands. There are still a few teams on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter (20m of ice at the top!) The plateaux are also tracked, as are the Corridors (on foot).
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter
 
Conditions are holding up.
 
The Goûter couloir is full of snow. Make sure you get there early (on the way there and on the way back). Then it's dry all the way to the refuge.
 
 
Miage / Bionnassay
 
Great conditions up here!
 
Plan Glacier is still only accessible via the Col de Tricot and the sentier des Contrebandiers. The glacier leading up to Durier goes well, and after that it's generally dry.
 
The Tricot ridge looks dry up to the Pointe Supérieure, after which it's all snow!
 
Latest information on the Bionnassay traverse in our cahier de course.
 
The Durier refuge is full all week!
 
Access to the Conscrits only via the summer path!
 
The Tré-la-Tête glacier is OK, but watch out for the snow bridges, which are bound to change soon.
 
Dômes de Miage traverse in optimum conditions: no ice, good route down to the Col de la Bérangère, the ridge back up to the Bérangère is a good mix of rock and snow that climbs well with crampons. The descent to the refuge is down snow: the knees are very pleased!
 
Good conditions for the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête! Like many routes, don't follow the guidebook. Climb to the right of the serac (which means you have to pass underneath it, but it is not very threatening, see photo below) to get to the aiguille N. A bit of ice on the summit ridge, then good conditions. The descent via the Col des Glaciers is still all snow!
 
It's a little drier on the Mont Tondu side, particularly on the lower ledges (it can be a good idea to keep your crampons on in this sandy-gravel terrain).
 
 
 
 
Mont Blanc via Gonella
 
Aiguille Grise route in good conditions! Good route, the glacier still passes well, exit slope on the ridge and snow ridge.
 
Teams on the Tournette Spur report good conditions. From now on you need to go via the rocky spur as the Y-shaped couloir is dry and not very inviting (rock falls).
 
 
Monzino
 
The via ferrata up to the Borelli bivouac has been re-equipped. One belay is missing and the cables are partly in the snow at the Col Chasseur: crampons and ice axe are needed to cross the névé.
 
The Freney glacier is not easy but can be crossed. The Ratti-Vitale can be climbed.
 
South ridge of Aiguille Noire: névé to get onto the ridge. “Snow on the Pointe Brendel and in the couloir below Pointe Bich."
 
The Peuterey integral has been done. The Eccles couloir is becoming less and less popular. You need a good freeze and an early start for the outing because it's getting very hot.
 
Aiguille Croux and Punta Innominata OK.
 
The Eccles bivouac was overcrowded, but access via the glacier was good. Good conditions on the Innominata. A number of teams failed below the Col Emile Rey to access the Brouillard ridge (snow-laden slope). Teams on the Brouillard integral, to be continued! The Pilier Rouge is being climbed (access from the bottom is not possible, you have to go via Eccles + 2 abseils; pitch 9 is a bit wet). The Brouillard ridge is tracked out all the way to the summit. Quite a lot of snow, but there have been teams on the Freney pillar, but no further information.
 
 
Hiking
 
All the footpaths are now clear of snow, apart from the Col de la Glière, which can still be a problem.
 
The Salenton / Buet sector is still covered in snow, but is not a problem if you have proper boots.
 
On the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is still a little snow around the Val d’Arpette and at the foot of the Brévent ladders.
 
The section of the Petit Balcon Sud between Les Bossons and Merlet has reopened!
 
The tricky passage under the Chalet des Pyramides has been secured with a chain.
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Chamonix Condition Reports Become Daily for Summer 2024

La Chamoniarde, who produce regular condition reports on the Chamonix valley and surrounding areas for climbers, skiers and hikers, have begun to publish daily reports. This change has been instituted in response to the current, highly changeable nature of conditions in the Alps, which require more up-to-date information.

At other times, when the reports are published weekly, the Alpine Club works with La Chamoniarde to produce an English language translation of the reports for English speaking mountaineers. This is published on both La Chamoniarde and Alpine Club websites. We feel this is important as it ensures that the English version of the reports are accurate, taking into account vital, mountain-specific language and geographic understanding that automated translations may miss.

Unfortunately, the Club does not have the capacity to translate a daily conditions report. While we consider the potential options, the reports remain available in French via the La Chamoniarde website. 

