Ice climbing conditions set to inspire top international ice climbers
Scottish mountaineers and their international counterparts have been watching the build-up of snow in the mountains with anticipation.
We are saddened by the news that Julian Davey passed away after a short illness on Friday 14th February.
There will be a memorial service on the 28th of February at St. Kertigern’s Church in Caldbeck at 2:30 pm, followed by a gathering at the Parish Hall afterwards.
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A complicated winter!
A quick overlook of the recent weather:
Therefore, activities in the high mountain are not obvious during this holiday period.
The information the OHM has received indicates that the ski conditions remain “special”.
Concerning the pisted ski areas, the snow cover is still satisfactory and most of the pistes are open, weather permitting. Only certain areas at low altitude are suffering from insufficient snow.
In general, ski conditions are OK. Certain pistes, (particularly the steeper ones,) have hard snow with ice plates starting to show through during the day. Choose pistes in accordance with your ability and control your speed!
Conditions off piste are “variable,” drifted snow alternating with plates of hard, icy snow, (risk of breaking away in places.)
The langlauf tracks are suffering from a lack of snow and coldness in the valley floor. The best choice is at Argentière, though there are some pistes open at Chamonix and Vallorcine. More info on what is open at: https://www.chamonix.com/ouverture-des-pistes,129,fr.html
The avalanche transceiver practice area, (DVA park) at Savoy is closed since today, due to lack of snow.
The snow shoe tracks and the winter walking trails in the valley floor, ( Lac Vert loop, Bossons glacier, Cerro chalet, Cerfs loop, Tines loop) are all possible without snow shoes, Hiking is also possible, (with proper footwear, hiking poles and walking crampons,) near the Ayeres chalets, the Charousse alp and the Chapeau buvette.
Snow shoers need to go to Vallorcine (Granges loop) or at altitude using the lift system, (Prarion, Montenvers, Flégère/Index, Col de Balme and Aiguillette des Posettes from the top of the Vallorcine bubble lift.) With the recent weather, the snow is hard rather than powdery.
Concerning ski touring, the OHM has not received any info yet following the good weather this Wednesday. Last weekend all the classics in the Aiguilles Rouges (Pointe de Pormenaz, Crochue-Bérard, Pointe Alphonse Favre, Col des Dards, Col du Bélvèdère, Beugeant, Buet), in the Argentiere sector, (Col du Passon, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière) and in the other sectors nearby (Bel Oiseau, Val Montjoie) were done. Generally good conditions, (20-30cms of fresh snow on a hard base), though ski crampons and sharp edges are needed because of plates of hard, icy snow in places .
Hopefully, the conditions have not deteriorated too much since.
The Valley Blanche is being done. Good conditions high up, but “complicated” lower down due to the lack of snow.
Concerning the alpine ice gullies, there have been ascents on the Pointe Lachenal (Pellissier in good conditions), Cecchinel-Jager and Scotch on the Rock (no further info,) E face of the Tacul (Modica-Noury, Gabarrou-Albinoni), the Combe Maudite (Grassi-Comino), the Col des Grands Montets (Pépite) and the Col des Pélerins (Beyond Good Evil)...
Concerning the icefalls, it is still possible to climb on the true left bank of the Argentière glacier, (Deferlante sector, EMHM) and at Cogne (Lillaz, Patri, Acheronte, some more info here: https://www.iceclimbingcogne.com/ice-conditions/). It is finished for the Crèmerie, (unless there is another cold spell.)
A quick update between two periods of unsettled weather.
Following the large dump of wind affected snow at the beginning of the week, (between 40 and 80 cm depending on altitude, plus drifting), on Thursday night it rained night up to 2300m, with some snow falling above this.
From Thursday morning onwards, some off piste skiing was possible near to the lifts. By Friday, probably some ski tours being done. (There was a track towards the Col du Passon, no further information.)
The Valley Blanche was also done. The return route to Chamonix has much improved, (snow quality variable, some rocks between the ice cave and the exit from the glacier, and on the bends down from the Mottets buvette, one section of walking.)
The large drifts and the presence of weak layers on certain slopes means great care is needed in the choice of route. The forecast is for heavy rain above 2000m, starting on Saturday. This will moisten the snow cover.
