Interview by Adele Long
How long have you been a member of the AC?
I became a member of the Alpine Climbing Group in 1972, which was then part of the AC. It wasn't until 1977, when someone asked me to propose them for the AC and the membership secretary at the time said ‘you can't do that, mate, you’re not an AC member!’, that I joined the AC.
Uisdean Hawthorn and Tom Livingstone went to the Central Alaska Range for 7 weeks in May/June 2017. Unfortunately they were unsuccessful in all their objectives (a new route on the Father and Sons Wall, reaching the summit of Mt. Hunter/Begguya via the Moonflower, and the Slovak Direct on Denali).
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Jack Jackson.
Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
It is with sadness that we report the death of Club Member Donald Barr-Wells.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
The Avellano Towers are an incredible place in the Patagonian wilderness of Chile. Taking Jim Donini up on his offer of, “something a little different”, 5 years ago is one of the best things I’ve ever done.
Interview by Stuart Worsfold
How did it all start for you with climbing? Did your parents climb as well or were they just walkers?
I got into the outdoors through walking with my parents, but they didn't do any climbing. Walking up Snowdon would be an extreme expedition for them. In fact, I didn't really like walking when I was small, especially if I could see how far I had to walk, so they find what I do now quite amusing.
Members are invited to take part in the Club’s 2018 photo competition.
The AC / CC Ice Meet in L’Argentiere La Bessee started out with 3 days of appalling weather, raining at valley level and dumping lots of snow higher up. The main areas of Fornell and Freissenieres were not easily accessible. At this stage the trip was already spoilt by the loss of our leader to the flu. Smiler couldn’t come. By the end of day three everyone had found something to climb or ski on but spirits were low. Then it all changed. Clear skies and lower temperatures brought a smile to everyones faces.
Elizabeth Hawley, for most mountaineers on their way to climb in the Nepalese Himalaya, was like a venerable aunt you did not want to cross. She was made an Honourary Member of the Alpine Club in 2013. Many expedition leaders will remember a knock on their Kathmandu hotel door that awoke them from a jet lagged slumber. "Miss Hawley is waiting downstairs to see you sir," the deskman would say. Liz knew when you were in town and where. She would greet you cordially in a crisp, no nonsense American accent that spoke of both an excellent education and impeccable manners. She was a petite woman with aquiline features, glasses always perched halfway down her nose. Peering over those glasses, her eyes interrogated you as much as her questions. She never missed a chance to extract every ounce of information about your plans over tea and toast. In return, Liz gave us the latest news; who was where; doing what; tips on unexpected access or porter problems.
Oberland, Switzerland
Saturday 23rd June - Saturday 7th July
Details of the Oberland Meet are now confirmed. Aimed at all members, both aspirant members who are looking to gain more experience with a view to completing their AC 20 alpine peaks, and full members who might have taken a break from alpine climbing and are looking to return to the action. The meet is aimed at all skill levels, and the Bernese Oberland is a great location for picking off numerous PD routes, and for developing an alpine CV.
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Richard Gilbert.
Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
The ACG/YAG winter meet was a great success with teams getting out on both days of the weekend. Mixed classics such as North Buttress on the Buachaille, Neanderthal in the Lost Valley, Chimney Route, Original Route, Scabbard Chimney, Crest Climb on Stob Coire, Flake Route and Crypt Route on Church Door Buttress and Cutlass on the Ben were climbed.
The Alex Mac hut is booked for the weekend of 13th/14th of January for the January Young Alpinist/Alpine Climbing Group winter meet.
Mountain Landscape: |
|
| Commended: | |
| Vanishing Castle | Andrey Golovachev |
| Kitchen Views | Ben Thorne |
| Highly Commended: | |
| Go with the Floe | Andrey Golovachev |
| Third: | |
| Biancograt | Tony Westcott |
| Second: | |
| Atmosphere on the Aretes de Rochefort | Tom Hare |
| First: | |
| Matterhorn from Hirli | Ben Tibbetts |
Mountain Action: |
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| Commended: | |
| On Dables Arete of Tacul | Ben Tibbetts |
| Scotland comes to the Ecrins | Tom Hare |
| Highly Commended: | |
| On Peuterey | Ben Tibbetts |
| Third: | |
| Walking on the glass | Andrey Golovachev |
| Second: | |
| On Kuffner, Mont Blanc | Ben Tibbetts |
| First: | |
| On Innominata Ridge, Mont Blanc | Ben Tibbetts |
After a multi-day trek up the steep Sumur Lungpa to establish a base camp by the Sumur Lakes at 5,160m, Derek, Drew, Rafal and Howard made the first ascent of Point 6068 via its technically easy SW slopes (Alpine F) on 18th September following an arduous 5h of post-holing from a high camp at 5,743m. Deceptively, this top turned out to be the high point of three convergent ridges rather than a true peak per se and was thus called Deception Point. We were unable to get a Ladakhi translation. Only roped glacier travel was required.
AC Honorary Member Harish Kapadia has just been presented with the Asian Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the celebrations in Seoul, Korea.
News has reached us of the untimely death of Club Member Lt Col Simon Hall MBE RM.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
It is with great sadness that we report the death in New Zealand on 30th October of Honorary Member Norman Hardie, a member of the team to first ascend Kangchenjunga in 1955 and past President of the New Zealand Alpine Club.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website
The Alpine Club is deeply saddened by the news that AC Honorary Member Fred Beckey has died at the age of 94. A climber who had an unparalleled number of first ascents to his name, right across the US.
''But in the end, its really the selection of climbs that tell us the most about the world's most accomplished climber. Beckey's favorite climbs are defined by purity of line, position, and quality of movement - not difficulty. Fred's new book makes me really appreciate his innate ability to choose nature's most beautiful lines'' Mark Kroese writing in both the AAJ 2012 and the AJ 2013.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
