Report: 13 July 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 13 July 2023

The dreaded heatwave has arrived, with the expected consequences: rock falls have started, the mountains are drying out and some glaciers are beginning to open up...

To see the glass as half full (it's always better), these temperatures are good news for hikers, who can now enjoy almost all the routes with dry feet. Only a few areas above 2400m remain tricky: see the dedicated article.

Getting back to the high mountains, in addition to the heat, it's blowing hard and a freeze is having trouble establishing itself these days. 


Le Tour 

Only a tiny névé left on the ascent to the refuge. The classics are still being climbed in good conditions: Aiguille du Tour via the Arête de la Table and normal route, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche. It's getting tricky on the Chardonnet, where ice is emerging little by little on the “bosse". On the descent, the Col Adam Reilly rimaye has collapsed and longer abseils are needed (allow 50m) on the left bank, which involves a tricky traverse. 


Argentière

No choice but to use the ladders to access the basin! Be careful at the foot of the ladders: unstable rock. A new fixed rope is in place to cross the snow slope behind (good path). Soon there'll be nothing but rock to get your teeth into up here! The Glacier du Milieu on the Aiguille d'Argentière is now reserved for experienced climbers. About ten metres of rock in the ‘narrows", with a 25m abseil to cross on the way down. The Jardin arête on the Aiguille d'Argentière can still be considered in decent condition (snow everywhere for bivouacs), but the Flèche Rousse and Charlet-Straton arêtes, as well as the Whymper route, are now finished.


Charpoua

Everything's good around the new hut! The American Direct is still busy (watch out for falling rocks in the current heat - there's snow in the niche) and the Drus traverse is still here (there's still a bit of snow to reach the Flammes de Pierres arête). The Contamine route on the Grand Dru is dry, with the exception of a small steep névé before the "characteristic roofs" of pitch 14, for which crampons may be useful when leading. On the abseils of the Grand Dru, one belay is under the snow. 


Talèfre Basin

The Moine is being done by all routes. Everything is good, except for the Contamine-Labrunie rimaye, which is starting to open up. We'll say it again: it's all over for the Whymper and the S couloir on the Col Armand Charlet. The Arête du Jardin is still possible but is reserved for very good climbers. The Moine arête has not yet been done, so we're still waiting for motivated climbers to take it on! The Droites have dried out and some of the teams who set out for the traverse have turned back. Good climbers who can keep to schedule might consider the Courtes traverse. Pointe Isabelle is still all snow, with the exception of the mixed section, which is dry but goes fine. 

Finally, the balcony path to the Leschaux is virtually dry, with only the occasional snow patch remaining.


Leschaux Sector

Apart from the Eboulement where the SW couloir is finished, the classic routes in the area are in good condition. This is particularly true of the approaches to the Aiguille de Leschaux and the W face of the Petites Jorasses. On the Grandes, the Walker is being done. When temperatures are high, a lot of water flows under the triangular nevé and into the red chimneys. The advantage is that if you want to see the glass completely full, all you have to do is hold it out! For the descent via the normal route, the snow is fine and the crampons are taken off at the Boccalate. 


Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

No significant changes in the sector since the last updates: the rimayes are all relatively easy. To get up to the Requin, it's still on the left or right bank, then you have to descend into a blocked crevasse before finding some brand new ladders (9m)! The Chapeau à Cornes Ridge on the Dent du Requin, the Ryan Ridge and the normal route on the Aiguille Pierre Allain are busy: good conditions. Beware of the torrents for the access to Congo Star, go early. The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is still fine. 


Helbronner

The Kuffner rimaye has collapsed and the ridge has dried out a lot: good conditions are no longer there! Conditions were a little better for the Diable Traverse although the access couloir is far from ideal (sections of loose rock, watch out for the teams below!) and you absolutely need a good refreeze to cross it. Then it's all good. There is climbing on all the satellites of the Tacul (although beware of possible instabilities at the bottom of the Bettembourg-Thivierge at Pointe Adolphe Rey). Otherwise, the classic mountaineering routes in the area are being done (Tour Ronde via the SE ridge and back, Entrèves, Toule, Flambeaux, Marbrées, etc.) For access to the Dent du Géant, the first rimaye is starting to cause problems: prefer a passage via the rocks on the right bank (on the left as you climb up). Good conditions and plenty of people for the Rochefort - Jorasses traverse. For the descent see the Leschaux report.


Aiguille du Midi 

After the Mallory, it's now the end for the Frendo and therefore the routes on the N face of the Aiguille du Midi. A little above, Midi-Plan is still passable, although some of the sections are dry and make the route a little more technical than usual. Some teams on the Chamonix aiguilles traverse, done in good conditions: a few short passages on ice, otherwise snow on the N faces and dry on the S faces. There's snow to make water at the Col du Caïman bivouac. For the descent, the Spencer is dry and loose: prefer abseiling (x5) via the spur on the left bank. To get back to the Col du Midi, you can still climb just about everywhere on rock, but it's getting late for the mixed routes and gullies on the Triangle du Tacul. Serac falls have been observed on the N face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. The Trois Monts can still be climbed by those with good crampon skills (plan to abseil 2x50m or 2 ice axes for the descent from the Col du Mont Maudit).


Plan de l'Aiguille

Little has changed in this sector since the last update. However, beware of the Nantillons glacier, which is getting worse by the day: plan to get there early! 


Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

Not many people left in the area, the Jonction still passes through a few zig zags, then there are a few traces of snow below the refuge and finally the N ridge is ice. All good above!


Mont Blanc via the Goûter

Not much change here either: the sentier des Rognes is still covered in snow and is not a shortcut at the moment! The runnels in the Goûter couloir still mean that you lose time crossing it, but there is now a good track. Of course, the current temperatures mean that there are more rockfalls: get there early and of course be careful! Above the Dôme du Goûter, conditions remain good, although there are some crevasses to negotiate on the N face of the Dôme du Goûter.


