news blog

Report 8th August 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 08/08/2019

ThTThThe first update fror August

The first update for this August.  There has been little change for the high mountain since the last report of 31^st July.

During the bad weather on Wednesday, it rained up to 4000m, with just a little snow settling above that. For several years now, rain at this altitude is no longer considered to be exceptional.

The rocks will dry quickly but there is little hope that the snow or mixed routes will come into condition. Be aware of the risk of verglas on the northern faces or on certain snow slopes.

Care is also needed with the choice of routes.  A passage of warm weather, with the isotherm around 4500m and strong winds, is forecast for Friday and Saturday.

Tour Sector

The Col Supérieur du Tour is still feasible, (avoid the ice which has several unstable boulders on it.)  The bergschrund on the normal route for the Aiguille du Tour can still be crossed.  Parties are still doing the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche. The Table Ridge remains feasible, (care needed between the lower part of the gully and the ridge.)

Argentière Sector

The Glacier du Milieu is no longer practicable in ascent (ice).  It is possible for experienced parties to descend it, e.g. from the Jardin Ridge. (This involves abseilling a combination of two routes bolted in 2018, "Par des Anges" then "Spigolo": chain belays, 50m abseils.) More information at the hut.

Nothing special to report for the rock routes.

Charpoua Sector

The traverse of the Drus remains in condition.  It is strongly recommended to check out the glacier approach the evening before.

Talèfre Sector

The information below is taken directly from the hut’s Facebook page.

"Concerning the rock routes, conditions are good. The bergschrunds are beginning to open slightly but remain OK for the Moine, Nonne, l'Evêque and the Point de Pierre à Joseph.

The Moine Ridge on the Verte is still being done. However, the bergschrund is widening.  The lower part is dry but there is still snow on the ridge.

Nobody has done the Droites recently. The S face and the diagonal gully are very dry.

There is still snow up to the Col des Droites to reach the Courtes, despite a lot of snow sluffs off the Droites S face.  Nobody is doing the traverse of the Courtes for the moment, the ridge after the summit is dry.  Snow remains on the descent from the Col des Cristaux.

The Pointe Isabelle is still feasible though the bergschrund before the ridge is now quite wide.  Some ice is starting to show through before arriving at the summit plateau.”

Leschaux Sector

There was a major rock fall on 4/8 on the lower part of the Walker Spur, Cassin Route, (Rebuffat Diedre.) With the verglas and the small amount of fresh snow, it would be wise to avoid this route for the moment.  

The rock routes should dry very quickly.

Envers des Aiguilles

Here also there has been little change.  The direct start to California Dream is no longer feasible. One needs to start by a ramp on the right.

For the descent from the Grepon, it is best to abseil down the West face, (from the "CP") then cross the glacier to the rognon.

Plan de l'Aiguille

Crampons are advisable for the snow on the approach to the Contamine Vaucher (Gendarme Rouge du Peigne). They can also be useful to reach the normal route on the Peigne (and the Minettes Spur), where despite a good track, the icy snow in the morning can be awkward.  

Aiguille du Midi Sector

It rained all day and night at the hut, (Wednesday).  Be aware of verglaced snow on the faces!

The Trois Monts route is, therefore, awkward and much more technical than usual.  The Tacul bergschrund is overhanging and strenuous, (3m; 2 technical ice axes useful.) The same is true for the Col du Mont Maudit, (some ice, the fixed ropes are frozen into the snow/ice and not usable.)

The seracs, (Tacul summit and the lower part of Mont Maudit,) are still there!

No reports about the bergschrunds for the rock routes, (S Face of the Aiguille du Midi, Pointes Lachenal etc).  No news is good news?  

Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets.

The hut is closed for the season. It opens again in Spring 2020.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The route has been affected by the recent rain and snow mix. The amount of fresh snow is negligible. The summit was re-tracked on Thursday.  The rain, together with the wind, has coated the snow with ice.  Good cramponning skills are essential.

Conditions are typical for the time of year: The Grand Couloir is dry, (the stonefall no worse than usual) The Bosses ridge is in good condition.

Miage / Bionnassay Sector

The Mont Tondu is still being done, weaving between the ice sections, even though it does not look that attractive.

