news blog

Report 26th April 2019

Some information for this weekend:

Following on from the recent Foehn winds there was fresh snow down to the valley floor last night, (Thursday).  On Friday morning there was : 

- 20 cm at the Grands Mulets hut (wind affected)  

- between 30 and 60 cms of accumulated snow at the Cosmiques hut  

- 20-30 cm at the Plan de l'Aiguille

- 25 cm at the Argentière hut

The weekend’s forecast is for wet weather, including the possibility of more snow.

The snow is melting quickly low down but remains above 1500m (south facing and 1700m, (north facing.)   

Most of the lifts are now closed, (Les Houches, Brévent, Flégère, Balme-Vallorcine). Only the Grands-Montets (closed on 2nd +3rd May and then closes definitively on the 5th,) the Aig du Midi, Montenvers and the Skyway MonteBianco, (Italy) remain open.

Ski touring is accessible in the Argentière sector from Grands Montets, for example : Col du Passon to La Tour, Col du Chardonnet, Aiguille d'Argentière via the Glacier du Milieu (more information in the OHM route book), Col du Tour Noir, Col d’Argentière. Concerning the N faces, only the Col des Cristaux and the NE face of the Courtes. (large bergschrund) are skiable, though not from the summit.

The Valley Blanche and the Brèche Puiseux remain feasible, (the descent ridge from the Aig du Midi is still equipped.)  Be aware of crevasses concealed by the recent snow and snow bridges weakened by the recent warm winds.  It is still possible to ski almost to the foot of the stairs leading to the Montenvers (ice cave) lift.

As far as Mont Blanc is concerned, the Three Monts route is not yet OK, (avalanche risk and Mont Maudit is not in condition.)  The N ridge of the Dome du Gouter is also not in condition, (ice.)  The Plateaux route is the most feasible option. Skiing the N face by the usual ramp is not possible, instead take the true left side, (40m wall of ice, for excellent skiers only.) N.B: the Foehn wind together with the recent snowfall means there is a significant avalanche risk.

No major changes for the Tour, Talèfre and Dômes de Miage sectors since the last update of16^th April.

Some suggestions for ski tours which remain feasible and do not involve glaciers:

- Col de l'Encrenaz from (just below) the Col des Montets

- Bérard Valley (Beaugeant, Bérard, Salenton Cols and Mont Buet) from Le Buet (Walking for 15 mins to the Cascade buvette plus some walking sections after that.)

- Col de la Terrasse/ Cheval Blanc from the Emosson dam road, (closed still, some walking involved.)

For those still wanting to snowshoe, a possibility is to ascend the closed La Tour pistes to the Col du Balme and/or the Aiguillette des Posettes.

Spring has very much arrived in the valley and the trees are beginning to blossom.  However, appearances can be deceptive, many of the hiking trails are not yet in condition. 

Some suggestions for hikers are, (suitable footwear and poles needed for the higher paths) :

- Chalets d’Ayères from Servoz or Plaine Joux

- Chalet de Chailloux, there and back, from Flatière or Merlet

- Chalet du Cerro and its viewpoint

- Petit Balcon Sud : Gaillands - Les Praz / Les Tines. 

- Petit Balcon Nord between Chamonix and Argentière

- Chalet de la Floria, there and back, from Chamonix or Les Praz only (path free of snow).

- Chalet du Chapeau from Les Praz – Les Tines – Le Lavancher, there and back. 

- Buvette des Mottets from Les Bois (Filia path) or Les Planards (do not take the path for Montenvers via Caillet)

- Chalets de Loriaz

Check the feasibility of the paths at the Office de Haute Montagne and also for paths closed by council order,  (arrêtés de fermetures .) 

Report 16 April 2019

Information for the high and mid mountain during the Easter holidays:

Some of the ski areas are already closed (Les Houches, La Flégère, Vallorcine, Megève, Saint Gervais).

Areas still open are Balme/Le Tour, Brévent, Contamines (until 22/04) and Argentière/Lognan (until 01/05 then the weekend 4/5 May).  The Aiguille du Midi cable car and the Montenvers train remain open. More information on the CMB website.

Tour / Trient Sector

Not much has changed since the last update.  Access is either by the Balme chairlift and the Col des Autannes or from Lognan and the Col du Passon.