Dômes de Miage / Bionassay

From now on, we won't be walking in the snow at all to get up to the Conscrits! It rained all the way to the top of the Dômes last night, but conditions remain good on the traverse. Still OK at the Bérangère and Mont Tondu, although it's starting to open up after the col below the Pyramide Chaplan. It's all over for Tré-la-Tête and the Mettrier arête. The conditions are still good for the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay.


Gonella / Aiguilles Grises

Little change, watch out for the freeze...


Monzino

Provided the freeze is good, good conditions around here! Pilier Rouge du Brouillard, Innominata, Central Pillar of Freney... are regularly climbed! On the Peuterey Ridge: a few snow patches allow you to make water before the bivouac at the summit of the Noire. More snow at the Dames Anglaises bivouac. Lots of snow from the Blanche onwards, but all goes well. 

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 7 July 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 7 July 2023

The summer continues - so far we have been spared the heat... An initial period of heat seems to be looming this weekend (isotherm above 4000m, thunderstorms?..). Despite this, conditions are drying out in the high mountains, although a large number of snow routes are still possible provided there are good refreezing conditions (watch out for what happens this weekend...) Naturally, we will be gradually moving towards rock climbing. Be careful, it snowed in the thunderstorms on the south side two days ago and the rock may be plastered.

There hasn't been much change since last week, but here's some brief information area by area (if nothing is specified, it means there have been no changes since our last bulletin). Don't hesitate to give the guardians a call to get the latest information on the route you're planning! And don't forget to give us your feedback once you've downed the beer(s)!


Le Tour

There are a few bits of névé on the way to the refuge, but these are not a problem for most hikers!

It's the end for the Migot spur: the last attempts failed at the rimaye.The Forbes Arête is still in decent condition. The rimaye at Col Adam Reilly is in bad shape. Nothing to report on other routes.


Argentière Glacier

Following a breakdown, the Plan Joran gondola has reopened.

Some people are still using the left bank of the glacier to avoid the ladders, but this may change.

The route via the ladders is also popular. To get back on the glacier, you have to descend a very steep section of snow. A fixed rope is in place under the snow. It is possible to abseil from a bolt at the top. 

Rock routes are getting a lot of traffic (Charlet-Straton, Jardin etc)!

One team has climbed the Grands Montets ridge. Quite a few sections of bad rock. The alternative route to avoid the Pointe Ségogne was not/is no longer possible (loose rock, landslide). On the calotte, there are some very steep rimayes to climb (bring two ice axes). They tried the descent via the Moine ridge (untracked, too much snow). They reached the Whymper but it was a bit late and it felt like the end anyway.


Charpoua

There are still climbers on the American Direct (beware of the heatwave and falling rock fall).

The window of opportunity for the Drus traverse is here (still a bit snowy). The Contamine on the Grand Dru has been climbed (still névé on the route). The glacier is fine.


Talèfre Basin

An attempt to descend the Moine Arête (by a team coming up from the Grand Montets) was abandoned because of the snow and lack of knowledge of the route. It might work for other climbers who know the route. This is the end for the Whymper. The Jardin Arête would be climbable, but there's then the problem of the descent. We're in a bit of a pickle when it comes to all the snow routes (Droites, Courtes), a good freexe is vital and that you're a good climber. However, conditions are no longer optimal.

Moine (S ridge, normal route, Contamine), None-Evêque OK.

Pointe Isabelle is ok if it freezes. 


Leschaux

New website for the refuge!

Top conditions on the W face of the Petites Jorasses (glacier ok, dry rock).

Alert: The Walker spur on the N face of the Jorasses is in (optimal) condition. Dry rock up to the triangular névé, winter conditions above. Beware of overcrowding!

For the motivated, the Brèche des Périades is still a possibility.


Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

The climbing season is in full swing! No particular problems with rimayes or anything else!

The snow is disappearing on the way up to the Envers hut.

Grepon-Mer de Glace and the other routes are OK.

It's complicated to get to the foot of the Ryan Arête (some find it, others don't!). The start is a wet 4c crack. Access also possible from the Requin!

Access to the Requin via the Mer de Glace on the left or right bank is possible.

The Envers du Plan glacier is still accessible (right bank). As for the lower part, following several route finding mistakes, the guardian has drawn up a small sketch for you (see photo below).

Dent du Requin & Aiguille Pierre Alain OK

People are still going up (and down) the Vallée Blanche!


Helbronner

Arête de Jetoula: snow approach to the start of the couloir. All dry. New tat on the abseil points. A little snow on the way to the summit of the Marbrées.

Rochefort-Jorasses traverse: Good general conditions. Access to the Salle à Manger is drying out, a few rockfalls after the 1st couloir.

Rochefort arête: very good conditions.

Pointe Young is dry except for the last 2 pitches where there is still a little snow (climbing with crampons). The couloir below the brèche de la Pointe Marguerite is full of snow. After Pointe Croz, it's all snow: a narrow ridge at first, then a bit easier. Descent via the normal route in good conditions.

Rochers de Reposoir: mixed (snow/rock). Glacier well filled-in with snow but a few large snow bridges to watch out for below the Reposoir. A few teams also on the Hirondelles arête.

Kuffner Arête: continues to dry out. A good refreeze is absolutely essential.

Aiguilles du Diable traverse: access couloir: snow at the bottom, rubble/snow at the top. Good conditions once on the ridge, then poor mixed conditions again on the exit to the Tacul.