The Dômes de Miage, there and back, remains feasible, though the ridge appears to be coming more awkward, (narrow and icy.)

Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back: nothing special to report, there is still some snow at the foot, otherwise completely dry.

The warden is going back up to the Durier hut today, (Thursday.) There should be a report soon for the Aiguille de Bionnassay assuming a break in the wind allows the parties foreseen for tomorrow, (Friday) to summit.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises

Little change, the glacier is OK but the exit on the ridge is awkward.

Monzino / Helbronner / Grandes Jorasses

Little change since the last update.

The Tacul bergschrund is awkward.

The Traverse of the Jorasses: Be aware of verglas (especially at the Pointe Young).  It is perhaps better to not stop at the Canzio but to climb this section in the afternoon and then bivvy on the summit of the Pointe Margherite.

The recent rock fall under the Canzio has not affected the belays. However, there is a risk of stone fall. This abseil line should only be used in emergency.

Grande Jorasses normal route: some crevasses have opened below the Reposoir. The bergschrund above is open but can be crossed.  There is no ice on the route. Take care on the final summit slope, it is not steep, but rock is rotten.

Report 31 July 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 31/07/2019

Some information for mountain activities

For hikers, there is no longer any snow at the Col de la Glière. There are still some snow patches near the Col de Salenton on the way up the Buet.

There are also still some snow patches in the Emosson area:  There is snow after crossing the dam and at the level of the Col du Vieux.  However, there is a good track.   Elsewhere the snow patches are small and easily bypassed.  The Cheval Blanc and Veudale Gorge are OK.  Near the dinosaur prints the snow bridges are to be avoided, some of which have signs.  

Tour Sector

No major changes for this sector.  The crevasses are beginning to open, but not yet posing a problem. The night-time freezing is OK for the moment, given the clear skies.

The Aiguille du Tour by the col supérieur du Tour and the normal route on the Tête Blanche are in condition. There is some bare ice above the Col Blanc and the ridge is dry, (Petite Fourche normal route).

No problems for the S ridge of the Aiguille Pusrtcheller.

A party did the Forbes Ridge on 30/07 but it is very (too) dry.

There is a wide bergschrund on the Trient side of the Col Blanc. The Dorées traverse is best done East to West. (The descent from the Aiguille de la Varappe is awkward in the other direction.)  

Argentière Sector

Hut approach: no problems from Plan Joran and for the ladders, hand line in place.

The Flêche Rousse is no longer in condition. There no problem with the bergschrund for the Aiguille d'Argentière by the glacier du Milieu but there is an awkward pitch on rock just above.  The next warm period will probably put the route finally out of condition

The Jardin ridge remains in condition. (Once the descent by the Glacier du Milieu is no longer practical, it will be necessary to abseil down the S pillar and the “Pirate” route.)

Rock routes: no problems reported.

Charpoua

The Drus traverse is in good condition.  No problems on the glacier, no stone fall reported for the moment.

Rock routes: no problems reported.

Talèfre Sector

The Pointe Isabelle (bare ice on the summit slope,) and the normal route on the Courtes are feasible, given a good night-time freeze.

No recent news, (but expected soon!!) for the bergshrund on the Moine ridge on the Verte.

No problems for the rock routes, (Moine, Nonne, Évêque).

Leschaux Sector

Following the bad weather at the weekend, the N face of the Grandes Jorasses has a dusting of fresh snow.  Some parties on the Walker today, (Wednesday.)  The upper part looks to give mixed climbing.

The snow/glacier approach to the West face of the Petites Jorasses is OK.

Rock routes: no problems reported.

Nobody for the moment on the Périades but the Mont Mallet glacier is likely to be complicated.

Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

A fixed rope is in place at the bergschrund for the République/Grépon Mer de Glace. There is quite a lot of bare ice on the descent of the Nantillons glacier but it is still OK.

No major problems reported for the bergshrunds in this sector, (Subitlités Dulfériennes...). No recent information for the 3rd Pointe des Nantillons.

The approaches to the Dent du Requin and the Pierre à Alain are OK.

The Valley Blanche is being ascended regularly.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

There have been problems with the phone at the Cosmiques hut.  You need to keep trying.