If and when the reports return to a weekly schedule (likely at the end of the summer if not before), we will once again offer our regular translations. 

 

 

 

Report: 15 July 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 15 July 2024.
 
At this time of year, conditions in the high mountains are changing particularly rapidly. There is a crucial need for reliable, recent and factual information on which to base your choices when choosing an outing and preparing for it. We're counting on you to give us this information (via our "cahier de course" on the website, by phone or by coming and talking to us at the OHM).
 
PGHM INFO: We advise against going to the Gervasutti pillar (Mont Blanc du Tacul). The route has been severely affected by climate change. The route has become tricky and even dangerous in the mixed sections. Over the last few seasons, an impressive number of climbers, including professionals, have had to be evacuated. Another 5 climbers who got stuck in very delicate terrain yesterday were rescued this morning after being unable to make a retreat.
 
Major rock fall on the N face of the Tour Ronde this morning at around 5am.
 
Dent du Géant abseil line problem on the "bis" bolts: if possible avoid using it until the line has been re-equipped, probably with "scellements" (See photo below)
 
 
Following the rain of the past week, the access path to the Plan glacier hut via Miage and Morraine à l'Ours has been completely cut off and remains impassable for the moment. The torrent burst its banks during the weekend rains, cutting the access path. A hole 2-3 metres deep in the path has been dug by the flow of water over a length of around 5-6 metres. The current is relatively strong and there are few places to cross. The only access is via the Col de Tricot on the Chemin des Contrebandiers, which requires the necessary equipment and skills (steep path). There are still some névés on the traverse, so take care.
 
For the abseils down the Aiguille du Chardonnet (some are 26-27m long) you'll need a 60m rope (or 2*30m) 
 
Brouillard arete: Ascent to Eccles bivi OK via the glacier (but the snow was hard), a descent track made by a team who left for the Brouillard integral and turned back at the Col Emile Rey. Access to the Col Emile Rey OK. Above, it's an unconsolidated snow gully (instead of mixed with IV rock) for several pitches. Then unconsolidated snow on slabs (unprotected) up to Pointe Louis Amédée. The rest seemed to be the same: lots of snow, cornices = evacuation by the rescue team. It's too early. The snow needs to consolidate.
 
Charmoz-Grépon: still a bit of snow on the N-facing sections, making the route a little more difficult. Descent via the Nantillons glacier in fairly good conditions, but watch out for falling rocks.
 
There's still snow on the normal route on the Aiguille de la République/Grépon-Mer de Glace, even though it was climbed over the weekend.
 
Crampons are no longer necessary on the Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Seigne. However, they are still very useful for the descent of the Grand Col Ferret and the Col du Brévent.
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 12 July 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 12 July 2024.


There's not much changing in the high mountains!

A bit of sunshine, but often a SW wind which complicates refreezing conditions for snow routes and glacier approaches. No heatwave, but it's warm in the high mountains. There was a lot of wind and rain last night below 4,000m. The rock has dried out nicely, but it's still too early for some of the high altitude climbs.
 
 
Le Tour/ Trient
 
The Dorées traverse is getting a lot of traffic and is in good conditions despite the bad freeze. The Copt couloir is very unstable and should not be climbed or descended.
 
The Col Blanc has a 50m abseil on the Swiss side.
 
The Col du Tour on the Le Tour side has been equipped with fixed ropes.
 
The rimaye on the normal route of the Aiguille du Tour has partly collapsed. Take care when crossing it, but it's still passable (on the left hand side, below the main summit).
 
The poor refreeze isn't helping matters on the Chardonnet (teams have turned back because of the poor refreeze over the last few days). It's the end for the goulotte Escarra. Things have got worse on the Migot spur (dry/mixed lower ramp), with rockfalls on 09/07 at the bottom due to poor freeze conditions & a route finding error by one team.
 
There is still névé after the junction of the paths coming from Charamillon and the Col de Balme, then snow again 100m below the refuge, but fine for good hikers.
 
 
Argentière glacier
 
Access to the refuge is still via the glacier. Access via the ladders should be fixed next week - we'll keep you posted!
 
Snow routes are OK when it's freezing: glacier du Milieu there and back, Flèche Rousse, col du Tour Noir. The Couturier is no more.
 
