Congratulations to David Hempleman-Adams, a member since 1995, on his appointment to Knight Commander of the Royal Victorian order (KCVO) in the Queen’s New Year Honours in recognition of his services, as a Trustee for 10 years, to the Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Scheme.
2017 has started as 2016 finished, still no precipitation!
The gullies remain very bare, and technically much more difficult than usual.
The Mallory-Porter on the N face of the Aiguille du Midi has been climbed, with passages of ice, notably on the exit. There were no problems with the approach.
The Chéré Couloir has also been climbed, (no further information.)
The routes being done near the Torino hut are the same as reported in the last update.
For the Argentiere sector, the Chevalier gully is being climbed, (bergschrund fairly wide, the gully itself OK, with mixed climbing to exit.) The Pépite gully is “dry” and the Couturier has passages of ice which are getting ever longer.
Descending the Whymper is becoming more difficult as the number of bare ice sections increase.
Conditions for ski and ski touring in this sector have got worse. A decision has been taken that only alpinists on foot can use the Grands Montets top cable car.
It is probably best to go to Italy or the Grand Bernard pass for ski touring. People have been out, however, to the Pointe de la Terrase area, starting from Finhaut/Emosson.
We remind you that the road up to Emosson is officially closed to vehicles.
The ice climbing conditions are slowly improving.
Climbing continues at the Crémerie, the Déferlante, Noix de Samba and Mini Couloir as well as the new sector, “Les Dents de la Mer”, (true left bank.)
Parties have been seen on the Grand Bleu et Mer de Rêve, (true right bank.)
There is also climbing next to the Cascade de Bérard.
For Cogne, see the www.hotellabarme.com website for more information.
The Fallo di Plutone icefall is out of bounds due to bearded vulture nesting.
Conditions for walking remain difficult and potentially dangerous above 1800/2000m. Hikers starting from the lifts need to be experienced and have good boots, crampons, hiking poles and eventually an ice axe for some areas.
The snow has become very hard and even on the lower paths there maybe passages of ice.
There is still no forecast for a significant dump of snow.
The temperature is expected to drop dramatically over the next few days, with a strong northerly wind at altitude.
Though more snow is desperately needed, we continue to enjoy a period of good weather, with the minor exception of the passage of some clouds and wind at altitude.
This stable weather means conditions have hardly changed and the routes being done at altitude are basically the same as those mentioned in the previous report, (17th Dec).
Some additional information:
Parties are rock climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges, e.g. on the Index and Aiguille de la Persévérance. Crampons and ice axes may be needed for the approaches. The valley crags remain easily accessible, e.g. Barberine and the Gaillands.
Several ski tours have been reported despite the thin conditions: the Brevent to the Aiguillette des Houches and back, Crochues/Bérard and the Buet (long portage and crampons essential.)
In the Argentière basin, the Col d’Argentière appears to be the best option, the appoaches to the other routes lacking snow. The return to Lognan remains awkward. No news about the N faces or the gullies other than black ice being reported on the Petite Verte normal route.
Conditions for the icefalls are starting to improve and some of the lines on the Crémerie and the true left bank of the Argentière, (approach from above,) are being climbed.
Avoid top roping at the Crémerie, as there is a danger of falling ice from parties above.
No change for the Aiguille du Midi and the Torino hut sectors. Conditions OK to good for the Tour Ronde N face and the traverse of the Marbrées.
The gullies remain very dry for the season.
Conditions for the Chéré are OK, except for the first pitch. The gullies on the N side of the Cosmiques ridge are not in condition. The Frendo and the Mallory/Porter have been climbed, (no further information.).
The Vallée Blanche is not practical.
Though the lack of snow means conditions are generally bad for winter sports, the snow/ice on the hiking trails above 1800/2000m can pose problems and the advice given in the previous report remains valid.
The signposted snow shoe trails in the valley floor lack snow, but can be walked, (care with the ice patches.) Higher up, there are signposted trails for snow shoeing from the top of the Index and Prarion lifts. For the more experienced, the Carlaveyron plateau, from the Brevent and back, has potential.
Some of the Balme/Vallorcine lifts are open giving access to hikes between the Aiguillette des Posettes and the Col de Balme. The snow is very hard and may require crampons in addition to good boots and walking poles.
