News

John Cleare

 

The Club is deeply saddened to announce the death on 6 October of John Cleare, a previous Vice-President.  John was an Alpine Club member for over 60 years and his contributions to the club are legendary.  A Memorial event at Charlotte Road is being planned and details will be announced in due course.
For more information please contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. 

Report: 27 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 27 September 2024.

Summary

We have autumn down here, high up it's already winter. The north faces are well plastered, unfortunately the freezing level has risen. A wind speed of 180 kilometres per hour was recorded on the Aiguille du Midi! The good news is that the snow and wind have filled up the rimayes, the bad news is that it has also camouflaged the crevasses. The story (of this wintery weather) is not finished so we will update you more asap.

Hiking

The ground is now unusually slippery for hiking even in anticyclonic periods. It's recommended to be well equipped for this.

Huts

It's the end of the season for the mountain huts, we wish them a good holiday! In the area the only refuges open from next week are the Torino, Plan de l'Aiguille, Loriaz, Tré la Tête and Les Prés.

Uplift

The Mont Blanc tramway and the panoramic close on Sunday. The Montenvers train, the Midi and the Skyway stay open until the end of October / start of November.

 

Bonne raclette!

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Banff Mountain Book Competition Category Finalists Announced

Banff Mountain Book Competition Category Finalists Announced

The Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival have released the list of category finalists for the 2024 Mountain Book Competition. Among the shortlisted titles are three books by Alpine Club members.

Graham Zimmerman's A Fine Line is shortlisted for the Jon Whyte Award for non-fiction mountain literature, while Heather Dawe's Dreams of Lost Buttresses and Ben Tibbetts' The 4000m Peaks of the Alps, Volume 1: West  have been nominated in the Mountain Fiction & Poetry and Guidebook categories, respectively. 

Reviews of A Fine Line and Dreams of Lost Buttresses feature in this year's Alpine Journal.

 

 

 

2024 AGM & Annual Dinner

2024 AGM & Annual Dinner


Date: Saturday 23 November 2024

By popular request of members, we are returning to The Castle Green Hotel, Kendal, LA9 6RG. The hotel is 2.75 miles from Oxenholme station.

This year's event coincides with the 2024 Kendal Mountain Festival, allowing those members with an interest to take in a talk or film screening during the weekend.


The order of events is:

15:00  AGM in the Kendal Suite.

16:30 - 17:30  Presentations on the impending release of Denise Evans' autobiography and recent AC expeditions.

18:30  Cash bar open in the Function Suite (where the dinner is taking place. Cumbria's finest real ales will be available.

19:30  Dinner. Our principal guest is Tom Livingstone.

 

Livingstone and climbing partner Aleš Česen on the summit of Gasherbrum III following the first ascent of the west ridge 

 

Tickets for the three course dinner are £45.00 per person, reduced to £30.00 for those under the age of 40 on the date of the dinner.

 

Members can now buy dinner tickets for themselves and their guests, paying in either of the following ways:

  • Online by logging into the AC website, navigating to the 'Events' tab and selecting 'AGM & Dinner Booking' from the drop-down menu.

  • By cheque, made payable to 'Alpine Club', and sent in the post to the Honorary Secretary at 55 Charlotte Road, London EC2A 3QF

 

When applying for tickets, please specify any dietary requirements.

Tickets will be posted to members in the two weeks before the event. 

 

 

Favourable B&B room rates have been arranged with the hotel as follows: £155 for a double/twin room for one night, and £260 for two nights. £125 for a single room for one night, £220 for two nights. For a third or more night, the rates are £120 per night for a double/twin room and £110 for a single. These discounted rates will be held until the end of October, so you are encouraged to book soon. Call 01539 734000 and quote 'Alpine Club'.

 

We look forward to seeing you there.

 

Report: 13 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 13 September 2024.

After autumn we get winter!

This morning, the ground was white down to 1,600m. Yesterday's snowfall of 20cm at the Aiguille du Midi and 40cm at the refuge du Goûter was caused by a strong northerly wind that has been blowing since yesterday (and is expected to continue until the beginning of next week). Beware of the risk of avalanches and precarious snow bridges.

Aiguille du Midi Web Cam, 13 September 2024
 
Hold on for rock climbing in the Mont Blanc massif and the Aiguilles Rouges. With the current temperatures, climbing (in the sun) in the Arve valley, the Aravis or down south could be a good idea!

As far as mixed routes are concerned, it's still too early, even if these snowfalls will improve conditions on some of them (the Cosmiques arête, for example).

As far as snow routes are concerned, some are still possible if the weather conditions are favourable. As a reminder, the commitment at this time of year is greater (ski lifts and refuges closed, shorter days, cold, low numbers of visitors, etc.) and getting out into the high mountains requires a solid experience of the high mountains. Don't aim for weather windows that are too short or unpredictable. 

Mont Blanc via the Goûter: The Goûter refuge closed early due to a technical problem (the winter room is now open). Fresh snow, a northerly wind forecast at 80/100km/h at 4,000m (the wind feels like ice up there): the climb looks serious.

The wintery blast is also slowing down hiking activity (which should improve as soon as the sun returns). For those of you who are keen on snowshoeing, I'm sorry, but you'll just have to wait a bit.

An overview of the status of refuges: 

Massif du Mont Blanc 

- l'Envers des Aiguilles closes on Monday 16/09
- The Argentière, Charpoua, Couvercle, Leschaux, Requin, Grands Mulets, Goûter, Durier and Plan Glacier huts are closed.  

Aiguilles Rouges

- Pierre à Bérard closed (no winter room) 

Remember to bring gas, water and food if you plan to go to an unguarded hut. 
 
Index Web Cam, 13 September 2024

As far as ski lifts are concerned, this is the last weekend for the Brévent ski area (closing on Sunday 15/09). 

The Flégère ski area remains open (closing on 22/09), as do the Montenvers train, the Aiguille du Midi + Panoramique cable cars and the Mont Blanc tramway.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

2024 Boardman Tasker Award Shortlist Announced

2024 Boardman Tasker Award Shortlist Announced

The judges of the 2024 Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature have announced a shortlist of six books. Among the nominees is AC member Graham Zimmerman for his book A Fine Line.

The other shortlisted titles are Alpine Rising by Bernadette McDonald, Behind Everest by Kate Nicholson, Mountains of Fire by Clive Oppenheimer, Headstrap by Nandini Purandare and Deepa Balsavar and Royal Robbins: The American Climber by David Smart. Both McDonald and Smart are previous winners of the Boardman Tasker for their biographies of Voytek Kurtyka and Emilio Comici respectively.

