news blog

Report 30th June 2017

A quick update following the bad weather this week.

Snow has settled down to 2300/2500m but this will quickly disappear below 3000m with the sun.

Above this, there is 15cms of fresh snow at the Torino hut and 20cms at the Cosmiques hut, (40cms of windblown snow throughout the week), 30cms of windblown snow at the Gouter hut and 20cm at the Envers hut. (see photo).

Since the beginning of the week, at lot more snow has probably fallen above 3800m and the snow cover will have been affected by the strong winds.  This will have created an avalanche risk, notably on the 3 Monts route, for which it would be wise to wait a bit.

After the bad weather, the mixed routes look white again but the conditions are unlikely to have improved.  However, the temperatures have dropped and, if this continues there should be a, temporary, improvement in the general conditions at altitude.

Concerning the rock routes, it is necessary to wait a bit for the rocks to dry.

Report 23June 2017

An update of the report from 20th June following the rapid change in conditions due to the hot weather.

It continues to be very hot and stone fall is causing concern is some areas.  Generally, it is best to stick to climbs on stable rock, even though some snow/mixed routes remain feasible, (given a good freeze and an early start.)

Albert 1er sector: The descent gully from the Aiguille du Chardonnet is bare ice, it is necessary to carry abseil ropes. There are still sections of bare ice on the Forbes Ridge, (see 20/06 report.)  Good conditions on the Table Ridge and the normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Petite Fourche and Tête Blanche.

Argentière sector: The Grand Montets lifts open on Saturday 24/06.  The Petite Verte looks to be in bad condition, (bare ice).   The OHM is waiting for more condition reports (Petite Verte, Grands Montets Ridge to the Aiguille Verte…). 

Charpoua sector: The Contamine on the Grand Dru was climbed on 22/06 in good conditions. The glacier was OK, though maybe not for long.

Couvercle sector:  The bergschrund for the Moine Ridge is awkward and the upper part still has a lot (too much?) snow.

Envers des Aiguilles sector: The missing ladders and steps on the hut approach have been replaced.  The unstable zone above the start of the ladders has been purged but the area is still to be avoided after rain.  The granite climbs are in excellent condition, the bergschrunds still being OK.  The Ryan Ridge looks feasible. However, the start is complicated with 3 bergschrunds, keep to the rocks to the left, technical.  It is not recommended to descend the Nantillons glacier because of crevasses and stonefall.  Descent from the Grepon is possible by abseilling down the Piola route "Le soleil a rendez-vous avec la lune" on the Envers side, from Point Balfour.

Cosmique / Aiguille du Midi sector:   The 3 Monts remains popular, the Tacul is OK (use the righthand track,) some ice at the Col du Mont Maudit (2 axes useful for the leader, no fixed rope in place.)  Take the lower track towards the Col de la Brenva, (which goes along below the bergschrund, the higher track is exposed and icy).  The Contamines-Mazeaud and Grisolle on the Tacul Pyramide are feasible, given a good freeze and an early start.  The Gervasutti Pilla r is in good condition.

Torino / Helbronner sector: The Dent du Géant approach is dry but OK.  The Rochefort ridge is awkward, (very narrow and with ice sections) Different opinions, (depending technical ability?) reported for the Kuffner.  The bergschrund in the approach couloir is fragile. The Aiguilles du Diable traverse is still feasible.

Goûter: The dry, hot weather has increased the stonefall risk in the Grand Couloir, including the morning.   Conditions are not good and it is best to postpone plans for an ascent.

Monzino: The Eccles bivouac is accessible.  The Innominata ridge was done 22/06 in bad conditions.  Rocks/blocks were streaming down the gully between the two ridges. Therefore, it is not recommended until better freezing conditions prevail.   The Brouillard Ridge (integral) is also not recommended, due to unstable boulders. The Bonatti on the Brouillard Red Pillar has been climbed recently.  The belays and bolts on the Gabarrou-Long ont have been renewed. The pillar is dry, it was approached  by abseiling from the Eccles.

Stay safe !

The Chamoniarde ( http://www.chamoniarde.com/en/mountain-topics/climbing-report-book ), looks forward to your reports to help with future updates….

Report 20th June 2017

Starting with some information for hikers:

With the opening of some of the lifts, the hiking season is now well underway.

Most of the trails are without problems, despite the continued presence of some snow patches, (especially on north facing slopes in the Aiguille Rouges).  If there has been a clear, cold night, crampons may be essential for Mont Buet or for the descent from Col de Salenton towards Bérard.
No problems with the Col du Brévent and the path from the Index to Lac Blanc.  
Also, no problems to get to the Albert 1^er hut from the La Tour lifts.

The few snow patches between Platé and the Dérochoir, (above Plaine Joux,) do not cause any difficulties.  

Conditions for the Tour du Mont Blanc have improved and the Col des Fours and the Fenêtre d’Arpette are now feasible; some snow patches remain but these should soon disappear.  

For the alpinists:

With the current heatwave, many of the snow and mixed routes are rapidly going out of condition.    The approaches to some of the rock routes (bergschrunds and gullies) are also deteriorating and it is advised to consult the Office de Haute Montagne, the hut wardens or the guides etc, for the latest information.