The Jardin arete is in good condition but needs to refreeze for the descent. Still too much snow at the top for the Charlet-Straton arete.
 
The time hasnt come for the Tournier spur yet (+ rock falls at the bottom).
 
Otherwise, the rock is dry!
 
 
Charpoua
 
It's pretty much dry to climb up to the refuge via the path and the "Charpoua express" option.
 
The American Direct has been climbed (a little snow on top to make water, otherwise it's dry). The Drus traverse has also been done. Some névés to access the Flammes de Pierre arete and then below the Petit Dru summit: quite a few manoeuvres to remove and put on crampons, which wastes time. The Z is covered in snow. Some of the abseil belays on the S face are still covered in snow - it's "wet"! The Charpoua glacier goes very well.
 
Climbers on the Flammes de Pierre, Contamine (SW ridge) on the Evêque and Sale Athée (Aiguille du Moine).
 
 
Talèfre Basin
 
The balcony paths are being done every day, with a few névés on the way to the Leschaux (bring crampons and ice axe).
 
It's all good for the Moine! The normal route has dried well (a few névés, but crampons are no longer necessary). The rock on the E face (Contamine route, Aureille Feutren) goes well.
 
Generally speaking, the rock is dry!
 
For snow routes, it's the refreeze that's the issue. Generally speaking, the rimayes have opened up and there is often a decent gap. The Whymper Couloir is still a possibility, as it is still well covered in snow. Still no one on the Jardin arete and the Droites traverse. "Traverse of the Courtes in good conditions if it refreezes. Accessible belays on the descent of Chenavier. Enough exposed rock to protect the Aiguille qui Remue traverse. One team made a mistake on the descent (too far to the right) and were taken out by the PGHM, so dont follow their track."
 
Pointe Isabelle still looks good and is doing surprisingly well on the glacier.
 
 
Leschaux
 
Snow routes (Aiguille de l'éboulement and Périades via the Mont Mallet glacier) OK if refreezing.
 
The W face of the Petites Jorasses (Contamine, Anouk) and that of the Aiguille de Leschaux (Boule à facette: "a chunk of snow above the rimaye that will come off in the next few days + wet passages in the lower part because of the névé at the 3rd belay") are generally dry, the access is fine even if you are "up to the knees with a bad refreeze", rimayes OK.
 
On the Grandes Jorasses, the transition between mixed and rock climbing is underway (although it's still a bit early for the Cassin, for example).
 
 
Envers des Aiguilles / Requin
 
The bottom of the access ladders to the Envers refuge has been redone (photo above)! Beware of a few unstable boulders at the foot of the ladders. There is still some snow to access the refuge.
 
The rock is dry except for the Aiguille de Roc / Grépon-Mer de Glace - Aiguille de la République E face sector, which is not recommended at the moment (ice/snow fall) from the ledges/benches when it gets hot. Cross the rimaye on the right (photo below). Easily 10m of fixed ropes missing: thus tricky on the way up, OK with a big abseil on the way down.
 
 
Mixed opinion on access to the Fou: 2 teams did it, one team failed at the rimaye. 
 
The access to the Requin hut has been repaired. The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is still going well, as is the Envers du Plan glacier. The Dent du Requin (Renaudie) is being climbed. On the south-east face of Pierre-Alain, access to Congo Star seems complicated because of a large névé: to be checked.
 
 
Helbronner
 
Few changes.
 
Jetoula is dry but crampons needed for the access couloir.
 
The access to the Salle à Manger is drying out and the unstable terrain is coming out, so be careful when and where you put your feet down. Good conditions on the Rochefort arete (snow ridge, good track, just some ice around the fixed rope, dry rocky section). Lots of people on the Dent du Géant...!
 
Still too much snow to consider the Jorasses traverse with any peace of mind. The normal route was climbed in good conditions (if it refreezes).
 
A good rimaye defends the Gervasutti couloir on the Tour Ronde. On the other side, only the full Freshfield arete is worth considering!
 
Teams on the Kuffner (see "cahier de course" on website, it's better when it's freezing). Stiil snow on the Diable traverse so it's not really on the agenda.
 
The rock is dry and the rimayes go well! The rimaye in the Aiguillettes couloir (Grand Capucin start) is still passable but it can change quickly.
 