There is very little recent information concerning the icefalls. Conditions have not changed much since the last update, (still climbing on the true left bank of the Argentière glacier, the Crèmerie, etc.).
Due to the fresh snow and the very short weather windows, there has been no activity in the high mountain.
Finally, the marked snowshoe trails are feasible, including those in the base of the valley.
There are few changes since the last update despite the fresh snow on Friday the 17th Jan.: 20/30cm at 2000m on a hard base – about 50 cm at 3500m
This snowfall however has been transformed, (scoured, some might say!) by a strong north/ north-easterly wind that has been blowing since Sunday, giving the high mountain a particularly cold feel. The slopes affected by this wind have become very demanding to ski (snowbanks, icy layers, hard coxcomb formations and sheets of wind-polished snow to contend with.)
Ski Touring has been taken up in earnest since Saturday with activity reported in all the classic sectors of the Mont Blanc range: Aiguilles Rouges (Belvédère - Dards - Beugeant - Encrenaz - Crochues-Bérard - Salenton - Buet) - Val Montjoie (Cicle - Chasseurs) – Loriaz. It is possible to set off ‘skis afoot’ from the Buet, from Couteray, from Plaine Joux, from Contamines, (the roman road is already icy in places,) from Trient. Ice axes and crampons are often proving to be useful.
There has also been plenty of activity above the Argentière Glacier, (glacier des Rognons - col du Passon - col du Tour Noir) and the Vallée Blanche (glacier du Mallet - col du Tacul – towards the Brêche Puiseux).
Vallée Blanche : The ridge and the ‘Z’ are now well equipped (roped). However, take care as the recent windy conditions have led to the formation of numerous weak snow-bridges, (there has been much falling in to crevasses recently!) Conditions are very variable between the start and end of the descent. It is possible to ski down to Chamonix, though there is a lot of exposed rock at the end of the glacier section.
On the ice-climbing side of things, conditions are little changed since the last update with plenty of parties enjoying routes on the true left bank of the Argentière Glacier (Ressac - Déferlante - mini Couloir - Home Wet Home - EMHM), and also some parties on the right bank (Grand Bleu - 8 Mont-Blanc).
High Mountain: our info is now dated to before the last snowfall. Lagarde Direct (14th Jan) bergschrund tricky- conditions are good on the whole – exit is mixed but ok. The way down by the Talèfre face will be loaded now (high avalanches risk). The Couloir Couturier: the bergschrund has collapsed, a tortuous way through the pile of lorry-sized blocks (10m) is possible to the right of the highest point (fragile). In the couloir one needs to meander across bands of ice. The Whymper Couloir is fairly dry, (two pitches on rock but keep in mind this info dates to before the recent snowfall)
The Cosmiques Ridge has been tracked, (approach possible on foot without rackets)
The North Face and the Couloir Gevasutti on the Tour Ronde have been done regularly.
People have turned back from the Ravanel/Frendo because of too much snow.
With the drop in the wind, the Aiguille des Pélerins - the Pointe Lachenal (Pellissier - MC Solar) – the E face of the Tacul (Modica Noury - Gabarrou Albinoni - Goulotte Lafaille) - Petit Capucin (Valéria) are being climbed. It is likely that the Combe Maudite and Requin sector are also in condition.
For the hikers: snowshoes are not needed until about 1500m. Below this altitude and on the paths in the valley floor, the snow is very hard, (good shoes, hiking poles and walking crampons recommended.)
We are saddened by news of the death of Yvonne Holland yesterday morning, 8th January.
The funeral will be held on the 30th January at 2:30pm, Stockport Crematorium. Mountain friends are welcome.
Firstly, Happy New Year from the team at Chamoniarde; wishing you many great outings in 2020.
The anticyclonic conditions have allowed for increased activity in the mountains after an Autumn and December of unstable weather.
For ski tourers: all the classic outings, (Val Monjoie, Pormenaz, Aiguilles Rouges, Loriaz/Bel Oiseau sectors/Col de la Forclaz,) are popular. The snow cover is good above 1500-1800m but can be sparse below this. The snow quality is very variable, often wind or sun affected but still mainly giving pleasurably skiing. It is possible to start skinning directly from Plaine Joux, Buet, Couteray and Trient. As a reminder, the Loriaz and Lognan huts are open for the season.
