news blog

Report 8th July 2017

Some miscellaneous information following the recent good weather.

Nearly all the snow that fell at the end of June has now melted away. The mixed routes, which temporarily came back into condition, are now dry again.  Despite the high temperatures in the valleys, the situation at altitude is OK, though night time freezing is variable. Concerning the rock routes, the bergschunds are causing difficulties in some sectors.

No major changes in the Albert 1er sector, except that the Chardonnet descent is becoming more awkward, (lots of ice).  The Forbes Ridge is just about feasible but the numerous sections of ice require good technical ability. The Migot Spur is no longer practicable.

The Petite Verte is bare ice again.  Stone fall experienced on the approach to the Minaret (05/07).

Stone fall also reported on the Grutter, Aiguille des Pèlerins.  The Frendo has been climbed, with a lot of ice in the upper part and stone fall risk from the summit buttress, (respect the time of day.)

For hikers and climbers, the first train to Montenvers is at 8h00 and the last train down at 18h30.

Good conditions reported for the Drus traverse.  Some snow still at the summit of the Petit Dru, not enough to cause any problems but enough for drinking water if bivovuacing.  (N.B. The Charpoua hut is open!)   Too much snow on the Grand Dru summit for a bivouac.   The descent of the Charpoua glacier is OK, keeping more or less directly below the Y couloir on the Verte.

Leschaux sector:  The rock is dry, with the exception of the Walker which still has some snow.

Envers sector: The bergschrunds are staring to cause problems. Contact the hut warden for details of the route(s) you want to do. The descent of Nantillons glacier is awkward  It is better to descend from the Grepon by abseilling down "Le soleil a rdv avec la lune".

Mont-Blanc: The Trois Monts route remains OK.  No problems with the first bergschrund on the Tacul for the moment. However, the bergschrund in the middle has widened considerably and the large snow bridge there is weakening.  Do not forget that this route traverses under the Tacul and Mont Maudit seracs.   A fixed rope with knots and metal link has been placed at the Col du Mont Maudit, (a lot of bare ice).  The traverse to Brenva Col is in good condition, as long as you keep below the bergschrund.

The Grand Couloir and approach to the Gouter hut are in “summer” conditions, i.e. dry.  Take heed of the safety advice.

On the Italian side, the Aiguilles Grises route has been done but the glacier du Dôme is becoming a maze of crevasses.

Reasonable conditions for the Tricot integral, the Bionnassay traverse, the Kuffner Ridge and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse, though they are more technically demanding than usual.

Report 5th July 2017

Here is the latest information, following the recent, mixed weather.

It snowed down to about 2500m at the end of last week but, with the exception of a few shaded areas high up, the rock is now dry again.

The recent snowfall has temporarily improved conditions for some of the snow and mixed routes but with very warm weather, the bare ice is reappearing again.  This process will be accelerated over the next few days: early starts and extra care are needed!

- Albert 1er : No problems for the Aiguille du Tour with the exception of the Table Couloir, which has been out of condition for some  time now. Conditions OK at the moment for the Cols du Pissoir and Midi des Grands The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are also OK but be aware the snow bridges on the approach are now weak.

Concerning the Chardonnet, only the Forbes Ridge has been done and not in good conditions, (recent serac fall at the start and ice on the route).  2 x 60m ropes are useful for the descent of the normal route and there is a wide crevasse blocking the way, (though possible to get around for the moment.)

- Argentière : The normal route on the Petite Verte was done in good condition on 04/07.  Cols du Tour Noir and Argentière are tracked.   Good, mixed conditions for the Flèche Rousse Ridge.  There is a lot of ice on the Glacier du Milieu, (a good cramponning technique needed.)  The bergschrund goes on the true left bank, (right looking upwards,) then traverse to the true right side, (thin snow bridge.)    The rock routes near the hut are in good condition.

- La Charpoua :  The rock has dried quickly and parties left today (05/07) for “Sale Athée” and the  “Contamine”  on the Evèque.  There is still some snow left high up but not enough to cause problems and the traverse of the Drus looks feasible.

- Le Couvercle : The rocks near the hut are dry but the Moine Ridge on the Verte still has too much snow.  The Whymper Couloir is not at all feasible but the traverse of the Courtes, (there and back) should be possible, (good ability and early start essential).  The Point Isabelle is very awkward and with a wide bergschrund.

- Leschaux : The rocks near the hut are dry but the Grandes Jorasses still has too much snow.

- Envers des Aiguilles : Parties climbing everywhere on dry rock.  The bergschrund for the “Subtilité Dulférienne” is no longer possible and that for the “Soleil a rendez-vous avec la Lune” is awkward.

- Requin : Good conditions for rock climbing near the hut. Continuing up the Valley Blanche still possible, though care needed with weak snow bridges.   

- Torino : The Dent du Géant is in good condition but the Rochefort Arete is narrow and pointed and the approach is becoming dry.  Parties on the traverses of the Aiguilles d’Entrèves and Marbrées, the Kuffner and the Aiguilles du Diable, no further information.  With the hot weather, there is a stone fall danger, especially around the Tour Ronde.  Rock climbing virtually everywhere in the Cirque Maudit and on the Tacul satellites. 

- Cosmiques : Rock climbs in condition.  Also, the Contamine Negri and Mazeaud have been done, no further information.  The Pointes Lachenal traverse is back in condition.  The Tacul and Maudit are tracked, no further information.  The Midi-Plan Arete, (to the Aig du Plan, there and back,) was done today, (05/07) in generally good conditions, though ice is beginning to reappear in some places.