 
Aiguille du Midi
 
Still good conditions on the Trois Monts (no ice, rimayes OK).
 
The Midi-Plan goes well (N side traverses in snow, abseil sector OK but avoid going too late), it's better with a good refreeze...
 
Traverse of the Aiguilles: quite a lot of snow with all the advantages (water supply and snow that secures the rocks) and disadvantages that go with it. But you have to adapt (and sometimes put crampons back on) and sometimes go around on the Mer de Glace side. It's better when you can stay on the crest (dry). The Spencer couloir is still filled with snow, so you can down climb it or abseil. Glacier des Nantillons OK (no crevasses, no falling rocks or ice to get the abseils on the spur).
 
 
Plan de l'Aiguille
 
Curtains for the Mallory.
 
Lots of teams on the Frendo Spur. Generally good conditions this week but the conditions are deteriorating rapidly at the top (left exit: an ice traverse then a fractured rock couloir): bring steel crampons, two ice axes and long ice screws.
 
The rock has dried well but crampons are often still necessary!
 
Some activity on the Peigne (still some snow). Quite a bit of snow on the descent via the normal route of the Pélerins, which makes it more technical (the névés probably prevent you from getting to the easiest part): mountain feet recommended! The Peigne-Pélerins-Deux Aigles-Plan traverse is also possible (Davaille-Julien has been done, the rimaye to get onto the glacier is currently tight against the rock).
 
Teams on the Cordier pillar and to Charmoz-Grepon! The Blatière looks dry.
 
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets
 
There are still a few motivated skiers (but better to go up via the Trois Monts). Skis on at the glacier. The corridor route and the N face are still passable, and you can ski down all the way to the Jonction!
 
Most teams are now coming on foot.
 
Wands show the way to the Jonction (from the Plan de l'Aiguille, set off early and allow between 4 and 6 hours depending on your pace to reach the refuge). You can also get there via the historic route and the Gite Balmat.
 
Most teams are going via the plateaux, but the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is still in good condition: a great way to climb Mont Blanc?
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Gouter
 
Ascent to Tête Rousse:
 
The ascent is now only by the summer path, with no more snow except on the Rognes plateau. 
The crossing of the glacier to reach the refuge is tracked.
The Rognes path is suitable for mountaineers.
 
Ascent to the Goûter:
 
Generally dry except for the crossing of the couloir, (in snow, 1m deep gully in the middle), the cable is in place. A few rock falls observed in the afternoon.
Ice/snow just below the old hut.
 
Dôme du goûter:
 
Watch out for a crevasse at the bottom of the Dome, just about covered but waiting for you. 
 
Bosses ridge:
 
The traverse before the wall of the "mauvaise arete" (where the N face track breaks off) is well crevassed.
Ice on the "mauvaise arete", 2 threads at the bottom, 1 at the top (shallow ice), narrow ridge, difficult crossing.
 
 
Plan Glacier / Trè-la-Tête
 
Plan Glacier: "the access path to the Contrebandiers from the Col du Tricot is done with crampons and ice axe for the less experienced, and microspikes for those in trainers", according to Hubert the caretaker. The secondary access, via the Ours moraine, is passable. The footbridge has not yet been installed, but should be within a week. The Mettrier ridge is dry up to 200m below the summit. If it refreezes, it can still be traversed in its entirety. No info on the arete Tricot, looks like a lot of snow. 
 
Access to the Conscrits hut is via the footbridge, and there is still some snow before you reach the hut. The route across the Dômes de Miage is well tracked, as is the route over the Aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête. A few U-turns due to bad freezing conditions.
 
Durier: plenty of people on the Royal traverse (Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc). The Bionnassay is in good condition, narrow as usual and requires attention and a sure footing.
 
 
Gonella / Monzino
 
The Aiguilles Grises /Pape route is good when it's freezing!
 
The Tournette spur can be considered when the weather is good. Plan to climb early to Quintino Sella.
 
The Punta Innominata with descent via the glacier du Brouillard has been done. People are climbing on the Aiguille Croux.
 
Little activity from the  Eccles.
 