The winner will be announced at a special event at this year's Kendal Mountain Festival

 

 

 

Report: 6 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 6 September 2024.

Our first taste of autumn in the high mountains and the first snow report!

The brief but intense storm on Thursday 5 September deposited 25/30cm of snow on the Aiguille du Midi (it was white and beautiful this morning!). As a result, conditions have improved a little on the arête. The normal route on the Tacul doesnt look very inviting. A large slab has released on Maudit. Some snow on the ledges on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi (see photo below). The traverse of the Vallée Blanche was retracked this morning. Be careful, this snow hides the dryness of some routes and the fragile snow bridges on approaches.

 
The rock is dry around Plan de l'Aiguille!

 
Goûter
 
"Winter is back up here, snow up to the Tête Rousse, and it's freezing. The grand couloir and all the way to the top is fine! Great conditions’.
 

Albert 1er

A little snow above 3,200m. The Arête de la Table is white but the snow will melt quickly. Good conditions on the route. On the other hand, the rimaye on the normal route is very technical and challenging (see photo below). 
 

The Col Supérieur du Tour is dry and sandy. 

Teams on the normal routes of Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche (a few crevasses opening up on the route).


Leschaux

You can climb on the rock routes behind the refuge but its all over for the Grandes Jorasses, which is plastered.
 

Some Early Autumn Logistical Information

Huts

As a reminder, the Requin - Argentière - Charpoua refuges are now closed.
The Durier and Plan Glacier huts will close tomorrow evening, Saturday 7 September.
In the "moyenne montagne", the Pierre à Bérard hut has been closed for a week.

Ski lifts

The Vallorcine cable car is closed. The Le Tour and Prarion lifts will close on Sunday evening, 8 September.
Tramway du Mont-Blanc: the autumn timetables have been put in place, but there are still special trains for mountaineers with reservations in the refuges (departures at 7.00am - 12.00pm - 3.00pm and returns at 8.12am - 1.12pm - 4.12pm).
Aiguille du Midi: autumn timetable with the first departure at 8.10am and the last descent at 4.30pm.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 31 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 31 August 2024.

A brief update on mountain conditions! 

Emosson, © Pierrot

August is drawing to a close and it's time for some mountain huts to close for the season: 

- The Argentière, Charpoua and Requin huts are now closed. 

- Plan Glacier will close on 7 September. 

 

The Plan Joran gondola closed on 31/08. The Mont Blanc tunnel closes on 2 September at 5pm for 3 months.

 

Activity in the high mountains and on snow routes has been much reduced in recent weeks, with the weather having a lot to do with it. It's time to climb compact rock, or go to the beach. 

 

We've updated our news feed, so you can find the latest reports on conditions here

 

We'd like to take this opportunity to thank all those who are involved, in any way, in providing us with information, thank you! 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 23 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 23 August 2024.
 
Albert 1er
 
No changes since the 16/08 update.

 
Argentière
 
No major changes here either, the season for snow routes is over. However, there are some great climbs on 5-star rock to be had! 

 
Leschaux
 
The approach and climbing conditions remain good in all sectors. Petites and Grandes Jorasses are still being climbed. It's starting to get complicated to make water if you choose the bivouac option on the Cassin route. Also good conditions at the Aiguille de Leschaux and for the climbing routes around the refuge.

 
Talèfre basin
 
That's it for snow routes, even for Pointe Isabelle where a large rimaye blocks access. 
 
Activity is now concentrated on the Moine, Nonne and Evêque.
 
The rimaye on the Contamine on the Moine has opened up. You have to climb down inside before getting back on the rock. 

 
Charpoua
 
The Dru is no longer accessible by the glacier. The rest of the routes are fine. The Contamine on the Evêque rimaye has opened up but is still passable. The condition of the fixed ropes has deteriorated. 
 
The refuge is due to close on 1 September, but it remains to be seen whether this date will be brought forward depending on the weather conditions. Don't forget to call the refuge! 

 
Envers des Aiguilles
 
Grépon - Mer de Glace: ok on the Envers Des Aiguilles side. However, it is no longer possible to avoid the ice on the Nantillons glacier, so abseiling on abalakovs is necessary in the upper part. 
 
The other sectors are all accessible!

Nantillons Glacier on 22 August
 
Requin
 
Access to the refuge is still via the left bank initially. At the junction of the Leschaux glacier and the Tacul, go into the middle and then branch off perpendicularly opposite the ladders. Congo Star and Renaudie are still passable. For the latter, you'll need to take the 15 abseils. 
 
The refuge is closing this Sunday (25/08). Then 10 euros/night for the winter room. 

 
Punta Helbronner
 
End of summer activity in the sector!
 
Still a few teams on the Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses traverse. The descent via the normal route is still relatively easy. Two passages require a little attention: under the Whymper rocks to get a foothold on the glacier and then on the Planpincieux glacier under the Reposoir rock (crevasses). A report on the route from 22/08 can be found here.
 
The Rochefort arête is dry (a little ice, unstable rock) which makes it more technical (you have to watch where you put your feet) than at the beginning of the season when conditions are optimal. We'd like to take this opportunity to remind you that the ratings for a route refer to optimum conditions!
 
Dent du Géant still crowded: at the risk of repeating ourselves, the access to the Salle à Manger is dry (which is not ideal) and you absolutely must stay on the right route.
 
The crossing of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves is crowded, beware of the crevasses on the approach before the Col d'Entrêves. For the Marbrées, always opt for the full traverse.
 
No news from the Arête du Diable.
 
There's climbing on the satellites. The rimayes are still going well (Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul, etc.)
 
The traverse of the Vallée Blanche is still going well. Don't hesitate to take a low track and retrace your steps as the snow bridges are changing at the end of the season.

 
Cosmiques
 
Mixed opinions on the 3 Monts: many dubious bridges in the upper part of the Tacul for some, no proplem for others. 
 
As the rimaye on Maudit has grown, it seems that the fixed rope is getting a bit short. There are currently 2 tracks in the lower section: one using the fixed rope and a second pulling right into the steep seracs. 
 
The upper part is still snow. 
 
The traverse to Pointe Lachenal looks like it is still practicable, although you will have to negotiate the rimaye and a section of ice to reach the first Pointe. 

Point Lachenal on 23 August
 
Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter
 
The conditions on this route are typical of the end of the season.
 
The couloir is very dry and you need to cross it at the right time (as a reminder, the best time according to scientific studies is between 6am and 11am, which doesn't mean there aren't rockfalls).
 
