1. Spirit
The purpose of the Piolets d'Or awards is to raise awareness about the year's greatest ascents across the world. They aim to celebrate the taste for adventure, the bravery and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world's great mountain ranges.
We have been informed of the sad death on 9 July of Anne Sauvy (Wilkinson) who had been a member since 1975. In addition to being a very accomplished alpine ice climber, Anne is best known as a prize winning mountain author. Her books of short stories - Flammes des Pierres - The Game of Mountain and Chance - Darkness and the Azure - were translated into multiple languages and won many literary awards. Anne also wrote 'Mountain Rescue Chamonix Mont Blanc, a highly acclaimed account of the PGHM rescue service.
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The Alpine ClubCasts head across the Atlantic for an evening with the AAC. Graham Zimmerman, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson (guest of honour at the Alpine Club dinner in 2017) join us to talk about their brilliant first ascent of Link Sar (7,041m) in the Eastern Karakoram in Pakistan, one of the last great Himalayan problems.
Link Sar is situated in the Charakusa Valley and sits between the better known K6 and K7. After Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman’s first ascent of the North West Face of Link Sar West in 2015, a route they named 'Fever Pitch’, and an attempt by Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi on the North East face, the main peak was finally climbed by Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman, Chris Wright and Mark Richey in August 2019. Steve Swenson, for whom this was the third attempt at the summit, wrote on Instagram after his 2017 attempt: 'It's a complex and dangerous mountain, and we didn't reach the top. But we made a significant effort to find a safe route that avoids the objective hazards. We plan to return so we can finish what we started.' Join us on Tuesday to hear how they finally did just that.
As usual we will finish with a Q&A
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 02/07/20
An update for the end of the week.
The recent rainstorms deposited a small amount of snow above 3600m.
Tour Sector
The lift system here opens for the season this weekend. There are still snow patches on the traverse from the top of the Autannes chairlift, (Charamillon lake sector).
Generally good conditions : Aiguille du Tour (Table Ridge and normal route), Tête Blanche, (normal route, the bergshrund on the N face looks to be OK,) Aiguille du Chardonnet (Forbes Ridge, Migot Spur) are all popular. The Purtcheller S Ridge is also feasible.
Argentière Sector
The Plan Joran lift is open at the weekends. During the week, alpinists with a reservation at the Argentière hut can use the lift. (It should be possible from 3rd July to buy a ticket online at the CMB website (https://www.montblancnaturalresort.com/en /). However, it will not be possible descend with the lift. For more information contact the hut directly.
Glacier du Milieu, Jardin Ridge (early start!) - Charlet-Straton - Flèche Rousse are in good condition. It is probably over for the Y Couloir. For the N faces and notably the Couturier (the couloir looks to be in good condition,) the slow re-freezing at this time makes the approaches difficult, (soft snow on the glacier) and all the parties have turned back lately.
No problems for the rock routes!
Charpoua Sector
From this weekend the Montenvers train will run daily.
A party has done the Dru traverse. The glacier is chaotic but passable. Still some snow on the “ Z” passage and the upper part, (not a problem.)
It is over for the Y Couloir, the Cardinal and the Sans Nom (too hot).
The rock is snow free on the Evèque , (Contamine has been done) and on the Flammes de Pierre.
Talèfre Sector
No new information since the last update. It is possible that the snow routes will still be feasible if there is a good freeze.
The Moine ridge will certainly still have snow, giving mixed conditions.
The rock routes on the Moine should be feasible (normal route, S Ridge, Contamine).
Leschaux Sector
There is still a lot of snow on the balcon path, crampons very useful.
It is over for the SW gully of the Eboulement. The Périades may be possible given a good freeze, (glacier OK).
The rock routes above the hut , on the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses, (glacier approach OK,) are snow free .
Envers des Aiguilles Sector
The hut opened on the 30th June.
On the approach, care is needed on the moraines. There are still three snow patches on the traverse to the hut.
