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Report 31st May 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 31/05/2019

An update for the last day in May.

There have been only minor changes to the conditions in the high mountain. The weather front last Tuesday put down about 30cms of snow at 3500m. Apart from near the Pointe Helbronner, snowshoes are recommended in order to reach the routes, (and especially for the way back.)  

In the mid mountain, the snow is slowly going but is still restricting hiking. For those wishing to do the trails still under snow, you will need a good basis in mountain craft, (including navigation skills) and foresee crampons, ice axe and snowshoes.

The huts, both high and mid mountain, are beginning to open for the summer season and so their approaches are slowly becoming easier.  

Tour Sector

The Albert 1er hut opens on the 1^st June. The approach is by the moraine, alpinists only as there is still too much snow for hikers.  The moraine is free of snow up to 2200m but one can start using skis a little lower. The ski conditions higher up merit the hour of carrying them. There is a walking track towards the Col Supérieur du Tour, and there was a party on the Migot Spur on Friday, (ski approach, no further info.)

Argentière Sector

The lifts and huts are due to open on the 15th June. It is possible to start using skis at around 1700m on the Pierre à Ric (the track has not yet been cleared of snow). The Couturier was done on 30/05. The ski classics in the area look to be feasible, (Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu, Col du Tour Noir, Col des Cristaux, Courtes NE face.)  No recent information about the mixed routes, which are still very dry.

Talèfre Sector (hut open)

Little change since the last update. The approach is still by Egralets, start early and take care on the moraine at the foot of the ladders.  The Whymper on the Verte, the normal routes on the Droites and Courtes and the Pointe Isabelle are in condition. There is still a lot of snow on the ridge routes.

Aiguille du Midi

Here also there is little change in conditions. Snowshoes or skis not strictly necessary for routes close to the cable car station.

The Triangle du Tacul is popular, (Contamine-Negri, Contamine-Grisolle, Contamine-Mazeaud, no further info; Chéré reported to be in good condition).

The normal route on the Tacul is tracked both on foot and by ski. The usual “normal route” on the Maudit is blocked by an impressive serac barrier. Is was done on Friday, by some technical climbing to the left of the face, (a small mixed gully between the rocks.)  Another solution could be to go via the E ridge, (exit of the Kufner).  In all cases, an ascent is going to be much harder and longer than usual, 2 axes recommended.

No problems for the Cosmiques Ridge and the Pointes Lachenal.

The Mallory Porter was skied on 30/05 but has not been climbed recently.  The Eugster Diagonale was climbed on 31/05.

The rock routes still have a lot of snow on the ledges and terraces.  However, since Thursday, there have been some parties on the Cosmiques Spur and with the rise in temperature, the S faces (Aiguille du Midi, Lachenal), are expected to come into condition soon.

Helbronner Sector

The classics in this sector are in good condition, with tracks to the starts of Dent du Géant, Marbrées and Aiguille d'Entrêves traverses, Aiguille de Toule and Tour Ronde. Snowshoes or skis are not essential but may be useful on the way back.

Good conditions for the N Face and the Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde. However, the normal “winter” route is not recommended, (unstable boulders), one needs to go via the Col Freshfield.

The Kuffner has been done, no further info.

There have been some parties on the Dent du Géant, no further info, (still with snow.)  There has been nobody recently on the Rochefort Ridge, which looks to be feasible.  

The snow is slowly clearing from the satellite rock climbs. It is still a bit too early for the Diable Ridge.  

Grands-Mulets

Generally good conditions.

The Jonction still goes on ski. To repeat, an early start to go up to the hut is essential and think about spending a second night on the way down, if already late.

The N ridge of the Dôme is in good condition and popular, (about 50 people on Friday morning.)

The N face has been skied, both on the right and left sides.

Dômes de Miage Sector

Spring conditions here also, skis or snowshoes recommended.

The hut approach is by the Mauvais Pas and the glacier. The summer path is not feasible.  

The N faces now have a snow cover, (i.e. white not grey). There was a party on the Lex Blanche on Friday and another foreseen for the Aiguille de Tré-la-Tête on Saturday, no further info.