The north-facing section of the Bosses Arête is out of the question. You have to go via the Mauvaise Arête (underlying ice, good steps).

 
Mont Blanc via the Royal Traverse
 
Generally good conditions on this traverse: blue ice on the Col des Dômes, good track to the Bionnassay making progress easier, a few crevasses visible at the Piton des Italiens. Be careful if you descend via the Goûter couloir - timing is everything! 

 
Monzino
 
Aiguille Croux: All good!
 
The Punta Innominata can be done there and back via the arête (rather than the descent via the Glacier du Brouillard).
 
That's it for the Ratti-Vitali.

Access to the Eccles is becoming increasingly complicated = not many people.
 
The Brouillard integrale can still be done by bivouacking at the Col Emile Rey to start the tricky pitches when its cool.

 
Miage
 
The Dômes out-and-back route is still passable, but for the traverse there's ice at the Col de la Bérangère. A report on our route notebook for the traverse on 20/08 can be found here.  
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 16 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 16 August 2024.
 
Gosh it's already the middle of August! While we wait for cooler temperatures to return, it's the end of the line for technical mixed routes....Solid rock climbing is good too :)

Glacier du Tour

Petite Fourche, Tête Blanche and Aiguille du Tour are still being climbed. The rimaye of the latter is opening up but is easy to cross. The col Supérieur du Tour is also starting to dry out. That's it for the Aiguille du Chardonnet. The "roture" (gap between snow and rock) below the abseil descent is very difficult to cross.
 

Argentière

All the snow routes are finished! All the rock routes can be done without any problems. The Glacier du Milieu has become very tricky and you have to be careful with falling rocks. For the descent of the Jardin arête, it's better to take ‘La part des anges’ (60m technical abseil). This route is no longer recommended. Access to the refuge is via the ladders.


Talèfre

The Aiguille du Moine (including the normal route) remains in good condition. The E face is more complicated - Contamine-Labrunie and Aureille-Feutren routes - because of the rimayes. The Nonne traverse is still climbed, even though the rimaye is opening up more and more. The conditions change every day! Pointe Isabelle is still in good condition, but has been climbed very little. It's over for the big technical routes (Verte, Droites, Courtes), and even dangerous! (very open rimaye, rock falls etc...)


Leschaux

Access for hikers is very good. The rock routes behind the refuge are also fine. The Cassin route is still in good condition. Come up here, the guardian is waiting for you!
 

Charpoua

The glacier on the way to the Drus is still crossable (as high up as possible). Some rockfall on the Drus traverse. That's it for the W face. There are still teams on Contamine on the Evêque, which looks to be in condition. Ditto for Sale Athée, which still has snow in the access couloir.


Requin

Access to the refuge is from the left bank - 2 crevasses to cross - The Jonction to Torino has deteriorated badly! Access to the Dent du Requin is very good: Chapeau à Cornes arête complicated, lots of teams on the Renaudie (for the record, you can no longer branch off to the other side of the glacier, you have to take the 15 abseils). Lots of people on Congo Star.


Envers des Aiguilles

The Grépon/République rimaye is still OK (by the rocks on the right) as is the Bec d'Oiseau rimaye. The descent via Les Nantillons is still passable, it's opening up and there are a few icy sections, but they are easy to get round. Otherwise nothing to report. Lots of good climbing up here.


Helbronner

The access is dry but you can still climb the Dent du Géant. For the Marbrées and Entrèves, it's best to opt for full traverses, because of the rimayes. The rimayes on the Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul and Adolphe Rey are still fine. The arêtes du Diable are much less climbed, as it's very dry, especially in the couloir.


Cosmiques

The Cosmiques arête is very dry! So is the arête Laurence, but it's still being climbed. Little activity on the Pointe Lachenal due to the dry conditions. The 3 Monts are still being climbed, there's still a fixed rope to get over the 1st rimaye on Maudit, but you have to go around the 2nd, as the bridge is now very fragile.
 
 
Gonella

The Dôme glacier has deteriorated considerably in recent days. The glacier is very open and the snow bridges are fragile. There are frequent rockfalls below the Aiguilles Grises. In view of the conditions, the hut is closed, and the guardian will go back up when it's cooler.


Monzino

Conditions on the Brouillard glacier are no longer good: rock falls, crevasses, dry arête! On the other hand, all the rock routes around the refuge are practicable except for the Pilier Rouge because of the access.


Gouter

Overall conditions are still good. Following the rain, rockfalls resumed in the afternoons in the Grand Couloir, lets hope it will snow next time. Higher up, things are starting to open up, so the classic route is best for the 1st "bosse", then contour round to reach the Tournette.
 


Conscrits

The Dômes de Miage from the Conscrits are in pretty good condition for the season (see photo above) and the ‘belle arête’ is well covered in snow.

This is the end for the traverse, with quite a bit of ice at the Col de la Bérangère except for a small strip of snow that may not survive the next rainfall - be sure to know how to crampon - It's all over for the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête.
 


Durier sector

The Bionnassay arête is being climbed every day and is still snow (see photos above).

The Dômes de Miage are dry between the Col des Dômes and Durier, so beware of rock fall. 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Arctic-Alpine Lichens: Hiding in Plain Sight

Nathan Chrismas is an Aspirant AC Member and lichenologist. He studies the diversity and function of lichens in polar and alpine environments. His latest project, CryptFunc, involves understanding the functional ecology of Arctic-alpine lichens in the Cairngorms. Here he explains more about these remarkable organisms and how their distribution is being impacted by environmental pressures.


The elegant sunburst lichen (Rusavskia elegans) on the south-east ridge of the Weissmies (AC Aspirants Meet, 2023) - Nathan Chrismas

Mountains can be inhospitable places. Biting winds, long cold nights, exposure to the sun, and lack of food are all familiar experiences to alpine climbers. Mountaineers tend to be hardy folk though and are happier than most to tough it out when conditions turn grim. But even the most resilient among us don’t come close to another group of mountain enthusiasts: the lichens.

Lichens are a paradox. They are incredibly abundant, having found ways of colonising almost every terrestrial habitat on the planet. By some estimates they are dominant organisms on as much as 8% of the Earth's surface. Yet to our eyes they are often invisible, obscured by their ubiquity. It is only when they are at their most flashy that lichens draw our attention - a bright orange splash on the tip of a boulder, a fluorescent yellow tangle on the trunk of a tree - but look closer and you will begin to see lichens everywhere you look. This is no more true than for climbers and explorers. The most exposed sea cliffs, the highest mountains, and wide expanses of Arctic tundra; all are home to a rich diversity of lichens growing on rocks, soil, moss, and plants.