Not much activity other than a party on the Republique normal route and the Grépon-Mer de Glace face. The bergshrund is technical to cross, currently best on the right. Be aware there is some snow waiting to come down from the gully overhanging the shared part of the two routes. The latest information is that the Nantillons glacier is in reasonable condition. .
The rock routes on the Pointes des Nantillons are being done, (e.g. L'homme du Rio Grande).
Plan de l'Aiguille Sector
The Frendo Spur is being done regularly, (exit on the right). The Mallory looks to be dry in the lower part.
The routes are being climbed on the Peigne (Papillons Arete, Contamine Vaucher, SW ridge), the Pilier Rouge de Blaitière, the Lames Fontaines, NE ridge of the M (crampons not needed; the N face routes e,g. the Couzy, are likely to be wet after the storms). The approach to the slabs on the Peigne is exposed to a landslip zone. Crampons are useful for the traverse of the Petits Charmoz.
There is no recent information for the Cordier Pillar or the Charmoz-Grepon, (snow possible on the ledges,) which look to be feasible.
Aiguille du Midi Sector
There was rain, snow and hail at the hut the other night !
The Tacul was re-tracked, (fairly hard work,) on Thursday in good conditions. A party also left for the Trois Monts. The Mont Maudit is still ascended via a little gully on the left, (2 axes recommended) or at the exit to the Kuffner, (some bare ice on the slope to reach the ridge, the descent is not obvious from the summit to re-join the track towards the Col de la Brenva).
No recent news for the Midi-Plan. Snow mushrooms and cornices have turned back parties on the narrow section after the Rognon. .
No comments for the Cosmiques Ridge, Pointes Lachenal, Lolo ( Laurence ) traverses.
The Valley Blanche traverse is well tracked, (not too crevassed.) No track on the climb up from the Requin hut.
The S faces (Aiguille du Midi, Pointes Lachenal) and the Tacul satellites (Pyramide du Tacul, Pointe Adolphe Rey, Grand Capucin etc) are being climbed. On the other hand, it is still too early for the Gervasutti Pillar.
Helbronneur / Grandes Jorasses Sector
Parties are frequently seen on the Rochefort Arete , Dent du Géant (avoid descending too late in the day from the Salle à Manger), Marbrées and Aiguilles d'Entrèves traverses, N Face and Gervasutti couloir (Tour Ronde), Kuffner Ridge and Aiguilles du Diable traverse.
No information yet for the traverse of the Grandes Jorasses (snow/verglas above the Canzio?).
The normal route on the Grandes Jorasses was done last week. Still a lot of snow and the parties went to the right of the Rochers du Reposoir. Since then, the rocks may have dried.
Mont Blanc Italian (Monzino/ Gonella) Sector
The Aiguille Croux, Punta Innominata, and Innominata ridge are popular, (good freeze needed to go up to the Eccles).
The Peuterey integral and the Brouillard Ridge, (feasible by the Col Emile Rey with a good freeze,) have not been done yet.
Climbs on the Brouillard Red Pillars are being done.
The Voie du Pape (Italian normal route for the Mont Blanc) is being done if the freezing conditions allow, (snow on the Col des Aiguilles Grises). The window for the Tournette Spur is going to be very short, (the slope above the Quintino still has snow but not for long, after the Spur is mostly dry.)
Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay Sector
It rained up to the summit of the Dômes de Miage. Conditions are good for the traverse, ( the ridge is reasonably broad with no ice but crevasses are beginning to appear on the glacier.) No comments for the Aiguille de la Bérangère. Still plenty of snow on Mont Tondu, (snow sluffs below the Lanchettes).
Due to poor re-freezing there has been no recent activity on the Tré la Tête, Lée Blanche etc.
Arête Mettrier : This was done a few days ago in mixed conditions. The route taken was basically the Integral : the first part was very dry, the second part was on snow and the final ridge gave mixed climbing.
