Report: 27 July 2023

Report: 21 July 2023

Report: 17 July 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 17 July 2023

An update on conditions up high which are being seriously affected by the strong south-westerly wind.

Even if the sun is shining (except sometimes on the high summits) the wind has been blowing hard since Saturday above 3500m (more than 100 km/h), and is expected to continue until Wednesday inclusive (possible closure of the Midi cable car).

The isotherm is above 4000m.

As a result, refreezing is mediocre below 4000m and there is little activity due to the storm at altitude. It’s advisable to consider rock routes not too high up for the next few days and above all avoid starting on routes where it will be difficult to retreat.

Snow conditions are likely to change quickly and for the worse and may no longer correspond to our report of 13 July. More information is expected when the weather settles down and we can go back up to altitude (we are waiting for your feedback).

Maybe it’s time for crag climbing.

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 13 July 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 13 July 2023

The dreaded heatwave has arrived, with the expected consequences: rock falls have started, the mountains are drying out and some glaciers are beginning to open up...

To see the glass as half full (it's always better), these temperatures are good news for hikers, who can now enjoy almost all the routes with dry feet. Only a few areas above 2400m remain tricky: see the dedicated article.

Getting back to the high mountains, in addition to the heat, it's blowing hard and a freeze is having trouble establishing itself these days. 


Le Tour 

Only a tiny névé left on the ascent to the refuge. The classics are still being climbed in good conditions: Aiguille du Tour via the Arête de la Table and normal route, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche. It's getting tricky on the Chardonnet, where ice is emerging little by little on the “bosse". On the descent, the Col Adam Reilly rimaye has collapsed and longer abseils are needed (allow 50m) on the left bank, which involves a tricky traverse. 


Argentière

No choice but to use the ladders to access the basin! Be careful at the foot of the ladders: unstable rock. A new fixed rope is in place to cross the snow slope behind (good path). Soon there'll be nothing but rock to get your teeth into up here! The Glacier du Milieu on the Aiguille d'Argentière is now reserved for experienced climbers. About ten metres of rock in the ‘narrows", with a 25m abseil to cross on the way down. The Jardin arête on the Aiguille d'Argentière can still be considered in decent condition (snow everywhere for bivouacs), but the Flèche Rousse and Charlet-Straton arêtes, as well as the Whymper route, are now finished.


Charpoua

Everything's good around the new hut! The American Direct is still busy (watch out for falling rocks in the current heat - there's snow in the niche) and the Drus traverse is still here (there's still a bit of snow to reach the Flammes de Pierres arête). The Contamine route on the Grand Dru is dry, with the exception of a small steep névé before the "characteristic roofs" of pitch 14, for which crampons may be useful when leading. On the abseils of the Grand Dru, one belay is under the snow. 


Talèfre Basin

The Moine is being done by all routes. Everything is good, except for the Contamine-Labrunie rimaye, which is starting to open up. We'll say it again: it's all over for the Whymper and the S couloir on the Col Armand Charlet. The Arête du Jardin is still possible but is reserved for very good climbers. The Moine arête has not yet been done, so we're still waiting for motivated climbers to take it on! The Droites have dried out and some of the teams who set out for the traverse have turned back. Good climbers who can keep to schedule might consider the Courtes traverse. Pointe Isabelle is still all snow, with the exception of the mixed section, which is dry but goes fine. 

Finally, the balcony path to the Leschaux is virtually dry, with only the occasional snow patch remaining.


Leschaux Sector

Apart from the Eboulement where the SW couloir is finished, the classic routes in the area are in good condition. This is particularly true of the approaches to the Aiguille de Leschaux and the W face of the Petites Jorasses. On the Grandes, the Walker is being done. When temperatures are high, a lot of water flows under the triangular nevé and into the red chimneys. The advantage is that if you want to see the glass completely full, all you have to do is hold it out! For the descent via the normal route, the snow is fine and the crampons are taken off at the Boccalate. 


Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

No significant changes in the sector since the last updates: the rimayes are all relatively easy. To get up to the Requin, it's still on the left or right bank, then you have to descend into a blocked crevasse before finding some brand new ladders (9m)! The Chapeau à Cornes Ridge on the Dent du Requin, the Ryan Ridge and the normal route on the Aiguille Pierre Allain are busy: good conditions. Beware of the torrents for the access to Congo Star, go early. The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is still fine. 


Helbronner

The Kuffner rimaye has collapsed and the ridge has dried out a lot: good conditions are no longer there! Conditions were a little better for the Diable Traverse although the access couloir is far from ideal (sections of loose rock, watch out for the teams below!) and you absolutely need a good refreeze to cross it. Then it's all good. There is climbing on all the satellites of the Tacul (although beware of possible instabilities at the bottom of the Bettembourg-Thivierge at Pointe Adolphe Rey). Otherwise, the classic mountaineering routes in the area are being done (Tour Ronde via the SE ridge and back, Entrèves, Toule, Flambeaux, Marbrées, etc.) For access to the Dent du Géant, the first rimaye is starting to cause problems: prefer a passage via the rocks on the right bank (on the left as you climb up). Good conditions and plenty of people for the Rochefort - Jorasses traverse. For the descent see the Leschaux report.


