news blog

Report 26 May 2021

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 26/05/2021

There has been little recent information  on conditions in the high mountain.  It is a case of “go and see” and keeping one’s options open. Chamoniarde is awaiting your feedback!

Skis and snowshoes are currently essential for moving around in the high mountain.

The Aiguille du Midi and Skyway cable cars are open. The Montenvers train will open on Saturday 29^th May, (the lift down to the ice cave opens on 5^th June.)  Reservations necessary !

The following huts are open: Grands-Mulets, Cosmiques, Torino (from Thursday 27th). Only the winter rooms are open in the other huts. (There is a risk of overcrowding, especially at the Argentière).

Due to the impressive amount of snow at the Emosson dam sector, ski touring is still possible there.  The same is true for the Aiguilles Rouges (Bérard valley), though some ski carrying is necessary.  

Likewise, some ski carrying is needed on the approach to the Albert 1er hut by the moraine and on the lower part of the Pierre à Ric to access the Argentière sector.

The only sector with regular activity is the Aiguille du Midi, thanks to the cable car. All the main, steep skiing  routes on the N and W faces are being done.  There is even a risk of overcrowding.  At this time of the year conditions can change drastically from one day to the next, not least due to the passage of other skiers and the strong May/June sun.  Keep something in reserve when nearing your level.  

There and back to the Col d'Entrèves or into the Maudite Cwm are good ideas for an outing at altitude, to make a few turns and get the red blood cells working.

The ladder down to the Toula glacier is closed and its use forbidden.

The Cosmiques ridge, Pointe Lachenal there and back (or even the traverse,) and the Laurence ridge are feasible. As has often been the case in recent years, the Tacul Triangle looks very bare, (grey ice.) Likewise, the descent by the Tacul normal route does not look inviting. Once the snow cover stabilises it should be OK.  No information on the N face of the Maudit.

The approach to the Grands Mulets hut from the Plan de l'Aiguille was re-traced on Tuesday 25^th May.   On Wednesday, there was an attempt on Mont Blanc (probably ended at the Vallot due to the wind)  by the plateaus. (It looks like a serac fall has cut across the track at the level of the little Plateau).  The N ridge of the Dôme is not tracked and does not look good, (still with ice and heavily windblown snow).  From the tunnel, the skiing starts at the old cable car station.

For anyone thinking of doing Mont Blanc by the Goûter, expect winter conditions with a lot of snow. The snow starts at the Bellevue and just above the Are chalets.  The approach to the Tête Rousse hut remains complicated, (in effect an alpine route). The huts plan to open on the 1st June (Tête Rousse) and 2^nd June (Goûter).

There has been no change in the options for hikers. Generally, it is necessary to remain below 2000m.  Check this list of suggestions.

Report 15 May 2021

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 14 MAY2021

Unreliable weather at the moment, (wind, rain, snow, some sunny spells etc.)

Very little has changed since the last update, (7th May).  The weather windows have been too short to allow for much activity in the high mountain and there has been little improvement with the hiking trails (see ici).

The road up to the Emosson dam opened on Thursday the 13th, giving ski tourers access to this sector, if the weather allows.   Elsewhere , despite the low temperatures , the amount of ski carrying necessary is gradually increasing.

The good news is the Aig du Midi cable car opens on 19th May, (must have a reservation, use this link). The Park Merlet also opens on the 19th, (reservation needed at the weekends and bank holidays)

Consult the Chamoniarde site for up-to-date information on the hut openings (ici).

Report 7th May 2021

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 7 MAY 2021

A quick update for the coming weekend.

There has been a lot of rain this week with snow and wind at altitude, especially on Thursday and Friday. There will be more than 60cms of fresh snow above 2000m. It is difficult to estimate the effects of the wind high up.  (There is a photo from Grand Mulets showing one side of the hut completely plastered the other side stripped bare.)

The avalanche risk is no longer being reported but expect it to be “high” this weekend.

On top of this, the forecast for the weekend is not encouraging, (rise in temperatures, wind, and the foehn on Sunday.)

Therefore, care is needed in choosing an outing. For those recently restricted by the 10km rule, avoid the temptation to “rush in”. For the others, the high mountain is also not in condition!  The old local saying: "en Mai ne fait pas ce qu'il te plait" rings true.   (In May you can only do what May allows you to do)

The reality is we are between two seasons.  Skiers need to go high and, because the lifts remain shut, it is difficult to complete tours in a day.  

Due to the snow, hiking is limited to below 1700-1900m, depending upon the aspect, (see the last report).

Rock climbing and biking remains as popular as ever in the valley.

Ski Touring :

There is a need to carry the skis a bit further in the Berard valley.

There has been little change in the Le Tour sector. The approach to the Albert 1er is either by the moraine, ski carrying as far as the EDF water intake, or via the Col de Passon.

From Argentiere, it is still possible to start skiing almost from the foot of the Pierre à Ric.  However, it is in poor condition with large moguls and some sections of walking: "only for good skiers".  The Argentière hut should be open on Saturday 8th May until the 16th May.  Conditions for the classic routes in the area will have improved with all the snow over the last two weeks but there is currently an avalanche risk.  