Mont Blanc by the Trois Monts: there is a potentially unstable serac directly above the track leading to the Tacul summit and another affecting the traverse beneath Mont Maudit. Serac collapse is a known objective danger for this route.  It is up to each individual to decide if they accept the danger or not.  It is possible to see the latest image of the N face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul on the webcam for the Aiguille du Midi.  The lower bergschrund is opening up and the is no equipment in place.  The leader should foresee taking two ice axes.  

Since some time, the Cosmiques Ridge has become unstable. This includes the N side and therefore, is best avoided. The Pointes Lachenal traverse is very, very dry

There was a party on the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07. The approach is very (too?) dry.

Rock routes: no problems with the bergschrunds reported.

Grands Mulets

The hut closes on Thursday, 1^st August. The 250m section of ice on the N ridge of the Dôme is covered with snow for the moment.  There have been no recent ascents of this route.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The Grand Couloir is in “normal” condition, i.e. dry with not too much stonefall in the morning.

The latest information indicates that the Bosses ridge will soon have sections of bare ice.

Durier / Conscrits

The Durier hut approach from Plan Glacier, including the small glacier, is OK.

The Bionnassay ridge has been re-tracked, (still on snow and very narrow).  There is a thin layer of fresh snow covering the ice section below the summit for the moment.  The ridge remains a snow knife edge.

There is stone fall risk and ice on the descent towards the Col de la Bérangère. Therefore, the Dômes de Miage traverse is best done there and back from the Col des Dômes.  The classic traverse is still feasible for parties of two experienced alpinists. The Mont Tondu is not in great condition but remains feasible, (some ice sections are not steep and others are avoidable.)

Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises

The glacier is OK, the exit on to the ridge is sketchy, (ice). 

Monzino

The rock routes on the Aiguille Croux and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey seem to be the only options in this sector for the moment.

The approach to the Eccles bivouac is still OK by the glacier but the whole side of the mountain here is subject to numerous stone falls and rock collapses.  All recent parties have turned back.  On the Red Brouillard Pillars, only the Gabarrou-Long and the Anneaux Magiques could be accessible, for those that really want to…

Helbronner Sector

Here also everything is very dry. The traverse of the Entrêves or the Marbrées. are still possible. The approach to the Salle à Manger, (Dent du Geant,) continues to get worse, (a lot of rockfall this summer.)

A party did the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07.  The approach is very, (too?) dry.  The Kuffner Ridge is also not in condition.

The Jorasses traverse remains feasible, descending by the normal route, (still OK on 30/07).  The abseils on the Italian side from the Canzio bivouac have been affected by a rockfall on 24/07. 

No problems with the bergschrunds reported for the Satellites.

Report 19 July 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 19/07/2019

Some information for this weekend

Mid Mountain etc.

Good footwear and poles are still recommended, (some snow patches remaining,) for the following outings:

The Albert 1^er hut from the col des Autannes

- Tour des Aiguilles Rouges (col de Salenton)

- Buet

- Col de la Terrasse from Loriaz, (the steep part is snow free.)

- upper part of the Tré les Eaux valley

- Vieux Emosson / Gorges de la Veudale/ Cheval Blanc (Dinosaur imprints still partly under snow)

There remains a steep snow field below the Col de la Glière, (the ramp is still under snow.)

There is no longer any snow on the way up to the Jonction, Nid d'Aigle or Tête Rousse.

The traverse from the top of the Plan Joran lift to the Argentière glacier viewpoint is indicated with orange waymarks and is for experienced hikers only.  For others, e.g. with children, it is necessary to descend the ski piste to Lognan and follow the normal way.

Concerning the Tour du Mont Blanc, the variants d'Arpette (suspect snow bridge above a scree slope,) des Fours, and the way up to the Robert Blanc hut (some snow patches above Lanchettes, a lot of snow from the Col d'Enclave and towards the Col de la Seigne), are now feasible for experienced and properly equipped hikers.  

Concerning the Haute Route Chamonix-Zermatt, the Cabane de Pra Fleuri is closed until the 5^th August. An alternative is to stay at the chalet de la Barma, (adds about 1h30.)  It is open but the warden is only there at weekends,

The Tour des Dents du Midi is feasible.

Following a small rockfall last week on the route "Bon Voyage” at Barberine, the loose blocks at the 4th belay ledge have been removed.

