Report: 16 September 2022

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 16 September 2022

Autumn is here!

The weather is getting colder, and there is snow on the highest summits. A lot of wind but only about ten centimetres of snow at the Cosmiques hut. The risk of avalanche will have to be considered.  

The Albert 1er hut will close this Sunday. No other changes in this area.

The Couvercle hut is hanging on until the end as the last hut open in the Mer de Glace basin (the Envers closed on 15/09). No other changes in the area. A rockfall has damaged the aids on the path which crosses the river below the Moine. This bit is not easy and requires care (not recommended for hikers).

The Torino and Cosmiques huts also remain open as do the lifts. No major changes in this area either. The rock and the cracks can be plastered with snow or icy. The Tacul can be considered once the snowpack has stabilised. Concerning the Trois Monts, we are repeating this well phrased message from the Cosmiques hut (no apologies for repeating it):

"Tuesday September 13th, at 12pm...We have had two rescues on the Trois Monts traverse since this morning. It's windy at altitude, and the clouds are at the top of Mt Blanc. In the evening at the refuge, we keep repeating the same thing lately:

• No, the Trois Monts are not in good condition!
• Yes it's more technical than usual on the Maudit...do you have two ice axes? A sufficient length of rope?
• Turn back before the Maudit rimaye, if you don't have sufficient expertise, because then the retreat will be another matter...

Repeat, repeat...and yet!

The mountain rescue teams are picking up the pieces today in poor conditions.

So YES to “liberté en montagne"! But let's stop this irresponsible stubbornness for the glory of a summit, which puts the lives of the rescuers in danger. Better conditions will eventually return, patience. Thank you!"

Over on the Aiguille du Goûter, the huts are still open.

The conditions are becoming rather good again on the route.
Good news, the Tramway du Mont Blanc will remain open one more week until September 25th inclusive with two departures from Le Fayet at 7:00 am and 3:25 pm and two returns from Le Nid d'Aigle at 8:15 am and 4:40 pm. Access for mountaineers (with a reservation in a refuge) and hikers. Service offered free of charge depending on the number of places available. Reservations for the ascent on the website. Reservations for the descent at the Fayet ticket office.

The Conscrits refuge will remain open until 24 September, Monzino will close on Sunday 18 September.

Last days of opening for the lifts (TC de Planpraz and de la Flégère) which will close this Sunday (18). The refuges are also gradually closing (info here). Some hikes are therefore less accessible and less frequented.

We are no longer in summer, it is very cool in the morning and it can also be cold during the day depending on the weather (wind etc). The paths can be slippery. Remember to be properly equipped.

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 07 September 2022

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 07 September 2022

The summer season is gradually coming to an end. Huts are beginning to close. Most of the lifts are still open.

The nights are now longer and cooler and the refreeze is good. Recent storms have deposited some snow at altitude without significantly improving overall conditions.

Rock climbing remains a safe bet.

Le Tour

The hut is open until September 18th. The Vallorcine cable car will close on the 11th.

From the hut, you now need to go down to the glacier and then climb back up (on ice) because the route by the Signal Reilly is unstable and even dangerous (slope with blocks on the ice).

Still a lot of people on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche.

Little or no activity on the Aiguille du Tour, the rimaye is still very delicate. You need to cross via the Col du Tour. One team has climbed the arête de la Table intégrale. On the descent, a 40m abseil is necessary to pass the rimaye safely.

The Chardonnet is still not an option.

Argentière

The Plan Joran gondola and the refuge have been closed since 4 September. The winter room of the refuge remains accessible.

Climbers and crystal hunters can now share things!

Charpoua/Couvercle/Leschaux

The Montenvers train is open until 2 October.

The Charpoua refuge has been closed since 25 August. Building work has started and there will be no refuge or winter accommodation until next summer.

The Couvercle refuge is open until the end of the month if all goes well (water, weather).

No big changes in the sector.

All good on the Moine (Normal Route, S Ridge, Contamine, Miss Tique).

It's a bit less good on the Nonne-Evêque traverse (complicated rimaye, very dry descent couloir).

The Moine Arête on the Verte ridge is still not recommended: Not very inviting.