Their biology is fundamental to their versatility. It’s almost impossible to find anything living in complete isolation, and lichens quite literally embody this principle. They are a fungus and algae living in close coordination with each other; the algae generating enough sugar through photosynthesis to nourish both themselves and the fungus, while the fungus provides a structure within which those algae can grow. It’s this symbiotic relationship that has allowed lichens to occupy such an incredibly diverse range of habitats. By ‘farming’ algae, the lichen fungus can survive in places nothing else can, including the polar regions and the high mountains. Interestingly, the word ‘symbiosis’ was first invented by Albert Bernhard Frank in 1877 to describe the relationship seen in lichens.

In the UK, mountainous lichen habitats are no more apparent than in the Cairngorms. These granite hills are a unique environment on our islands. Scotland’s latitude means that species associated with the high mountains in central Europe can survive here at much lower elevations. The relatively dry Cairngorm Plateau has characteristics reminiscent of Arctic tundra, the sort of landscape more readily associated with Finland or Svalbard. Just as reindeer roam the broad expanses of tundra in Finland, so the Cairngorm reindeer herd have made the plateau their home. When winter comes, both Scottish and Scandinavian populations turn to the only reliable source of food: reindeer lichens. These bushy species, like Cladonia arbuscular, cover huge areas of exposed and wind-clipped terrain, dominating in landscapes where flowering plants are at their limit.

The author examining lichen heath on Meall a’ Bhuachaille

Both the mountains and the polar regions are changing, and the lichens along with them. The highlands of Scotland already support relict populations of lichen species that were once widely distributed at the end of the last ice age, creeping further northwards and to higher elevation at a literally glacial pace as the ice retreated. Today, as our climate warms more rapidly than ever before, these shifts in the distribution of lichen populations are happening right before our eyes. The white worm lichen (Thamnolia vermicularis) is a true arctic-alpine specialist that can be found fairly frequently in the Cairngorms. However, last year it was declared extinct in North Wales, presumed lost to warming, grazing, and trampling. Many more lichen species are likely to suffer a similar fate.

Of course, lichens will always be there in the hills. Whatever the environmental conditions, there will almost always be lichens adapted to them. But the species we see are not as fixed in stone as they might appear and the arctic-alpine specialists are important ones to watch as our global climate changes.

White worm lichen (Thamnolia vermicularis) growing amongst a bushy reindeer lichen (Cladonia arbuscular) on the Cairngorm plateau - Nathan Chrismas

Lichens are amongst the most under-studied groups of organisms on the planet and there are still many open questions about the fundamental principles that underlie their biology and ecology. They play an as yet poorly understood role in global nutrient cycles, introducing and recycling carbon and nitrogen in otherwise nutrient depleted environments. Our new research project based in the Cairngorms hopes to shed some light on these processes and explore what lichens at home can tell us about the fate of a future Arctic.

Other projects are focusing on the mechanisms behind the interactions between fungi and algae, probing the very nature of mutualistic interactions; it’s an exciting time to be involved in lichen research. All of this, while the questions of how many lichens are even out there remains unanswered. New species are still being described here in the UK and, with no baseline estimates of lichen biodiversity in many of the planet’s most remote regions, the race is now on to document as much as we can about these remarkable organisms as they respond to their rapidly changing habitats.

If this has piqued your interest, below are a few species to keep an eye out for the next time you’re in the Cairngorms, the Alps or anywhere cold or high. You can also find more information on the lichens of the Cairngorms in The Montane Heathland Lichen Guide by Andrea Britton.

 


Alpine bloodspot lichen (Ophioparma ventosa): This eye-catching Arctic-alpine grows on rocks and gets its name from its bright crimson fruiting bodies.
It has a fairly broad distribution and can be found as low down as Dartmoor.

Grey Witches hair (Alectoria nigricans): This dark lichen can be hard to spot and looks like a tuft of hair.
It grows near the ground in very wind-exposed environments like ridges.

 

 


Iceland lichen (Cetraria islandica): This is a ‘shadow lichen’ of alpine heath; hard to spot, but when you know what to look for you’ll start seeing it everywhere!
This lichen can be brewed into a tea and you can buy it in corner shops in Iceland.

Map lichen (Rhizocarpon geographicum) photographed on Skye’s Inaccessible Pinnacle (AC Highlands and Islands Meet, 2023)

 

 Crinkled snow lichen (Flavocetraria nivalis): This pale yellow leafy lichen is a common sight on alpine heath, but in the UK is only found in the Cairngorms.

Its colour works as a sunscreen to protect it from exposure to UV radiation.

 

You can follow Nathan Chrismas on TwitterThreadsFacebook and Instagram.

You can also catch him in the new BMC series The Landscape Project which explores the natural history (including lichenology) of UK climbing venues.

 

 

 

Livingstone and Cesen Succeed on Gasherbrum III

Livingstone and Cesen Succeed on Gasherbrum III

Ales Cesen and AC member Tom Livingstone have made the first ascent of the west ridge of Gasherbrum III (7952m).

The pair had previously attempted the route in 2022, when strong winds had forced them to abandon their attempt on the ridge. Having relocating to the northern side of the peak, a second attempt came to a halt when they ran into a large tower at around 7,800m.

Announcing their successful 2024 ascent, Livingstone stated that the climb took them a total of 7 days, including the descent via the fixed lines on Gasherbrum II's normal route. He described the route, which the pair have dubbed Edge of Entropy, as 'one of the more difficult that I’ve ever climbed' and revealed that the duo undertook an open bivi at 7,800m.

The ridge had been attempted once before in 1985 by a Scottish team made up of Geoff Cohen, Paul Nunn, Clive Rowland and Des Rubens. The mountain itself had only seen two prior ascents before Livingstone and Česen's climb.

 

 

 

Report: 9 August 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 9 August 2024.

Over the last 2 weeks, we've seen a marked change in conditions in the high mountains, which is hardly surprising for August 9 in the 21st century. The opportunities for snow routes are shrinking, giving way to rock climbing. The zero isotherm for the next few days is around 5,000m, which isn't great for refreezing conditions. 

Its much better to go climbing on solid rock, which avoids worrying about refreezing and permafrost melt.

We continue to post daily on our news feed, so be sure to check it out here


Le Tour

It's now looking complicated to get back onto the glacier from the "new" Chardonnet abseil line. See news feed.