There is still some snow on the Perrons traverser and Aiguille du Van but crampons and ice axe not necessary.

High Mountain

A new heatwave is expected by the end of the week.  Be aware of the freezing levels and make early starts.

La Tour Sector

The Forbes Ridge is going out of condition, 70m of ice at the Bosse, (two axes, one technical recommended.) The bergschrund to reach the ridge is becoming more awkward and bare ice is appearing on the descent from the Adams Reilly Col.

The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, Table Ridge, Dorées traverse, Purscheller S ridge do not present any major problems and are popular.  

Argentière Sector

The Aiguille d'Argentière normal route remains in good condition, (good footsteps on the final slope; firm snow and no ice.)

The Flêche Rousse ridge has little snow and needs a good level of technique

The Jardin Ridge is being done regularly.

Col du Tour Noir is still feasible.

The Tournier Spur is not appealing, totally dry above the Château.

Charpoua Sector

The approach to the hut is free of snow.

The Drus traverse remains in good condition, (the approach and descent glacier is OK.) It is all “go” for the rock routes.

Talèfre Sector

Here also the main activity is rock climbing: Aiguille du Moine (S Ridge, Contamine and normal route dry, good snow on the approach.)  The Evèque and Nonne-Evèque are popular.

Good conditions reported for the Moine Ridge on the Verte, (the small amount of snow remaining is not causing a problem.)

The Courtes traverse remains popular but is becoming more technical. The descent was reported to be bit awkward.

Nobody for the moment on the Pointe Isabelle.

Leschaux Sector

There are always parties on the Walker.

Rock climbing in condition behind the hut, at the Pierre à Joseph and on the Petites Jorasses W face.

Nobody has been on the Périades for a week, (should be feasible if freezing conditions are correct.)

Envers des Aiguilles /Requin Sector

The bergschrund for the République / Grépon mer de Glace is still passable on the true right, (a small slab then snow to reach the corner.)

Some of the bergschrunds are at the limit, (California Dream, Subtilité Dulférienne).

The Dent du Requin (Renaudie and Chapeau à Corne ridge) remain feasible.

Ascending the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi or Punta Helbronner is still possible but take care with the snow bridges.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

A crevasse has opened up on the ridge down from the Aig du Midi, (a plank has been put in place.)

Trois Monts route remains OK for experienced alpinists, (with good cramponning technique.) There is a rope in place to cross the Tacul bergschrund, (small step) and at the Col du Mont Maudit, (however 2 axes are recommended.)

Pointes Lachenal, Cosmiques Ridge and the Midi-Plan traverses are very dry.  

Some parties are doing the Chamonix Aiguilles traverse.

Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

Frendo Spur is no longer feasible.

Crampons are possibly useful, (if the snow is hard,) to reach the Rouge de Blaitière pillar.

The Cordier Pillar and Charmoz-Grépon approaches are OK.  The descent by the Nantillons glacier remains OK, (almost totally on snow according to the latest reports.)

As always, care is needed in the descent gully, (normal route,) from the Aiguille du M (crampons possibly useful on the lower part of the Nantillons glacier if the snow is hard.)  

Mont Blanc by the Grands-Mulets

This is a good way to escape the usual Mont Blanc crowds. However, it should not be used as a fallback for those that cannot get a reservation in one of the Gouter route huts.  It is for true alpinists seeking adventure and calm

Generally good conditions, the Jonction remains good and the N ridge appears to be OK.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The base camp is slowly being established and should be completely operational by the end of the week, (5 tents with 8 places, 40 places in total.  Reservations to be made at https://refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr/resapublic.html by selecting "refuge de Tête Rousse" then "Bivouac / camp de base").

Crampons are needed to cross the Grand Couloir.  It is then dry up to the Gouter hut.

Miage/Bionnassay Sector

The Col des Glaciers is no longer possible, (large bergschrund under the col).

Some bare ice is appearing on the Mont Tondu but it remains feasible.

Aiguille de la Bérangère is all on hard snow, no ice.

Dômes de Miage traverse remains in good condition, (glacier well filled in and the route well tracked. However, one needs to be competent with crampons for the descent to the Col de la Bérangère).