Aiguille du Midi

Conditions remain good overall, but the route to Tacul - Maudit - Mont Blanc is becoming increasingly technical: it hasn't snowed recently and you need to be comfortable with cramponing. There are still a few ice blocks falling from the seracs on Tacul. Two ice axes may be useful for the Col du Mont Maudit (particularly on the descent if you want to avoid abseiling, as there is no fixed rope in place).

The traverse of the Vallée Blanche changes according to the snow bridges, but is still OK. 


Plan de l'Aiguille

Grutter: ice axes/crampons for the approach, then it's all dry!

Crampons still needed for access to the main sectors (Peigne, Pilier Rouge etc).

The Nantillons glacier is holding its own!

Crampons no longer needed for the Frête des Charmoz (dry descent).


Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

It's all dry from the Plan de l'Aiguille. You can cross the Jonction, you’ll just have to find the right way! A little snow as far as the refuge. Ice on the N ridge of the Dôme (take two ice axes). The plateaux route is also passable. Peace and quiet guaranteed. Climbing the N ridge and descending Trois Monts can be a great combo for those with the necessary skills.


Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

The "Sentier des Rognes" is still very snowy.

The conditions in the Goûter couloir are not changing in a good way: big runnels, rock falls during the day or when the freeze is poort. Watch this space! In any event, you'll have to get there early and be careful. It is possible (and advisable) to clip the cable by taking the lower route.

Above, the conditions are still good. The section on the N face around the crevasse on the Bosses ridge is fine.


Dômes de Miage/Bionnassay

Good conditions on Mont Tondu, the Aiguille de la Bérangère, the Dômes de Miage traverse (also fine as a there and back) and the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay. People on the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête, but no info at present. Two ice axes recommended for the Mettrier Arête. The summer path to the Conscrits hut is almost completely dry.


Gonella

Good conditions overall, but still exposed to seracs on one section. Ascent to the Col de Bionnassay fine.


Monzino

Still a little snow on the S ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.

Ratti-Vitale: access to the Freney Glacier via the col Brogliata (15m abseil), the glacier is easy and the bridges seem solid. Rimaye ok (big snow bollard). The route is dry.

The Col Eccles is easy to traverse.

A rockfall has affected the start of the Pilier d'Angle. A V+ pitch on the crest is necessary (good rock, a few pitons in place).

The climb up to the Eccles is still a good one (as long as it's not too warm)! Innominata possible when it refreezes.

It has snowed high up in recent thunderstorms (the Freney pillar looks very snowy, and a rope team was evacuated from Divine Providence for the same reason).

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 30 June 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 30 June 2023

Fine weather is favouring activity in the high mountains, but it's all drying out fairly quickly (little rainfall, hot weather).

The glaciers and rimayes are still going well overall. On the other hand, there has been a marked increase in rockfall over the last few days (Goûter couloir, Aiguille du Midi S face, Marbrées W face, Petit Flambeau, Grand Pilier d'Angle, Whymper couloir, Chardonnet N face, Purtscheller). You're going to have to start thinking carefully when choosing your routes and, above all, keep to schedule.

The window of opportunity is closing for the major routes, but today's snow could extend the deadline.


Le Tour

Not much has changed around here. As far as the access path is concerned, there are still one or two névés coming from Charamillon and then the snow slope below the refuge.

Above the refuge, you run into snow fairly quickly. The Col Supérieur du Tour is still easy.

Two rockslides on the S face of the Aiguille du Purtscheller cut off the normal route to the Aiguille du Tour (a route around the area has since been redone). These rockslides do not affect the Purtscheller S ridge.

Still a lot of people on the classics (Aiguille du Tour via the Table ridge and the normal route, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche).

The Forbes arête is still being climbed. The Migot spur is drying out more and more (rock falls in the lower section). The descent couloir is still covered in snow. The abseils start above the col Adams Reilly. The glacier below is still passable.


Argentière Glacier

The Plan Joran gondola will be opening continuously every day on Saturday 1 July.

Access to the refuge is still via the left bank and then by crossing to the right bank before the refuge. It is also possible to climb the ladders, but there is still snow.

The Whymper route and Glacier du Milieu (Aiguille d'Argentière) are still passable as is the Col du Tour Noir.

The Flèche Rousse ridge has dried out nicely, especially the access slope to the ridge (beware of rock falls, so arrive early). It's almost the end.

Arête du Jardin in very good condition (some snow for water supply).

Co du Tour Noir OK.

The Col des Cristaux is still snow-covered and possible (watch out for rock falls).

Tournier spur on the Droites in generally good condition. The key pitch after the Château is dry but can be bypassed by two pitches of IV+/V. Tricky route finding in the mixed ground at the top.

As announced last week, it's over for the Couturier. Apparently no-ones done the Grands Montets ridge (probably still snow on the northerly aspects).

The rock routes are all dry - tip top! 


Charpoua

Opening of the new Charpoua refuge on Saturday 1 July!

The bivouac sites around the Charpoua are still deep in snow and water. There is currently only one dry spot.

Access path: a few névés, including 2 steep ones under the west couloir of the Moine.

The Glacier de la Charpoua is currently well filled in. There are still some névés on the Drus, and there’s water streaming down the various routes on the south face. A team failed on the Trident route on the south face of the Grand Dru. There's still quite a bit of snow on the way to the Flammes de Pierre col (Drus traverse).

Several teams have returned from the American Direct, which is said to be in good condition at the moment.

Aiguille du Moine: 1 team up Sale Athée and 1 on the Druide route.

There’s climbing on the Flammes de Pierre. Access by the fixed ropes not good, to be avoided.


Talèfre Basin

No snow on the access path.

The normal route on the Moine has dried out nicely, with a few small névés left (but take your crampons with you all the way to the top).

The E face of Le Moine will be fine: rimaye OK, lower pitches dry, maybe a few névés that can be avoided.