Argentière sector

A detailed report on the Jardin arête in our route notebook
 

Talèfre

Around the Couvercle hut, activity is now concentrated on the Aiguille du Moine, where the rimaye is OK to cross. The high isotherm of recent weeks seems to have put an end to snow routes, with the exception of Pointe Isabelle which, according to Pinou the guardian, is still in good condition. Less activity also on the Moine ridge.


Leschaux

In the words of the hut guardian: "We've got superb conditions, the glaciers are great for accessing all the routes around the hut. 

Grandes Jorasses: Walker spur, (Cassin) ✅
Plenty of ice in the red chimney: 2 axes and ice screws recommended. 
Aiguille de Leschaux ✅
- Petites Jorasses ✅
- climbing routes above the refuge ✅
- Balcony path ✅
no more névés - refuge ✅✅✅
 
Photos available on the refuge's Facebook page
 

Charpoua

There's no snow on the American direct to be able to make water. See our news feed for more details on the artificial pitch. Several rock falls have been observed in recent weeks on the west face. A rock fall this morning (09/08), next to the normal route on the Petit Dru. 

From the refuge, the glacier is still ok to reach the foot of the Contamine and for the Drus traverse. Let's see how things develop. There is still some snow to access Sale Athée, so crampons are still needed. 


Envers des Aiguilles

There's climbing everywhere. Opinions differ on the crossing of the rimaye Grépon Mer de Glace / voie normale de la République: some people thought it was fine, others not so much. On the other hand, conditions on the Nantillons glacier have deteriorated. Ice in some places, falling rocks in others. Efficiency and timing are vital. 
 

Helbronner

Lots of people on the Grand Capucin and its satellites. We still advise against climbing the Clocher and the Trident, as there are several signs of instability. Beware of the rimayes/rotures to gain a foothold on the rock. The Grand Cap rimaye is difficult to climb and there is a risk of falling rocks. For the left-hand routes, it is best to access via the "Francesco" terrace. 

There are also many teams on the Grandes Jorasses traverse, in both directions! Watch out for overcrowding on these routes. 


Cosmiques / Les 3 Monts

A fixed rope has been installed to cross the lower rimaye of Mont Maudit. The ice is starting to appear on the mur de la Cote. 

The Cosmiques Arête is now (too?) dry. 
 

Gouter

The couloir is now dry, with few rockfalls so far. Between the Gouter refuge and the summit, it's still all snow. 


Durier 

Still good conditions on the Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc traverse. No ice on the Miage and the end of the ridge is mainly dry. Bionnassay, also in good conditions, narrow as usual but a good track makes it a bit easier. 
 

South face of Mont Blanc 

Almost no snow on the S ridge of the Noire. 

There hasn't been much recent information between the Grand Pilier d'Angle and the Brouillard ridge. The sun and the temperatures must have done their job there too. 

Rockfalls were observed near the Innominata, and access to the Eccles seems to have deteriorated.  


On the hiking front, the fun continues, with the final points to watch out for being the Col de la Glière, Mont Buet and Col de Salenton, where the snow persists. 
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

New BMC Video Series Explores the Ecology of Climbing Venues

New BMC Video Series Explores the Ecology of Climbing Venues

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) have teamed up with AC member Nathan Chrismas and filmmaker Jimmy Hyland to produce a series of videos exploring the ecology and geology of various UK climbing areas. The Landscape Project visits popular crags and shows how, as climbers, we move among a wealth of natural history, from the rocks themselves to the numerous species that make them their homes.

You can view all of the videos in the series via the BMC's YouTube Playlist.

 

 

 

Report: 1 August 2024

Summer is advancing and temperatures are soaring. But the mountains still look white and conditions are good above 4,000m. There has been a big change lower down, though. The wet spring weather had enabled us to gain a little time and preserve the conditions in the high mountains, but with the current heat everything is changing very quickly. 

La Chamoniarde are still posting daily on theirr news feed, so don't forget to check it here

Overview of the massif and surrounding area: 
 

Le Tour
 
All the snow has gone on the access path to the Albert Prem hut so its absolutely fine for walkers.


Arête Forbes 
 
A 15m section of blue ice on the "bosse". Its just over 50m between belays on the abseil line re-equipped by ENSA in 2023, so dont go off the end of the rope.


Argentière glacier

The Glacier du Milieu is ice, 2 bridges on the rimaye which pass on the RHS. At least 40m of the route is dry. There are still 3 belays on the right bank. Just ok with a 50m rope, better with a 60m.

 
Charpoua

Access to the Drus via the glacier is still OK. Make sure you go around the top to avoid the crevassed area and reach the start (where the abseil line arrives). Rock falls have been observed in the access couloir during the day. As for the rest, there's climbing everywhere! 


Talèfre basin

Good conditions on the Arête du Moine, the rimaye can be crossed on the left bank. Not many people on the Moine itself

With the temperatures the Whymper will be tricky. No one seen on Les Droites and Les Courtes. Rapid change observed. The summit mixed passage at Pointe Isabelle is very dry. 


Leschaux: 

The Cassin route on the Walker seems to be in good condition. The stable weather over the next few days could be ideal for climbing it. The Mont Mallet glacier is still in good condition. 


Envers des Aiguilles

A detailed review of the Grépon Mer de Glace here. Everything else is doable. Watch out for the snow/rock junction (roture) when you set foot at the start of the routes. 
 

Requin

The approach to the refuge via the Vallée Blanche is all snow. Allow 2.5/3 hours. 

Access to the foot of the Renaudie via the glacier/nevé is in good condition. The new abseil line is convenient and efficient. 

Congo Star: the torrent blocks access to the face. The guardians have installed a 50m abseiling line for access from the top. Ask the hut for more information. 

The Aiguille du Plan there and back from the refuge is in good condition. The first section is on ice. 
 
Everything else is climbable. 


Plan de l'Aiguille

There have been several rock falls in recent weeks in the Deux Aigles amphitheatre area, so the Peigne-Pélerins-Deux Aigles traverse has been affected and you need to have a sense of the route, a taste for adventure and loose rock to get through. This has also had an impact on the start gully of Davaille-Julien.

Crampons (or ice axes) can still be useful for accessing the red pillar of the Blaitiere.

The Nantillons glacier is still in decent condition, but you need to get there early.
 
 


Aiguille du Midi 

Still good conditions for the Mont Blanc via the 3 Monts (2 ice axes required). A fixed rope is in place on Mont Maudit at the rimaye in the middle of the face to make the climb easier.

The Cosmiques ridge is now (too?) dry. Choose the north-facing option to avoid the landslide zone. 