Ski touring is also possible on the glaciers: Glacier des Grands, Col du Passon (awkward to ski avalanche debris in the lower part), Col du Chardonnet, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière, Tour des Périades, Glacier del Toula etc. The Valley Blanche has black ice on the ridge, which is not yet equipped other than some belay stakes. The snow quality is variable, with a weak cover below the Salle à Manger and there are quite a lot of stones between the ice cave and the way up to Mottets. The descent to Chamonix "acceptable"
You are reminded that it is still early season and many crevasses are still open. Good skills at reading the terrain are essential.
The anticyclone which has brought agreeable temperatures to the high mountain has also helped with the formation of ice and led to a return of activity. In general, the conditions remain thin, so it is difficult to talk of “good conditions”. However, certain routes are being done frequently. Some examples: Couloir Lagarde direct, Couloir Couturier, Beyond Good Evil, Fil à Plomb, Mallory-Porter, Eugster Diagonal, Modica-Noury, Pellissier Gully, M6 Solar, Lafaille Gully and Valeria Gully. The routes behind the Requin and in the Combe Maudite look to be feasible. There is no information for the Chardonnet or the Pointe du Domino.
It is difficult for someone to be totally objective when reporting on conditions, especially as their technical abilities have such an effect. In addition, with social networking, it is not unusual to find conditions not as good as expected but with still a crowd at the start of the route!
Concerning ice climbing, the routes are coming into condition on the upper true right bank of the Argentiere, (Mur des Jumelles, Résurgence) and the left bank, (Déferlante...). Conditions are also improving at Cogne. Please note, as last year, climbing in a sector in Valnontey is forbidden due to bird nesting. The icefalls concerned are: Gusto di Scozia, Flash Estivo, Flash Estivo colonnata centrale, Fiumana di Money, Fallo di Plutone, Coupè di Money, Mistiria, Coupè Money variante, Cascata della pazienza, Cascata della rassegnazione, Meeting 2000, Sweet Valentina, Voglia di tenerezza....More information here: : https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/valnontey-cogne-ice-climbing-ban-to-protect-bearded-vulture.html ).
Snow shoes are not necessary for the marked trails below 1800 m (well tracked by many people), but good footwear and poles are.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 27/12/2019
The last update for 2019, for a weekend that promises to be sunny.
The storm last weekend brought with it a lot of snow at altitude, but also strong winds and with a warm period at the end. This resulted in wet snow below 2000m, (risk of snow slabs detaching from ground level.) The off piste ski conditions often unpleasant, (a crust above a deep layer of soft snow and inconsistent hard snow at altitude).
The spell of bad weather on Friday, (27th,) put down 30cms of snow at 2000m and around 10cms of damp snow at 1000m. Above 2000m the snow cover has been affected by the wind. Already on Friday there have been quite a few avalanches. (A thinnish layer of fresh snow sliding on an old, hard layer.)
Take care this weekend with the return of the sun and a rise in temperatures, (0ºC isotherm around 3000m on Saturday and Sunday.) There will be a lot of people about. USE ALL YOUR SENSES NOT JUST THOSE OF YOUR TRANSCEIVER!
The snow cover is very good for the time of year above 1500m but remains poor below 1400m.
Most of the ski area is now open. You can see exactly what lifts and pistes are open in real time at: http://www.skiplan.com/bulletin/bulletin.php?station=chamonix®ion=alpes&pays=france&lang=en
For ski tourers not wishing to use the lifts, one can start skinning e.g. at Bettey, Le Tour parking, Vallorcine, Bel Oiseau and Col de la Forclaz. To repeat, be careful with your route choice, given the potentially hazardous conditions due to the mixture of fresh snow, wind and rising temperatures.
There have been a lot of people asking about the Valley Blanche. It is still a bit too early and for the moment it is only suitable for very experienced ski mountaineers.
There is no information about the gullies and mixed climbs. It has been very windy. The OHM is looking forward to receiving your reports!
Concerning the valley ice climbs, there is not much about, which is to be expected given the temperatures. There is some ice at Cogne, otherwise patience is needed, (to avoid everybody on the same icefall!) Hopefully, conditions will improve in January.