Traversée Nonne-Evêque: OK, rasoir and descent dry, an abseil to pass the rimaye on the way down.

Conditions are deteriorating on the Whymper - Col Armand Charlet - and the Arête du Jardin start couloir. The rimaye is more and more open. A good refreeze is imperative, as is a good level of mountaineering.

The secondary Whymper couloir is dry: technical and rocky (be careful even on the descent). The rest of the route is well covered in snow.

Two pitches of gully after the rimaye on the Col Armand Charlet.

Arête du Jardin: tricky rimaye, snowy couloir, tricky descent!

Arête du Moine: dry at the bottom, very snowy at the top, no one there yet.

Normal route on the Droites: this is the end for the oblique couloir (gaping rimaye that can be bypassed by the rocks on the left IV, dry passages in the couloir). You must therefore take the original route via the slopes coming out of the Col des Droites. Climb to the eastern summit OK, good track. Lots of snow on the ridge + cornices. The abseil from the brèche is clear but there is a lot of sand (which damages the descenders).

It's drying out on the Courtes normal route and especially on the traverse (photo above). Be particularly careful on the descent into the couloir below the Aiguille Croulante, which continues to crumble.

Pointe Isabelle: OK, no ice, the large crevasse is still crossable on the left (1m step). 


Leschaux

"The snow has taken a serious beating! Dry rock: Pierre à Joseph, Petites Jorasses, Aiguille de Leschaux...

The Grandes Jorasses is slowly drying out, but we'll have to be patient for the Walker spur, otherwise there's no activity.

The Mont Mallet glacier has been tracked as far as the Brèche des Périades: nothing to report. 

The balcony path to the Couvercle is quite well traversed, with good tracks over the névés, but crampons and ice axes are useful in the morning.

Petites Jorasses, Anouk route: third pitch has partly collapsed but it's not too much of a problem. Still wet in places.

Contamine route in great conditions, all dry.


Envers des Aiguilles

There’s climbing everywhere!

Grepon-Mer de Glace: The rimaye goes well to the right as does the passage to get back onto the rock. Sometimes there's a bit of snow on the ledges, but it doesn't get in the way. Watch out for the snow banks when crossing to the left at the Tour Rouge: "On Wednesday, one broke off above us at around 6am". Descent via the Nantillons glacier: a bit of ice at the top, but the glacier runs smoothly. The rocks are starting to fall (descend early).

A few teams on the normal route of the Aiguille de la République. More gas at the Tour Rouge hut! Warning: 10m missing from the bottom of the fixed ropes leading to the hut.

The arête Ryan has been climbed (two ice axes required). The approach from the Requin is fine with a good freeze. More snow in the couloir then dry rock. Descent from Aiguille du Plan to Requin in good condition.


Requin Hut

Dry rock and ascent of the VB still OK! 


Helbronner

Few changes in the area. Still a lot of people on the classics.

Dent du Géant / Rochefort arête: the climb to the Salle à Manger is drying out, so be careful not to be too late and be careful in the dry sections. A bit of ice on the Rochefort ridge but fixed rope in place.

Still no one on the Jorasses traverse. Teams on the Hirondelles arête with a descent via the normal route, but no further information.

Marbrées and Aiguilles d'Entrêves traverse: lots of people and lots of activity in the sector! "Marbrées, full traverse, small rockfall (3m x 2m?) below the South summit at the foot of the cracks, just below the bolt and ring. It's still Ok but earthy... At the foot of the classic abseils, a tower is also moving near the rimaye right bank".

There was also a rockfall on the Petit Flambeau, but this did not affect the routes.

Tour Ronde: the end of the Gervasutti couloir. No news from the N face except that there's more ice. Full SE ridge and Freshfield col still OK. The winter “normal route" is no longer recommended (boulder falls)!

Kuffner arête: the rimaye is deteriorating (1.5-2 m very steep) and is not expected to last very long. It has dried a lot below the Androsace, but conditions are better above. Be careful, the track passed right over the cornice in several places a few days ago.

Crossing the Arêtes du Diable: Good conditions but lots of (too many?) people.

Climbing on the satellites is fine.

The traverse of the Vallée Blanche is still OK.


Aiguille du Midi

Still lots of people on the Trois Monts (read a review here). However, frequent serac falls on Thursday afternoon at the top of the Tacul (photo below) cut the route.

Lots of people on the Cosmiques arête. Pointes Lachenal: it's better to go around the final chimney to the right.

The goulottes du Triangle (Negri, Grisolle, Chéré) are still possible, with ice here and there.

The Midi-Plan ridge is in good condition but it is better to start from the refuge. If you use the first lift, it's very (too) soft on the way back (small slides). The descent to the Requin via the Envers du Plan glacier is still going well.

We get a tan on the S faces (Lachenal, Eperon des Cosmiques, Aiguille du Midi). Lots of rock fall on the south face couloirs.

The Gervasutti pillar has been climbed, with good conditions in the upper mixed section for the time being, but watch out when the going gets tough (every year many teams are rescued!). 


Plan de l'Aiguille

This time it's all over for the Mallory.

Frendo still ok. Right and left exits possible.

Aiguille du Peigne: crampons and ice axe still needed for the approach. Arête des Papillons and Lépidoptères dry. Normal route: 60m of snow in the couloir below the brèche.

Normal route on the Aiguille des Pélerins: dry rock, some névés not a problem, crampons and ice axe necessary for the approach.

Pilier Rouge de Blaitière: still névé for access, crampons useful in the morning.

Charmoz-Grepon has been done. Good conditions, a little snow in places. Glacier des Nantillons: a bit of outcropping ice at the top, otherwise the glacier goes well. The stones are starting to fall (descend early).

Aiguille de l'M: crampons still necessary. The Couzy route is a little damp.


Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

There are still a few motivated skiers but its ski carrying from the Plan de l'Aiguille to almost the Jonction (follow the summer path). Go early. It's also possible on foot and the refuge is much less crowded than those of the VN or the Cosmiques).

The junction is still OK at the bottom but the route changes quickly, with several unwelcoming snow bridges.

Arête N: two passages in ice, a fairly long one at the bottom and a shorter one at the top.


Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

Remember, don't walk through the tunnels, take the path.

The path up to Tête Rousse is well cleared of snow. Conditions in the couloir have deteriorated: large gully + rock falls. You need to get there early (also on the way back). The cable is in place. Be careful, a large boulder hangs from the end of a cable (photo below). Good conditions thereafter.

Miage / Bionnassay

Ascent to Durier ok, leave early.

It feels like the end for the Mettrier ridge via the variant (rimaye). Full ascent still possible (gravel at the bottom, top still fairly well covered with snow).

Very good conditions on the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay!

"The Refuge des Conscrits is in summer mode! Access via the summer path is almost dry, there are only a few snowdrifts left in the combes (be careful in the morning if there is a good refreeze), and the flowers and marmots are out in force! For mountaineers, conditions are very good on the routes in the sector."


Gonella

Access to the refuge: the fixed ropes and anchors are badly damaged.

The track on the right bank under the Aiguille Grises calotte is very exposed to falling seracs (in fact the track passes through the debris). For the time being, we can go over to the left bank but we have to cross large snow bridges.

The access couloir to the Quintino Sella was still in good condition on 26/06.


Monzino

Climbing on the Croux and the Punta Innominata! A team climbed Ratti-Vitale without any further information, but looks like lots of snow.

Above, it's very hot. Get there early to climb to the Eccles (it's already soft at 10AM). Glacier OK, but watch out for the rimaye below the bivouac. 

Some teams climbed the Innominata in good conditions: good track, stone fall risk at the bottom so leave very early.

Freney pillar and the red pillar of the Brouillard pillar (downclimb from the bivouac, glacier OK).

Bonatti-Oggioni: The 6a+ first pitch is dry. The original start is wet. There's some ice in the 5c crack of pitch 8, but it doesn't hinder the climbing and you can place ice screws. Lots of snow (soft because you can't get there early) on the exit ridge: prefer days with low altitude isotherm.

Brouillard ridge looks untracked. Aiguille Blanche, Grand Pilier d'Angle and Arête de Peuterey tracked from the Eccles with a bivouac at the col de Peuterey (here too it is essential to get to the summit early). Peuterey integral has apparently been done (no further information).


Aiguilles Rouges

Crampons and ice axes are often necessary for the approaches to the Aiguilles Rouges.

It's all dry for climbing on the Brévent or the Aiguille de Mesure.

As a reminder, due to work in the landslide zone beneath the Brévent, the area is off-limits (read the decree). For your own safety and that of the workers (falling rocks), please do not climb in the area!

No crampons are required to cross the Perrons.

For hiking information, see our latest update here!

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 22 June 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 22 June 2023

Some bits and bobs of news before the sun comes back this weekend.

As a reminder, the basic rule in the high mountains is not to start on routes when the weather is poor (wind, bad visibility). The PGHM rescuers were "surprised" to see a lot of activity on Mont Blanc (Trois Monts, Gonella) and Bionnassay with the bad weather over the last few days.

A few days of SW wind have certainly stripped off some snow.

The first two photographs (above and below), provided by the Leschaux guardians, are very telling.

The refreeze has been very, very bad and the snowpack has taken a beating in some places, which may have made some sections worse or more technical. It could snow or rain this Thursday on a snowpack that's already very wet, which could lead to special conditions over the next few days (poor snow consolidation).

Let's hope that the refreezing improves quickly so that we can get back to snow routes.

We're entering a period where we'll have to watch out for snow bridges on the glaciers and start looking out for the risk of rockfall.


Le Tour / Trient

There’s still snow on the way up to the Albert 1er refuge. The Trient hut has been renovated and is waiting for you!

The classic routes are all being enjoyed in good conditions: Aiguille du Tour (no more Couloir de la Table, Arête de la Table OK, Voie Normale via Col Supérieur du Tour OK), Tête Blanche (Voie Normale, no news about the N face), Petite Fourche (Voie Normale). The S ridge of the Purtscheller is dry. The Dorées traverse is well-travelled (the Copt Couloir is no longer doable). A 40m abseil on a dead man (in situ) to cross the Col Blanc on the Trient side.

There's also activity on the Chardonnet when the weather permits.

Forbes Arête (info from 18/06): Good route up to the “bosse". A bit of ice on the bosse but OK with 1 ice axe. Lots of snow on the arête: good progress but difficult to protect. Poor conditions over the last few days with no refreeze: soft snow on the arête, serious.

Migot Spur: Still being done but getting worse. Rimaye looks OK but icy higher up.

The Escarra and Charlet-Bettembourg goulottes are drying out.

Descent /Voie Normale: Good conditions, last I heard only 1 abseil of 25 m on bolts to pass the rimaye, otherwise it's possible to down climb but it could change quickly. 


Argentière Glacier

Until the Plan Joran lift opens on 1 July (every day), access to Plan Joran is possible from Monday to Friday by arriving at 8am sharp. Descent at 4.30pm. Ski passes must be purchased from the on-site ticket machines.

Access to the refuge is still possible via the glacier (most teams pass first along the left bank and then along the right bank, which is covered in snow), but beware of crevasses. Another option is via the ladders, which have been cleared of snow, but there is still a lot of snow afterwards. Follow the yellow dots until you see the glacier. Then traverse 200-300m to the right and descend to the glacier over névé. The classic passage under the Rognons moraine is too snowy and steep for the moment.