The Dômes traverse and the Aiguille de la Bérangère are in good condition.  

Hiking

The snow is slowly going but the trails at altitude, including the multi day routes, are not yet feasible.  This is true for the Tour du Mont Blanc, which still has a lot of snow, (e.g. Col du Bonhomme is still being skied )

Some suggestions: Aiguillette des Houches, Bellachat hut, (there and back from Chamonix), Alpage de Blaitière, Montenvers via the Mottets snack bar (open), Tête de Prapator via the Chapeau chalet (open,) Aiguillette des Posettes, Loriaz chalet.

Report 23 May 2019

Some information for this weekend.

We find ourselves in two seasons, Spring in the valley and Winter/Spring up in the mountains, a situation typical for Chamonix in May.  Quite a lot of snow fell this winter at mid altitudes which, together with the very little sunshine and cooler than average temperatures in April and May, means the snow is taking a long time to disappear.  

For example, it is still possible to ski in the Berard Valley, with the snow down to 15 minutes above the cascade.

This makes things awkward for hikers as there is still a lot of snow above 1700/2000m. This is not just snow patches but rather whole valleys remain under snow making paths and waymarks invisible.   There is often a need to break trail in deep snow with also a danger of slipping/falling in places.  The mountain lakes are not yet accessible and remain under snow, as are the Grand Balcon paths

.

Little has changed since the update of May 10th. Below is a selection of recommended hikes with great views.

- Lac Vert

- Alpage de Charousse

- Chalets de Chailloux (snow below the Aiguillette des Houches)

- Alpage de Blaitière Dessous

- Rocher des Mottets (possible to continue up to Montenvers.  Do not go up to Montenvers by the Caillet path.)  

- Buvette du Chapeau and viewpoint.

- Petits Balcons north and south, Buvette de la Floria (open),

- Chalets de Loriaz from Le Couteray (snow on leaving the forest)

- Aiguillette des Posettes starting from Tré le Champ.

Do not forget to check on the Chamoniarde site for which paths have been closed  (avis de fermeture e) and especially those in the Flegere sector, (secteur Flégère ).

Tour du Mont Blanc

As is normal for this time of the year, it is still too early for hiking.  There is no evidence of hikers in the Chapieu valley yet, only skiers

In the high mountain we are between seasons, most of the lifts and huts are closed.   There is too much snow unless using snowshoes or skis, which then need carried when lower down . The weather windows have been rare and often brief.  The good news is that the snow that fell last weekend, (without wind and between 50 and 70cm depending on the altitude) has stuck to the ice and rock, leading to a start in the improvement in conditions for mixed routes.

Tour Sector:  The approach to the Albert 1er hut is by the moraine path.  The upper part of the Migot Spur is dry and the Forbes Ridge has a lot of snow since the last storm.  The Aiguille du Tour, Tete Blanche etc. are feasible.

Argentière Sector

- Aiguille d'Argentière, Glacier du Milieu has ski tracks, (no more info.)  

- Col des Cristaux, NE Face of the Courtes look to be skiable.

- Couturier does not appear to have any recent tracks.

Couvercle  Sector (hut open )

To reach the hut, it is no longer feasible to go by the Pierre à Bérenger and the CentralCouloir. The new approach, (shared with the Charpoua hut) crosses too many gullies which have not purged yet. All that remains is the Egralets route, which still has a lot of snow.  It would appear best to take a rounabout route to the left to reach the foot of the ladders.

Below is information taken from the hut Facebook site before the last storm, (no activity since, the faces and gullies are well purged) :

For the 2019 season: “the Couvercle hut will open on 1st June and close on 15th September.  The hut will be renovated to meet modern building standards and offer better conditions for the alpinistes and wardens and to make it more eco-friendly.  The work is due to start mid-September, assuming the planning permission is obtained."

Concerning the routes in this sector, the two main objectives are the Whymper on the Verte and the Pointe Isabella.  Conditions are OK with a good snow cover since the recent snowfalls.  The bergschrund on the Whymper is crossed on the true left, though it is starting to open up. For the Pointe Isabella, the crevasses are filled in.

