news blog

Report 7th June 2017

After the last few days of stormy weather, the forecast is now better. Since last weekend there has been about 30cm of new snow at 4000m and about 10cm at 2700m. At altitude, the snow is very windblown and the tracks have disappeared, for example on the Tacul.  The rock routes have a dusting of snow and will need a few days before they are dry again.

Activity in the high mountain is gradually starting again.

- Albert 1^er Sector:  The approach to the hut remains by the moraine.  The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the Table Ridge (Tour) should be feasible. The Forbes Ridge looks to be in condition.

- Argentière Sector:  No information.

- Couvercle Sector: This morning (7th June) there was 10cm of wet snow at the hut.  Skis or Snow shoes are no longer necessary so long as one is away and back early enough.  The lower part of the Whymper is dry with danger of stonefall.  It is too early in the season for rock routes in this sector.

- Torino: 20cm of new snow with a wind predominantly from the North.  Parties left this morning for the Dent du Geant and the Aiguilles d’Entrêves.  The “Panoramic” bubbles are due to start running on Thursday (8th June).

- Cosmiques: about 20cm of new snow with strong winds this morning, mainly from the west.  The Laurence Ridge, the Cosmiques Ridge, the Pointes Lachenal traverse and the Chéré Couloir are all feasible.  Take care, there is a lot of unstable snow on the slopes of the Tacul.  

- Grands Mulets: about 15cm of fresh, melting snow. The traverses from the Plan de l’Aiguille and the Bossons glacier remain OK but it is necessary to carry the skis in several places and some sections on the glacier require care.

- Goûter: several parties left for the summit this morning.  The Bellevue cable car is due to open on Saturday (10th June), which will make the approach to the normal route up Mont Blanc easier.   The cable has not yet been re-installed for the traverse of the Grand Couloir.

- Les Conscrits: conditions are looking good.  Parties left for the Bérangère this morning.  The summer approach to the hut, (via the suspension bridge) is open but crampons and ice axe are essential. The approach by the glacier remains feasible but it is necessary to go to the very end of the “Mauvais Pas” to cross the torrent.

Conditions on the hiking trails have not changed much with problems starting above 2200/2300m. Good equipment is needed, especially for the Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB), i.e. good mountain boots, hiking poles, gaiters and possibly crampons.  The Col du Bonhomme, the Arp Vieille traverse towards Chécrouit and the Grand Col Ferret are the crux sections.

Above the Chamonix valley, the lakes at altitude are still under snow.  Nearer to Servoz, the Pormenaz lake can be approached via La Chorde but there is still a lot of snow on the route from Pormenaz chalets.
Some snow patches remain on the Grand Balcon Nord traverse but these should not be a problem for the well equipped walker.

The Planpraz lift is due to open this weekend.  There is still a lot of snow in this sector, especially if north facing.  Avoid travelling too “light”.   

Report 29 May 2017

The latest information following the good weather over the Ascension holiday weekend.

With the recent high temperatures, the snow has been rapidly melting at the mid altitudes.  Nonetheless, there is still a lot of snow above 2200 / 2300m.   

With good mountain boots and walking poles, the Cheserys lakes are now accessible.  However, the paths to Lac Blanc remain snowbound.  Though some lakes are beginning to reappear, (e,g. Jovet lakes),  most are still covered

The bigger hiking objectives, such as Mont Buet or the “Jonction”, are still not feasible .
The snow starts at around 1700m in the Berard valley.  The Albert 1er hut is best approached from Vormaine via the moraine, the snow starting some 50m below the hut. There is still far too much snow to traverse in from Charmillion

People are starting to walk the Grand Balcon Nord. Careful, there are some large patches of hard snow and one needs to be properly equipped.  The path from Chamonix to the Plan de l’Aiguille is OK but the Pré du Rocher path is not.
No particular problems for the Bellachat and the Aiguillette des Houches.

Conditions are improving for the Tour du Mont Blanc but the right equipment remains essential. 

The ski touring season is virtually over at mid altitudes, though there are still some possibilities in the Emosson dam area, (Pointe de la Terrasse – Pointe des Charmoz).
Following the several days of hot weather, skiing the Valley Blanche is no longer to be recommended.

In the high mountain there has also been a rise in temperatures and the rock routes are becoming free of snow. (Respect the time of day and the limited re-freezing.)

- Les Conscrits: The Dômes de Miage and the Aiguille de la Bérangère remain popular. The ski touring has basically finished in this sector. The traverse of the Bionnassay was done in generally good conditions.

- Plan Glacier: No problems for the approach from the Chalets de Miage. The Mettrier ridge intergral was done recently.  The lower part was dry, conditions improved afterwards.
With better re-freezing, the Dômes de Miage N Face should come into condition; there is very little bare ice at the moment. The approach to the Durier hut via the Lancherons is tracked and nearly all on snow.

