news blog

Report 17th August 2017

The snow that fell recently was not enough to make any lasting difference to the conditions for the snow and mixed routes, which continue to become even drier

Albert 1^er Sector : It is becoming difficult to cross both the Cols du Tour and Superior du Tour.  Some parties have managed but others have turned back.  The normal route on the Tête Blanche is now awkward though still possible.  The Aiguille du Tour bergschrund is very wide but possible to get around on the right, with a sufficient level of technical ability.  The normal way up the Petite Fourche remains the only route feasible for novices.

Argentière Sector : The activity here is concentrated on the rock routes near the hut.

Charpoua Sector : The routes are dry and the Dru traverse was done recently, the Charpoua glacier still being OK.  

Couvercle Sector :  Everyday there are parties on the Moine and Nonne-Evêque.  Some parties went for the Moine Ridge on the Verte, (no further information yet.)  No known activity on the Grands Montets ridge.

Leschaux Sector :  The rock behind the hut is dry. The glacier approach to the Petites Jorasses is becoming complicated. The Périades, there and back, remains possible but good cramponning and route finding skills needed.

 
Envers des Aiguilles Sector : is popular but with the dry conditions, certain bergschrunds are very open. It is no longer possible to get onto Subtilité Dulférienne, Tout va Mal and California Dream.
Following the retreat of the glacier, 7 bolts have been added at the foot of Marchand de Sable with a new belay some 6m up.  Likewise, a new first pitch has been added to Rivière d'Argent at Tré-la-porte.

Requin Sector : the approach to the hut and to the routes still present no major difficulties.  Parties continue going up and down the "Vallée Blanche".

Torino Sector : The classics of this area remain feasible, though special care is needed, as conditions are very dry. The Rochefort Arete is OK and was done recently as far as the Canzio bivouac.   The Pyramide du Tacul bergschrund is very open and technical. A large stride is needed to cross the bergschrund on the Trident du Tacul. The Aiguilles du Diable traverse is in condition.

Cosmiques Sector :  Pointes Lachenal traverse, Laurence Arete and Cosmiques ridge are popular.  The traverse of the 3 Monts was tracked today (17/08).  The Midi-Plan traverse was done shortly after the snow fall but is now no longer in condition.  Nobody seen on the Triangle du Tacul, (too dry). Fragile snow bridges have been reported on the traverse of the Vallée Blanche.  

Conscrits Sector :  The Central Dôme, there and back, via the Col des Dômes and the East Dome E remain possible.  The traverse from the Bérangère is bare ice and subject to stone fall.  Some parties went towards the Durier. The traverse of the Bionnassay is in good condition generally .

Report 13th August 2017

The new snow at altitude earlier in the week has for the most part disappeared.  The rock is now generally dry except for some areas high up, where there is still snow on the ledges.

Albert 1^er  Sector :  The Col du Tour would appear to present less of a problem than the Col Supérieur but is still awkward.

Mer de Glace Sector : There were parties on the Moine S Ridge and normal route and also the Nonne-Eveque.   Still a little snow on the summit of the Petites Jorasses but the West face is feasible, as are the routes above the Leschaux hut. There are parties planning to go for the Périades on 14/08.
At the Envers des Aiguilles, some snow remains higher up but the routes on the Pointes des Nantillons, Tour Rouge and Tour Verte are feasible.

Torino Sector ; Activity reported on the classic routes in this sector, though be careful of stone fall and weak snow bridges.  The Tacul satellites, Dent du Géant and the Arete du Diable are mainly dry.  The Rochefort Ridge is tracked as far as the Canzio bivouac, with some difficult sections.  2 parties left for the Kuffner this morning, (13^th), no further information.

 
Cosmiques Sector : Climbing on the Midi S face and the Eperon.  No activity on the Triangle du Tacul.  The traverse of the Pointes Lachenal was done in OK conditions.  The Normal route on the Tacul is tracked. It seems that Mont Maudit was climbed this morning.

The normal route up Mont Blanc is tracked.

Dômes de Miage traverse was done this morning but the route is still technical, requiring ice screws. The « there and back » to Dôme Central by the Col des Dômes remains the better option. Parties have traversed towards the Durier hut then traversed the Bionnassay, (no further information.)