Some parties on the Droites and the Courtes but there is a lot of snow high up and bare ice on the N faces.

Aiguille du Midi Sector (Cosmiques hut open):

- Cosmiques Arete, Pointes Lachenal, Triangle du Tacul (Chéré, Contamine-Mazeaud, Contamine-Grisolle): there are walking tracks in place.  Likewise, for the traverse and descent, (and ascent to the summit) of the normal route of the Tacul from the top of the Triangle.

- Normal route on the Tacul was done on skis, there and back, on 23/05 (no problems with the bergschrunds).

- Mallory Porter and Eugster Diagonal were climbed on23/05

- Vallée Blanche: Need to walk to reach the ladders or the ice cave, (see Montenvers webcams).   It is warming up, making the snow bridges weak. The Requin hut is open but will be closed from 29/05 to10/06.

Pointe Helbronner Sector

- Traverse of the Marbrées has been done, (on foot).

- Tour Ronde is popular:  Gervasutti Couloir, North face, descent by the Freshfield Col. The normal winter route is feasible.

- Good track to the Col d'Entrèves, (the traverse looks feasible.)

Mont Blanc

- The Trois Monts is still not being done.  A descent sized weather window is needed to work out the route to cross Mont Maudit. 

- good conditions by the Grands Mulets: From the tunnel one needs to carry the skis to just above the ancient Gare de la Para.  If not, one can use skis from the Plan de lAiguille.  As a reminder, one needs to start EARLY, in order to reach the hut, (risk of snow slides and the traverse of the Jonction is awkward when it warms up.)   The snow is sticking to the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter, (skied on 23/05.  There is still some bare ice, between 4 to10m according to the guides.)  The route by the Plateaux is also tracked, the danger from falling seracs is still there.  The N face has been skied on the true left in good conditions.  

- the Goûter hut opened on 24/05. The Tête Rousse opens on Monday, 27/05. The Bellevue cable car will open on 8/06 and the TMB on15/06. This early in the season, snowshoes are useful to reach the Tete Rousse.  Starting from Bionnassay is perhaps easier, (or 4x4 taxi to Bellevue.)  It is best to take the path by the Are chalets to reach the Nid d’Aigle.  (The Dérochoir has too much snow and the route following the railway track is dangerous.)

Conscrits Sector

The Mont Tondu, the traverse of the Dômes de Miage (the skiing ends just above the Armancette lake) and the Aiguille de la Bérangère (there and back from the hut,) are all in good condition. 

Before the latest snowfall, the upper part of the N faces, (Lex Blanche, Trè-la-Tête, Mettrier,) were bare ice.

Report 10th May 2019

Some information for mid-May:

Wednesday/Thursday’s weather front brought with it 50cms of new snow at 3000m and 30cms at 2500m.  There was a lot of wind giving rise to unstable conditions by the end of the day on Thursday and Friday, (risk of avalanche.)  

Bad weather with more snow is foreseen for Friday night and Saturday.

The Aiguille du Midi cable car, (ridge no longer equipped), Montenvers train, cable cabins to the ice cave and the Skyway Monte Bianco (but closed from 13 to 17 May) are the only lifts still open.

High Mountain

The Conscrits hut is now closed.  The huts still open are: Couvercle, Requin, Cosmiques, Torino, Grands Mulets.

Due to the bad weather there has not been much activity recently. Next week should be better.  Conditions for ski mountaineering and classic snow routes should be OK, (not too much ski carrying, crevasses filled in, etc,) but do not forget to check the avalanche risk.  Concerning the mixed routes, it is not known if conditions have improved.  

Hiking

Down in the Chamonix valley it feels like spring or even summer.  However, up in the mountains, conditions remain wintery.

Due to so much snow, there is little chance that the footpaths above 2000m, (1800 for N facing,) will be feasible this spring.  Some sections of the classic trails are likely to remain awkward even at the beginning of summer, e.g.  Lac Blanc – Lac Cornu – Grands Balcons – Tour du Mont Blanc.