For the Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets, (but be aware of the poor weather at altitude foreseen for the weekend,) it is possible to start skiing just above the old cable car station. Extra care is needed on the traverse between the upper station and the glacier. The route has not changed much at the level of the Jonction.  The last ascent on 3rd May went by the Plateaux, (the N ridge is still not tracked this season and even though it now has snow, the upper slopes will have a high avalanche risk.)  The latest information is that there is a technical section between the first and second “Bosses” near the level of the crevasse, which can be avoided on the left.  

For the  Dômes de Miage sector, the skiing starts at the exit of the forest at the level of Nant du Tour. Care is needed near the Mauvais Pas and on the final slope below the hut.  The upper part of the Armancette glacier is likely to be heavily loaded with snow!

If you enjoy Swiss French humour, see the French version of this report for comments from the warden of the Pannossière hut, Grand Combin, on the current conditions there, (which are similar to the Mont Blanc massive).

Report 27 April 2021

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 27 April 2021

Some information following a sunny weekend even if the weather is now due to deteriorate.  

In general, the snow cover at altitude is good, despite the warm period having removed the snow lower down.  The faces remain dryish. 

Bérard Valley:  Skiing still starts at the level of the buvette, but some rocks are appearing along the side of the torrent.  Above this it is spring snow.

Skis can be used not far from the road  for the climb up to the col de l'Encrenaz from the south.

Tour Sector: the approach to the Albert 1^er hut is by the moraine or via the col du Passon from Argentière. The Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche (N face tracked), Petite Fourche are popular. All the classic cols are passable.  The normal route on the Chardonnet was skied on Sunday, 25th. On the descent to le Tour, the skiing ends at the bridge, (keep to the true left bank low down.)  The skiing is not great nearer the valley due to avalanche debris and heavy snow.  The descent from the Passon, other than if returning from a route,  is no longer worth it.  

Skiing conditions are good on the Swiss side, Trient/Saleina/ A Neuve.

Argentière Sector : it is still possible to ski from the start of the Pierre à Ric. Nothing of note for the glacier and the approach to the hut, (it was crowded last weekend, the stove is out of action, take a sleeping bag.)  The cols du Chardonnet, du Tour Noir and Argentière are skiable. The big N faces remain dry. The Couturier has been tracked in ascent, no further information. There have been some parties on the Lagarde Couloir (Droites), a long and technical route would should not be underestimated, (see  Facebook page PGHM de Chamonix). Lots of ski tracks on the NE face of the Courtes,  less on  the Col des Cristaux and the Pointe Eales.  For the Aiguille d'Argentière:  Glacier du Milieu is OK with no problems at the bergschrund and the narrows.  The Y couloir is tracked in ascent, lots of ski tracks in the Barbey.

Mer de Glace Sector : Access is still from Les Bois. The passage by the Mottets is chaotic.  It is better to go via the  Montenvers ladders even if this does involve an extra height gain. Skiing still starts at the base of the ladders even if the Mer de Glace is already lacking snow.

Aiguille Verte : Y couloir was done on Saturday 24 (see route book).  The Whymper couloir is also in condition, the bergschrund passable on the true right, (left looking up). The approach to the Talèfre sector by the central gully is deteriorating, (skis off in one place.)

Valley Blanche/Noire, Brèche Puiseux are still feasible. A rope is recommended for the Salle à Manger.

Mallory-Porter : some ice on the traverse below the Aig du Midi ridge, soft snow lower down.  The Eugster direct is too dry, not recommended. The ski descent of the Cosmiques couloir is OK.

There is no information for the gullies in this sector.

Glacier des Nantillons  was skied in good conditions.

Mont Blanc by ski via the Grands Mulets : The skiing still starts at the level of the old station.  To cross the Jonction,  take the lower track, (safer than the higher path which is threatened by frequent serac falls.)  The Plateaux is in good condition.  There is ice below the Vallot, ( there is a track which avoids going straight up to the hut with crampons.)  Fingers crossed that the snow promised at altitude for this week will improve conditions on the Dôme N ridge and the N face of Mont. The descent by the true left bank of the Bossons glacier is no longer feasible.

There is still some skiing in the Trappier couloir sector with the snow ending around 1600m for the moment.  

Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay sector:  As a reminder, the Tré la Tête hostel is  open. The appoach to the  Conscrit hut by the Mauvais Pas is OK with crampons. In general, the traverse of the Dômes de Miage is in good condition.

The Mettrier ridge is being done regularly, (take gaz and a down jacket if planning to sleep at the  Plan Glacier). The traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay was also tracked last weekend, descent by the Plateaux.

Notre Dame de la Gorge : skiing now starts at the flat area halfway between Nant Borrant and the Balme. Good spring conditions higher up, for example: the col des Chasseurs and the Enclave and Mont Tondu sectors.

In Brief:

The Via Ferrata de Curalla has been opened on 24th April.
Hiking possibilities remain restricted to below 1700m ( facing north) and 1900m (facing south) due to the snow. The via cordas at Mottets and the Via Damou are popular, (cf route book)