- Grands Mulets : The traverse of  the Pèlerins  glacier from the Plan de l’Aiguille  is done at the level of the buvette, (way markers) and not by following the path marked on the IGN map. After the traverse, the moraine goes OK at the level of the “point jaune”, (yellow marker?). Glacier des Bossons and Jonction are OK, (way markers). Take care below the hut as the snow bridges are becoming weaker.   Good conditions at the moment for the Nord du Dôme ridge.

- Goûter : The Mont Blanc normal route is basically in good condition but care needed crossing the Grand Couloir.  It is essential to move quickly and to cross as early as possible, (both on the up and the down.)

- Durier : The Bionnassay Ridge is in good condition.

- Conscrits : The  Dômes de Miage traverse is still feasible despite  a very narrow and pointed section and ice appearing  some areas.  No problems for the Bérangère.

- Gonella : The normal Italian route up Mont Blanc is in good condition. The latest information for the Tournette Spur is that it is not in condition.

- Monzino :  Parties left today (05/07) for the Peuterey, Innominata Integrals and the Brouillard Ridge, no further information.  No special problems for the approaches to the Eccles bivouac and the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard.

Hiking :

A reminder that all the paths between the Floria and Flégère are closed until 28th July because of works, (copy of the legal decision available on the Chamoniarde site.)  

There has been a land slip below the Aiguille Pourrie which crossed the South Grand Balcon path.  This area remains unstable, so do not linger here.   Crampons are no longer needed for the normal way up Mont Buet but there are still snow patches so good hiking boots and walking poles are essential.

Report 30th June 2017

A quick update following the bad weather this week.

Snow has settled down to 2300/2500m but this will quickly disappear below 3000m with the sun.

Above this, there is 15cms of fresh snow at the Torino hut and 20cms at the Cosmiques hut, (40cms of windblown snow throughout the week), 30cms of windblown snow at the Gouter hut and 20cm at the Envers hut. (see photo).

Since the beginning of the week, at lot more snow has probably fallen above 3800m and the snow cover will have been affected by the strong winds.  This will have created an avalanche risk, notably on the 3 Monts route, for which it would be wise to wait a bit.

After the bad weather, the mixed routes look white again but the conditions are unlikely to have improved.  However, the temperatures have dropped and, if this continues there should be a, temporary, improvement in the general conditions at altitude.

Concerning the rock routes, it is necessary to wait a bit for the rocks to dry.

Report 23June 2017

An update of the report from 20th June following the rapid change in conditions due to the hot weather.

It continues to be very hot and stone fall is causing concern is some areas.  Generally, it is best to stick to climbs on stable rock, even though some snow/mixed routes remain feasible, (given a good freeze and an early start.)

Albert 1er sector: The descent gully from the Aiguille du Chardonnet is bare ice, it is necessary to carry abseil ropes. There are still sections of bare ice on the Forbes Ridge, (see 20/06 report.)  Good conditions on the Table Ridge and the normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Petite Fourche and Tête Blanche.

Argentière sector: The Grand Montets lifts open on Saturday 24/06.  The Petite Verte looks to be in bad condition, (bare ice).   The OHM is waiting for more condition reports (Petite Verte, Grands Montets Ridge to the Aiguille Verte…). 

Charpoua sector: The Contamine on the Grand Dru was climbed on 22/06 in good conditions. The glacier was OK, though maybe not for long.

Couvercle sector:  The bergschrund for the Moine Ridge is awkward and the upper part still has a lot (too much?) snow.

Envers des Aiguilles sector: The missing ladders and steps on the hut approach have been replaced.  The unstable zone above the start of the ladders has been purged but the area is still to be avoided after rain.  The granite climbs are in excellent condition, the bergschrunds still being OK.  The Ryan Ridge looks feasible. However, the start is complicated with 3 bergschrunds, keep to the rocks to the left, technical.  It is not recommended to descend the Nantillons glacier because of crevasses and stonefall.  Descent from the Grepon is possible by abseilling down the Piola route "Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune" on the Envers side, from Point Balfour.

Cosmique / Aiguille du Midi sector:   The 3 Monts remains popular, the Tacul is OK (use the righthand track,) some ice at the Col du Mont Maudit (2 axes useful for the leader, no fixed rope in place.)  Take the lower track towards the Col de la Brenva, (which goes along below the bergschrund, the higher track is exposed and icy).  The Contamines-Mazeaud and Grisolle on the Tacul Pyramide are feasible, given a good freeze and an early start.  The Gervasutti Pilla r is in good condition.

Torino / Helbronner sector: The Dent du Géant approach is dry but OK.  The Rochefort ridge is awkward, (very narrow and with ice sections) Different opinions, (depending technical ability?) reported for the Kuffner.  The bergschrund in the approach couloir is fragile. The Aiguilles du Diable traverse is still feasible.

Goûter: The dry, hot weather has increased the stonefall risk in the Grand Couloir, including the morning.   Conditions are not good and it is best to postpone plans for an ascent.

Monzino: The Eccles bivouac is accessible.  The Innominata ridge was done 22/06 in bad conditions.  Rocks/blocks were streaming down the gully between the two ridges. Therefore, it is not recommended until better freezing conditions prevail.   The Brouillard Ridge (integral) is also not recommended, due to unstable boulders. The Bonatti on the Brouillard Red Pillar has been climbed recently.  The belays and bolts on the Gabarrou-Long ont have been renewed. The pillar is dry, it was approached  by abseiling from the Eccles.

Stay safe !

The Chamoniarde ( http://www.chamoniarde.com/en/mountain-topics/climbing-report-book ), looks forward to your reports to help with future updates….