Aiguille du Midi 

After the Mallory, it's now the end for the Frendo and therefore the routes on the N face of the Aiguille du Midi. A little above, Midi-Plan is still passable, although some of the sections are dry and make the route a little more technical than usual. Some teams on the Chamonix aiguilles traverse, done in good conditions: a few short passages on ice, otherwise snow on the N faces and dry on the S faces. There's snow to make water at the Col du Caïman bivouac. For the descent, the Spencer is dry and loose: prefer abseiling (x5) via the spur on the left bank. To get back to the Col du Midi, you can still climb just about everywhere on rock, but it's getting late for the mixed routes and gullies on the Triangle du Tacul. Serac falls have been observed on the N face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. The Trois Monts can still be climbed by those with good crampon skills (plan to abseil 2x50m or 2 ice axes for the descent from the Col du Mont Maudit).


Plan de l'Aiguille

Little has changed in this sector since the last update. However, beware of the Nantillons glacier, which is getting worse by the day: plan to get there early! 


Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

Not many people left in the area, the Jonction still passes through a few zig zags, then there are a few traces of snow below the refuge and finally the N ridge is ice. All good above!


Mont Blanc via the Goûter

Not much change here either: the sentier des Rognes is still covered in snow and is not a shortcut at the moment! The runnels in the Goûter couloir still mean that you lose time crossing it, but there is now a good track. Of course, the current temperatures mean that there are more rockfalls: get there early and of course be careful! Above the Dôme du Goûter, conditions remain good, although there are some crevasses to negotiate on the N face of the Dôme du Goûter.


Dômes de Miage / Bionassay

From now on, we won't be walking in the snow at all to get up to the Conscrits! It rained all the way to the top of the Dômes last night, but conditions remain good on the traverse. Still OK at the Bérangère and Mont Tondu, although it's starting to open up after the col below the Pyramide Chaplan. It's all over for Tré-la-Tête and the Mettrier arête. The conditions are still good for the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay.


Gonella / Aiguilles Grises

Little change, watch out for the freeze...


Monzino

Provided the freeze is good, good conditions around here! Pilier Rouge du Brouillard, Innominata, Central Pillar of Freney... are regularly climbed! On the Peuterey Ridge: a few snow patches allow you to make water before the bivouac at the summit of the Noire. More snow at the Dames Anglaises bivouac. Lots of snow from the Blanche onwards, but all goes well. 

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 7 July 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 7 July 2023

The summer continues - so far we have been spared the heat... An initial period of heat seems to be looming this weekend (isotherm above 4000m, thunderstorms?..). Despite this, conditions are drying out in the high mountains, although a large number of snow routes are still possible provided there are good refreezing conditions (watch out for what happens this weekend...) Naturally, we will be gradually moving towards rock climbing. Be careful, it snowed in the thunderstorms on the south side two days ago and the rock may be plastered.

There hasn't been much change since last week, but here's some brief information area by area (if nothing is specified, it means there have been no changes since our last bulletin). Don't hesitate to give the guardians a call to get the latest information on the route you're planning! And don't forget to give us your feedback once you've downed the beer(s)!


Le Tour

There are a few bits of névé on the way to the refuge, but these are not a problem for most hikers!

It's the end for the Migot spur: the last attempts failed at the rimaye.The Forbes Arête is still in decent condition. The rimaye at Col Adam Reilly is in bad shape. Nothing to report on other routes.


Argentière Glacier

Following a breakdown, the Plan Joran gondola has reopened.

Some people are still using the left bank of the glacier to avoid the ladders, but this may change.

The route via the ladders is also popular. To get back on the glacier, you have to descend a very steep section of snow. A fixed rope is in place under the snow. It is possible to abseil from a bolt at the top. 

Rock routes are getting a lot of traffic (Charlet-Straton, Jardin etc)!

One team has climbed the Grands Montets ridge. Quite a few sections of bad rock. The alternative route to avoid the Pointe Ségogne was not/is no longer possible (loose rock, landslide). On the calotte, there are some very steep rimayes to climb (bring two ice axes). They tried the descent via the Moine ridge (untracked, too much snow). They reached the Whymper but it was a bit late and it felt like the end anyway.


Charpoua

There are still climbers on the American Direct (beware of the heatwave and falling rock fall).

The window of opportunity for the Drus traverse is here (still a bit snowy). The Contamine on the Grand Dru has been climbed (still névé on the route). The glacier is fine.


Talèfre Basin

An attempt to descend the Moine Arête (by a team coming up from the Grand Montets) was abandoned because of the snow and lack of knowledge of the route. It might work for other climbers who know the route. This is the end for the Whymper. The Jardin Arête would be climbable, but there's then the problem of the descent. We're in a bit of a pickle when it comes to all the snow routes (Droites, Courtes), a good freexe is vital and that you're a good climber. However, conditions are no longer optimal.