The Leschaux refuge closed on 5 September.

Envers des Aiguilles/Requin

The Envers hut is normally open until 15 September. The rimaye for the République is no longer crossable and you will have to use the fixed ropes installed last year (technical and physical, bring a jumar).

The Requin refuge closed 26 August.

Helbronner

The hut is normally open until 1 November.

There is still some activity on the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrêves. A few teams on the Dent du Géant. The access to the Salle à Manger is still very dry. The Courmayeur guide company will soon re-evaluate the conditions to see if they are acceptable to bring clients there.

The starts of the routes on the Clocher du Tacul have been cleaned and belays added following the drop in height of the glacier. The rimaye of the Grand Capucin is still in use, as is the rimaye of the Gervasutti route on the Pointe Salluard.

Aiguille du Midi

The hut is open until 25 September if the weather permits.

Small snowfalls have covered the ice on the Pointes Lachenal. The latter is once again being done especially the first summit. Rockfalls have affected the chimney on the 3rd summit (blocks at the foot) but not recently.

The arête Laurence (“Lolo”) is still being climbed. For the Cosmiques arete, you have probably seen the pictures of the rockfall. The main collapse (500m³) took place below the traverse under the Digital Crack gendarme. It's still very dry and not very inviting. (See photo below).

Mont Blanc du Tacul remains in fairly good condition. The slope before the rimaye is becoming steeper. The rimaye is crossed by a turn to the left. Of course, you need to be comfortable with cramponing to be able to do this route. Beware of the risk of avalanche after snowfall.

There has been no activity on the Trois Monts for a long time. A team made an attempt last weekend but stopped at the rimaye of the col du Mont Maudit after a lot of trail breaking (40cm of new snow). Concerning this rimaye, it is possible to cross it but a steep wall of snow/ice (80°) is waiting for you on the other side: you need two technical ice axes per person, you can use ice screws but the quality of the ice is not good.

There is still climbing on the S side of the Aiguille du Midi. Not much activity on the S side of the Lachenal because you have to abseil.

Plan de l'aiguille

No changes, the refuge is open until 31 October.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The Bellevue cable car and the Mont Blanc Tramway are open until 18 September.

The refuges remain open until the beginning of October.

The couloir remains dry but the cool nights guarantee a good refreeze. Crossing the couloir at the right time will reduce rockfall risk.

The glacial parts are in reasonable condition (beware of snow bridges). 

Dômes de Miage/Bionnassay

The Durier refuge closed on 31 August. The Aiguille de Bionnassay and back is not too bad. The E ridge is very narrow, sometimes “a cheval".

The Plan Glacier hut closes on Saturday 10 September.

The Conscrits hut is open until 24 September.

No one on the Dômes de Miage but still some activity on the Aiguille de la Bérangère and back.

Italian side of Mont Blanc

The Monzino refuge closes on 18 September. From Monday 12, access may be disrupted due to work on the Freney bridge and it may be necessary to leave from the Peuterey campsite.

A major landslide/ice fall makes access to the Boccalate hut complicated. (See photo below).

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 24 August 2022

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 24 August 2022

After the little bit of snow last weekend which was a sight for sore eyes, the good weather has returned to our mountains.

Conditions in the high mountains have not improved and remain the same. The recent snow is hanging on at high altitude on northern aspects (above 3,800 m). Even if the isotherm remains quite high, the nights are long and cool with a good refreeze.

Activity up there remains very limited, with a fairly low number of people in the upper massif.

Snow and mixed routes (with a few exceptions: Tête Blanche/Petite Fourche, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Col des Dômes there and back, Mont Blanc by the Trois Monts for very experienced climbers) are not on the agenda, nor are the “grandes voies”. 

The only thing left is rock climbing, avoiding complex glacier approaches (Orny/Dorées, Argentière, Couvercle, Leschaux, Envers des Aiguilles/Requin, Aiguille du Midi, Plan de l'Aiguille, Aigilles Rouges, Monzino, Dalmazzi sectors).

Given the conditions, it’s best to contact La Chamoniarde directly to discuss the feasibility of your projects rather than writing a detailed newsletter.

Do not hesitate to send them your feedback!