THIS MEET IS NOW FULL
In 2017 the Alpine Club will return to the Anti Atlas of Morocco for more adventure trad climbing. The meet will have 12 places and take place 7-17 October, split between the Kasbah Tizourgane and the Hotel Argana in Tafraout. Participants should be competent leaders and aware of the remoteness of the region. Please contact Nicholas Smith This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to reserve one of the few remaining places.
To see the 2016 report for a taste! CLICK HERE
Here is the latest information, prior to the end of year holidays:
There have been no major changes to the conditions since the last update, they remain very dry for the time of year.
Albert 1er sector: Parties have gone for the Aiguille du Tour (no further information) and the Migot Spur on the Chardonnet, where conditions are not ideal especially at the bergschrund and on the descent. Snowshoes used for the approach.
Argentière sector: Ski tourers are doing the Cols du Tour Noir and Argentière. There is not much snow in the lower parts and care is needed, (moraines, crevasses).
The return to the Lognan is awkward and not skiable all the way.
A party went for the NNE of the Courtes, (no further information). Another party turned back at the Petit Viking bergschrund, judged to be too difficult to cross. The Pépite gully was climbed in dry conditions. The Chevallier gully has been climbed. The Couturier Couloir, (direct finish) is OK, (changing snow quality throughout), keeping to the true left side, with 60m of ice near the top. Descent by the Whymper keeping to the left bank, the upper part being ice in the middle for about 150m. The secondary gully is fairly dry, 3 abseils of 30m, bergshrund passable on the true right.
The Y Gully and the Glacier du Milieu have also been climbed, but not without problems as the lower sections are dry. Cornices present on the summit ridge.
For those into ice climbing, the Crèmerie and Déferlante are slowly coming into condition.
Aiguille du Midi / Mer de Glace/ Torino sector:
The Midi cable car opened on the 17th, so we are expecting reports of conditions for the Tacul and Aig du Midi gullies soon.
Near the Torino, the N face of the Tour Ronde remains OK, as does the normal route. “Winter” climbing is also taking place on the Aiguilles Marbrées, the Entrêves and the Dent du Géant.
At least one party has been on the Pierre-Allain on the Dru, (no further information.)
The Grandes Jorasses are not in condition, (« font grise mine… »)
Parties have gone for Mont Blanc by the Goûter, the approach to the Gouter hut is mixed, as if it was the start of the summer. No information about the rest of the route, (e.g. the crevasse between the Bosses and the summit.)
Dômes de Miage and the Aiguille de la Bérangère have been done recently on foot. Approach from Cugnon and then via the Mauvais Pas (lots of ice) and the Tré la Tête glacier, (fairly dry but without any notable problems.).
Concerning ski touring, the choice is limited with most of the activity taking place at higher altitudes in the Mont Blanc range.
The Aig Rouges lifts are have just opened, but we do not have any further information yet. Likewise, there is no information for the Mt Buet, though certainly you will have to carry the skis for most of the Berard valley, (crampons essential.)
No information from the Emosson sector. Despite the rumours, the road is officially closed after Finhaut and it is forbidden to drive up it even if it looks feasible.
The conditions appear to be better on the Italy, for example, the Grand Paradiso.
Lastly, for the hikers:
Conditions at altitude are difficult and potentially dangerous. This includes the paths higher than 1800 to 2000m. One is strongly advised against hiking the Grands Balcons (north and south,) or up to the higher lakes.
The Loriaz hut is open and accessible by the forest track, needs good boots and walking poles. (Skis and snowshoes a waste of time.)
There is a lot of ice on the paths in the Berard valley; crampons necessary. The “Cascade de Bérard” buvette will be open all winter from 10h to17h and will open in the evening if reserved.
The Merlet Animal Park opens for the Christmas holidays: 19th to 23rd and 26th to 30th Dec. from 12h to 16h.
There are no problems with hiking in the valley floor.
During this difficult time, caution is required and you need to adapt your plans in line with the prevailing conditions.
Please do not forget to send in a report of your activities to the Office de Haute Montagne, to help with the next conditions update.
Congratulations to Steve Hartland - First Brit to complete the UIAA list of 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps.
Steve Hartland, a member of the ACG/AC since 1990, and British Mountain Guide from Chamonix, has successfully completed the UIAA list of 82 x 4000metre peaks in the Alps in August 2016.