Peuterey Integral ("Still some icy snow on the S ridge of the Noire. There's still a lot of snow on the rest of the route, which has its advantages: water, avoids some tricky rock passages, and its disadvantages") and the classic Peuterey ridge (see report on CamptoCamp).
 
 
Brief Notes
 
Still snow on the approach to and descent from the Perrons traverse.
 
Access to the Pointe Percée via the normal route is forbidden until further notice for safety reasons (falling ice and rocks). Descent only via the Sallanches chimneys - combe des verts.
 
Maladière / l'Arche de Noé "At the belay at the end of 7a (belay 7) there is a Kestrel's nest with young inside (2m to the left of the belay). This is a protected species, so please avoid the area at all costs, otherwise the parents will attack you and/or leave the nest and the young will die! This will be the case for at least 4 weeks.
 
 
Hiking
 
The snow line is gradually climbing to around 2500m. 
 
The Jonction from Les Bossons is passable. There is still some snow to climb to the Albert 1er refuge and the Conscrits refuge.
 
The Col du Brévent and Col de Salenton are still snow-covered: mountain feet and appropriate equipment needed. The same goes for Mont Buet.
 
Some snow to reach the Col Cornu from Plan Praz. Lac Cornu is completely covered in snow. However, the Col de la Glière is not recommended (see photos below).
 
 
As far as the Tour du Mont Blanc is concerned, there is still snow on the Col du Bonhomme, but there are good tracks. The variant via the Col des Fours is not recommended. In the Val d'Arpette side, there is a 30-minute walk in the snow on the Champex side and then 2 steep névés to cross on the Trient side: for good, well-equipped hikers only!
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 5 July 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 5 July 2024.

Here's some news in a nutshell. There have been no major changes since our last update on 28 June. A bit of fresh snow at altitude and a very variable night-time refreeze, which directly affects alpine activities. As far as rock climbing is concerned, the rock is drying quickly, then gets wet again. If in doubt, contact us! A weekend of disturbed weather is forecast, so it remains to be seen what the conditions will be like at the start of the week, with fresh snow, refreezing and wind at altitude. 
 
There is still some snow (and snow just below the refuge) on the way to Albert 1er, which is OK for good hikers. Otherwise, no major changes, but conditions in the high mountains will depend on the refreezing. 
 
Argentière Basin
 
Conditions are good if there is a freeze for the following routes: Couloir en Y, Flèche Rousse, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière, Charlet Straton. There are also good conditions on the Glacier du Milieu, but this is only for experienced climbers. If we get some sunshine, rock climbing conditions will be great. To access the hut, get on the glacier from the Point de Vue. You need to be roped up on the glacier.
 
 
Charpoua
 
You'll have to wait for the snow to melt before you can climb the Drus, although it's possible for good climbers who know the route. Teams planned for l'Evêque, Sale Athée and l'Aiguille du Moine. Waiting for them to return. On 04/07 a party climbed Pointe Wenger, dry rock and a good approach.
 
 
Couvercle Hut
 
The snow has gone on the hut path. A lot of activity on the Aiguille du Moine: the névés on the normal route can be avoided but it's better to bring crampons. The S ridge and E face are dry. The Nonne-Evêque traverse is also ok (no snow on the “rasoir”). The Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte can be done if there is a freeze (big runnels to cross, accessible belays). Teams have bailed on the Droites and on the traverse of the Courtes (poor freeze). Lots of cornices on the Jardin ridge.
 
Glacier du Géant

 
Leschaux Refuge
 
Open and guarded again. Conditions as of Thursday 4th on the refuge's Facebook page: 
 
"This morning's freezing conditions were great, so all the snow routes were excellent.
- aiguille de l'Eboulement via the SW couloir ✅️
- Les Périades via the Mallet glacier ✅️
- circuit from the refuge under the Jorasses ✅️
- Petites Jorasses and aiguille de Leschaux: wait 1 or 2 days for the rocks to dry. 
- climbing routes above the refuge ✅️
- Mer de Glace balcon path ✅ but beware, there's still a lot of snow = crampons compulsory!"
 
The ladders are being refurbished today (05/07) for access to the Refuge du Requin and the Envers des Aiguilles. Access will therefore be 5-star. 
 
 
Requin Refuge
 
The climbing is dry and sunny! The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is trouble-free. Access via the Midi Plan was also tracked on 04/07. 
 