Some brief news:

• Planpraz and Flégère lifts have been extended until 18 September inclusive.
• The Charpoua refuge is closing tomorrow, Thursday 25 August. Work will be undertaken and there will be no refuge or winter room until next summer.
• The path up to Charamillon from Le Tour is completely closed, you have to go via the Col des Posettes
• Many people go wrong in the ascent to the Albert 1er hut by the moraine route by climbing too high in the couloir. As a reminder, this route is neither marked nor maintained and is reserved for very experienced mountaineers or hikers.
  
  
• Rimaye de la République is very tricky: big blocks of snow/ice on the slabs.
  
  
• Big rimaye at the foot of the Punta Helbronner stairway. It can be avoided by walking along the rocky ridge (see photo below).

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

Report: 08 August 2022

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 08 August 2022

 

The dry spell continues in the mountains. 

Glacier and snow conditions continue to deteriorate. 

Plan B is more than ever rock climbing (without complex glacier approaches). There are no longer any snow routes in good condition, although some are still possible (although technically more difficult). 

There are regular rock falls and landslides in some places in the high mountains. Don't hesitate to share your observations. The drought is such that it can also lead to rock falls in the “moyenne montagne” (lower hills) especially after storms. Beware also of overcrowding on some routes. 

 

Tour / Trient / Orny 

The Trient hut closed for the 2022 summer season on 1 August 2022. It will reopen for the ski touring season in mid-March 2023. During the construction period, the hut is closed to the public. There are no winter or emergency rooms. The Orny hut will remain open. 

Crossing the Dorées ridge via the Col des Plines is still possible. The rock is very good both on the Orny side and on the other side (Envers des Dorées). 

The Tour glacier is increasingly chaotic (ice, fragile snow bridges, crevasses). The rimaye of the aiguille du Tour is wide open (3m). You can still get across on large jammed blocks but it feels like the end (see photos below, thanks to the Orny hut guardian). The col du Tour is passable but there is a lot of ice. 

Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are still possible but the final part is icy (not very steep). 

 

Argentière Glacier 

Plenty of climbing here. Access to the hut is clear, but you have to look above you at the ladders (we are in the mountains!)

Large rock fall on 03/08 under the Pointe Farrar (Grands Montets ridge). 

 

Charpoua / Couvercle / Leschaux 

The Charpoua hut will close on 25/08. Renovation work will then begin. From this date until May 2023, the hut will be closed and there will be no winter accommodation. In the meantime, the gardienne has "closed" the Drus. 

A fixed rope is in place to access the Contamine on the Evêque. 

There are few changes in the Talèfre basin. The rimayes are opening but no particular worries for the Moine and the Nonne-Eveque. More activity on the Moine ridge on the Verte (the summit ridge is quite unstable). 

As a reminder, the Mer de Glace balcony path is an alpine hike with parts on glaciers and ladders: you need to have a good mountaineering spirit and not underestimate it. 

The routes above the Leschaux hut are perfect. The glacier access to the Aiguille de Leschaux seems problematic. As a reminder, access to the Petites Jorasses is no longer possible. 

Following the storms, there is rockfall and debris on the N face of the Grand Jorasses, all the parties who left for the Walker in the last week have turned back. 

 

Sector Envers des Aiguilles / Requin 

The rimaye of the VN de la République is still passable thanks to blocks of snow stuck in the rimaye (it's a bit of a “building site" after all). For how long (once they melt, it won't be possible to go through anymore)? 

Pedro Polar's rimaye doesn't go anymore: start on the first pitches of the "soleil a rdv avec la lune" (also a tricky rimaye here). Elsewhere, all is well. 

Access to the Requin is still OK on the left bank. Access and rock routes all good (Dent Requin, Pierre Alain). Climbing up the Vallée Blanche is a thing of the past (waterfalls, chaotic glacier). 

 

Helbronner Sector 

Less activity here. The glacier approaches are complex. Still a few parties on the Marbrées, Aiguilles d'Entrêves, Grand Capucin. 

 

Aiguille du Midi 

Here too the engine is idling. 

The Aiguille du Midi Arête is very technical (ice, steep), you need to be comfortable with cramponing. 