The snow shoe tracks are open, (best above 1500m) : (https://www.ccpmb.fr/uploads/2019/12/TopoRaquettes_2019-20_light.pdf). The Company du Mont Blanc maintains some tracks at altitude, accessible by lift: (http://www.skiplan.com/bulletin/bulletin.php?station=chamonix®ion=alpes&pays=france&lang=en). These would give access to the superb views from the Prarion or Flegere this weekend.
Take care and a Happy New Year to everyone
Following a period of winter there was an Indian summer! The start of this year’s ski season has been very strange with big snowfalls interspersed with warm, foehn storms.
Last week was dominated by windy, foehn weather with temperatures well above the norm, (up to 15ºC in the valley and with the isotherm above 2000m, even at night.) For example, it was 6C° at Lognan at 8h00 this Friday morning.
Given this, you will understand that the snow cover has suffered. There is no snow left in the valley floor or up to 1400/1600m depending on the orientation. The ski conditions both on and off the piste are not the best. Hopefully, the forecast for precipitation this weekend will improve this situation in time for the Christmas holidays.
As far as ice climbing is concerned, patience is still needed!
Concerning the lifts, the Aiguille du Midi is now open since Thursday, (weather permitting). The Vallorcine and the Mer de Glace lifts open this weekend. However, the Brevent cablecar will remain closed until January. The "Col Cornu" piste is currently closed due to the threat of unstable snow.
Following recent headlines about the climbing and trekking industry in Nepal, the Alpine Club has issued this statement, written in collaboration with the BMC, the UIAA and the mountain guides body the IFMGA, highlighting some of the issues facing the Nepali government and how we might help in its efforts to drive out bad practice and secure the future of mountain tourism in Nepal. The proposals were approved at the UIAA General Assembly on Nov. 2, 2019.
Read more for full statement
For the Climbing Season 2020 Indian Mountaineering Foundation has decided to give 50% discounts on handling charges to encourage the Foreign Climbers to climb peaks in Indian Himalaya.
Details of the discounts on handling charges offered are found HERE
News has reached us of the death on 31st August of our member Claude Davies, who had been a member since 1985.
Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
Due to the Corona virus situation this expedition has been cancelled
25th July – 21st Aug 2020 (TBC)
Mountains cover 95% of the territory of Kyrgyzstan and 40% of those are above 3,000 meters high. Many regions remain unexplored and the country offers huge potential for exploratory mountaineering on peaks over 4000m at a reasonable cost. An ideal first major expedition for confident independent climbers with Alpine experience, this exploratory expedition will aim to make first ascents of several virgin 4000m peaks. The size of the expedition is not fixed but should not exceed 10 participants.
A brief update for the weekend.
After the foehn storm last weekend, the snow has returned with snow down to the valley floor. In the last 24h there has been between 80 to 90 cms of new snow at 2000m and 40 to 50 cms at the village of Le Tour. There was knee deep snow in places on the way up to Chalet du Chapeau in places yesterday.
The Grand Montets ski area will be partially open this weekend, (more info on the Mont Blanc Natural Resort website). The other ski lifts in the valley will remain closed. There is no further news as to whether the Montenvers railway will be running this weekend.
The Courmayeur ski area will be open this weekend, including the Mont Blanc Skyway. (N.B. the stairway down to the Toula glacier will be closed this year: more info ici).
Except for a few areas, (e.g the Balme sector with perhaps some walking in descent), the amount of snow below 1800m will probably not be enough for ski touring. Above this and depending on the sector, take care with rocks, crevasses on the glaciers and avalanche risk, (not yet graded but more info available ici).
For hikers, it is best to keep to the valley walks, (Petit Balcons, Buvette du Chapeau, Cabane du Cerro, Alpage de Charousse etc.) and have good footwear. The footpaths up to Montenvers remain closed.
Little has changed since the last, (05/11), report. To recap, there is enough snow to make things awkward for hikers but not enough for skiing.
After yesterday’s foehn, (warm, wet winds), the bad weather last night put down 5 to 10 cms of snow in the valley and about 20 cms at 2000m.
The amount of snow is not yet enough for even a partial opening of the ski areas this weekend, (16/17 Nov, e.g. Les Houches and Grands Montets.)
The Montenvers train is running every day, (the ice cave, with its cable car, is foreseen to open for the Christmas holidays). The Aiguille du Midi cable car is planned to open on the 14th December.
