news blog

Report 09 September 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS  09/09/19

A quick update after the weekend of rain and snow

For the hikers: There is snow starting at 2000m.  The paths have a light covering which will gently disappear.  The hunting season has started.  There is no hunting allowed on Wednesdays and Fridays, (except bank holidays.)

For the climbers: The Aiguilles de Chamonix are plastered and feeling very cold. Patience is needed for the rock to dry.  Likewise, for the Aiguilles Rouges, though the climbs here should come back into condition more quickly.

For the alpinists:
This morning, Monday the following was reported : 10 cm with a little bit of wind at the  Albert 1^er hut (the telephone is working again),), 20 cm at the Envers des Aiguilles hut, 30 cm at the Cosmiques hut with a W wind and -10°C this morning, 15/20 cm at the Goûter hut, the snow is down to the Tête Rousse, 15 cm  at the Conscrits hut with not much wind.  

The following closing dates have been announced:
The lifts at Le Tour close on 22/09, the Leschaux hut closes on 15/09, the Requin hut closes on 12/09, the Envers des Aiguilles hut closes on 14/09, the Conscrits hut closes on 22/09 and the Cosmiques hut closes on 28/09. The Mottets cafe closes on 28/09.

Report 29th August 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 29/08/2019

The update for the end of August. 

The conditions have not changed much recently.

Tour Sector

The Aiguille du Tour is still being done but the conditions are very dry and not suitable for beginners.  The Col Supérieur du Tour is not recommended, the Col du Tour being the preferred option. The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche remain feasible.

Argentière Sector

The Argentière hut and the Plan Joran lift close on the 31st August.  This means a long approach to the beautiful granite climbs in this sector.

Charpoua Sector

The hut here also closes on the 31st August, (the warden has left some gas.)  The glacier (for the Drus traverse, Contamine route) is becoming more and more complicated. In descent, the parties do not pass back behind the Gros Rognon to join the ascent track.

Talèfre Sector

All the bergschrunds here are starting to open up and are becoming more awkward.   Some ingenuity is needed, especially for the Contamine route on the Moine. 
For the Moine Ridge on the Verte, the bergschrund goes on the true left.  

Leschaux Sector

Latest information here: ici ! 

Envers des Aiguilles Sector

No major problems for the approaches to the Tour Rouge, Tour Verte, Nantillons and Aiguille de Roc.
For the normal route on the République, please see the previous updates.

Subtilités Dulfériennes has become more awkward, one needs to descend into the bergschrund to reach the ramp.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

The Three Monts route remains possible for experienced alpinists.

Pointes Lachenal traverse: the snow last week has stuck to the ice, making conditions temporarily better.

The traverse of the Valléé Blanche is still being done but route finding through the crevasses is difficult.

It is still possible to cross the bergschrunds below the climbs in this sector: (Aiguille du Midi - Pointe Lachenal - Satellites).

Mont Blanc by the Gouter

The conditions are normal and OK.  The Grand Couloir and the way up to the hut are dry but the stonefall is no worse than usual. There is no ice on the ridge.

Miage - Bionnassay Sector 

The conditions remain technically difficult, (ice, crevasses,) for the Domes de Miage, there and back, from the Col des Dômes.

The Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back from the hut, is completely dry.  

The traverse across to the Durier hut is very dry, with holds coming away in your hand.  It is best to reach the hut via the Plan Glacier.  The glacier is still OK in the upper part, (pass below the red marker,) providing that it is early in the day.

The traverse of the Bionnassay remains feasible. The passage before the buttress is awkward, (very dry). There is some ice just below the summit, (which is bypassed on the left,) and at the start of the NE ridge, (good crampon technique needed).

Helbronner Sector

The main activity here is the traverse of the Aiguilles d'Entrèves.

The approach to the Salle Manger, (Dent du Geant) remains very dry.  Take care to stick to the route and be aware of other parties.

Traverse and normal route on the Grandes Jorasses

It is end of season conditions for the Rochefort Arete (ice, gravel). The traverse of the Grandes Jorasses is feasible, (given that the Pointe Young is done in the afternoon.)

It is over for the normal route this summer.  The conditions have got a lot worse.

Report 22 August 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 22/08/2019

30cms of snow fell at the Aig du Midi during the bad weather on Tuesday, with fresh snow down to 3500m.

The snow fall, together with the strong winds, has formed some weak snow bridges making certain crevasses treacherous.

Concerning the snow or mixed routes, the new snow has concealed some of the problems caused by the ice or rock exposed by the dry conditions.  However, it has improved the situation for some passages, albeit only temporarily.

Concerning the rock routes at altitude, the rock may be snow plastered, (with snow/ice in the cracks,) or verglaced. The foreseen rise in temperatures will rapidly dry the routes, depending upon orientation.  The south facing routes are already being done

The 2 routes up Mont Blanc, via the Gouter and the 3 Monts, have been re-tracked, as has the Aig de Bionnassay traverse.

Report 16 August 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 16/08/2019

A quick update for the weekend.  There has been little change since the last update. Given that with the temperatures are now typical for the time of year and there is good re-freezing at night, the conditions have remained stable.  

Aiguille du Tour sector:  the Col Supérieur du Tour is still passable. It has been reported that he fixed rope here is badly damaged and should not be used.

The Drus traverse remains feasible.  Some parties went for the Aiguille Verte by the Moine Ridge today, (Friday) but no feedback yet on conditions and especially for the bergschrund, (more info Saturday !!!)

For the Leschaux sector: " the approaches to the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses are in good condition.  There have not been any parties on the Grandes Jorasses for 10 days.  There is snow on the face above about 3800m....".

The Three Monts route up Mont Blanc remains committing and technical with, as usual, sections exposed to serac fall.   The Tacul bergschrund is awkward, there is ice on Col du Mont Maudit, and icy snow on the Mur de la Côte.

The crevasses on the Miage glacier, (approach to the Durier from Plan Glacier,) are opening up but passable if there is a good freeze.  The recent snowfall has improved conditions for the Bionnassay traverse. There is no longer any ice below the summit or on the ridge, (which remains narrow and airy).

The Trè la Tête glacier has lots of crevasses but is still OK.  On the Miage, the majority of the parties are stopping at the Col des Dômes. The slope up to the 3rd Dôme is ice and there is ice between this and the 2nd Dôme.  The Col de la Bérangère is no longer feasible.

The Gonella hut closes this weekend. The conditions have deteriorated. There are lots of crevasses open on the glacier, with ice and stonefall below the Col des Aiguilles Grises.

Monzino sector: there has been no improvement at altitude. A via ferrata has recently been constructed at the level of the Col Chasseur. It provides a link between the Monzino hut and the Borelli bivouac, giving a pleasant 2 day tour. (Information in Italian here:   https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=2708609995839249&id=104501702916771&__tn__=K-R )  As well as the usual via ferrata equipment, ice axe and crampons are also advisable.

For the Aiguilles Marbrées traverse, there has been a rockfall in the sector of the descent. It is now probably best done there and back from the Col de Rochefort.

Ice has been reported for the Vierge / Petit Flambeau.

Ice is beginning to appear on the Rochefort Ridge. There are still some parties doing the Jorasses traverse.  (The OHM route book has recent info, cahier de courses).