Moine (S ridge, normal route, Contamine), None-Evêque OK.

Pointe Isabelle is ok if it freezes. 


Leschaux

New website for the refuge!

Top conditions on the W face of the Petites Jorasses (glacier ok, dry rock).

Alert: The Walker spur on the N face of the Jorasses is in (optimal) condition. Dry rock up to the triangular névé, winter conditions above. Beware of overcrowding!

For the motivated, the Brèche des Périades is still a possibility.


Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

The climbing season is in full swing! No particular problems with rimayes or anything else!

The snow is disappearing on the way up to the Envers hut.

Grepon-Mer de Glace and the other routes are OK.

It's complicated to get to the foot of the Ryan Arête (some find it, others don't!). The start is a wet 4c crack. Access also possible from the Requin!

Access to the Requin via the Mer de Glace on the left or right bank is possible.

The Envers du Plan glacier is still accessible (right bank). As for the lower part, following several route finding mistakes, the guardian has drawn up a small sketch for you (see photo below).

Dent du Requin & Aiguille Pierre Alain OK

People are still going up (and down) the Vallée Blanche!


Helbronner

Arête de Jetoula: snow approach to the start of the couloir. All dry. New tat on the abseil points. A little snow on the way to the summit of the Marbrées.

Rochefort-Jorasses traverse: Good general conditions. Access to the Salle à Manger is drying out, a few rockfalls after the 1st couloir.

Rochefort arête: very good conditions.

Pointe Young is dry except for the last 2 pitches where there is still a little snow (climbing with crampons). The couloir below the brèche de la Pointe Marguerite is full of snow. After Pointe Croz, it's all snow: a narrow ridge at first, then a bit easier. Descent via the normal route in good conditions.

Rochers de Reposoir: mixed (snow/rock). Glacier well filled-in with snow but a few large snow bridges to watch out for below the Reposoir. A few teams also on the Hirondelles arête.

Kuffner Arête: continues to dry out. A good refreeze is absolutely essential.

Aiguilles du Diable traverse: access couloir: snow at the bottom, rubble/snow at the top. Good conditions once on the ridge, then poor mixed conditions again on the exit to the Tacul.


Aiguille du Midi

Conditions remain good overall, but the route to Tacul - Maudit - Mont Blanc is becoming increasingly technical: it hasn't snowed recently and you need to be comfortable with cramponing. There are still a few ice blocks falling from the seracs on Tacul. Two ice axes may be useful for the Col du Mont Maudit (particularly on the descent if you want to avoid abseiling, as there is no fixed rope in place).

The traverse of the Vallée Blanche changes according to the snow bridges, but is still OK. 


Plan de l'Aiguille

Grutter: ice axes/crampons for the approach, then it's all dry!

Crampons still needed for access to the main sectors (Peigne, Pilier Rouge etc).

The Nantillons glacier is holding its own!

Crampons no longer needed for the Frête des Charmoz (dry descent).


Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

It's all dry from the Plan de l'Aiguille. You can cross the Jonction, you’ll just have to find the right way! A little snow as far as the refuge. Ice on the N ridge of the Dôme (take two ice axes). The plateaux route is also passable. Peace and quiet guaranteed. Climbing the N ridge and descending Trois Monts can be a great combo for those with the necessary skills.


Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

The "Sentier des Rognes" is still very snowy.

The conditions in the Goûter couloir are not changing in a good way: big runnels, rock falls during the day or when the freeze is poort. Watch this space! In any event, you'll have to get there early and be careful. It is possible (and advisable) to clip the cable by taking the lower route.

Above, the conditions are still good. The section on the N face around the crevasse on the Bosses ridge is fine.


Dômes de Miage/Bionnassay

Good conditions on Mont Tondu, the Aiguille de la Bérangère, the Dômes de Miage traverse (also fine as a there and back) and the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay. People on the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête, but no info at present. Two ice axes recommended for the Mettrier Arête. The summer path to the Conscrits hut is almost completely dry.


Gonella

Good conditions overall, but still exposed to seracs on one section. Ascent to the Col de Bionnassay fine.


Monzino

Still a little snow on the S ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.

Ratti-Vitale: access to the Freney Glacier via the col Brogliata (15m abseil), the glacier is easy and the bridges seem solid. Rimaye ok (big snow bollard). The route is dry.

The Col Eccles is easy to traverse.

A rockfall has affected the start of the Pilier d'Angle. A V+ pitch on the crest is necessary (good rock, a few pitons in place).

The climb up to the Eccles is still a good one (as long as it's not too warm)! Innominata possible when it refreezes.

It has snowed high up in recent thunderstorms (the Freney pillar looks very snowy, and a rope team was evacuated from Divine Providence for the same reason).

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.