- Albert 1^er: The Copt and Table couloirs are now out of condition for the season.  The Migot Spur is not to be recommended. The Forbes Arete remains feasible, despite some ice, (2 ice axes and some ice screws recommended).  The descent from the Chardonnet is OK for the moment.  The normal routes on the Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and Aiguille du Tour are OK but take care on the glacier and while crossing the bergschrunds.

- Argentière: The rock routes are free of snow.  Awaiting information on other routes, though they look to be very dry.

- Charpoua : The hut is open and the climbing conditions are good in this sector. A party has done the Petit Dru, (there and back) and the traverse looks feasible.  The glacier goes OK for the moment.  The approach to the hut is via the new ladders situated just before the Egralets.  Those opposite Montenvers were removed last year. Access to the Flammes de Pierre involves several pitches of climbing, abseiling on return, (the line is a bit to the right of the « old » way directly opposite Montenvers; topo available from the OHM. From Montenvers, please use the ladders and do not go via the ice caves.

- Couvercle: The Whymper Couloir is no longer feasible.  Rock climbing is the main activity for this sector, though the Courtes traverse is OK, if there is a good freeze and that one starts very early.  The moraine on the approach to Egralets is in bad condition and appears to be dangerous.  Use the new approach to be found a little earlier on the Mer de Glace.

The Jardin Ridge goes well for the moment as does the Grands Montets ridge, with some ice on the N side, (cable car shut.) The descent by the Moine ridge is still about 80% snow and technical. Also, the bergschrund is very wide.

- Leschaux: The rock near the hut is in condition including the Petites Jorasses (Anouk).  There is still snow on the top third of the N face of the. Grandes Jorasses but it is melting rapidly.
- Requin: Climbing above the hut, with the approaches being good.  Some parties have gone up the Valley Blanche.  Nobody on the Midi-Plan

- Envers des Aiguilles: Lots of activity in this sector.  Access and route conditions OK.

- Torino: Rock climbs in good condition but the approaches to some of the routes on the Tacul satelittes are becoming more awkward.   Traverse of the Aiguilles Marbrées and the Entrêves are being done. On the Tour Ronde, the SE ridge intergral is in condition.  Good conditions for the Dent du Géant but the Rochefort Ridge is awkward.  The traverse of the Valley Blanche towards the Aig du Midi is OK but care needed as some of the snow bridges are becoming weak.  Parties on the Kuffner by the direct approach but conditions are not great and it is still corniced in places.

- Cosmiques: With the heat, activity is mainly centered on the rock climbs.  The first pitch of the Chéré couloir is totally dry.  The Contamines Mazeaud and Grisolle look to be feasible, (given good freezing,) but the bergschrunds are big.  One party on the Pilier des 3 Pointes, supposedly in good condition.  Nobody on the Gervasutti Pillar, but looks like it should go.  The 3 Monts is popular.   The traverse of the Pointes Lachenal has been abandoned in favour of the Laurence and Cosmiques Aretes.

- Plan de l’Aiguille: The rocks in this sector are dry and in condition, though crampons may be necessary for some snow patches. Charmoz-Grépon in good condition but the Nantillons glacier will soon no longer be feasible.  Parties on the Frendo Spur, no further information other than the left exit being favoured.

- Grands Mulets:  No longer feasible with skis but conditions remain OK on foot. The Jonction goes well, (follow the higher line of indicators). The snow bridges in the bowl below the hut need care. The N ridge of the Dôme is in condition despite some ice, (no need yet to pitch it).

- Goûter: With the hot weather, the danger of stonefall has increased and it is very important to cross the Great couloir before the afternoon.  Work is being carried out on the rail track between Mont Lachat and the Nid Aigle and it is forbidden to walk on/near the track before 1/12/2017,  (by municipal order.). 

- Plan Glacier / Durier : Lancherons Ridge is dry and the glacier OK for the approach to the Durier hut.  Mettrier ridge is very dry. Bionnassay traverse in generally good condition, despite several cornices.  

- Conscrits: It is best to approach the hut by the suspension bridge footpath, rather than by the glacier.  Central peak of Dôme via the col des Dômes, (there and back) in good condition but the traverse is more awkward. There is a 20m section of bare ice that is very narrow and needs to be passed “a cheval”. Descent to the Bérangère has some ice, which can be by-passed for the moment.   Mont Tondu is in condition, with some ice, easily avoided. Traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête is condition but with an ice pitch at the summit of the N peak.

- Monzino: conditions perfect for the rock routes.  Parties on the Innominata, no further information. The Brouillard Ridge intergral was done on 16/17 June.  Some snow after the Col Rey then inconsistent snow on the exit from the S face and in the exit gully.

Without doubt the conditions will change over the coming days as result of the heatwave. Take care!

 The Chamoniarde ( http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=1857&lang=en ), looks forward to your reports to help with future updates….

Report 13th June 2017

Some news of mountain conditions during this period of heat and sun, with night time re-freezing either very weak or non-existent.  It is important to respect the time of day and chose routes not affected by the warm conditions.  With the heat, the paths at mid altitude are becoming free from snow. At mid altitudes, the heat is clearing the snow from the footpaths.