Ski touring: If you are not afraid to of a bit of ski carrying, there are possibilities above 1900m, (e.g. Balme area, Grands Montets/Argentière sector, Contamines).
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 21/11/2019
Little has changed since last week’s update apart from a partial opening of the Grands-Montets ski area this weekend, (more information ici).
The snow remains insufficient for off-piste skiing.
The open lifts will give ski tourers access to the top of the Grand Montets and so into the Argentière sector. However, the season is just starting and from the information received so far, the glaciers, (Rognon, Argentière) are very treacherous, (numerous crevasses and fragile snow bridges.)
For the moment, skinning up at the Balme /Tour sector is feasible, (could change given a forecast for foehn, warm winds). The descent below Charamillon is stony and involves walking.
The conditions for ski touring are more favourable in the Aosta valley.
There is little information concerning the mixed routes and “high mountain”. There is quite a lot of new snow but there is little cohesion and probably not much ice. It is unlikely there will be much activity this weekend, given the forecasted foehn weather.
There is no change in the conditions for hiking. It is recommended to stick to the valley trails, (below 1800m) and to be properly equipped, (good footwear, poles etc.) The Montenvers train remains open.
It is still too early in the season for ice climbing and snow shoeing.
As this brief report is being written, the first snowflakes are falling in Chamonix. Winter is on its way.
The succession of weather fronts has resulted in a gradual build-up of the snowpack, with 50cms at 2500m and 15cms at 2000m having been reported. There is snow cover down to 1500m. This depth will increase today and a further 15cm above 1500m is forecast for tonight, (Thursday.)
While waiting for the winter BERA reports to restart, think about consulting the Information Neige et Avalanche on the Météo France site.: http://www.meteofrance.com/previsions-meteo-montagne/bulletin-avalanches/mont-blanc/OPP03.
Though the weather has been bad for the alpinists, it is good news for the mountain conditions which are now improving after a particularly dry summer.
There is still not enough snow yet for skiing, except at ski resorts with glaciers above 3000m. (Les Diablerets, Verbier and Cervina will be partially open this weekend.)
Hiking is best restricted to the good paths below 1500m, (Petits Balcons, Floria and Chapeau cafes etc). However, experienced, well equipped hikers can enjoy the first winter snows; for example, the Chailloux chalets, the Loriaz chalets and Montenvers.
Concerning the lifts, the Aiguille du Midi, Planpraz and the Skyway (Courmayeur) are now closed until the start of the ski season. The Montenvers train is the only thing open, (the ice cave and lift is closed until 13th December.)
As this brief report is being written, the first snowflakes are falling in Chamonix. Winter is on its way.
The succession of weather fronts has resulted in a gradual build-up of the snowpack, with 50cms at 2500m and 15cms at 2000m having been reported. There is snow cover down to 1500m. This depth will increase today and a further 15cm above 1500m is forecast for tonight, (Thursday.)
While waiting for the winter BERA reports to restart, think about consulting the Information Neige et Avalanche on the Météo France site.: http://www.meteofrance.com/previsions-meteo-montagne/bulletin-avalanches/mont-blanc/OPP03.
Though the weather has been bad for the alpinists, it is good news for the mountain conditions which are now improving after a particularly dry summer.
There is still not enough snow yet for skiing, except at ski resorts with glaciers above 3000m. (Les Diablerets, Verbier and Cervina will be partially open this weekend.)
Hiking is best restricted to the good paths below 1500m, (Petits Balcons, Floria and Chapeau cafes etc). However, experienced, well equipped hikers can enjoy the first winter snows; for example, the Chailloux chalets, the Loriaz chalets and Montenvers.
Concerning the lifts, the Aiguille du Midi, Planpraz and the Skyway (Courmayeur) are now closed until the start of the ski season. The Montenvers train is the only thing open, (the ice cave and lift is closed until 13th December.)
KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL
Brewery Arts Centre Theatre
Sunday 17 November 2019 at 11:45 - 13:45
An evening of epic tales of mountain survival in Africa, Asia and South America with Oswald Oetz, Clive Rowland, Doug Scott CBE, Paul Braithwaite and Simon Yates
Thursday 21 November 2019 – Royal Geographical Society London