Please do not hesitate to inform the Office de Haute Montagne of your outings, either directly at the office or through the online route book.

Report 11 August 2017

A quick update of the mountain conditions.

The bad weather these last few days has virtually halted all activity in the mountains.

Snow fell to 2200m this morning.  There has been about 10 cms of new snow at the Cosmiques hut, 20cms at the Goûter hut and 30-40cms at the Dome du Goûter. 

The new snow is not enough to significantly improve the existing very dry conditions of the snow/mixed routes but does mean it will be some time before the rock routes at altitude are feasible again.  

Special care is needed on the glaciers, because some of the snow bridges, already weak from the previous dry and hot conditions, are now camouflaged by the new snow. 

The rain and snow showers are due to continue this afternoon but the weather should then start to improve on Saturday, with the temperatures low for time of year.

Patience, patience…

Report 3rd August 2017

The heat wave has returned at altitude and the routes, which temporarily came back into condition due to the recent snow falls, are now again very dry.

The temperatures are expected to rise over the next few days, which will mean virtually no re-freezing at altitude and an increase in stone fall.

- Albert 1er : The snow bridges are getting weaker in this sector.  The way over the bergschrund on the Aiguille du Tour normal route has collapsed.   There is a way across but this demands a higher technical level than usual.

- La Charpoua : The traverse of the Drus remains feasible and the glacier is OK for the moment. There have also been parties on the Flammes de Pierre.   N.B. the route “La Reprise” has been re-bolted and the glue has not yet set.  Do not climb before the 5th August.

- Le Couvercle : The Brèche Nonne-Evêque gully is dry, the approach to the Contamine-Labrunie on the  Moine is difficult but goes still. No problems for the other routes on the Moine.  No information about the Moine ridge on the Verte.

- Leschaux : The routes in this sector are generally in good condition but there is still some snow near the top of the Grandes Jorasses.  The Walker Spur looks feasible.

- Envers des Aiguilles : Still a lot of activity in this sector, though some of the bergschrunds are becoming awkward and others no longer passable, (Subtilité Dulférienne and  l’Homme du Rio Grande). The bergschrund for la République is still OK.

- Le Requin : The Dent du Requin and Congo Star have been climbed, no particular problems.  The route up to the Cosmiques is still being done, good glacier rope technique needed.   

- Torino : 2 parties traversed the Rochefort Arete towards the Canzio bivouac. The normal route on the Grandes Jorasses looks to be tracked.  Parties on the Kuffner Ridge and the Aiguilles du Diable; the approaches are very dry, the rock sections are generally free of snow but the snow sections are awkward, (the snow is wet/soft.)   The Dent du Géant and the traverses of the Entrèves and Marbrées are in condition. The Tour Ronde does not look inviting.  

The Tacul satellites remain OK, though some of the bergschrunds are now awkward.

-  Cosmiques : The normal route up the Tacul is being climbed, (some ice just before the summit.)  The 3 Monts route was done on 3rd August, in difficult conditions due to wind, fog and lack of freezing.  The Pointes Lachenal has been traversed, but it is more technical than usual.  Nobody on the Triangle du Tacul, (very dry).

- Les Grands Mulets : Contact the warden directly for information on this sector.

- Le Goûter : The return of the hot weather means  the stone fall has increased in the Grand couloir, including the morning!

- Durier : Parties have done the Aiguille de Bionnassay, (there and back,) and also the traverse to the Goûter, (no further information.)  

- Les Conscrits : The Dôme central, there and back, by the Tré-la-Tête glacier remains possible but the Dômes de Miage traverse is no longer being done, (ice).

- Monzino : A lot of stone fall in this sector and parties going for the Innominata turned back from the way up to the Eccles bivouac.

- Gonella : The hut has been shut since 30th July and the normal Italian route up Mont Blanc is in bad condition.

- Grand Paradis : The normal route from the Victor Emmanuel hut has sections of ice, (+ stone fall). These zones can be bypassed by going towards the Chabod hut, then up the moraine until the Schiena d’Asino, to reach the glacier above the difficult sections.