Glacier du Milieu: OK if it refreezes well, all snow, 20m of ice at the “narrows" above the rimaye, hard snow at the top.

Arête du Jardin (Aiguille d'Argentière): still a bit of snow (and therefore water!) but it's still a bit early. A window of opportunity is sure to open very soon!

Flèche Rousse: a few passages that are drying out but OK.

End of the day for the Y-shaped couloir (Aiguille d'Argentière).

Col du Tour Noir : OK

Nobody on the N faces of the basin and it seems to be over already...

There were still a few climbers a short while ago, but it's the end of the road for the Couturier, which has been washed away over the last few days (400m of ice).

As for rock, it's all dry but access is snowy and often steep (crampons + ice axe). 


Charpoua / Couvercle / Leschaux

A team did the traverse of Les Drus last weekend, but there's still a bit too much snow (same on the N face). The right window of opportunity should be opening soon!

The path up to the Couvercle is almost dry (there is still a névé at the foot of the Moine). On the other hand, you'll need crampons, ice axe and mountaineering experience to continue towards the Leschaux hut (descent to the Talèfre glacier and steep, snowy couloir before Leschaux).

S ridge (+integral) of the Aiguille du Moine is dry. However, don't forget your crampons and ice axe as, despite appearances, the normal route is still very snowy (and quite technical in these conditions). No activity on the Contamine yet, but from what I can see: rimaye OK, first and second pitches dry. The rest of the route is likely to be a bit snowier.

There's still a lot of snow on the Nonne - Evêque traverse (both on the ridge and on the descent paths), so no one's out there yet. A high skill level will be needed for those considering the route.

It's far too early for the Moine ridge on the Verte. The rimayes from the Whymper to the Col Armand Charlet - access couloir to the Jardin ridge are still OK, but they're getting bigger!

Whymper: lower bit of the couloir is “mixed", then main couloir: snow. Summit ridge in good conditions.

There and back to the Grande Rocheuse is fine.

Col Armand Charlet: same as Whymper, mixed at the bottom then snow to the col.

Arête du Jardin: good conditions if there is a good freeze (although the rimaye may change). Couloir is full of snow. Chimney below the ridge is dry. Arête well covered with snow (best if the snow is frozen, more complicated if not).

Droites normal route : the rimaye in the oblique couloir is a little high but still passable (some rock outcrops in the couloir itself). Otherwise, the classic route is fine. Above, the mixed section can be "scary" depending on the conditions as it is very snowy. Watch out for a track that goes round to the right (more technical mixed route). Rappels for the descent OK with 2x50m.

Les Courtes (there and back): OK if good refreeze, good crampon technique needed for the descent in the passage under the Col des Droites (it's steep!). Some teams on the traverse, but you have to keep to schedule and get up early (wake up at midnight in the refuge!). The descent via the Col des Cristaux goes well (snow). On the traverse, the snow is often softer (hence the importance of keeping to schedule).

Pointe Isabelle: good conditions, although many teams bail at the large crevasse below the serac (which can be impressive) or on the plateau (running out of time).

Not much changing at the Leschaux hut. The hot spell signals the end of the mixed climbing on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses (see photo above). For snow routes, there has to be a freeze (Brèche des Périades tracked; glacier du Mont Mallet filled in but keep an eye on your watch). South couloir of the Aiguille de l'Eboulement with a descent of the normal route done in good conditions. Routes behind the hut are dry. The west face of the Petites Jorasses may be in condition soon (still a bit of snow here and there). The glacier approach looks OK. 


Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

There is still snow to reach the Envers hut (watch out for the "snow bridges" which are easy to cross). There’s climbing on the lower crags (crampons and ice axe for the approaches): Aiguille de Roc, Tour Rouge, Tour Verte... A team did the voie normale of the Aiguille de la République (cross rimaye well to the right then traverse to the left, a little snow on the ledges). Descent via the République Bananière abseils (too much snow to be climbed at the moment).

No news from the Grépon-Mer de Glace but here too the right window of opportunity is looming (probably still snowy though). No attempt at the Ryan, so no news! A team failed on the S face of the Fou, but we have no further information.

For the moment, you go up to the Requin via the right bank.

A few climbers have come down from the Midi-Plan. The ascent of the vallée blanche is still fine, with a bit of crevasse dodging. The rock has dried well, and the first climbers are expected this weekend!


Helbronner

Still a lot of people on the classics: Rochefort arête, Dent du Géant, traverses of Marbrées and Aiguilles d'Entrêves.

With the warm spell, things are changing, but not for the better on the N face and the Gervasutti couloir (rimaye) on the Tour Ronde. The SE ridge is still passable when the freeze is right.

The Kuffner is still a popular route, and the procession takes place on days when the weather is favourable: "Good access couloir with 2 rocky passages. Quite a few large unstable boulders at the first rock bastion! L'Androsace goes very well".

The Aiguilles du Diable traverse still has a long way to go (we'll have to see if it snows again in today's thunderstorms).

There’s climbing on the satellites (rimayes OK). Crossing the vallée blanche still OK (for the time being!). 


Aiguille du Midi

A bit less snow here too... Ice is appearing in the Triangle du Tacul. With a good freeze, Contamine-Negri; Contamine-Grisolle; Contamine-Mazeau; Chéré are all possible.

Still some activity on the Trois Monts. It rained at the Cosmiques hut, so we'll probably have to be careful on the Tacul and have good crampon skills. Mont Maudit is still going well (a bit of ice above the rimaye). Two abseils (30 then 45m) on the descent from the Col du Mont Maudit are best (dead man needed).

Some activity on the Lachenal traverse (50m rope sufficient for abseiling, a belay has been added) as well as on the Cosmiques ridge and Midi-Plan.

