News

Hamish MacInnes

We are saddened to learn of the death on 23 November of our Honorary member Hamish MacInnes.

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Alpine ClubCast 20 - 15th December at 19:30


Sir Chris Bonington, John Porter and Andy Cave

AC Librarian Nigel Buckley talks to Sir Chris about the first ascent in 1974, then John Porter takes us up the South Face in 1978, and finally Andy Cave tackles developments on the North Face in 1997

As usual the talks will finish with a Q&A, for which we are also joined by Mick Fowler.

Geoffrey Templeman

News has reached us of the death of Geoff Templeman, a member since 1980 and an Assistant Editor of the Alpine Journal for many years.

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Evelio Echevarria

News has reached us of the death of our member Evelio Echevarria.  He helped out a lot with the Alpine Journal and was the author of The Andes, The Complete History of Mountaineering in High South America.  He had been a member for 60 years. 

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Alpine ClubCast 19 - 17th November at 19:30


Cathy O’Dowd, Andy Perkins and Phil Wickens

For those who think it’s more fun to descend your mountain on skis we have an evening of ski mountaineering in remote locations.

Cathy O’Dowd kicks off the evening with peaks in the Canadian Yukon. Then Andy Perkins showcases first ski descents in a little known fjord on the West Coast of Greenland.  Finally, Phil Wickens shows us how to get to Antarctica and what to do there.

As usual the evening will conclude with a Q&A

Alpine ClubCast 18 - 27th October at 19:30

Finest Climbs: Three connoisseurs reflect on what makes a great route

Charles Sherwood, Ian Parnell and Calvin Torrans

Charles Sherwood talks about his new book on finding the finest climb on each continent, then Ian Parnell talks about the UK’s Hard Rock routes as detailed in the newly released book of that name, and Calvin Torrans takes us to Ireland to give us an overview of some of the best climbing on the Emerald Isle.

We will finish with a Q&A

MEF Lecture - Annapurna 1970

MOUNT EVEREST FOUNDATION LECTURE

3 NOVEMBER 18:00 – 19:30

ONLINE - FREE

ANNAPURNA 1970

British Annapurna South Face Expedition 1970

The 1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition was the first to climb a difficult face route on an 8000m peak, a major Himalayan achievement.  On 27 May, Don Whillans & Dougal Haston  reached the summit of Annapurna I (26,545ft, 8,091 m). Chris Bonington led the expedition that approached from the Annapurna Sanctuary. The team used pioneering rock and ice climbing techniques to fix ropes up the steep South Face.

45th Anniversary screening of Everest the Hard Way + Exclusive Q&A

It's been forty-five years since Dougal Haston and Doug Scott stood as the first Brits on the summit of Everest, and the first ever team by the south-west face. To celebrate this incredible record-breaking achievement, we are pleased to announce a very special screening of Everest the Hard Way, followed by an exclusive Q&A with some of the original members of the team.

Alan Harris

We are saddened by the news that Alan Harris passed away in his 100th year on Friday 17th July. 

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Alpine Club Greeting Cards

Alpine Club Greeting Cards

Hilda Marion Hechle (1886-1939), Fee Glacier and Allalinhorn, watercolour (38 x 53 cm) © The Alpine Club Collection [HE015P]

 

Charles Pilkington (1850–1918), Cuillins from Balmacara (1889), watercolour (11 x 18 cm) © The Alpine Club Collection [GM007P]

The Alpine Club blank greeting cards are available in a pack of ten, consisting of two distinctive designs (five cards of each design). The images are stunning and, as a pair, offer a greetings pack with a lot of image contrast suitable for all occasions. The Hechle image is very stark, graphic with strong contrast, whilst the Pilkington is soft, monochromatic and elegant. Each pack costs £7.00, P&P of £2 for 1 or 2 packs and £3 for 3 (or each multiple of 3). Overseas postage – please contact the Office Manager via e-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

To purchase cards: Please contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.  or to 020 7613 0755

Or order online using PayPal

 

Route of AC members is awarded Piolets D’Or

Four remarkable ascents will be awarded Piolets d'Or in Ladek-Zdroj on September 19. The year 2019 turned out to be very rich for modern alpinism, with a substantial number of significant first ascents from all over the globe. The protagonists were alpinists of wide diversity.
One of the ascents is the First Ascent of Link Sar via the Southwest face. Congratulations to the team: MARK RICHEY, STEVE SWENSON, CHRIS WRIGHT, GRAHAM ZIMMERMAN.
 
