The anticyclone has waited until winter to come back! Even though the days are getting shorter and shorter, it's nice to be able to enjoy this late Indian summer.

 

This is an opportunity to give you some brief information on the eve of the long weekend.

 

 

All high and “moyenne” mountain huts are now closed, with the exception of the Torino hut (closing this Sunday, November 4).

 

As far as lifts are concerned, now is the time to take advantage of the Montenvers train (free all weekend) and the Aiguille du Midi, which will close this Sunday. The Flégère gondola will remain open until November 11.

 

Hiking offers incredible colours and contrasts at the moment. There's no snow below 3,000m, so everything's going well. Bear in mind that all the refuges and most of the ski lifts are closed. For those planning to bivouac, the nights are cool (frost is forecast right down to the valley floor), so pack a good sleeping bag! In general, remember to pack warm clothes (it's hot in the sun, but it cools off quickly!)

 

High mountain activity has picked up! The bad weather of late summer/early autumn has given the mountains a chance to recover. The glaciers are relatively well filled in, but beware of the potentially still fragile snow bridges (ditto for the rimayes). We're still able to get around fairly well on foot. The faces, couloirs and gullies are on the whole well filled, even if it's sometimes unconsolidated snow/sugar and little ice.

 

Around the Aiguille du Midi, the N face of Le Tacul was retracked yesterday (steeper and more technical than usual, especially on the descent, keep right to avoid the ice). Not very attractive for skiing.

 

Midi-Plan looks tracked as far as the Rognon! Excellent conditions on the Cosmiques arête!

 

On the triangle du Tacul the Chéré, Perroux, Infidèle are all being climbed, on the Lachenal, Pellissier and M6 Solar are in good condition. One team found the right window for the Afanassief-Bodin (report in our logbook). Modica-Noury with summit exit also in good conditions (previous attempts had resulted in a difficult rimaye). Pinocchio also climbed, with lots of snow but little protection. No information on the more distant goulottes, but don't hesitate to check them out to avoid overcrowding. In this respect, the Simond shelter looks set to be packed for the weekend.

 

The south face of the Aiguille du Midi and the eperon des Cosmiques (mixed exit!) can be climbed again.

 

Good conditions on the traverse of the Dômes de Miage from the Aiguille de la Bérangère. Ditto on the Bionnassay traverse. The Conscrits footbridge will be dismantled (entirely) in the course of next week.

 

The Mont Blanc normal route via the Aiguille du Goûter is seeing traffic (particularly in alpine/paragliding combo). Snow starts at the Tête Rousse. Good snow conditions for the ascent of the Goûter and for the rest of the route (no information on the passage of the mauvais arête).

 

Moulin "de la caméra” on the Mer de Glace is still dangerous (cracked and threatening ice blade).

 

Teams on the Colton MacIntyre on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses: couic snow (squeaky snow!), little ice in the gullies, inconsistent snow in the mixed exit section. An attempt on Rêve Ephémère was abandoned after the first pitch (inconsistent snow and bad ice). Descent via the couloir on the left bank of the serac. Reminder: Mont Blanc tunnel closed!

 

No news from the Couvercle sector (Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte) or the Argentière basin, but we're keen to hear from you!

 

The Le Tour glacier basin is busy. Access to the Albert 1er refuge is snow free. The Aiguille du Tour normal route is busy, but we have no further information. Several teams on the Migot spur, said to be in good condition (some descent belays hidden under the snow). Watch out for crevasses on the approach and descent below Col Adam Reilly!

 

Don't hesitate to send us your trip reports!

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.