In January 2021 we are planning a 12-day winter mountaineering trip to the High Atlas mountain range, Morocco.  The High Atlas rises to over 4000m with reliable winter mountaineering, ice climbing and winter hill walking easily accessible from two guarded huts. 

We will fly to Marrakech before transferring to the small town of Imlil. The following day we will walk into the CAF hut below Toubkal, where we will spend 7 nights. From here, we will have easy access to reliable ice climbing, alpine ridges and winter climbing of a similar character to Scottish winter climbing, though usually with sunshine! The area in the summer (and winter) is popular for trekkers wanting to walk up Toubkal, but beyond the trade routes you will find yourself in remote alpine wilderness.

12 day trip. 





Saturday 16th January

Fly to Marrakech - transfer to Imlil - overnight in hotel Dar Adrar.


Sunday 17th January


Day in Imlil (1500m) – acclimatisation (walk to summit of local peak) & buying supplies – overnight in hotel Dar Adrar.


Monday 18th January

Walk into CAF hut (3200m).– ice climbing at falls near hut in afternoon. 


Tuesday 19th January

Climbing 1


Wednesday 20th January

Climbing 2


Thursday 21th January

Climbing 3


Friday 22th January

Climbing 4


Saturday 23th  January

Climbing 5


Sunday 24st  January

Climbing 6


Monday 25nd  January

Climbing 7 - walk out late afternoon.

Overnight in hotel Dar Adrar.


Tuesday 26rd  January

Transfer to Marrakech - overnight in Hostel in Marrakech.


Wednesday 27th January

Fly to UK.


Nature of climbing.

Ice climbing. 

There is 1-3 pitch ice climbing close to the hut, 35 mins walk down the approach to the hut and higher on the surrounding mountains from WI2-WI4.

Winter/alpine mountaineering. 

The mountaineering has an Alpine/Scottish winter feel with névé filled gullies and mixed alpine ridges. The Cicerone guide by Wes Clarke is a good starting point and has climbs and routes up to AD+, but there is also a Spanish guidebook covering more technical routes in the area. There are lots of easier routes, including winter walking which takes in some of the 4000m peaks and opportunities for two-day routes with a winter bivvy as well, as more technical routes such as the SE ridge of Toubkal West (D-). 


This trip is open to all members.  Aspirants are encouraged to join the trip, but all attendees must be competent self-sufficient winter mountaineers due to the remote nature of the area which is not serviced by any rescue organisations.


Accommodation (half board), in-country travel and flights approximately £500-£600 per person.

For more information email Robbie Pineda at. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.