A bit of walking is necessary to reach Trient village.  All the cols are being done and are in condition. The Couloir de la Table is tracked, (the gully in the lower band is OK), as is normal route on the Aig du Tour, (by the E ridge and the col between the two summits.)  A party has done the Table ridge.

Some parties have traversed the Chardonnet, (up by the SE couloir and descent by the normal route.)

It is still just possible to ski all the way to La Tour, but expect some walking at the boardercross area soon.  

Argentière Sector

Depending on the chosen route one can get onto the Argentiere glacier by the return route (Passon, Chardonnet) or by the Col des Rachasses (Glacier du Milieu, Argentière hut, Col du Tour Noir etc).

- The Lognan hut closed on the 14 April.

- The N faces are not in condition (1 party on the Couturier and the Courtes NE 15/04)

- Col des Cristaux is in good condition, cramponning for the last 150m.

- The gullies are not formed, (not enough ice etc.)

- Cols d'Argentière/ Tour Noir/ Passon are OK.

- The Flèche Rousse ridge in good condition.

- The “Y” Couloir: bergschrund OK then a pitch to overcome the lower band, (ice on rock, 2 axes useful.)

- Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu: good ski conditions up to the bergschrund, ski depot. then cramponning to the summit and back.   

- Col du Chardonnet: rock hard snow in the couloir on the Saleina side. More information in the OHM route book.

Talèfre Sector

Little change here, one can find the latest information in the hut blog.

Aiguille du Midi / Helbronner Sector

Due to the dry conditions there has not been much ice climbing, (Chéré and Contamine-Grisolle on the Triangle du Tacul, Gabarrou-Albinoni and Pas d'Agonie 1 have been done).

It is forbidden by a council order to enter the Glacier Rond area from 17th to 20^th April due to work there on a pylon.

The Valley Blanche, Brèche Puiseux and Capucin couloir are still being skied.   

The normal route on the Tacul was tracked on skis the 13/04 exitting by the Shoulder.  The old ladder has been repositioned in order to cross the impressive bergshrund.

The Cosmiques ridge is in condition for the moment.  The rockfall area before the abseil is delicate but has a fixed rope for security.  A 40m or 50m ripe suffices for the abseil. 

Pointes Lachenal are still bare ice.

The Mallory on the Aig du Midi N face is tracked in ascent.

Rochefort Ridge was done on 13/04 in good conditions.  The party turned back below the Aiguille due to snow on the slabs.

Mont Blanc

Approach to the Grands Mulets hut: The best option is probably to start from the Plan de l'Aiguille. (Rock hard snow in the Cosmiques couloir and Glacier Rond, also they are forbidden until 19/04, see above).   Take the lower path, (as shown on the IGN map) to cross the Jonction. The higher path leads to an impassable crevasse. 

Higher up conditions remain complicated. The N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is bare ice for 250m, (foresee 2 axes + ice screws for 50m pitches.). This makes progress very slow and has been enough to deter most parties attempting this way to the summit.

A party climbed Mont Maudit in bad conditions (“rock hard snow”) but no further information.

The remaining way to summit Mont Blanc is to ascend by the Plateaux, (good track keeping as far left as possible.)  This route is exposed to serac fall.  The decision to risk it or not is entirely up to the individual!

The N face is not in condition for the moment, ski depot at the Vallot.

Two skiers descended by the Corridor, (a rope was used to pass an ice cliff and at the bergschrund).

It is best to descend by the Para, (30mins of walking at the end to the tunnel) or to traverse to the Plan station. It is not advisable to descend the Bossons glacier; bad conditions in the gully above the Plateau des Pyramides on the left bank, rotten snow on the right bank, (15/20 minutes of walking.)

Miage Sector

Little has changed since the last update.

For the hut approach one needs to carry the skis as far as Nant du Tour, (circa 1 hour).

In general, very good conditions for the Miage traverse, (no ice) and for the descent of the Armancette (15 min of walking above the lake then skiing again down to 1700m.)

Mont Tondu is in good condition.

SW Couloir of the Aiguille de la Bérangère has been skied in good conditions.

There has been nobody on the N faces, which are bare ice, the foehn wind of 15/04 having stripped away the snow.