Tricot Ridge : the Brèche Chapelland has dried out terribly, (stonefall danger.)
For the Plan Glacier hut approach there are still some snow patches on the traverse from the Col de Tricot, (experienced hikers only). From Miage, there is hardly any snow left on the path but the footbridge at the level of the Ours moraine is not yet in place, (wet feet crossing the torrent!)
There is still plenty of snow on the way up to the Durier hut. Remember that the way up to this hut is an alpine route and not to be underestimated. An early start is needed to minimise stonefall risk.
The Aiguille de Bionnassay traverse is in good condition, (no ice).
Goûter/Grands Mulets Sector
The Mont Blanc normal route remains in good condition.
It is just about over for skiers. It is perhaps possible by N ridge of Dôme du Goûter, (which is almost completely with snow and the Jonction is still OK,) with a descent by the normal route
Most of the hiking trails are now free of snow, exceptions being the Cornu and Noir lakes, the Buet, Albert 1er hut from the Autannes chairlift and the Col de la Terrasse.
News has reached us of the death of our member Richard Brooke who was born in 1927, a member in 1950 and ACG in 1953 (Retired).
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Perfect Storm: First ascents on the forgotten side of Mont Blanc
Simon Richardson and Micha Rinn describe recent first ascents of the Diamond Ridge on the Grandes Jorasses and Perfect Storm on Mont Blanc.
The talk will start with renowned Italian climbing historian Luca Signorelli outlining significant historical events on the Italian side of the range, and finish with a Q&A.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 25/06/2020
The good weather this week has allowed for a lot of activity.
For the hikers in mid mountain, the conditions have slowly improved but there is still some snow, notably in Aiguilles Rouges.
The Chéserys lakes and Lac Blanc do not present a problem but the cols du Brévent, Cornu and Glière still have snow and the correct equipment is needed.
Likewise, for the Tour des Aiguilles Rouges, crampons could prove useful.
The Grand Balcon Nord traverse should be without problems despite two short snow patches where care is needed, especially with children..
On the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is still snow on the cols but a good track is being created. Good boots and poles are highly recommended. The footbridge crossing the Bionnassay torrent on the way up to the Col de Tricot is in place.
There is quite a lot of activity in the high mountain but the lack of night-time freezing is causing some problems for the snow routes. Even with early starts there is a risk of soft snow.
Albert 1er sector : With the hot weather the snow on the glaciers is very soft Be aware of the time of day!
Generally good conditions for the Forbes Arete and the Migot Spur.
The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are popular
Table Ridge was done a few days ago, the party keeping their crampons on throughout the route, the approach by the Table Gully is OK if frozen.
The approach to the hut by the moraine remains preferable until the snow patches disappear on the path from Charamillon/Col de Balme.
Argentière sector: No problems with the approach via the glacier. Rock climbing behind the hut OK. The Glacier du Milieu, Col du Tour Noir and Flèche Rousse Ridge have been done recently in good conditions. The Y Couloir and the Couturier OK if there is a good freeze. No new information for the N faces.
Mer de Glace/Leschaux sector: The Y couloir on the Verte was done 23/6; soft snow on the approach. The bergscrunds go in the middle. The ice steps have unconsolidated snow on the crux Exit by the left branch with ice in the middle. A party had problems on the Cardinal. No news concerning the Drus for the moment.
Couvercle Sector: The Whymper couloir is in condition if there is a good freeze. This morning, Thursday, several parties turned back due to stonefall though some continued. The normal routes on the Droites and Courtes, including the traverse, are tracked. The S ridge integral on the Moine was done, still snow on the W side and on the descent. The Moine ridge on the Verte looks to have a lot of snow. The traverse to the Leschaux hut is mainly dry but two snow patches make an ice axe and crampons advisable.