CLICK HERE for details

Jeremy Whitehead

News has reached us of the death of our member, Jeremy Whitehead.

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Peter Page

 News has reached us of the death of our member Peter Page. who had been a member for 40 years.

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Up Close with Rob Collister

Interview by Melanie Windridge

The well-known guide, backcountry skier and writer Rob Collister recently stepped down as vice president of the Club and chair of its Environmental Group. Here he discusses his life, his passion for the mountains and his fears for the future of the natural world.

 

How did you get into climbing and skiing?

No one else in my family was interested in mountains. I had a privileged education – public school and Cambridge – but my parents crippled themselves financially educating their four children and there was no money left for school ski trips. I had to pay for myself. My first climbs were in the Cuillin on a school camp but I didn’t start climbing regularly until I left school and went up to Cambridge. Then, as now, I loved controlled, precise movement, the sense of space and exposure, the satisfaction of managing risk in potentially dangerous situations and the extraordinary places it allows one to get to, things accessible to all climbers whatever their grade. I was not very talented, did not enjoy frightening myself but was competent enough to get by on most things in the Alps. 

My first Alpine season was nearly my last. We had two unplanned bivis in three routes and I nearly died when an abseil anchor failed on a retreat. On the other hand, I found that I was well suited to the long sustained effort required in the Alps and enjoyed long hut walks that others hated, an attribute I discovered was even more useful when I got to the Hindu Kush in my second long vacation in 1968. 

Alpine ClubCast 17 – 28th July at 19:30

UK climbing adventures

As our final ClubCast before the summer break, we are focusing on UK climbing adventures, so as to offer some inspiration for the coming weeks when the usual travel further afield may not be possible. 

Richard Ive talks about climbing the ‘three’ great Scottish sea stacks in a 4-day push, Noel Williams talks about the traverse of the Skye Cuillin and Mick Fowler will focus on Skeleton Ridge on the Isle of Wight, but talk about other chalk climbs.

The talks will be followed, as usual, by a Q&A and then by a mountaineering quiz.

 

Les Piolets d’Or

The Charter

1. Spirit

The purpose of the Piolets d'Or awards is to raise awareness about the year's greatest ascents across the world.  They aim to celebrate the taste for adventure, the bravery and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world's great mountain ranges.

Anne Sauvy (Wilkinson)

We have been informed of the sad death on 9 July of Anne Sauvy (Wilkinson) who had been a member since 1975.  In addition to being a very accomplished alpine ice climber, Anne is best known as a prize winning mountain author. Her books of short stories - Flammes des Pierres - The Game of Mountain and Chance - Darkness and the Azure - were translated into multiple languages and won many literary awards. Anne also wrote 'Mountain Rescue Chamonix Mont Blanc, a highly acclaimed account of the PGHM rescue service.

Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Alpine ClubCast 16 – 21st July at 19:30

An Evening with the American Alpine Club: Link Sar First Ascent

The Alpine ClubCasts head across the Atlantic for an evening with the AAC.  Graham Zimmerman, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson (guest of honour at the Alpine Club dinner in 2017) join us to talk about their brilliant first ascent of Link Sar (7,041m) in the Eastern Karakoram in Pakistan, one of the last great Himalayan problems. 

Link Sar is situated in the Charakusa Valley and sits between the better known K6 and K7.  After Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman’s first ascent of the North West Face of Link Sar West in 2015, a route they named 'Fever Pitch’, and an attempt by Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi on the North East face, the main peak was finally climbed by Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman, Chris Wright and Mark Richey in August 2019.  Steve Swenson, for whom this was the third attempt at the summit, wrote on Instagram after his 2017 attempt: 'It's a complex and dangerous mountain, and we didn't reach the top. But we made a significant effort to find a safe route that avoids the objective hazards. We plan to return so we can finish what we started.'  Join us on Tuesday to hear how they finally did just that.

As usual we will finish with a Q&A