There's still snow at the start of the Pierre Alain and the Dent du Requin, but it's not too bad. Rimaye de l'Aiguille du Plan OK.
 
The Ryan was done on 04/07: "good rimaye, still quite a bit of snow in the north facing gullies and accumulations on some terraces. Longer route than usual", said the guardian. 
 
Grand Capucin
 
Torino
 
Kuffner in good condition on 04 and 05/07. Good refreezing thanks to the clear nights. A team on the Arêtes du Diable did everything with crampons. Might be worth waiting a bit. Rochefort tiptop but no one has continued on to the Grandes Jorasses traverse. Two teams to the summit of the Noire de Peuterey, probably via the S ridge. One team to the red pillar of Brouillard. No one on the Innominata ridge. 
 
 
Info From the Grands Mulets Guardian 
 
"Cross the glacier from the old "gare des glaciers" and approach the Jonction with crampons on. The Jonction at the bottom is fine, with markers on the glacier to guide you to the best route. 
Very good snow cover from the Jonction onwards, wuth the possibility of being on skis from 2800m. The North ridge of the Gouter has been tracked (snow). Track on the plateaux. North face skied yesterday (04/07) and should be skied this morning (05/07). Refuge open and manned until the end of the month”.
 
 
Gouter Refuge
 
The couloir is still well filled in with snow. Be careful, however, with the latest "warm spells" and the time of day when you use the couloir. The couloir (including the “bédière”- the runnel dug by flowing water) can be crossed without any particular difficulty. The crevasses of the Dôme are generally well filled in. Overall, the route to Mont Blanc is in good condition. 
 
Lots of people on the “Royal traverse" from the Durier hut. 
 
 
Conscrits
 
Great conditions. Access to the hut is now via the summer path, with a few snow patches, but at this altitude, the snow is melting quickly. If you access via the glacier, you'll have to take off your boots and cross the river, which isn't great! The traverse to the Durier is fine. 
 
Col du Bonhomme
 
As for hiking, the snow persists above 2300/2400m. So you need to be careful about the routes you take. 
 
For Lac Blanc, the access path from the Index chairlift is not recommended. There is a lot of snow on steep terrain. It is therefore preferable to access the refuge and lake from the Flégère gondola, as you won't be walking in the snow on this route. It's all about walking! The snow is just above the refuge.
 
- Tour du Mont Blanc: The snow is melting all along the route, but the 3 main cols and the Col du Brévent are still covered in snow. Crampons and walking poles are still recommended. As far as alternatives are concerned, only the Col du Tricot is recommended. It is still too early to consider the Col des Fours, Pas d'entre deux Sauts and Arpette. 
 
- Tour des Aiguilles Rouges & Tour des Fiz: Crampons are still highly recommended, particularly for the northern slopes.
 
- The Jonction (Gite à Balmat) looks doable, but there are still some névés at the summit. Beware of steep and potentially exposed terrain. 
 
- In the Val Montjoie, there is no more snow at the Col de la Fenêtre, on the way to the Jovet lakes (remember, no bivouacking or swimming in the area in July and August) and on the ridge between the Aiguille Croche and Mont Joly. Crampons and ice axes are still required for getting to the Robert Blanc via l'Enclave and the Grande Ecaille.
 
 
We'd like to thank all the refuges and all the people who contribute in any way to providing us with information. Your feedback is extremely useful to us!
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 28 June 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 28 June 2024.

An update for the end of June! There hasn’t been much change since last week. Conditions up high for snow routes remain tricky (freeze, wind) and weather windows have been few and far between. Today it looks like the mountains are warming up a bit and things may start to change quickly.


Albert 1er 
 
The classics are being done regularly. Several teams have turned back when the freeze has been poor. On the Chardonnet, the Forbes Arête is very snowy which makes it difficult to protect. The Migot Spur is in excellent condition when there’s a freeze. The Escarra has been done (well filled). It’s best to take a 60 meter rope if you are descending the new abseil line as some belays are more than 25m apart. You could think about doing the normal route as the rimaye is well filled. The hut is mostly packed out. 


Argentière

The hut opened last weekend. The Plan Joran lift is open (only for alpinists and rock climbers) 7h40 to 8h20 ; 13h40 to 14h20 and 17h10 to 17h50. Closed on Sunday.
 