A party took advantage of a weather window to do the Linceul a few days ago. They bivvied on the summit and descended via the Boccalatte. The upper part of the Petites Jorasses still has snow. The Périades and Aiguille de l'Eboulement look feasible if the time of day is respected.
Torino sector: Quite a few parties have done the Kuffner ridge, the Brenva Spur and the Aiguilles du Diable recently. The Tour Ronde is OK (N Face and Gervasutti) except for the normal route. The Aiguilles d'Entrèves and Marbrées traverses are OK. The Dent du Géant and the Rochefort Ridge are also being done. The rock routes are rapidly coming into condition with the heat.
Cosmiques sector: Conditions for the normal route on the Tacul are very good. The Mont Maudit is technically more difficult, two axes needed. For the moment, the way up is by a little gully below the exit of the Kufner then traverse the entire slope to the Col du Mont Maudit.
The traverses of the Pointes Lachenal, Lolo (Laurence) and Cosmiques Ridges are in good condition. Likewise, for the gullies; Chéré, Contamines Negri, Grisolle, Mazeaud and the Allemands. Be aware of snow sluffs later in the day. The Midi-Plan is tracked, there and back until the Rognon. The S facing rocks are snow free.
Plan de l'Aiguille sector: Good conditions for the Frendo Spur (exit to the right), the Mallory-Porter and the Eugster diagonal if the time of day is respected.
Crampons and ice axe could prove useful for the approach to routes on the Chamonix Aiguilles. There have been parties on the Peigne but the Blaitière is not free of snow yet The Lames Fontaine, Petits Charmoz traverse and “M” look feasible.
Grands Mulets sector: The hut is closed but there seems to be plenty of activity towards the Mont Blanc, via the plateaux and the N ridge of the Dôme, no further information. Numerous snow sluffs have been observed.
Tête Rousse/Goûter sector: Generally good conditions for the normal route up Mont Blanc, though the ridge just before the Tournette rocks is very narrow. .
The N face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay was done a few days ago.
The Rognes path is officially closed, (council order.)
Durier sector: Still a lot of snow on the approach to the hut, take care if there is not a good freeze or later in the day.
Some parties have done the Aiguille de Tricot and the Bionnassay traverse.
The traverse from the Dômes de Miage is OK if there is a good freeze.
Conscrits sector: Generally good conditions in this sector. The footbridge on the summer path has been repaired and is in place.
Robert Blanc sector: Conditions are also good in this area.
The TMB variants from the Fours and Enclave cols still have a lot of snow Good equipment is necessary, including crampons if the temperatures drop.
Italian side: The Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises has been done recently though some parties have turned back due to lack of freezing. Parties have also turned back from the Tournette Spur
From the Monzino, the Pointe Innominata and the Innominata Ridge were done on 24/06. The rock routes on the Aiguille Croux, (Ottoz, Bertone-Zapelli, Cheney,) are popular; crampons and ice axe being useful for the approach. There was a party on the Gabarrou-Long, (Brouillard Red Pillars). No news for the moment about the Peuterey Ridge integral.
You will have worked out that the conditions are generally good but that the high temperatures have created complications for certain routes and approaches. Choosing the right route and respecting the time of day are the key factors for the moment. There is a risk of storms in the coming days.
The OHM is looking forward to receiving information about your outings,
The Rucksack Club and Alpine Club, two of Britain’s oldest mountaineering clubs, combine to take you up the classic six great north faces of the Alps, with accounts from 6 different members. As ticklists go this is short, sweet and an easy one to remember, but containing formidable and historic routes, it's not such an easy one to complete and has become the ticklist for the serious alpinist. It's the Matterhorn, Eiger, Grandes Jorasses; the Petit Dru, Cima Grande di Laveredo, and Piz Badile. Tonight in part 2, the Alpine Club hosts, as we visit the Petit Dru, Cima Grande di Laveredo, and Piz Badile, with speakers James Thacker, Dominic Oughton and Ian Bryant.
