At this time of year, conditions in the high mountains are changing particularly rapidly. There is a crucial need for reliable, recent and factual information on which to base your choices when choosing an outing and preparing for it. We're counting on you to give us this information (via our "cahier de course" on the website, by phone or by coming and talking to us at the OHM).

 

PGHM INFO: We advise against going to the Gervasutti pillar (Mont Blanc du Tacul). The route has been severely affected by climate change. The route has become tricky and even dangerous in the mixed sections. Over the last few seasons, an impressive number of climbers, including professionals, have had to be evacuated. Another 5 climbers who got stuck in very delicate terrain yesterday were rescued this morning after being unable to make a retreat.

 

Major rock fall on the N face of the Tour Ronde this morning at around 5am.

 

Dent du Géant abseil line problem on the "bis" bolts: if possible avoid using it until the line has been re-equipped, probably with "scellements" (See photo below)

 

 

Following the rain of the past week, the access path to the Plan glacier hut via Miage and Morraine à l'Ours has been completely cut off and remains impassable for the moment. The torrent burst its banks during the weekend rains, cutting the access path. A hole 2-3 metres deep in the path has been dug by the flow of water over a length of around 5-6 metres. The current is relatively strong and there are few places to cross. The only access is via the Col de Tricot on the Chemin des Contrebandiers, which requires the necessary equipment and skills (steep path). There are still some névés on the traverse, so take care.

 

For the abseils down the Aiguille du Chardonnet (some are 26-27m long) you'll need a 60m rope (or 2*30m) 

 

Brouillard arete: Ascent to Eccles bivi OK via the glacier (but the snow was hard), a descent track made by a team who left for the Brouillard integral and turned back at the Col Emile Rey. Access to the Col Emile Rey OK. Above, it's an unconsolidated snow gully (instead of mixed with IV rock) for several pitches. Then unconsolidated snow on slabs (unprotected) up to Pointe Louis Amédée. The rest seemed to be the same: lots of snow, cornices = evacuation by the rescue team. It's too early. The snow needs to consolidate.

 

Charmoz-Grépon: still a bit of snow on the N-facing sections, making the route a little more difficult. Descent via the Nantillons glacier in fairly good conditions, but watch out for falling rocks.

 

There's still snow on the normal route on the Aiguille de la République/Grépon-Mer de Glace, even though it was climbed over the weekend.

 

Crampons are no longer necessary on the Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Seigne. However, they are still very useful for the descent of the Grand Col Ferret and the Col du Brévent.

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.