The period of high pressure continues, giving no new snow and very dry conditions.
The dryness combined with the higher than usual temperatures means the icefalls have not formed yet, both at Cogne and the Chamonix valley. Best to leave your axes and crampons in the cupboard for a bit longer!
N.B. The area around the “Fallo di Plutone” icefall is out of bounds for the season because of bird nesting. (Bearded vulture).
There has not been much information concerning the mountain routes. Most areas remain very dry and so the gullies are not in condition.
The Aiguille du Midi remains closed until the 17th. The Skyway and the Torino hut has been open since last week.
It has been reported that the Aiguilles Marbrées and the Aiguilles d’Entrêves have been traversed in wintery conditions, (hence more technical.) The N face of the Tour Ronde has been climbed in OK conditions, the bergshrund not presenting a problem, especially on the left. The gully section contains “aerated” ice, but is still protectable. The final 30 to 40m are on very hard snow. The descent was by the “true” normal route, with one short abseil. This route is also being done in ascent. The Gervasutti Couloir does not look inviting and the Rebuffat Gully looks very dry.
The Valéria gully was done on 4/12 in difficult conditions. The Maudit sector is dry, the crux on the Baxter gully, (Mt Maudit) is bare, Laratoune, (behind the Grand Cap) dry and the SuperCouloir is as dry as it was in August.
As for the Albert 1er sector, one can start skiing at around 2000m, but conditions are reported to be poor. A party did the Grand Fourche on 4/12, mainly on crusty snow, though conditions were a bit better on the exposed slopes.
A party was seen leaving for the Chardonnet, but no further information.
Concerning the Argentière sector, the Grands Montets top station is open.
The gullies in this area look dry and there is no information about recent ascents.
The Col d’Argentière appears to be the best choice for ski tourers. The Col du Tour has also been done, though the snow cover is poor at the level of the moraine. The return down the glacier to Lognan is awkward and requires taking off the skis in places.
The Dolent was done 8/12 from La Fouly/La Léchère. There is about 30min walking before one can put on the skis. Conditions were generally good. The traverse between the Col du Petit Ferret the Bivouac Fiorio was in good condition. The rest of the route was also OK, with hard snow in the upper part and the final slope to the summit being done on foot. The ski back down in the afternoon was reasonable.
The Y gully on the Aiguille Verte was climbed on 6/12. The bergschrund went on the right, and there was no snow at the foot of the gully (smooth slab of 1.5m). This was followed by a series of ice steps for 100m then a steep snow gully on the left for 20m before exiting on the left on mixed ground. The descent was by the Whymper, without major problems. The bergschrund was crossed on the true right. Lower down on the glacier there is a huge crevasse which was by-passed by going up towards the start of Moine Ridge. Return by the Egralets.
For the moment. snow shoes are unnecessary at the mid altitudes. However, good hiking boots and sticks are needed and crampons could prove useful, or even essential, in places. Below 2000m on southern slopes and 1700m on the northern ones, there should be no problems. The areas around the Lac Vert/ Ayères, the Prarion, the Chailloux chalets and Loriaz huts are all feasible for hikers. There is potentially some danger higher up, for example: Lac Blanc and the Chéserys, and these areas are not recommended during this period of seasonal change.
Walks in the valley floor such as the Petit Balcon Sud, the Floria, Charousse as well as Mottets or Chapeau, are perfectly OK for the moment.
The same is true for climbing at Barberine and at the Gaillands.
Fresh snow is not expected in the immediate future, so it may be necessary to adapt your plans accordingly.
As always, the OHM looks forward to receiving your route reports so that they can be included in the next update.
The meet took place in the club’s new hut, the George Starky Hut in Patterdale. This has often been the venue for the meet, in previous years, but for the first time, we are part owners of the premises. Although the meet official runs from Friday evening, several people arrived on Thursday, with Nick Smith and Nigel Bassam climbing Kestrel Wall S and Sobrenada VS 4c on Eagle Crag Grisedale on Thursday.
It sounds like an invitation to go and climb a mountain - and that’s what I’ll probably do, some modest little top in the English Lake District will have to suffice. Maybe there’ll be snow.