As usual, we will finish with a Q&A
Nick Simons, Nicholas Smith and Richard Ive
After the very popular Alpine ClubCast4, which looked at some of the classic alpine ridges, tonight three Alpine Club members talk about some of Switzerland's most compelling alpine rock routes.
Nick Simons takes us up the 400m shining slab of the Canton Vaud, the Miroir d'Argentine, and Nicholas Smith talks about two lesser known ridges close to Saas, the Cresta del Lago Maggiore and the Jegigrat. Finally, Richard Ive talks about one of the longest, hardest and finest ridge climbs in the whole of the Alps - the West Ridge of the Salbitschijen.
Aimed at whetting appetites for a future trip, the talks will be followed by a Q&A session.
Mountain Conditions 19/06/20
A quick update on snow conditions. There will be more information after this weekend’s feedback.
From Saturday, the weather is due to stabilise and from Sunday, should become warm and sunny.
This weekend the Leschaux, Charpoua, Argentière, Plan Glacier and Durier huts will open.
High mountain: some parties turned back before reaching the summits, (Chardonnet, Mt Blanc, Dômes de Miage...) There was a lot of deep snow making the routes a lot more tiring.
Albert 1er sector: Aiguille du Tour is well tracked and in good condition, some surface snow sluffs. There is a good 60cms on the Forbes Ridge, not tracked. The Migot has been skied. There is hardly any snow at the hut. The best approach is by the moraine as there are still exposed snow patches on the summer path coming from Charamillon.
Couvercle sector: There was a party on the normal route of the Droites but they turned back due to too much snow. The freezing conditions are not good but the Droites, Courtes and the Whymper look to be in condition. The rock routes are still too damp, (snow), including the S ridge of the Moine.
Aiguille du Midi and Torino sector: 40cm of very humid snow has fallen which is now crusty snow on the surface. The traverses of the Cosmiques Ridge, Laurence Ridge, (Lolo), Pointes Lachenal, and Marbrées are tracked. The Tour Ronde has been skied. The Tacul Triangle looks to be in condition, (plenty of snow).
Goûter sector: The normal route up Mont Blanc is tracked. There is a lot of snow between the Rognes and Tête Rousse and it is preferable to approach by the glacier. More than a metre of windblown snow has fallen at the Gouter hut. The cable at the Grand Couloir is in place, though some of it is still under the snow. Good crampon skills are needed for the descent from the Gouter. The glacier below the Tête Rousse is all on snow.
Conscrits sector: It is finished for skiing here. The footbridge on the summer path is still not in place, (damaged and not yet repaired) For the approach by the glacier it is best to keep to the true right bank without crossing the river, then following the cairns after the steep section, as marked by the hut warden. The snow routes appear to be in condition, (Aiguille de Tré la Tête and Blanche) but need time to stabilise. There is still a lot of snow on the Dômes de Miage.
At the Grand Paradiso, the routes from the Chabot are tracked and in good condition.
Mid mountain: There is still quite a lot of snow at the TMB cols and on the Tour des Aiguilles Rouges. Hopefully, this will disappear from the paths after a week of sunny weather.
The footbridges at Bionnassay and Armina (Italian Val Ferret) are in place. Some of the TMB variants are not in condition yet.
Snow is still causing some problems for rock climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges, crampons could be useful.
The Rucksack Club and Alpine Club, two of Britain’s oldest mountaineering clubs, combine to take you up the classic six great north faces of the Alps, with accounts from 6 different members. As ticklists go this is short, sweet and an easy one to remember, but containing formidable and historic routes, it's not such an easy one to complete and has become the ticklist for the serious alpinist. It's the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Eiger, the Petit Dru, Cima Grande di Laveredo, and Piz Badile. Tonight in part 1, we are hosted by the Rucksack Club to celebrate what has become known as "the trilogy": Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, and the Eiger, with speakers Andy Kirkpatrick, Martin Cooper, Nick Wallis, Bill Deakin and Cec Rhodes.