The Aiguille de Bionnassay traverse still has ice below the summit and the ridge is very narrow but completely on snow.

Mont Blanc by the Gonella and the Aiguilles Grises

The route is popular. The glacier is OK.  The exit onto the ridge is a bit more awkward, (climb the rocks on the right)  

Monzino Sector

The way up the glacier to the Eccles bivouac remains OK, (there is a fixed rope to reach the glacier behind the hut.)

Conditions are dry with frequent stone fall.

The large gully on the Innominata ridge is completely dry, the route is not recommended.  Likewise, conditions are delicate for the Brouillard ridge (particularly below and above the Col Emile Rey, crampons are first used at around 4600m.) 

Bad conditions reported for the Grand Pilier d'Angle and the Peuterey ridge: there is ice between the bivouac and the col Eccles and the descent from the col to the Freney glacier is very dry. The Freney glacier and the Aiguille Blanche ridge, (still snow on the crest) are OK.  The GPA is totally dry, (unpleasant climbing on sandy blocks etc, then completely on ice with stone fall after 09.00h from the rocks below the summit cornice.)

Care is needed on the approaches to the Rouge and Fréney Pillars (ice present and stone fall but the bergschrunds are OK.)

The rock routes in this sector are OK, (e.g Aiguille Noire, Aiguille Croux).

Helbronner / Boccalatte Sector

The rock climbs on the Satellites are in condition. No problems with the bergschrunds for the moment. The abseil descent from the Ottoz route (Pyramide du Tacul) has been re-bolted at 30m stages.  There is also a bolt to protect crossing the bergschrund.

The Kuffner Ridge is very dry.  Likewise, for the approaches to the Diable Ridge and the Salle à Manger on the Dent du Géant, (good conditions afterwards.)

The Tour Ronde remains popular by the SE ridge integral, with descent by the Col Freshfield. However, it is not really to be recommended.

The Aiguilles d'Entrêves traverse is being done frequently (information on the descent from 05/07 ici).

The Grandes Jorasses traverse is in good condition, well tracked up to the abseils from the Canzio, after this the rocks are mostly dry.)  It is popular.

The normal route on the Jorasses is still feasible.  Pay attention to snow and re- freezing conditions.  A bivvy on the summit with a dawn descent is perhaps a solution if the temperatures rise as foreseen.

Report 29 June 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 29/06/2019

Some (brief) information for this week of the heatwave.

The snow continues to melt at mid-altitudes.  However, the situation has not changed greatly since the last update.

Good footwear and poles are still needed for the Lac Blanc, Albert 1^er hut, Lac du Brévent and the Bellachat hut from the Brevent summit.  

Conditions for the Jonction, Tour des Aiguilles Rouges (Col du Brévent and Salenton), the sector Col Cornu/Col de la Glière/Lacs Noirs, the Buet and the Col de la Terrasse are still not good.  (Only for well experienced and equipped hikers.)

On the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is still a bit of snow at the Col du Bonhomme and Grand Col Ferret. The traverse between Arp Vieille and Checrouit is now fine for people with good footwear and poles. The "Ville des Glaciers" side and the Fours variant are now feasible for experienced, well equipped hikers. On the other hand, the Val d'Arpette variant remains too dangerous.

Some sectors in the Houches and Servoz communes are to be avoided due to numerous fallen trees following a storm a couple of weeks ago. (Col de la Forclaz, Grosses Pierres). The “Pistes et Sentiers” team are busy clearing the paths.

For the alpinists, conditions are not as bad as expected.  With the clear skies at night, there is some slight re-freezing.  However, this might change as the forecast is for evening storms over the next days.

The rock routes are the best option, (good conditions in the Argentière, Flammes de Pierres/Charpoua, Couvercle, Leschaux, Envers des Aiguilles, Satellites du Tacul, Aiguilles de Chamonix, Monzino, Dalmazzi sectors...).

Certain classic snow routes remain in reasonable condition, (Aiguille du Tour, Mont Blanc, Aiguille de Bionnassay, Dômes de Miage...). The technical mixed routes, however, are not recommended.

For more precise and up to date information on a specific route, do not hesitate to contact the Office de Haute Montagne directly.

Thank you in advance for sending information on your outings to Chamoniarde, to help them prepare the next conditions update.