Over the last 2 weeks, we've seen a marked change in conditions in the high mountains, which is hardly surprising for August 9 in the 21st century. The opportunities for snow routes are shrinking, giving way to rock climbing. The zero isotherm for the next few days is around 5,000m, which isn't great for refreezing conditions. 

Its much better to go climbing on solid rock, which avoids worrying about refreezing and permafrost melt.

We continue to post daily on our news feed, so be sure to check it out here. 

It's now looking complicated to get back onto the glacier from the "new" Chardonnet abseil line. See news feed.

A detailed report on the Jardin arête in our route notebook. 

 

Around the Couvercle hut, activity is now concentrated on the Aiguille du Moine, where the rimaye is OK to cross. The high isotherm of recent weeks seems to have put an end to snow routes, with the exception of Pointe Isabelle which, according to Pinou the guardian, is still in good condition. Less activity also on the Moine ridge.

In the words of the hut guardian: "We've got superb conditions, the glaciers are great for accessing all the routes around the hut. 

Grandes Jorasses: Walker spur, (Cassin) ✅

Plenty of ice in the red chimney: 2 axes and ice screws recommended. 
Aiguille de Leschaux ✅
- Petites Jorasses ✅

- climbing routes above the refuge ✅
- Balcony path ✅
no more névés - refuge ✅✅✅

 

Photos available on the refuge's Facebook page. 

 

There's no snow on the American direct to be able to make water. See our news feed for more details on the artificial pitch. Several rock falls have been observed in recent weeks on the west face. A rock fall this morning (09/08), next to the normal route on the Petit Dru. 

From the refuge, the glacier is still ok to reach the foot of the Contamine and for the Drus traverse. Let's see how things develop. There is still some snow to access Sale Athée, so crampons are still needed. 

There's climbing everywhere. Opinions differ on the crossing of the rimaye Grépon Mer de Glace / voie normale de la République: some people thought it was fine, others not so much. On the other hand, conditions on the Nantillons glacier have deteriorated. Ice in some places, falling rocks in others. Efficiency and timing are vital. 

 

Lots of people on the Grand Capucin and its satellites. We still advise against climbing the Clocher and the Trident, as there are several signs of instability. Beware of the rimayes/rotures to gain a foothold on the rock. The Grand Cap rimaye is difficult to climb and there is a risk of falling rocks. For the left-hand routes, it is best to access via the "Francesco" terrace. 

There are also many teams on the Grandes Jorasses traverse, in both directions! Watch out for overcrowding on these routes. 

A fixed rope has been installed to cross the lower rimaye of Mont Maudit. The ice is starting to appear on the mur de la Cote. 

The Cosmiques Arête is now (too?) dry. 

 

The couloir is now dry, with few rockfalls so far. Between the Gouter refuge and the summit, it's still all snow. 

Durier 

Still good conditions on the Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc traverse. No ice on the Miage and the end of the ridge is mainly dry. Bionnassay, also in good conditions, narrow as usual but a good track makes it a bit easier. 

 

South face of Mont Blanc 

Almost no snow on the S ridge of the Noire. 

There hasn't been much recent information between the Grand Pilier d'Angle and the Brouillard ridge. The sun and the temperatures must have done their job there too. 

Rockfalls were observed near the Innominata, and access to the Eccles seems to have deteriorated.  


On the hiking front, the fun continues, with the final points to watch out for being the Col de la Glière, Mont Buet and Col de Salenton, where the snow persists. 

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.