As usual, we will finish with a Q&A.
William Mitchell, John Colton, Ben Tibbetts
We are celebrating mountaineering artists past and present:
First, William Mitchell, an art dealer, climber, and writer, who has written the first book in English about Gabriel Loppé. As a prolific artist and mountaineer, Gabriel Loppé (1825-1913) was the first painter to have depicted what the French call ‘la haute montagne’.
We are joined by John Colton, who discovered the wild places of Yorkshire and a love of drawing from an early age. By the time he was twenty this had developed into serious mountaineering and painting combined. John has previously exhibited at the Alpine Club in 2013 and was described as the first exhibitor who actually draws whilst engaged on serious Alpine climbs. These include the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and the Innominata route on Monte Bianco.
Finally, we have Ben Tibbetts who last year published ‘Alpenglow’, the result of an obsessive project involving 10,000 hours of climbing, to reach all the highest summits of the Alps. It is a book full of meticulous historical research, inspiring photography, intricate and beautiful drawings, and writing that captures the essence of each route. We’re not clear yet about what Ben will show, but we can expect some of his drawings of the mountains and routes shown in Alpenglow, and the stories of the climbs that inspired them.
Followed by a Q&A
A reminder: 79 images from the AC Collection can be viewed here:
https://artuk.org/shop/featured-collections/the-alpine-club-collection.html
where you can order your own print, for which the Alpine Club receives payment
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 04/06/2020
First the good news. The by-law forbidding overnighting in the mountains was lifted on the 2nd June. The bad news is that the weather has changed for the worse, (though this should eventually improve conditions which were very dry for the beginning of June.)
The French huts will be allowed to open, with certain conditions, (reduction in capacity, bedding and pillows not supplied…) Please consult the dedicated website ( https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/refuges ) which will be updated regularly.
Until the huts open, the winter rooms remain accessible, though a bivouac, (individual tent,) is better adapted to the current health situation.
The Conscrits and Trè la Tête huts opened on 2nd June.
Here are the dates on which the following huts hope to open:
The Grands Mulets and Requin huts will not open this summer. It is not certain when the Couvercle hut will open, as work is foreseen there. The Chamoniarde site will keep you informed.
The situation in Switzerland and Italy appears to be similar with the progressive opening of the huts.
Concerning the high mountain conditions, the good weather these last weeks has allowed for a lot of activity. The snow routes are mostly in good condition. Aiguille du Tour; Chardonnet (Forbes Ridge + Migot Spur); Aiguille d'Argentière (Flèche Rousse, Y Couloir, Glacier du Milieu), Aiguille Verte (Couturier, Whymper), Midi-Plan Ridge, Cosmiques Ridge, Mont Blanc du Tacul (normal route, Contamine-Negri, Contamine-Grisolle), Kuffner Ridge, Mont Blanc normal route, Mettrier Ridge and Dômes de Miage traverse were done frequently.
On the other hand, the Trois Monts route is not in condition. A large serac bars the way on the N face of Mont Maudit and the seracs lower on the face are unstable.
Rock climbing conditions are good on the S faces but there remains some snow on faces not that exposed to the sun.
Some reports on recent outings can be found in the cahier de course.
These conditions will probably change with the unsettled weather period that has started.
For hikers : the Barberine path has re-opened. The 4x4 track up to the Mottets from Planards is closed until July 31, more info : https://www.chamoniarde.com/actualites/sentiers/fermeture-chemin-4-4-des-mottets
Given the bad weather, the other good news is that the climbing wall at Les Houches has re-opened.
We are saddened by the news that Mike Bullock passed away on Friday 24th April.
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Mountain Conditions 29 May 2020
The latest information before this three-day weekend.
It should be no surprise that it is still too early for the classic walks at altitude, such as the mountain lakes tour, the North Grand Balcon or the Jonction.
