news blog

Report 4th September 2020

This report is based on information received following the resumption of activity in the high mountain.

After the storms there was a period of cold weather, but the temperatures have risen significantly today. The new snow has on the whole improved conditions but remember the season is ending. Vigilance is needed on the glaciers; the new snow can conceal the weak snow bridges and some crevasses.  The rock routes exposed to the sun are climbable again.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

There has been climbing on the  S face of the Aig du Midi.  There is some snow on the ledges, but the rock is mainly dry. Conditions have improved, for the time being, on the Cosmiques Arete and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal (the 3 Pointes), both of which are retracked. On the Tacul, a party turned back yesterday due to knee deep snow after the 1^st bergschrund. A party today crossed the 1st bergschrund in the middle and went up the lefthand side, (looking upwards.)
A party turned back at the second pitch on the Chéré Gully, (a lot of snow on top of the ice): A second party attempted the Tacul, crossing the bergschrund in the middle and going left up under the Triangle. (No further information yet.)   

The traverse of the Valley Blanche was re-tracked yesterday. 

Torino Sector

The Marbrées and Entrèves traverses are being done again, as has the Rochefort Ridge. Likewise, there is climbing on the Dent du Géant.   (Take care on the unstable terrain at the level of the Salle à Manger and above the bergschrund.)

Envers des Aiguilles Sector

The rock has dried well, and climbing is possible everywhere in this sector.  This morning there was a party on the Mer de Glace face of the Grepon.  The bergshrund goes once more on the right, then traverse to the left.  There is some snow on the ledges, but this is not a problem for the climb.  No information for the descent of the Nantillons glacier.

Conscrits Sector

The Tondu was re-tracked two days ago, the conditions being easier due to the new snow.
The Dômes de Miage traverse was done this morning in good conditions, (no ice for the moment!)

Chamonix Aiguilles

The ledges of the Pilier Rouge de Blaitière look to still have some snow, though a lot disappeared today.
Snow remains on the ledges on the Peigne normal route. No further information for this sector, which is taking time to dry in some areas.

Mid Mountain

The hiking conditions were not affected by the recent snowfall and remain excellent.

Please note that the Remuaz path between  Col des Montets and the cairn at Tête aux Vents will be closed from 7 to 11 September. 

Report 31 August 2020

A taste of winter in the mountains at the end of August !!!

There is quite a lot of snow at high altitude: the rocks are well plastered, beware of the risk of avalanches and snow sluffs on some routes! Be careful also at the snow bridges on glaciers ...

There is snow down to 2300m but it is unlikely to affect the hiking trails for long.  

Some feedback from the hut wardens:

- Cosmiques: 50 cm of cold and very windblown snow

- 30/40 cm at the Gouter, also windblown

- Torino: 20 cm, (no snow at the Monzino)

- Envers de Aiguilles: 20 cm

-Couvercle: 20 cm

- Albert 1er: 20 cm

- Conscrits: also, 20 cm

- Col de Balme: 8 cm

Report 24 August 2020

                                                                MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 24/08/20

Some selected information.

As the season advances the conditions continue to evolve.  Caution is still needed with snow bridges and in potentially unstable areas.

The Dômes de Miage traverse is still being done, starting from the Bérangère and returning by the Trè la Tète glacier, (a bit of ice below the east summit and some open crevasses on the  glacier, as one would expect at the end of the season.)

There has been a large landslip above the Miage glacier which has cut across the path to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier.  This area still looks unstable, but not confirmed.  It is advised to approach the Durier hut from the Dômes de Miage. The Aiguille de Bionnassay remains in good condition.

The Gouter route up Mont Blanc is back to “normal”, with the stonefall being less intense.

The Gonella hut has been shut since 18/06, no further information.

The is some recent information concerning the Trois Monts route on the Cosmiques hut’s Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/refugedescosmiques/posts/3090977520950974

Since this Monday it is no longer possible to cross the Tacul bergschrund on the left, (looking up) .  Therefore, you are advised to go to the right, but it is your call! 

The bergshrunds for the rock routes in this sector have not worsened.

On 22/08 another landslip was reported on the approach to the Salle à Manger (access to the Dent du Géant and Rochefort Arete). The Marbrés and Aiguilles d'Entrèves traverses are still being done.

A few parties are still doing the Jorasses traverse. Not much has changed on the normal route, (still at the limit)

See the Chamoniarde route book for the latest information on the Nantillons glacier. (https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/cahier-de-courses). The Charmoz-Grepon bergschrund is still passable but the glacier approach is very exposed to stonefall

No recent information for the République/Grepon Mer de Glace bergschrund, which is very tricky since the collapse of the “tunnel”, Otherwise, no changes, it goes !

Already there is snow on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses but there are still some parties doing the Cassin, (Walker Spur).  The rock routes in this sector are in good condition; no problems with the glacier approach to the Petites Jorasses.

The Charpoua hut shuts this Thursday, still some parties doing the traverse of the Drus, the glacier remains passable , but perhaps not for long. “Good if one likes the Himalayas”.