Hiking

It is necessary to remain at the lower altitudes.  Higher up there is a serious risk of falling.

Some examples of feasible hikes are:

- Lac Vert from La Côte (Servoz)

- Chailloux chalet from Le Bettey

- Petit Balcon Sud and the Floria chalet

- Chapeau chalet

- Loriaz chalets from Couteray, Vallorcine, (higher up snowshoes useful.)   

Due to work replacing the Flegere cable car, access to this sector, including the way to Lac Blanc, is blocked this year.  Lac Blanc remains accessible from the Col des Montets.  The paths leading up to Flégère have been closed by order of the council.

The Curala via ferrata (Plateau d’Assy) opened on the 15th April. The Gorges de Bonnant (Saint Gervais) opened on the 10/04, starting from the 2^nd escape, known as "Maurice Lenoir".

Report 11th April 2019

Tour / Trient Sector

The descents down to Trient are in good condition (the snow being firstly frozen then crusty then spring snow). It is possible to ski all the way to the ski du fond pistes, (then a further 15 minutes of walking to reach the village).

The Col du Pissoir is good (no ice), as is the Col Supérieur du Tour (hard snow but a good track, carrying the skis for the last 5m.)  The Col du Midi des Grands was very dry but should have improved with the latest snowfall.

No information for the normal route on the Aiiguille du Tour which should now be in good condition. The lower part of the Table Couloir is very dry, (a rocky narrow passage of 15/20m) but the upper part has plenty of snow, feasible in ascent.

It is still possible to ski all the way down to La Tour.

Argentière Sector (5 cm of fresh snow this morning, Thursday).

Average amount of snow for the time of year, (crusty).

On the Aiguille d’Argentière, the Glacier du Milieu (the top slope not skiable in descent), and the Y Couloir, (bergschrund and lower band OK) are being done

Nobody on the N faces, except for the Col des Cristaux.

Ski tourers on all the usual cols, (Passon, Chardonnet, Tour Noir, Argentière).

The return by the true left bank of the Argentière glacier remains good.

Talèfre Sector

To reach the Couvercle hut, it is better to use the central couloir, (one passage to walk,) rather than the Pierre à Béranger (feasible if very early.)

There has been nobody on the Whymper since the last snowfall, (party foreseen for Friday12/04). The way across the bergschrund, which had collapsed, looks to have filled in again and is should go on the true right.  

The south facing slopes are in good condition, (e.g. col des Droites).  The snow is crustier on other aspects.

The Pointe Isabelle is in condition this year (glacier OK, skin up to the shoulder then mixed climbing up the ridge to the summit.)

Aiguille du Midi Sector (4 cm of fresh snow this morning, Thursday)

The Valley Blanche is still in reasonably good condition Some treacherous crevasses in the cwm before the Requin hut and on the traverse to the Salle à Manger. The snow quality is variable, with the crusty snow on the slopes exposed to the sun, (e.g. Grand, Moyen & Petit Envers). The classic route has better conditions.

The Cosmiques couloir (60m abseil then hard snow for 200 m) and the Rond glacier (rope useful at the start) are being done daily, (30 minutes of walking from the old station passing by La Para). 

The Cosmiques Ridge is now tracked. The left summit of the Pointe Lachenal is also being done, (no further information.)

The Chéré couloir is popular, though fairly dry and more technical than usual, (black ice above the bergschrund, pitch 2 dry: gravel, rock.)  The same is true for the Modica Noury and Gabarrou Albinoni (some belay bolts have been replaced.)

For the moment, the normal route on the Tacul does not look to be in condition, (large bergschrund and threatening seracs.) 

Helbronner Sector

The traverses of the Aiguilles Marbrées and the Aiguille d'Entrêves are very popular

For the Tour Ronde, it is still necessary to go via the Col Freshfield. The Gervasutti couloir is being done. No news for the N face which looks to be feasible.

The rocks on the Dent du Géant are covered in snow. Before this last snowfall, the Aiguille de Rochefort was tracked and in good condition.   

Goulotte Valeria (Petit Capucin) was done on 10/04, conditions very dry!  

Mont Blanc by the Grands-Mulets

The glacier approach is well filled in. The Jonction goes by the lower track, (as shown on the IGN map.)