Punta Helbronner

Access to the Arête du Diable has deteriorated rapidly: there is a gully through the rimaye. Then the traverse is dry and the terrain loose. In the couloir, you can hear the water flowing... Watch out for overcrowding!
 
The window of opportunity for the Kuffner is over? There's a 1.5m rimaye to cross, so you'll need to build a deadman. However, the rest of the route remains in good condition but is evolving very quickly. The upper part is now dry, so watch out for falling rocks. 

A lot of people on the Grandes Jorasses traverse. Access to the Dent du Géant is dry, so watch out for rockfalls (try to stay on the route). The Rochefort arête is still good, despite a bit of ice near the fixed rope. After that, conditions were generally good. Plenty of snow on the upper part of Pointe Young. The descent of the Walker is generally good, even if the serac seemed active a few days ago. The glacier above the Bocallate is OK. You need to descend early.
 

Monzino

Mixed feedback and opinions for the Innominata. Good conditions for some, rescue for others.  

The ascent to the Eccles and the col are in good conditions. You still have to cross some impressive bridges, so it's better to stay on the left bank. There is an abseiling line between the bivouac and the glacier.

The pitches on the rock are generally dry. The cornices are small. All the snow sections are well tracked and refreeze well.

We crossed the Grand Couloir before dawn. It's still OK, although it's starting to get a bit icy and rocky. It's more comfortable with 2 ice axes.
 
Aiguille Blanche: Good conditions.  2x 60m abseils from col Eccles but ok with 50m ropes and downclimbing.  Then some gravelly diagonal descending to access upper Freney glacier.  We climbed the middle of the face at about grade 3-4 plus chossy moving together.  Might be better to climb the LHS and use bolted rap stations as runners/belays.  Looks about grade 5 but better rock.

Teams on the Pilier Rouge and the Freney pillar.


Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

From today, 01/08, the hut will no longer be manned. "Winter room" with 16 places. The best route is the lower jonction, the plateaus and corridors were tracked this week. The North ridge of the Gouter is ice.


Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter 
 
"The Aiguille du Gouter couloir is alive and kicking", says the guardian. We're starting to see some significant rock falls. So timing is everything! Above the refuge, the conditions were still very good. Snowy, little ice. 


Plan Glacier

Good news from Plan Glacier: the Miage path via the Ours moraine has been restored and is now officially open. Its a route for walkers, cold drinks on arrival. 


Durier 
 
Not much water left near the refuge, so remember to take enough. It will still be possible to buy some at the refuge. The royal traverse is in good condition. 


Conscrits

Still good conditions for the Dômes de Miage, as well as for access to the Durier hut. There's still a small window of opportunity to get to Mont Tondu, which is changing rapidly! Around fifty metres of ice below the summit of the aiguille Nord de Tré la Tête. 


Hiking 
 
Enjoy it! The last snow-covered areas in the Aiguilles Rouges are the Col de Glière and the Col de Salenton. Lac Noir and Lac Cornu are still covered in snow. On the Swiss border, there is still snow on the Cheval Blanc and Col de la Terrasse. Poles and crampons are still required. 

The Petit Balcon Sud towards Parc Merlet has reopened, as have the climbing routes on the Brévent.
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Up Close with Outdoor Designer Ronnie Legg

Up Close with Outdoor Designer Ronnie Legg

Veronica “Ronnie” Legg is a climber and clothing designer who’s worked for some of the UK’s best-known mountain brands. We caught up with her to discuss her role as a designer, gaps in the women’s outdoor clothing market and some of her key climbing experiences.

Working on the latest prototype for Vertura

Can you tell us how you first got into climbing? 

I was introduced to it through Scouts when I was around 10, and the local leisure centre had a climbing wall which was lucky. I liked it so much I did an introduction to outdoor climbing on southern sandstone with Nick Tullis (Julie Tullis’s son), and from that moment I was hooked. Growing up in Sussex meant the mountains were a long drive away, which is one of the reasons why I ended up at university in Leeds.

 

What's your job and what does it involve?

I’m an outdoor clothing designer and recently started my own brand (Vertura) focussed purely on women-specific technical clothing.

I’ve been working in design since 2010. I started out at Rab, which was a great place to develop my design skills with the support of a bigger team, before moving on to Alpkit where I’ve been responsible for developing the entire clothing range since 2015.

In broad terms, my job involves identifying a problem, and finding the right materials and manufacturing partners that can help make the design I have in mind to solve that problem.

Designing technical clothing is much less about drawing than people think. I spend more time in Excel and on email than creating pretty pictures. The hardest part is sourcing, and working within the parameters that the brand or end customer demands (be that cost, performance level, look, feel or sustainability). Then there’s all the other aspects like fit, testing, quality and colour to consider. It usually takes between 6 and 18 months to develop a product from start to finish, but sometimes it’s even longer.

Ronnie tackling the cornice on Cinderella, Creagh Meagaidh - Andy Cowan

How do you find working professionally in a field that you also spend your free time engaging in?

Funnily enough, I was torn between becoming an outdoor instructor and pursuing a career in design. I tried the instructor route for a little while, getting my basic qualifications at Plas Y Brenin and instructing their summer programme and then working as a mountain leader on an expedition to Svalbard. I found this was too close for comfort and it affected my desire to get out and do stuff for myself. Working in design means I can save my energy for big days out or trips that I want to do.

One of the downsides of being a designer is that it’s a bit embarrassing if you get caught out without the right clothing. Then again, getting cold or wet can serve as a good reminder of why I do it!

Climbing is so absorbing I’m not usually thinking about what I’m wearing (until I get to the belay, and then it’s all I think about!) But I’m always looking at what other people are wearing. I do sometimes have to check myself to make sure I’m not staring, trying to work out how a particular seam has been constructed!

 

It seems remarkable that you’ve found time to start a new company alongside your day job. Can you tell us a little more about Vertura?

One of the reasons I started Vertura was out of frustration that I couldn’t buy women’s technical down clothing suitable for my trip to climb Ama Dablam. I’m an average height female with curves in all the usual places, and wearing a men’s or ‘unisex’ product just doesn’t work. I figured if no one else was going to solve this problem, then I should. So I designed a super-warm down jacket, and even made my own down trousers for the trip. I’m still in the prototyping and sourcing stage, but I’m loving the process of developing my own brand and creating something to fill a niche that’s close to my heart.

I’ve done a soft launch already with some simpler products like hats and thermal leggings (the kind of thing you always need on a trip) while I work on the more complex items like down-insulated trousers and jackets suitable for expeditions to higher altitudes.