In the Albert 1^er sector, it is preferable to approach Aig du Tour by the Col du Tour, (fixed ropes in place,) as the Col Supérieur is very dry. The summit slope of the Petite Fourche is ice.

Report 16th August 2020

                                                                MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 16/08/20

A general update on conditions based on recent information received by Chamoniarde from various sources.

Italian Side of Mont Blanc

Climbing continues in the Monzino sector, e.g. Vitale Ratti on the Noire and on the Aiguille Croux. The best approach to the Eccles is still by the glacier. The Freney is still being done. The approach to the Pilier Rouge has become more complicated, it is necessary to go via the Eccles.

There is no recent information for the normal Italian route up Mont Blanc.

In the Helbronner sector the bergschrunds are OK for the climbs on the satellites, with the exception of the Pyramide du Tacul, which is delicate. There are no particular problems for the traverses of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves and Marbrées. The approach to the Salle à Manger, (Dent de Geant) is dry. It is important to keep to the track and be wary of stone fall from other parties, (or your own.)  The Rochefort ridge remains OK.  The traverse of the Jorasses is being done regularly. The normal route on the Jorasses is also still being done but it is at the limit. There is ice higher up, (2 ice axes recommended, ice screws), the glaciers are passable but have some large crevasses/holes.

Conscrits Sector

Dômes de Miage traverse: The Tré la Tête glacier is still in good condition.  The ridge is all on snow but the descent to the col de la Bérangère is awkward with sections of ice, (good crampon skills needed). Doing the traverse west to east is easier.  
It is over for the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête as the North Aiguille summit ridge and the Col des Glaciers are completely ice. For the Pain de Sucre and Mont Tondu there are some good snow slopes which allow most of the ice to be avoided on the way to the summit.
Snow patches help on the descent from the Aiguille de la Bérangère.

Durier Sector

Conditions for the Bionnassay ridge are good, all on snow and with a good track.  The descent is awkward, foresee a night in the Gouter  to allow an early morning descent,

Aiguilles de Chamonix Sector

- Peigne : since the landslip in the Papillons couloir, parties have been seen on the ridge and the normal route.  The couloir is pockmarked from impacts but this does not seem to have affected progression.

- Charmoz-Grépon : the bergschrund at the base is very wide.  It was still passable on the 8th and 9^th August by climbing down into it, (this could change).   The Nantillons Glacier has some sections of ice; no information concerning the rockfall risk.

- Pilier Rouge de Blaitière : there is a ramp of snow for the approach.

- Aiguille de l'M : no comments

Cosmiques Sector

The Tacul is still climbable but the snow bridges are weakening, notably in the middle section.  There has been no feedback for the crossing of Mont Maudit.  It was re-tracked on 15th August, (30 cms of fresh snow.)

The Cosmiques Ridge remains very dry. There have been reports of some unstable blocks and water seepage at the exit chimney, ( to be kept an eye on)

Activity on the Pointes Lachenal traverse has been limited.  There is a large bergschrund and also ice, which was covered by thin layer of snow on the 13th August.  Many parties have turned back before the abseil, (large blocks standing on unstable sand/gravel.)  The last Point is to be avoided, as the descent is exposed to seracs

The bergschrunds for the rock routes in this sector remain passable, for the moment.

Envers des Aiguilles Sector

The bergschrunds for Marchand de Sable - Pedro Polar have become awkward. It would appear the bridge across the Grépon-République bergschund has collapsed, (awaiting conformation). Stone fall was reported yesterday in the Bec d'Oiseau gully (do not hang about below the faces).  Crampons are needed to reach the foot of the routes. The other bergschrunds in the sector are OK.

Charpoua Sector

The glacier is becoming more chaotic, but still passable by the lower track.  The Drus traverse therefore, remains feasible. The Moine is being climbed on regularly (Voie du Druide - Sale Athée), and also the Flammes de Pierre. Crampons are needed for the approach to the Contamine on the Évêque.
The hut closes on the 27th August.

Couvercle Sector

The glacier is still OK for the S ridge and normal routes on the Moine. For the E face, there are no problems with the bergschrund, (the snow is remains reasonably high up to the face).   The Nonne-Évêque traverse is still being done.  The bergschrund for the Moine Ridge on the Verte is challenging and should be checked out first, (awaiting further information.)

Leschaux Sector

The rock routes on the Aiguille de Pierre à Joseph, Leschaux and Petites Jorasses are in condition.

Numerous parties did the Walker Spur, (Cassin) last week, (with stone fall linked to its popularity).  Conditions are likely to change with for rain/snow forecasted.  Contact the hut for more information.

Argentière Sector:

Here rock climbing is the name of the game!

Tour Sector

The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the S Ridge of the Purtcheller are still being done.

Emosson Sector

The dam will be closed for the entire day on the 18th August.  There will be no access the Loriaz path,  Vieux Emosson, Vieux hut or the dinosaur prints area.