But it would be missing the point to think that this UN-designated special day is primarily about climbing. How self-absorbed can you get? No, as of 2003, the 11th of December has been observed every year “to create awareness about the importance of mountains to life, to highlight the opportunities and constraints in mountain development and to build alliances that will bring positive change to mountain peoples and environments around the world”.
Those are the UN’s words. No mention of climbing or alpinism, though it is clear from the excellent International Mountain Day website produced by the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation that events and activities in mountain areas play an important in raising awareness. Many are planned around the world for Sunday.
Stephen Goodwin's report to AC the committee on the UIAA general assembly held in Bressanone (Brixen) Italy, October 2016
The report can be viewed here
To see some pictures of Messner receiving his award read on.
The "Southern Sandstone Weekend" was an informal open-to-all gathering to coincide with the AC's September Committee meeting held near Tunbridge Wells. For committee members this left a few hours on Saturday, on which to sample the delights of vertical or overhanging ball-bearings, and all day Sunday. For some it was an initiation test, for others it was revisiting venues that they'd been trying to forget about for years. The rest, wisely, paced themselves to cope with the Saturday night party.
Our warmest congratulations go to our long standing member Mike Kosterlitz who has been awarded a share of the 2016 Nobel Prize for physics.
Glyn Hughes shares some personal memories of Mike as a mountaineer.:
“After graduating from University in 1963 I spent six weeks in the Dolomites and the Alps before starting work. My main climbing partner on this trip was Mike Kosterlitz, who has just become joint winner of the 2016 Nobel Prize for Physics. This was probably the high point of my climbing career, but just the beginning for Mike. He followed this by becoming one of the leading British climbers in the UK and the Alps at that time, and one of the first to tackle hard routes in Yosemite. Perhaps best known for the Kosterlitz/Isherwood route on Piz Badile (known locally as the ‘via degli Inglesi’, although Mike is of course Scottish), climbed in 1968 when they went off-route on the Corti-Battaglia, and now a classic route of that area.* In 1969 Mike took up a research post at the University of Torino, and during this period pioneered routes in the Orco valley, including the ‘Fessura Kosterlitz’, a notorious test piece for crack climbers. Shortly after this, illness forced him to give up climbing at a very early age, otherwise what more might he have achieved? I met him at a reunion dinner in Cambridge in 2006, and asked him what he was doing now. He started explaining his research work to me, but unfortunately I couldn’t understand a word of it. Presumably the Nobel prize jury did!”
* See Dick Isherwood's account of the climb in AJ 1969.
This Guardian article gives more information about the Nobel prize for physics winners.
Mike Kosterlitz & Oliver Spence on the Yellow Edge on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Photo Glyn Hughes)
Nick Smith has sent us this image of the Morocco AC Meet having breakfast in Tafraout before setting off for a day's climbing in the sun.
There is an autumnal feeling to this first week of October. This morning, (Monday), it was distinctly cool and the Chamonix Aiguilles had a dusting of snow. The snow descended yesterday down to 2300m. At the higher altitudes there were strong winds as the snow fell, with a dozen cms of fresh snow near the Cosmiques Hut and 40 cms near the Torino hut. The wind makes it feel very cold at altitude. During this change in the weather the conditions are slowly evolving but the gullies and ice runnels are not in condition yet. However, those rock routes exposed to the sun remain very pleasant.
At lower altitudes conditions are ideal for hiking. Attention: some work is being done in certain sectors. Consult the Chamoniarde website for more details: http://www.chamoniarde.com/?p=45
Currently we are between seasons. The huts that are still open with a warden are: the Cosmiques until 8th October, the Torino and the Plan d’Aiguille until 1st November and the Loriaz until 15th October. The Aig du Midi and the Skyway (Courmayeur) cable cars will remain open until the 1st November. All the other lifts in the valley are shut.
The ladders leading from the Mer de Glace to the Couvercle are in the process of being partially dismantled
This was the third in the series of Aspirants meets, sponsored by the Alpine Club, situated in the Saas valley of Switzerland, and timed to be after the main tourist hordes have gone home.
Joint with ABMSAC, Climbers’ Club, FRCC, SMC, LSCC, Wayfarers and Yeovil MC
Just over 70 people from 7 clubs and guests attended the meet over the 3 week period and were blessed with good weather for most of the time, what rain there was being short lived.