When you get to the glacier, traverse diagonally to the right bank heading for the Chardonnet. You need to be roped up as you’re wandering around amongst crevasses. It’s too early for the ladders as these are still under snow. Snow routes including: Col du Tour Noir, Glacier du Milieu, Aiguille du Tour Noir, Pointe Supérieure des Améthystes and Arête du Jardin are in good condition if there’s a good freeze. The Flèche Rousse has been tracked (2 axes best). If there has been a day of good weather to dry the rock, you can certainly climb on the lovely red granite up here.


Leschaux
 
The Refuge is still shut following last week's rock fall. It may be possible to open next week. The winter room remains open. The path to the hut is snowy but there’s a good track. Well equipped and experienced walkers could consider it. The last few periods of warm and good weather (there weren’t many!) brought an end to the mixed season on the Grandes Jorasses. We’re heading into the rock climbing season but we may need to wait for a few days of good weather to climb on the Petites Jorasses. The routes around the huts are doable. The Mont Mallet glacier is tracked. No track on the Aiguille de l’Eboulement but it looks OK.
 
 
Couvercle
 
The snow is melting on the access paths to the Charpoua and the Couvercle but you need to stay alert. There are still some snow patches and some slabs are wet. There are also snow patches on the path from the Couvercle to the Leschaux  The path onto the glacier is delicate.
 
Conditions on the Whymper are also very dependent on the freeze. Feedback from recent teams was that the rimaye can be crossed on the left-hand side, the secondary couloir has hard snow with a more technical icy bit at the top, then unconsolidated snow for the traverse into the main colour. The rest is okay as well as the summit ridge.
 
The Col Armand Charlet has lots of snow making it more technical. Nobody on the Arête/Aiguille du Jardin or the Androsace as there is still too much snow.
 
The normal route on the Droite has been tracked as well as the Courtes there and back. The Pointe Isabelle and the Col des Cristaux are fine.
 
No rock climbing activity as there is too much snow. There is still a lot of snow on the normal route on the Moine but the South ridge and the Contamine have dried out. 
 
Poor freeze has also been an issue up here. On the night of 26/27 June teams heading for the Whymper were sinking in up to their knees.
 
 
Charpoua
 
One team on the Contamine on the Drus without any further information, particularly about the glacier route. There was also an attempt at the Directe Américaine but it stalled because there was too much snow above the “bloc coincé”.  The window for Sale Athée seems to be approaching.
 
 
Envers des Aiguilles

There's climbing practically everywhere. There's still a bit of snow on some of the routes on Aiguille de Roc and Très-la-Porte.
 
A party has climbed the Grépon-Mer de Glace but it's too early. The rimaye passes tiptop but after that theres a lot of snow and water, snow mushrooms on the top: they did it all in big boots.
 
Descent via the Nantillons glacier in soft snow, lots of purges. Abseil belays were visible , but a bit of a “canyoning" atmosphere.
 
Teams on the Aiguille du Fou (Voie Américaine and Ailes du Désir).
 
 
Requin Sector
 
Access to the refuge from Montenvers is on the left bank of the glacier.
 
The ascent/descent of the Vallée Blanche is tracked and goes well even if it is often soft...
 
Glacier de l'Envers du Plan (Midi-Plan descent) tracked.
 
Teams on  Congo Star (snowy access).
 
 
Torino
 
Still lots of people (perhaps too many people) on the classics. Nobody on the Jorasses traverse Travis as there is too much snow and lots of cornices. The Rochefort is ok when there’s a freeze. Access to the salle a manger is still on snow. On the Tour Ronde the north face and the Gervusatti are still ok. You need to descend (and if necessary climb) by the Freshfield Arête. The Kuffner Arête is being done and it’s good when there’s a freeze. Watch out for overcrowding.
 
One team left this morning for the Diable traverse but there's surely still a lot of snow. You can climb on the Tacul satellites: Grand Capucin (voie des Suisses/O Sole Mio OK by the direct start or the couloir); Pointe Adolphe Rey; Pyramide du Tacul.
 
 
Aiguille du Midi
 
There's still quite a bit of snow at the top of the S face of the Aiguille du Midi, but it's climbable! It's dry on the S face of the Pointes Lachenal.
 