One can get an idea of the amount of snow by looking online at the Chamonix webcams.  Also, do not hesitate to get advice on what paths are feasible from the Chamoniarde (OHM) office. Be sensible in your choice of route and make sure you are properly equipped.

Mont Blanc Normal Route

The Goûter hut opens on the 24th May and the Tête Rousse hut on the 27^th May.  The Bellevue cable car opens on the 8th June and the Mont Blanc tramway on the 15^th June.  

The amount of snow at mid-altitudes makes the approach to the huts more difficult than normal but should not be a problem for fit, experienced alpinists.  

A new warden for the Nid Aigle hut is in the process of being appointed. The hut should be open at some time between 1st and 15^th June. The reservation system will be identical to that for the Tete Rousse and the Gouter, nominative, online, (50% of the places through resa web) and by telephone.  Proof of a reservation is needed to access the huts.    

As reported in previous bulletins, camping will be forbidden anywhere on the route, including the Tete Rousse.  Therefore, it is pointless carrying a tent.  As an alternative, communal tents, Himalayan base camp style with mattresses and blankets, (5 tents, each with 8 places i.e. 40 places total,) have been made available.  They can be reserved using the the Tete Rousse website. Full price is expected to be about 30€; usual reductions available.  

Miscellaneous

The road up to the Emosson dam is due to open soon.  However, there is work planned on the dam from 13th May for three weeks.  Hikers and skiers will be forbidden to go across the dam during this time.

Landing at the Bois du Bouchet para gliding site is forbidden by council order from 13th to 22nd May.  This is so that the area can be put back in order following the Musilac festival.  During this period, landing is allowed at the Bois du Bouchet hang gliding site

Report 4th May 2019

Mountain Conditions 04/05/2019

A quick update for this gap in the bad weather:

Since Thursday the following amount of fresh snow has been reported:

- about 50 cm at the Cosmiques, (slightly wind affected.)

- 15 cm at Grands-Mulets, no wind  

- 30 cm at the Conscrits hut

More snow is foreseen this weekend.

The Grands Montets ski area closes on Sunday evening, (05/05). The Argentière hut closed on the 1st May.  There is still a lot of ski touring potential in this sector, (Col du Chardonnet, Aiguille d'Argentière, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière). Conditions are slowly improving for the steep skiing, (couloir Barbey, col des Cristaux, NE des Courtes) and the mixed routes. The Albert 1er and Trient huts are also closed.

Though there are good conditions in the Talèfre area, the approach to the Couvercle hut is now awkward. The moraine is dangerous and there is a slab to climb in the central gullly, the Pierre à Béranger has no snow and the route by the ladders has too much snow.  More info in the cahier de course, (route book).

The rope protected “Z” path from the Aig du Midi has been dismantled.  The Valley Blanche is still OK, (the snow bridges, especially in the lower part, need care.)  There is walking in some places on the Mer de Glace, as well as for 5 mins to reach the ice cave.  The Brèche Puiseux, couloir du Capucin and the col du Tacul, there and back, are still being done.

The Glacier Rond (rope useful at the start), Cosmiques couloir and the Col du Plan are being skied regularly.  The Mallory-Porter has not been climbed recently.

The Plan de l'Aiguille hut opened on the 1st May. The Grands Mulets hut is due to be very popular for people doing Mont Blanc over the next few days.  A serac fall crossed the track at the Petit Plateau on 1^st May.  There is still an ice pitch, (60m, 6 ice screws useful) followed by a section of ice and snow for 300m, (short roping) on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter.  The snow appears to be stable but check when there!

On the approach to the Conscrits hut, (closes 11th May), one can start skinning on leaving the forest, (Nant du Tour).  The snow appears to be sticking to the N faces in this sector. The traverse of the Domes de Miage is still in condition.  On the descent the skiing now ends above the lake.

Ski touring is still possible in the Col d'Encrenaz area from the Col des Montets or the Berard valley, (Mont Buet, col de Salenton, col de Beugeant...).

Not much has changed for hiking. There is still a lot of snow above 1800m.  The feasible hikes remain the same as in the last update.  The footbridge at Merlet is now in place. Think about checking the list of officially closed paths, (liste)