In the Cheserys/Lac Blanc area there is still plenty of snow and the lakes remain covered. The northern slopes and the high cols remain present problems as there is still snow on some paths. Care and correct equipment are needed.
The Aiguillettes des Posettes and des Houches, Tête de Balme, Alpages de Loriaz, Planpraz via Plan des Chablettes and the Jovet lakes at Contamines Montjoie offer excellent views without snow problems.
In general, the paths bellow 2000/2200m remain feasible, for example, le Chapeau, la Floria,and Bossons glacier, but check first that there is no maintenance work being done at: fermetures pour travaux..
Overnighting, either a bivouac and in a winter room, remains forbidden for the moment, (and certainly for this weekend). Only day trips are allowed. Hopefully, this will change soon.
Not much has change for the high mountain since the last report, other than ski conditions have deteriorated, the snow being icy below about 3500m.
At Argentière, it is still possible to put skis on at the level of Lognan and get in a few turns.
Albert 1iere sector: it is still best to approach by the moraine. Activity has been reported on the Aiguille du Tour and the Forbes Ridge. The Migot Spur looks feasible.
Last weekend the normal route on the Mont Blanc du Tacul, Contamine-Negri, Pointes Lachenal traverse, Cosmiques Arete, Cosmiques Spur, Aiguille du Midi S face, Frendo Spur and Mallory-Porter were climbed..
The normal route and the N ridge of the Dôme route (ice on the ridge, no information for the Jonction traverse), on Mont Blanc have been done.
The Talèfre sector can be accessed via the Egralets or by the “new” Charpoua/Couvercle approach.
For the Conscrits, the footbridge has been seriously damaged by rock fall; repair is foreseen for mid-June. In the meantime, access is by the Tré la Tête glacier.
For rock climbers: there has been a lot of activity on the valley crags and also on the Aig du Mid (S face) For the climbs near the Plan de l’Aiguille, crampons and ice axe are needed for some of the approaches. For example, the NNE ridge of the M has been done in good conditions, but crampons are highly recommended.
The lifts and huts will open one by one during June/July, depending on the precautionary measures taken for each.
For the lifts: consult the dates here.
For the huts, regular updates are available on the Chamoniarde site: Chamoniarde/huts site.
The Office de Haute Montagne is open to the public Monday to Saturday 9h to12h and 15h to 18h.
A mask is obligatory as is respecting the rules posted at the office. For the moment, it is best to ask for information by phone or email.
The Chamoniarde training courses for this summer are still under review. All relevant information will be posted soon on the Chamoniarde site and on social media.
The Chamoniarde team is looking forward to receiving information from your outings to feed into their bulletins.
A celebration of three mountaineers of the Golden Age, with a scientific slant. Nanna Kaalund, Roland Jackson and Rachel Hewitt talk about the achievements of three great Victorians.
Followed by a Q&A.
The 2020 Summer Meet was planned for July in La Bérarde, in the heart of the Écrins. This site has excellent climbing and many people have fond memories of climbing and walking there.
The ongoing Covid-19 pandemic has cast a shadow over this, and we have watched events unfold.
The decision on the meet has been delayed as we have watched events, but we are now 6 weeks before the meet. Although there is some relaxation in France (and the UK), travel is still restricted, with severe limitation on entry into France. There will be quarantine measures in place until at least the week before the meet.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 20/05/2020
Some information for the long bank holiday weekend.
The return of the good weather, together with the opening of the Aiguille du Midi lift and the Montenvers train, has allowed for a lot of activity in the high mountain. Take heed of the warm weather, conditions will have certainly changed since last weekend. We are between the ski and alpine seasons. Skis and snowshoes remain useful for moving about the mountain.
Tour Sector: The hut is accessible either on foot, (a snow patch to cross near the water outlet then dry until the junction with the other path below the hut), or on ski, (a part of the moraine still has snow, 1hr of carrying.) A lot of people were on the Table Couloir (mixed section low down, final ridge OK,) and the normal route on the Aiguille du Tour. Some parties have done the Migot Spur.