The Trois Monts route is still in very good condition (the rimayes on the Maudit are fine, the Col du Mont Maudit is in snow: be careful on the descent as there is no protection).
 
Arête Midi-Plan, goulotte du Triangle du Tacul OK if refreezing. One party attempted the Bodin-Afanasieff but turned back due to lack of refreeze.
 
 
Plan de l'Aiguille
 
The rock is drying out nicely.
 
There's still snow on the Peigne normal route, which makes it a bit more complicated. The window of opportunity is there for the Frendo Spur. On the other hand, the Mallory-Porter is nearing the end.
 
It's still too early for Charmoz-Grepon, the NW ridge of Blaitière and the Aiguilles de Chamonix traverse, but today it's drying out visibly.
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets
 
You need to carry skis as far as the glacier. The Jonction can be crossed low down (one bridge to watch out for). It’s tracked on foot and skis, as is the north ridge of the Dôme du Goûter.
 
The north face and plateaux are still in good condition for skiing, provided you aim for the right time (a serac fall on the north face at the classic spot probably messed up the exit from the face)...
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter
 
Now mountaineers (only) can take advantage of the trains to the Nid d'Aigle (trains at 7am, 12pm and 4pm, booking and presentation of a reservation in one of the refuges required).
 
Good conditions for the moment. On the Bosses ridge, most teams take the path (steep but easy) on the north face to get around the “mauvaise arete".
 
 
Plan Glacier / Durier
 
Access from the Miage refuge is possible with dry feet up to the junction of the two paths. There is still snow on the path from the Col du Tricot.
 
Things are calming down in the area. Bad refreeze, hot weather: the snow is melting and the crevasses are opening up. 
 
However, in the words of the guardian, “The Mettrier remains beautiful". The route is still passable. It may be preferable to take the Lenoir option. 
 
The access to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier is in snow, better with a good refreeze. 
 
Good conditions overall on the busy Aiguille de Bionnassay route.
 
 
Conscrits
 
Access via the glacier is no longer possible. The snow is melting fast on the path, but beware of snow bridges over the torrents, which are high and hollowed out by the high flows (due to the recent heavy rainfall + melting).
 
With a good freeze, all the routes in the area are in good condition - we can't say better than that.
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Aiguilles Grises
 
The general conditions are still good, regardless of the quality of the freeze. However, we need to be cautious about the crevasses on the Dôme glacier.
 
A team climbed the Tournette Spur: access OK to Quintino Sella if refreezing, but plan to be early. Rimaye OK but the upper part not so easy due to the quality of the snow.
 
 
Monzino
 
Aiguille Croux: plan to use crampons and ice axe for access: Cheney route (on descent, we put crampons back on for the median névé of the normal route but the abseil belays are clear); routes on the SE face (Ottoz, Euroteam, Jean- Marie etc) with descent via the Euroteam abseil belays.
 
A team is due to head for the Eccles tomorrow, to be continued (but from the looks of things all the routes are well loaded with snow and cornices above).
 
 
Tour du Mont Blanc
 
Few changes. No problem for well-equipped hikers (good shoes, poles, small crampons in the bag). Beware of a torrent crossing at the Col de la Seigne. The Tricot option is feasible, but not the others (Col des Fours, Pas d'entre deux Sauts, Val d'Arpette closed by the municipality of Orsières).
 
 
Tour des Aiguilles Rouges
 
This activity is reserved for experienced hikers with good crampons! The Cols du Brévent and de Salenton require caution and a mountain footing.
 
 
Hiking in the Chamonix Valley
 
Lots of snow on the grand balcon paths.
 
Lac Blanc (still snow-covered!): a 20-minute walk in the snow from La Flégère (OK with poles and good shoes). Crampons are useful from the Col des Montets/Trè-le-Champs and the Lacs des Chéserys. Still not recommended from the Index; nor is the Planpraz-col Cornu - col de la Glière - Index section.
 
It's also too snowy for hikers on the Col de la Terrasse, Albert 1er and Jonction sections.
 
 
Chamonix-Zermatt by footpath
 
Because of the snow, it's still too early to consider this trek (more alpine than the TMB, with several passes approaching 3000m). Most hikers are cancelling for the time being.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

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