The campsite in Ailefroide seems to get busier each year and there was a noticeable increase in numbers since the last meet there in 2011 but after the first weekend which was a national holiday in France it did get quieter but still queuing for the showers and the toilets was normal especially at peak.
The campsite being surrounded by granite crags dictated that the rock climbing was more popular than the Alpine climbing and this was reflected in a higher turnout from the more rock oriented clubs such as the CC and the FRCC than on past meets. Many of the multipitch and single pitch routes were climbed as well as frequent forays to the limestone and quartzite climbing areas in the main Durance Valley and side valleys such as Fournel and Fressinieres.
The Barre des Ecrin being the highest peak in the area attracted a lot of attention all by the normal route as the Barre Noire Couloir was out of condition. Other teams climbed Roche Faurio, the SW ridge of Pointe Louise, Roche Paillon, Roche Emile Pic, Pointe des Cineastes, Montagne Des Agneaux, the Traverse of the Glaciers (Pic du Rif & Pointe des Arcas), Dents de Coste Counier, Aiguille de Sialouze, Pelvoux and the traverse of the Meije.
Various via ferrata were ascended including the very spectacular Gorges D’Ailefroide located between Ailefroide and Pelvoux, it traverses the vertical or even overhanging walls of the gorge about 10m above river level and the second part is classed as a “Via Ferrata sportive” in the guide it certainly lives up to that name.
The meet was very sociable starting with an evening soiree on the first weekend so people could get to know each other, again we had the group tent where people could socialise and cook on the few occasions when it did rain, quite a few people came on their own and had no problem finding climbing partners. As people left we had several end of meet dinners at the Hotel Engilberge in the village, they provided very good food and service at a reasonable price.
Next year’s meet will be held in the Bregaglia, Switzerland based at Camping Mulina in the village of Vicosoprano 15 July to 5 August 2017.
http://www.campingbregaglia.ch/en/camping-vicosoprano
I hope to see you all again next year. Keep an eye on the club meets calendar for next year’s venue.
By Keith Lambley
Photopraphs
Top Left; Meije Traverse, Cheval Rouge - Climber John Venier - Photo Andrew Moore
Top Right; Meije Traverse - Climber Andrew Moore - Photo John Venier
Botton Left; Pointe Louise, SE Ridge - Climbers Keith Lambley and Kate Ross - Photo Adam Kassyk
Bottom Right; Super Pilou, Aiguille de Sialouze - Climber Helen Brown - Photo Adam Kassyk
Since 2016 the Alpine Club has had a partnership with the Association of British Members of the Swiss Alpine Club (ABMSAC) to lease and manage the George Starkey Hut in Patterdale, in the Lake District. We held a consultation of the AC membership before taking this on, and there was strong support, so we're pleased to say that the hut is now available for members to use.
It's a fantastic new AC membership benefit, with its excellent location in the eastern Lake District by Ullswater, with easy access to the M6 from Penrith. There is direct walking accesss to some of the best winter climbing in England and great multi-pitch climbing and scrambling in the area. Rock climbing in Langdale and Borrowdale can be accessed in 45 minutes driving. It is also a great location for mountain-biking, fell-running, and canoeing on Ullswater Lake.
8 beds are reserved for members and guests of the AC and ABMSAC on a first-booked, first-in basis. Given the combined numbers in our clubs it is essential to confirm availability each time before travelling. Regular users can apply for their own key. The remaining 20 beds may be booked by our clubs, or by other clubs or groups, and the availability for club booking is shown on the online calendar. In addition to the members area, individual AC members can book half the hut (10 beds), if available, via the Group booking system. Of course weekends get booked up but weekdays are often available.
There is an online booking system where members can see what is available, when, and book places to secure them. If you have any questions or problems, please email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
Charges as of 1st October 2020:- Members pay £9.00 and guests £16.00 per night.
From April 2022, the club will be offering a 95% discount on bookings by club members (including up to two non-members per member booking) to encourage use of the hut. To find out how to take advantage of this discount, please log in to the website and select the 'GS Hut Discount' option from the 'Member Login' drop-down menu.
MEF Annual Lecture is a joint fundraising event for the Mount Everest Foundation.
The Pen y Gwryd Hotel: Tales from the Smoke Room is a new book celebrating the PyG.