Mont Blanc was done on 09/04 by the Plateaux. Conditions on the N du Dôme ridge have improved but there is still ice just below a layer of fresh snow.  The Bosses ridge is OK, (avoiding the ice with short detours).  The N face has been skied on the true left, (good skiers only; 5m of ice in the funnel, rope useful).

Dômes de Miage Sector

Generally good conditions in this sector except for the N faces, (they are holding some snow but not yet enough to fully cover the ice.)   About 12cms of snow fell on Wednesday.

It is still possible to start skinning from Plan (30 minutes of walking then again for some short sections.) However, the snow is rapidly melting up as far as Nant du Tour.

Very good conditions for the Dômes de Miage traverse.  There are some, avoidable, ice sections to reach the ridge and on the descent to the Col de la Bérangère.  The ridge is snow.

Good skiing on the Armancette, walking for 15 minutes above the lake then possible to ski again almost to La Frasse.

Aiguilles Rouges

Pleasant ski touring on all the classics, (variable snow quality). Still possible to ski down the Berard valley all the way to Buet.  Some ski carrying is needed for Loriaz, Bel Oiseau and Pointe Ronde.

Grands Paradis

The recent snowfalls have improved conditions though the snow cover is still poor, expect to carry skis at the start.

Report 28 March 2019

As Spring arrives the snow is disappearing in the valley up to 1500m on the S slopes and 1200m on the N slopes. There is still plenty of snow in the mid altitudes. The snow quality varies with the aspect.  It is still possible to find some powder, (albeit rare,) in some N facing, wind protected pockets. On the other hand, the snow is likely to be very hard in the morning on those S facing slopes exposed to the wind.  The snow softens quickly with the sun and the large, daily range of temperatures at all altitudes.

The conditions are like those reported on 21st March, with the following extra information:

Valley Blanche
Still in generally good condition, though some treacherous crevasses are beginning to appear.  There snow is starting to disappear on the descent down to Chamonix meaning several ski carrying sections and a 30 minute walk at the end.  

Torino Sector
Parties on the Aig Entrèves et Marbrées traverses: overall good conditions.

Aiguilles Rouges
The Bérard valley still OK, (need to carry the skis at the little wooden walkway near the Cascade.)

The Loriaz hut shuts on Sunday evening 31 March.

Mont-Blanc

Grands Mulets route: The Grands Mulets hut is open. Good snow cover to reach the hut.  The north ridge of the Dôme is difficult (200 m of bare ice); needs to be pitched. Serac collapse risk at the level of the Petit Plateau.  Also take care of the seracs on the true right bank of the Grandes Montées (between the Petit et Grand Plateau). The N face is not appealing due to dry conditions and the effects of the strong winds this winter. The route being used for the summit is there and back via the col du Dôme. Steel crampons are strongly recommended. (ice below the Vallot) 

Goûter route: Some parties on this route, no further information.

3 Monts route:  The route does not look to be in condition and is not being done; impressive bergschrunds on the Tacul and Maudit.

Argentière Sector
The Bochard lift is still closed, (hopefully it will open next weekend.)

Glacier du Milieu: Near the summit take care, the ice is just below a thin snow cover.

The rock routes behind the hut are dry. 

Albert 1^er Sector
The hut opens this week, (no warden on Wednesday or Thursday.)

Couvercle Sector
The hut opens this weekend.

Leschaux Sector
Couloir SW de l'Eboulement (26/03): Crossing the bergschrund went OK but the party turned back because the couloir was not in condition for skiing., (narrow, icy).

Conscrits Sector
An hour of carrying the skis at the start of the hut approach. The traverse of the Dômes de Miage is overall in good condition.  There is a track on the ridge, but some short sections of ice require good crampons. The Armancette glacier is in condition, (the snow runs out just above the lake but then it is possible to ski again shortly afterwards, almost down to La Frasse). 
The Bérangère, Pain de Sucre, Col des Glaciers are being done.

The Drus (23/24/03)
N Face – Lesueur route: OK dry tooling – not much snow – start by the Alain Leninger route then the classic. Descend by the North Couloir on abalakovs and in-situ abseil points on the route.

Thank you to all those who posted their information in the online Route Book.