Rock climbing remains a safe bet around here!


Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

The Mallory has come to an end. It's very soft and, above all, the snow is gradually giving way to passages of (bad) rock.

If we find good refreezing conditions (for the approach and the exit), the Frendo should still be possible (rock sometimes wet). Lots of ice on the left exit. A good pitch of black ice as you exit to the right to find the snow slope below the arête.

Crampons and ice axe are still required to access the rock routes in the area.

Peigne: the Papillons ridge is dry, there's still snow in the couloir below point 3009 and a bit of snow on the quartz ledge. It's too early to consider the Peigne - Pélerins - Plan traverse. No information about the Grutter.

There’s climbing on the red pillar of the Blaitière and the Aiguille de l'M (frêtes des Charmoz, NE ridge, Couzy, normal route...) or the Petits Charmoz. No information yet on the Cordier pillar.


Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

It smells like the end! The quality of the skiing is no longer guaranteed, but it's worth checking out!

More and more portage from Plan de l’Aiguille. The Jonction has changed a lot and needs to be re-tracked; the lower track seems to be a better option.

There is more and more ice on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter. 


Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

The snow is melting gradually on the way up to the Tête Rousse and you now go up via the summer path. You can still descend via the névés on the right bank of the Bionnassay glacier.

The Goûter couloir is still full of snow, but a large gully has formed in its centre as a result of slides caused by the severe thaw (see photo 2). It is currently difficult to traverse.

The cable should be replaced on Friday by the guides from St Gervais. Good conditions above.


Miage / Bionnassay

Some teams heading for the Tricot Arête , watch this space!

Mettrier Arête: access to the ridge via the variant route (see last update) now includes a 25m gravel passage in the middle of the couloir. Otherwise, you will have to do the “integrale” (and again, you'll be wandering through some not-so-great rock at the bottom). The rest of the ridge is mixed (snow/rock) but no ice.

The ascent to the Durier via Plan Glacier and the Miage glacier goes well, you just have to be careful not to be too late.

With a good freeze , with no 100km/h winds or fog, the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay is in good condition (no ice or cornices).

The Conscrits footbridge is in place, but there are still some exposed snow patches. The ascent via the Mauvais Pas and then the left bank as indicated in our last update is still going well. No major changes in sight for the routes in the sector. The route on the Trè la Tête glacier will change depending on the crevasses. Good conditions on the Dômes de Miages traverse. The descent to the refuge from the top of the Aiguille de la Bérangère is still made easier by the snow.


Gonella / Monzino

Mont Blanc via Gonella: No change since our last update.

Eperon de la Tournette climbed in good conditions.

Little change around the Monzino. The rock routes (Innominata, Croux) are accessible if there is a decent freeze. Teams have climbed to the Eccles via the glacier to continue on the Innominata ridge (information on C2C).

The Bonnatti-Oggioni to the Pilier Rouge may still be covered in snow (Gabarrou-Long and Anneaux Magiques, which are steeper, should be OK). It's also a bit early for the Freney pillar.

The S ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey is dry. The window of opportunity is closing for the complete climb!


Aiguilles Rouges

In the Aiguilles Rouges, crampons and an ice axe are often useful for approaches and descents!

For all the latest news about walking, check out our dedicated news page.

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 16 June 2023

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 16 June 2023

Autumn is just around the corner! Oops no! There's summer first :)


Hiking and Trail Walking 

With most of the valley's ski lifts now open, the hiking season is well under way! Most routes are now accessible, with the exception of those at the highest altitudes. 

Although the snowpack is gradually melting in the mid-range mountains, there is still plenty of snow above 2,200/23,00m on the south-facing slopes and 2,000/2,100m on the north-facing slopes. Good boots, crampons, poles and a good mountaineering head are essential if you want to climb safely above these altitudes! Good navigation skills are all the more essential when the paths are obscured by snow.

The following are NOT yet accessible (except for the most experienced among you):

- Lac du Brévent - Lac Cornu / Lac Noir - Lac Bleu
- The Albert 1er refuge
- Le Buet
- La Jonction
- Le Brévent and the col du Brévent

More information about the Tour du Mont Blanc and hiking in general here.

___


As is often the case at this time of year (lots of snow, short nights), activity in the high mountains is highly dependent on refreezing conditions (which in turn depend on the presence of wind or clouds during the night...).


Tré-la-Tête / Miage / Bionnassay

The Conscrits hut can still be accessed via the glacier, but it is not advisable to climb up the snow slope on the right bank (on the left as you climb up): the torrent flows strongly underneath and the snow bridge becomes fragile. Instead, you need to head rightwards to reach the left bank of the glacier (see illustration below). The summer footbridge should be in place this weekend. There are still good conditions on most of the routes in the area (traverse of the Dômes, Tré-la-Tête traverse, etc.)

The Plan Glacier and Durier huts have also got their season off to a good start. A slight change of route on the classic Mettrier ridge (see image below). The intégrale could be considered! The direct ascent to the Durier is not recommended in the afternoon, because of the numerous purges from mid-day onwards. With a good freeze, conditions will be good on the Durier - Bionnassay - Goûter traverse. 

Monzino

The refuge opens today! Access is almost dry (a 10m section of névé with a handrail in place that should melt quickly). Crampons are still useful if you are coming from the Col des Chasseurs.
Here too there is a lot of snow at altitude and the activity depends on the refreezing. The Aiguille Croux and the Punta Innominata (crampons and ice axe needed for the approaches) are possible.
No one has climbed to the Eccles yet. It's too early for the Ratti-Vitale on the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. On the other hand, we're all set for the S ridge.


Mont Blanc

On the Italian side, the Gonella refuge is open and there's snow halfway up the Miage glacier. The normal Italian route is in good condition: good refreezing, good tracks, the glacier passes well.