Hiking:
Though the snow is rapidly disappearing, some paths, namely those N facing, remain awkward.  No problems with the Plan d’Aiguille to Montenvers traverse.  The Planpraz lift is open but the Flegere lift only opens on the 17^th June.  No problems going to the Col Cornu and back but there is still snow on the path to the Col de la Glière and the lakes in this area remained covered. The Chésery Lakes are accessible and reappearing from under the snow.  However, there is still a lot of snow towards Lac Blanc, which remains iced over.

Because of work being carried out, it is forbidden to use the approach to Flégère by the main track, (Lanchers piste,) including all the paths that cross it, until 28^th July, (Council decision)..  This also means there is no access via the Floria Cafe

Some snow remains on the last part up to the Jonction, take care!

Condition are much improved for the Tour du Mont Blanc, though some sections still demand care and good equipment.

Alpinism:
- Albert 1er:  Until the lifts open this coming weekend, the approach to the hut is either by the moraine or by Charmillon.  On the Chardonnet, the Forbes Ridge and the Migot Spur have been climbed; some ice not in good condition but basically OK.  No particular problems experienced on the descent by the normal route.  The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are in good condition.  The first third of the Table Couloir is dry, making the Table Ridge a better choice.   The Copt couloir was climbed on 10/06; there is an ice section in the middle, though conditions OK for the moment by keeping to the left.  

- Argentière: No information for the moment.

- Couvercle: climbing has started on the Moine, (normal route and S ridge,) the Nonne and the Evêque. The Whymper Coulir is still being climbed but conditions are deteriorating, the final ridge has become narrow and with soft snow.  A party completed the Couturier, where the conditions seem to remain OK for the moment.  The normal route on the Droites is tracked, as is part of the Courtes traverse.  The Pointe Isabelle remains feasible, though several of the snow bridges are becoming delicate.  Nobody has attempted Jardin Ridge yet and it does not look like crossing the bergschrund will be feasible for much longer.  

- Leschaux:  The hut is open; approach by the new ladders, taking care on the moraine.  The traverse from the Couvercle is OK, even though several snow patches remain. No problems for the approach to the Périades.  The Petites Jorasses looks to be in good condition.  There is still too much snow on the Walker Spur, (Grande Jorasses.)

- Le Requin: Good climbing in this sector, (Renaudie, Congo Star, Pierre Alain normal route, Chapeau à Cornes). Crevasses are appearing on the way back up the Valley Blanche, take care with snow bridges weakened by the heat.

- Envers des Aiguilles: The hut should open on the 16th June.  There are still a few snow patches between the ladders and the hut.  Some routes have been climbed recently in this sector but no further information.  The rock looks to be free of snow. 

- Torino:  A lot of activity in this sector; with the Marbrées and Entrêves traverses, Dent du Géant, Rochefort Arete (very narrow in places,) and the SE Ridge, N face and Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde in condition for the moment.  Parties are rock climbing on the Tacul satelittes.  The Kuffner ridge has been done but there are large cornices after the Androsace.and the warden recommends waiting still for better conditions.
The Brenva Spur has also been done, the bergschrund could prove awkward.  Theoretically, there should be no problems for the Aiguilles du Diable.

- Cosmiques:  Traverse of the Valley Blanche and the 3 Monts in condition.  There has been activity on the Contamine routes and the Chere couloir, (Tacul Triangle).  The bergschrund on the Grisolle is awkward.  Lots of parties on the Cosmiques Ridge and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal. A party turned back on the Midi-Plan because of poor re-freezing.
Good rock climbing conditions in this sector.

- Plan de l’Aiguille:  Parties climbing on the Aig d’M and the Peigne, crampons useful for the snow patches.  The Frendo Spur and the Mallory-Porter have been done, no further information.

- Grands Mulets: Though it is still just possible to do Mont Blanc with skis, it is now better on foot.  The traverse of the Jonction requires care but is still OK for the moment; (though becareful not to return too late in the day.)  Very good conditions for the N Ridge of the Dôme with only 2 x 15m sections of ice. The N face of Mont Blanc is in bad condition.

- Goûter:  Very popular, with good conditions for the Mont Blanc normal route. Be aware of the time of day and the risk of stonefall in the Grand Couloir.  The cable is now in place in the couloir.

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- Plan Glacier: The Mettrier Ridge intégrale is mostly dry, crampons needed for the last 400 metres.  There are some snow patches on the hut approach from the Col de Tricot, but none that cause a problem.

- Conscrits: The summer approach path is nearly completely free of snow and OK for properly equipped hikers.  There is a very good track on the Dômes de Miage, which has a narrow and airy section on the traverse. Mont Tondu and the traverse of the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête have been done in OK conditions. 
No information for the Bionnassay ridge, though it will certainly have been done.  Attention, however, with the poor re-freezing conditions.  

- Robert Blanc:  Good conditions for the alpinists, though snow remains on some of the footpaths.  Crampons and experience needed for crossing the Col du Bonhomme.