The normal route on Mont Blanc du Tacul is still possible from the hut (be careful with the rimayes + keep to a good timetable). 

It feels like the end for the Trois Monts which is more and more technical (Maudit middle rimaye very difficult, 2 ice axes + good technique needed). It is not at all an alternative to the normal route. 

You can still climb on the S face of the Aiguille du Midi. 

 

Plan de L'Aiguille 

Frendo and Mallory : All good (we're kidding but amazingly some people have tried!!!). 

You can climb on the Peigne, the red pillar of the Blaitière and the Aiguille de l'M. 

Access to and Cordier Pillar itself is very exposed (rock falls). 

 

Mont Blanc by the Goûter 

We aren't telling you anything new, the route is in bad condition and the Tête Rousse and Goûter huts are closed (including the winter rooms). Walkers can go up to the Rognes or the Tête Rousse (the glacier is icy and you will need crampons). 

 

Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay 

The ascent to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier can be considered very early in the morning after cool nights without storms. Access from the Conscrits is possible via the Col des Dômes. Aiguille de Bionnassay there and back is still not too bad. 

Avoid the Dômes de Miage traverse (ice, rock falls, crevasses above the col de la Bérangère). 

The Dômes can be considered as a return trip for experienced rope parties (good reading of the glacial terrain necessary, ice etc). 

The Aiguille de la Bérangère can be done as an out-and-back from the Conscrits hut. 

 

Monzino 

One of the sectors where it's good to live at the moment to do rock climbing (Aiguille Croux, Punta Innominata...). 

 

Aiguilles Rouges 

The best idea of Summer 2022. You can climb everywhere. Beware of overcrowding, for example on the Brévent (rock falls). 

No more (running) water at the Bellachat refuge, which remains open. 

Also beware of overcrowding in the bivouac spots and especially around the lakes. Please respect the rules of bivouac (from sunset to sunrise, take down your tent in the morning, one night in each place) or risk seeing this tolerance disappear. Similarly, you should avoid swimming in the lakes. 

 

Barberine 

Following a landslide on 06/08, the following long routes in Barberine should be avoided until further notice: Sylvie, Barbourine, Mirrors, Vipère and Méduse (see photos below). 

 

 

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 20 July 2022

• Aiguilles Dorées traverse : all the parties turned back yesterday because of rock falls (see cahier de course on the La Chamoniarde website).
• Rock falls on the Col Supérieur du Tour: it is once again better to go via the Col du Tour.
• Tête Blanche is icy but it is not very steep. Same for the Petite Fourche but you can go up by the rocky ridge.
• Teams on the Grands-Montets ridge on the Verte, the calotte at the top is tracked but dont hang around.
• Rock falls reported on the American Direct.
• “Tormented" glacial approach for the Walker spur. Some rock falls on the route. Almost everything is done in rock shoes. Descent not easy.
• Rock falls on the access to the salle à manger (Dent du Géant, Arêtes de Rochefort): the local guide companies are not doing these routes anymore
• Access to the S face routes of the Pointes Lachenal: the rimayes are complicated, abseiling is better. Good crampons (steel) are necessary for the ascent/descent of the Lachenal (all ice).
• Beware of the Aiguille du Midi rimaye which is opening up more and more
• A recent serac fall on the Tacul which hasn't worsened conditions on the route. Take care at the (many) rimayes on the route. Small fixed rope in place to facilitate the (strenuous) crossing of the rimaye under the col du Mont Maudit. The traverse to the col is not equipped, you need to be good on your feet (crampons).
• Mont Blanc by the Goûter: the bad conditions only concern the part between Tête Rousse and the Goûter. Hikers who wish to do so can climb to Tête Rousse!
• Col de la Bérangère to be avoided absolutely, in any direction: "constant rock falls".
• Dômes de Miage and back, is being done every day, "a few" crevasses but still ok, more and more ice on the ridge.

• The guides in Cervinia no longer sell the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Lion ridge.
• The guides in Zermatt no longer sell the ascent of the Pollux because of the state of the glacier.
• The guides in Grindelwald no longer sell the normal route of the Jungfrau.