- Mont Blanc: the Italian route via Gonella is tracked and in good condition.  The Tournette Spur was done on 25/05 in generally good conditions. The Gouter route is also being done (the train and cable car remain closed).  Respect the time of day for crossing the Grand couloir.
3 Monts from the Cosmiques is tracked, conditions good, but still with a bit of ice at the Mont Maudit col.
Parties are continuing to ski the Grands Mulets route, (by the N ridge of the Dome and the Plateaux). The N Face of Mont Blanc is still being skied.  Conditions for the traverse of the Jonction are worsening, with some fragile snow bridges. It is now necessary to carry the skis in several places to reach the Plan de l’Aiguille.

- Plan de l’Aiguille:  Eugster Diagonal and Frendo Spur (left exit) have been climbed, no further information.  Likewise, for the Papillons Arete.

- Cosmiques: Climbing on the Tacul Triangle including the Contamine Négri, (quite a lot of ice,) the Grisolle and the Chéré. Start early and check the freezing conditions!  The Laurence Arete, the Cosmiques Arete and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal are all in good condition.
The rock routes exposed to the sun are free of snow, except on the larger ledges.

- Torino: generally good conditions except for the gullies and the normal route on the Tour Ronde. The Diables Ridge has been climbed despite still having a lot of snow.

- Requin: There is about 1h30 of walking to reach Montenvers and the Brèche Puiseux is no longer recommended, (ice/rock in the middle).  The Requin hut is reached by the ladders. The way back up to the Aiguille du Midi is OK but beware of fragile snow bridges.

- Couvercle: approach by the Egralets. Parties have climbed the Whymper and the Col Armand Charlet. The normal route on the Droites looks feasible.  The traverse from the NE of the Courtes has been done. Descent of the Talèfre face by the Col des Droites OK.  A party has done the Couturier, some sections of ice but mostly good by keeping to the right, (looking upwards). Snow shoes useful for the approaches.  It is too early for the rock routes in this sector.

- Argentière: No further information other than the Couturier and NE of the Courtes mentioned above.

- Albert 1er: Good conditions for the normal route on the Aiguille du Tour despite the poor re-freezing. The Migot Spur and the Forbes Ridge look to be in condition.

- Good conditions reported for Mont Dolent, normal route and the Gallet ridge.

The Via Corda on the Rochers des Mottets has not been re-equipped after being vandalised for a second time last year. The Via Corda at Argentiere, (opened July 2016,) provides an alternative.

Report 16th May 2017

Here is the latest news of what has been happening during this spell of good weather.  Following the series of snowfalls, skis or snow shoes are necessary in the high mountain.  Temperatures are rising significantly and conditions are changing rapidly.  Be warned, avalanches are likely, (especially in the afternoon,) on susceptible slopes that have not yet purged.

Mont Blanc was climbed yesterday by the Grands  Mulets.  The Jonction is good on skis.  On the N ridge of the Dôme, the ice is never far from the surface, despite the recent snow, (technical axe and good crampons, with parties short roping.)   The Mont Blanc N face has been skied.  Parties left this morning on skis for the ascent by the Trois Monts.  No news concerning the normal route, (Gouter).

Cosmiques Sector: the Cosmiques ridge, Lolo (Laurence?) ridge and Pointes Lachenal traverse have been done.  The approaches to these routes are tracked and accessible on foot.  On the Tacul Triangle, the Chere couloir has inevitably been climbed. Yesterday, a party climbed the Contamine Négri and skied down the Gervasutti couloir, (no info on conditions.)  The Gervasutti Pillar at the Tour Ronde was climbed. (N.B. the Skyway Monte Bianco closed this week until 19th May inclusive.)
Conscrits Sector: the skiing starts at the glacier.  This morning the Domes de Miage and Mont Tondu were tracked. The Col des Glaciers was done yesterday, skiing down by the Dôme de Neige.
Plan Glacier Sector: skiing starts around 2000m on the approach to the hut.  The N face of the Domes was tracked and skied on Sunday, (the skiing started 50m below the summit due to a lack of snow at the top of the face.)

Couvercle Sector:  three choices for the approach to the hut, by the ladders, by the central couloir, (dry low down) or by the Pierre à Bérenger. Lots of avalanches have been seen in the area.  This morning, parties left for the Whymper Couloir and the col de Talèfre.

No information for the Albert 1er and Argentière sectors.  These huts are not staffed and the lifts are closed.

For Hikers: the S facing slopes below 2000m are mainly dry but above this there is plenty of snow.  On the N facing slopes the snow level is much lower with deep snow at 2000m.  Check the altitude of your proposed hike and adapt your equipment accordingly.  The mountain lakes remain snow covered.  The hiking season is only just starting, patience needed.

Report 13th May 2017

Since the May 5th update, it has snowed at altitude together with winds from the S/SW.  The rain/snow limit was about 2500m. This morning, Saturday, the Chamonix Aiguilles are plastered with snow following last night’s precipitations, (without wind.) 
As stated in the last update, the hiking remains feasible up to 1900m for the N facing and 2000m for the S facing slopes.
Concerning ski touring, there has been activity in the Emosson area since the opening of the road up to the dam, e.g. Pointe de la Terrasse, Cheval Blanc.
The Couvercle, Conscrits, Grands Mulets, Requin, Albert 1er and Plan de l’Aiguille huts are open.  It is recommended to telephone in advance. See http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=57 for the contact details.