I always say I’d rather be busy than bored, and I’ve definitely been living up to that. For the first year I basically worked most evenings and weekends on top of my day job. Now I’ve transitioned to part-time at Alpkit to give me more time to work on Vertura but also to have a life again and find time to go climbing!

I really want Vertura not only to serve women’s needs for technical clothing, but also inspire them and show them they are just as capable of tackling high peaks or arctic expeditions as men. I’m a firm believer that you can’t be what you can’t see, so curating a collection of books about and by women, and writing articles to demystify some of the common barriers women face are another aspect of Vertura.

A sneak peak of the Vertura down jacket out on a test

What made you choose Ama Dablam for an expedition and how did you find the experience of climbing it?

Like many people, I’ve always wanted to go to the Himalayas, having read so much about the region. I’ve organised my own trips in the past, as far and as high as the Bolivian Andes, but being self-led has always meant being conservative in my ambition routes-wise. If I was going to go as far as Nepal (and I didn’t have anyone to go with, so it had to be an organised trip), I figured I should try something more technical and a bit higher. There’s also just something incredibly appealing about the shape of Ama Dablam.

I had been warned it was a tough mountain, and it certainly felt it. I found acclimatising fairly slow going, and didn’t enjoy the lower part of the mountain that much. The climbing on the upper section was simply superb though. It was like a series of 3-star classic routes of every kind: slabs, easy rock, technical rock, ice, mixed and snow. The exposure is downright outrageous, and I was very glad of the fixed ropes.

It was a long summit day, and between the cold and the altitude I suffered with a bit of fuzzy vision (although that took the edge off the exposure!). The hardest part was actually descending the next day. With a combination of calorific deficit and high altitude cough I was pretty wrecked. It was totally worth it though.


Advanced base camp on Ama Dablam, with the route from camp 2 to the summit on the left skyline

Approaching Chachacomani (6074m) in the Cordillera Real, Bolivia - Alys Jepson

Now that you've carved out some time to climb again do you have any climbing plans or aspirations for the next few years?

I would love to go back to the Andes at some point. Maybe Peru next time. I’ve been neglecting my skiing these last few years, so having got back on the slopes this winter I’d like to improve my off-piste skiing and get back into ski touring. I’ve never done a proper ski mountaineering expedition so that’s on my wish list too. There are loads of places I’ve not been that I’d like to visit, including Lofoten and the Bugaboos. As usual there’s too much to do and too little time!

 

You can follow Ronnie’s work with Vertura at www.vertura.co.uk, via Instagram, Facebook and Twitter/X.

 

 

 

Report: 24 July 2024

This is the weekly summary translated from the original French. Daily updates (in French only) may also be available on the Chamoniarde website.  
 
Summer is here at last: stable weather, little wind and a decent refreeze!
 
It's relatively warm: snow & mixed routes are changing, but the conditions are still good for the end of July in the 21st century! We'll have to keep an eye on the glaciers, rimayes and slopes. At the same time, the rock continues to dry out, particularly above 4,000m!
 
As far as hiking is concerned, almost everything is feasible!
 
 
Le Tour
 
Access to the Albert Prem is now completely dry, with only a tiny, residual snow patch below the hut. 
 
Chardonnet: the gullies are now completely dry. It's the end of the season for the Migot Spur, with a wide open rimaye and very dry above. The Forbes Arête is in good condition. There's just a bit of ice on the "Bosse", but otherwise everything's fine. Conditions are still quite good on the normal route.
 
The Aiguille du Tour is being climbed daily via the Arête de la Table and the normal route: nothing to report.
 
Good conditions on the normal routes of Petite Fourche and Tête Blanche (for information, the north face is no longer being climbed).
 
Aiguilles Dorées traverse: good general conditions but no further details.
 
 
Argentière Glacier
 
As we announced last week, the access to the Argentière hut has been modified by adding 21m of ladders below the old ones to avoid climbing the moraine.
 
This is the end for the Flèche Rousse (very dry at the bottom).
 
You can still descend via the Glacier du Milieu if you get there early.
 
The rimaye on the Pointe des Améthystes is steep and technical, best done with 2 ice axes. The ridge is practically all snow.
 
The rock is nice and dry!
 
 
 
 
Drus
 
The Dru traverse is in good condition and the Contamine (see photo above).
 
‘The Charpoua glacier is still passable, but there are a few tricky sections, including a small jump to cross a crevasse,’ says the guardienne. (See photo below!)
 
 
 
 
Talèfre basin
 
Get to the hut by the true left bank of the Mer de Glace, then crossing to the right bank (just below the Envers ladders): this avoids crossing the river (bediere) in the middle of the glacier several times. It is best to use the ladders that go up to the balcony path (access is quite steep and there is some rope to get up to the ladders).
 
Nice rock climbing on the Moine and the Nonne-Evêque traverse: the rimayes are almost non-existent. 
 
Arête du Moine on the Verte: the rimaye doesnt look good but you can cross it on the RHS and then go back left to find the start of the route. There is still a little snow on the upper part: with good refreezing conditions, the route is feasible. 
 
Arête du Jardin: the rimaye is still passable, but there has been a rockfall. The letterbox no longer exists, it can be climbed with aid, but it's not the same.
 
Whymper Couloir: some teams failed at the start of the week, the rimaye is no longer crossable in ascent but can still be considered on the way down. 
 
No news yet from the Grands-Montets ridge. 
 
Pointe Isabelle: conditions remain good: the route is all snow (only the mixed terrain is a little dry). Just a reminder: don't hang around under the seracs!  
 
 
 
 
Leschaux
 
Access to the refuge via the balcon path is getting better and better (a few residual névés with no difficulties). Flexible ladders have been added at the bottom of the glacier access.
 
The Petites Jorasses and the Aiguille de Leschaux have been climbed with easy glacier access.
 
The granite behind the refuge is in good condition. 
 
The north face of the Grandes Jorasses hasn't been done yet. Looks like mixed conditions from the triangular névé upwards. Something to think about!
 
 
Envers/Requin
 
Almost everything is good!
 
The République/Grepon sector has dried out nicely, but watch out for crowds at the Tour Rouge bivouac.
 
Access to the Ryan ridge (Aiguille du Plan) is no longer possible, as the crevasse that runs along the access cone has opened up and no longer allows access to the wall above.
 
Requin: the glacier de l'Envers is still OK, zigzagging a little. 
 
The ascent and descent of the Vallée Blanche pose no problems. The glacier is still quite well filled in.
 
The Dent du Requin is being done a lot. A new access route has also been equipped to facilitate access to Congo Star when the torrents are too big (check with the refuge).
 