There was snow on the exit to the Col des Aiguilles Grises. The Piton des Italiens ridge is in good condition (not too narrow, no ice). Some teams headed for the Tournette spur, but no further information!

On the French side, the Tramway du Mont Blanc is inaugurating its new trains this weekend! There will be 3 mountaineering shuttles a day to and from the Nid d'Aigle (reservations must be made in the refuge): see the timetable here, under the mountaineering shuttles tab. Some additional information, to be confirmed: "The shuttle will stop between the two tunnels at the paravalanche. Take the path outside the last tunnel, then a new path in the moraine above the track work (start next to the old TMB chalet, follow the cairns)".

Otherwise, there are good conditions on the classic French routes (voie normale via the Aiguille du Goûter, Trois Monts, Grands Mulets/arête N du Dôme). On the last-mentioned route (on foot and skis), be careful at the Jonction: the glacier is gradually opening up.


Plan de l'Aiguille / Aiguille du Midi

Things are starting to happen around the Plan de l'Aiguille, with teams heading for the Aiguille de l'M (dry NNE ridge, couloir de la Bûche + approach and descent in snow) or the Papillons ridge (crampons and ice axe required).

Some keen climbers got their boots out on the W face of Blaitière, but unsurprisingly it's still quite wet!

Regular ascents of the Mallory-Porter, in good conditions. The window of opportunity for the Frendo Spur will open soon, but a good refreeze is essential: many of the teams failed last week...

Higher up around the Aiguille du Midi, no significant change in the sector since last week's update. 


Helbronner

The Vallée Blanche has a good track. The classics of the sector are widely climbed when the refreeze permits:

- Arêtes de Rochefort in good conditions. It's too early to consider crossing the Jorasses.
- Dent du Géant ok but there's still a bit of snow and in particular névé on the second pitch.
- Traverse of the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrêves: Okay
- Tour Ronde via Freshfield or the full SE ridge okay, Gervasutti okay too. A rock fall on the left side of the N face, but apparently it's still possible to climb it.
- Daily teams on the Kuffner arete (see the cahier de course).
- A few teams on the Aiguilles du Diable traverse. Rimaye and access couloir OK. There's quite a bit of snow on the rock, so crampons stay on a lot.
- Satellites du Tacul: all the rimayes are fine! Probably a bit more snow on the terraces of the Suisse/O Sole Mio routes (Grand Capucin). 


Requin / Envers des Aiguilles 

The Requin hut is open! The ascent of the Vallée Blanche has been done! The Envers du Plan glacier too! The rock looks dry (Chapeau à Corne ridge, Aiguille de Pierre-Alain, still névé on the descent of the Dent du Requin but probably not a problem).

The refuge de l'Envers is also opening this weekend! The lower sectors are in good condition: Tours Rouge and Verte, the first Pointe des Nantillons... There's still quite a bit of snow on the upper slopes.


Leschaux / Talèfre / Charpoua Basins

The Mer de Glace balcony path as far as Couvercle is virtually dry: only a steep and exposed 10-metre section of névé remains to be crossed. Watch out for the last snow slope just below the refuge! There's still a lot of snow on the balcony path as far as Leschaux, so crampons and ice axe are a must! Alternatively, you can get to the refuge - which opens this weekend - without stepping foot in the snow, via the Leschaux glacier!

The snow routes around Les Périades and the Aiguille de l'Eboulement are in good condition, when the freeze is right, of course. Visually, the west face of the Petites Jorasses is dry! Headlamps have been spotted on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses, a matter to be followed up...

A few teams on the Courtes traverse with good conditions overall, although there are still a few small cornices. No news from the Droites for a few days, but there are still a lot of people on the Verte and especially on the Whymper. The rimaye has changed over the last few days (see photo below) and the first couloir is increasingly bottlenecked with stones sticking out, but it's still going well. The Jardin ridge is still waiting for some motivated people to clear it! 

The Charpoua refuge is still under construction. Opening planned for 29 June if all goes well!


Argentière Basin

The refuge is open! Plan Joran lift: one lift at 7.45am and one lift down at 4.30pm. The gondola will run continuously from 1 July. On the N side of the Verte, the Couturier is in good condition (of course, you need to get to the top very early). For snow routes a little further afield, the Col du Tour Noir and the Pointe Supérieure des Améthystes are in good condition. On the Aiguille d'Argentière, climbing the glacier du Milieu requires experience of steep snow slopes (40°). The Flèche Rousse ridge is in good condition and most of the rock routes around the refuge are dry!


Le Tour

The access paths from Charamillon and les Autannes still have steep névé: they are therefore reserved for mountaineers equipped with crampons and ice axe! Otherwise, not much has changed up here: most of the snow routes are in good condition, particularly the classics in the Aiguille du Tour sector (normal route, arête de la table), Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche.

Good conditions also on the Aiguille du Chardonnet. Some teams on the Forbes arete, although the large quantities of snow sometimes limit the possibilities for protection. The ice is not far away at the top of La Bosse, ice screw placement possible. The Migot spur is also crowded. The access ramp after the rimaye is made of loose rock: make sure you space your teams well apart and don't climb below each other on this passage to avoid unpleasant surprises! Otherwise, the conditions are still good higher up. The Charlet-Bettembourg gully is being done in good conditions. The normal descent is still well covered in snow, but you should plan a 25m abseil to get past the rimaye.

The Trient hut is open! No information on the Aiguilles Dorées traverse. We'll have to climb on the S face instead.


Aiguilles Rouges 

With the opening of the ski lifts, the climbing season in the massif has begun! Most of the routes are dry, but you'll need to bring crampons and ice axe for the approaches!

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.