 
Punta Helbronner
 
A few teams on the Jorasses traverse, probably still a lot of snow. The first pitches of Pointe Young are dry, but there's snow as soon as you switch to the north side.
 
No recent news from the other ridges (Hirondelles, Tronchey) even though there must be a lot of people there (thanks in advance for your feedback!)
 
Access to the Salle à Manger is drying out. Best to take off your crampons and take the right-hand side of the couloir. Be careful not to follow the old track that used to pull you left in the snow and which leads you into rotten terrain, but keep to the right along the edge of the spur.
 
The belays on the Dent du Géant have been re-equipped.
 
Tour Ronde: the Gervasuttti couloir may still be possible (to be confirmed). Use the full Freshfield Arête.
 
Quite a few teams on the Kuffner Arête, which is holding up well, and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse, which is drying out, both in good conditions (with refreezing, of course).
 
The Tacul satellites are fine, apart from an unstable zone at the top of the Clocher du Tacul with rockfalls on the routes below.
 
 
Aiguille du Midi
 
Good conditions on the Trois Monts, no ice. Two ice axes may be useful, especially for the descent.
 
The goulottes on the Triangle can be done early in good freeze conditions (Contamine - Grisolle quite good, Chéré: L1 very dry then good).
 
The Cosmiques Arête is drying out.
 
Midi-Plan still okay with a good refreeze (dry rock, no ice, one sandy section but it's short). A few teams on the traverse of the Aiguilles. As a reminder, following a rock fall, the route is no longer passable in the Blaitière - Plan direction on the ascent to the Dent du Caiman.
 
The Vallée Blanche is still relatively easy. Take the lower track between the Col Flambeau and the Pointe Adolphe Rey (large crevasse that's opening up, see photo below).
 
 
 
 
Plan de l'Aiguille
 
This is the end for the Frendo Spur (dry exit).
 
As for the rest, it's all good!
 
The Nantillons glacier is still in good condition, with just a little blue ice.
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets
 
Last week for the hut (closes on 1 August). Guaranteed solitude for those contemplating a wild Mont Blanc! The last diehards have apparently put their skis away (icy below the Petit Plateau, so it's not so easy to ski!)
 
The path across the glacier has wands. There are still a few teams on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter (20m of ice at the top!) The plateaux are also tracked, as are the Corridors (on foot).
 
 
Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter
 
Conditions are holding up.
 
The Goûter couloir is full of snow. Make sure you get there early (on the way there and on the way back). Then it's dry all the way to the refuge.
 
 
Miage / Bionnassay
 
Great conditions up here!
 
Plan Glacier is still only accessible via the Col de Tricot and the sentier des Contrebandiers. The glacier leading up to Durier goes well, and after that it's generally dry.
 
The Tricot ridge looks dry up to the Pointe Supérieure, after which it's all snow!
 
Latest information on the Bionnassay traverse in our cahier de course.
 
The Durier refuge is full all week!
 
Access to the Conscrits only via the summer path!
 
The Tré-la-Tête glacier is OK, but watch out for the snow bridges, which are bound to change soon.
 
Dômes de Miage traverse in optimum conditions: no ice, good route down to the Col de la Bérangère, the ridge back up to the Bérangère is a good mix of rock and snow that climbs well with crampons. The descent to the refuge is down snow: the knees are very pleased!
 
Good conditions for the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête! Like many routes, don't follow the guidebook. Climb to the right of the serac (which means you have to pass underneath it, but it is not very threatening, see photo below) to get to the aiguille N. A bit of ice on the summit ridge, then good conditions. The descent via the Col des Glaciers is still all snow!
 
It's a little drier on the Mont Tondu side, particularly on the lower ledges (it can be a good idea to keep your crampons on in this sandy-gravel terrain).
 
 
 
 
Mont Blanc via Gonella
 
Aiguille Grise route in good conditions! Good route, the glacier still passes well, exit slope on the ridge and snow ridge.
 
Teams on the Tournette Spur report good conditions. From now on you need to go via the rocky spur as the Y-shaped couloir is dry and not very inviting (rock falls).
 
 
Monzino
 
The via ferrata up to the Borelli bivouac has been re-equipped. One belay is missing and the cables are partly in the snow at the Col Chasseur: crampons and ice axe are needed to cross the névé.
 
The Freney glacier is not easy but can be crossed. The Ratti-Vitale can be climbed.
 
South ridge of Aiguille Noire: névé to get onto the ridge. “Snow on the Pointe Brendel and in the couloir below Pointe Bich."
 
The Peuterey integral has been done. The Eccles couloir is becoming less and less popular. You need a good freeze and an early start for the outing because it's getting very hot.
 
Aiguille Croux and Punta Innominata OK.
 
The Eccles bivouac was overcrowded, but access via the glacier was good. Good conditions on the Innominata. A number of teams failed below the Col Emile Rey to access the Brouillard ridge (snow-laden slope). Teams on the Brouillard integral, to be continued! The Pilier Rouge is being climbed (access from the bottom is not possible, you have to go via Eccles + 2 abseils; pitch 9 is a bit wet). The Brouillard ridge is tracked out all the way to the summit. Quite a lot of snow, but there have been teams on the Freney pillar, but no further information.
 
 
Hiking
 
All the footpaths are now clear of snow, apart from the Col de la Glière, which can still be a problem.
 
The Salenton / Buet sector is still covered in snow, but is not a problem if you have proper boots.
 
On the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is still a little snow around the Val d’Arpette and at the foot of the Brévent ladders.
 
The section of the Petit Balcon Sud between Les Bossons and Merlet has reopened!
 
The tricky passage under the Chalet des Pyramides has been secured with a chain.
 
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Chamonix Condition Reports Become Daily for Summer 2024

La Chamoniarde, who produce regular condition reports on the Chamonix valley and surrounding areas for climbers, skiers and hikers, have begun to publish daily reports. This change has been instituted in response to the current, highly changeable nature of conditions in the Alps, which require more up-to-date information.

At other times, when the reports are published weekly, the Alpine Club works with La Chamoniarde to produce an English language translation of the reports for English speaking mountaineers. This is published on both La Chamoniarde and Alpine Club websites. We feel this is important as it ensures that the English version of the reports are accurate, taking into account vital, mountain-specific language and geographic understanding that automated translations may miss.

Unfortunately, the Club does not have the capacity to translate a daily conditions report. While we consider the potential options, the reports remain available in French via the La Chamoniarde website. 

If and when the reports return to a weekly schedule (likely at the end of the summer if not before), we will once again offer our regular translations