Argentière Sector: The skiing still starts at the rocky section of the Pierre à Ric. Last weekend the Couturier Couloir was in good condition, (still 30m of ice at the narrows.)
Talèfre Sector: No information other than to reach the hut, the central gully and the Pierre à Bérenger are dry. It is better to go by the Egralets ladders (free of snow but the equipment on the ledges may not be all there.)
Aiguille du Midi Sector: The lift will be open from Thursday 21st to Sunday 24th. The ridge is in good condition, (no ice,) and with some stakes in place
Skiing remains the main activity. Return trips from/to the Aiguille are popular. The upper part of the Valley Blanche is in good condition but this is not the case lower down, (crevasses at the Salle à Manger, sticky snow and the skiing ends at the junction with the Leschaux glacier, 1hr of walking to the Montenvers ladders.)
The Glacier Rond and the Cosmiques couloir have been done, no further information. It is recommended to return to the Plan de l'Aiguille, (one starts walking well above the old Glaciers station.) Be aware that conditions are changing rapidly.
Quite a few skiers have been going, there and back, to the Col des Marbrés and the Col d'Entrèves.
The Gervasutti couloir was popular (good conditions), as was the normal route on the Tour Ronde (no further information.)
The normal route on the Mont Blanc du Tacul was done in good conditions last Sunday. The bergschrunds are OK and one can keep the skis on throughout. There were some parties on the Chere couloir, (looks to be very dry,) on the Contamine-Grisolle (black ice showing through) and on the Contamine-Negri. The Gervasutti couloir has been skied, (conditions have probably changed since). As last year, the bergschrund for the Mont Maudit looks to be problematical .
The Cosmiques Arete has been done, (approach on foot tracked.) The west Pointe Lachenal was popular. The traverse has not been done but looks to be in condition.
Not many rock climbers about even if the south facing rocks look to be dry, (e.g. Aig du Midi S face, Cosmiques Spur, Pointes Lachenal.) There is still a bit of snow on the ledges.
Mont Blanc : No recent information concerning the Jonction. There looks to be ice on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter. Again, the descent via the Plateaux « looks » OK.
Dômes de Miage: The Mettrier ridge was OK but with a long carry. The Dômes traverse and descent by the Armancette is still feasible with skis, ( the walking starts above the lake) The Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back, is also OK via the Mauvais Pas. (The skiing starts at the glacier.)
Skiing is finished for this year at the mid altitudes, (Buet etc).
Hikers should not forget it is only the start of the season and there is still a lot of snowabout. Not everybody is aware that more than half of mountain accidents happen to hikers.
As well as the hikes indicated in last weekend’s bulletin, the following are now feasible: the Aiguillette des Posettes from Le Tour or the Col des Montets, the Signal Forbes from Montenvers, (N/B. the Grand Balcon North traverse still has too much exposed snow,) the Bellachat hut from Chamonix, the chalet des Pyramides, the chalets de Pormenaz from the Tête de la Fontaine, the chalets de Miage from Gruvaz.
Multi pitch routes are now permitted so it is possible to climb in the sun, for example at the Cheserys. The Evettes via feratta (La Flégère) is feasible but does involve a long walk from the valley.
Attention : The Barberine cliff is in Switzerland: the border police have done numerous controls and the fine is 100 CHF per person for someone crossing the closed border. This is also true for the Baberine canyon.
We will be marking the 65th anniversary of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga which, at 8586m, is the third highest mountain in the world.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is the first woman to climb all the 8000m peaks without the use of supplementary oxygen. She talks about her ascent of Kangchenjunga in 2006 via the South-West Ridge and is joined by Stevan Jackson, who led the second British ascent of the SW Face in 2000, 45 years after Joe Brown and George Band. Mick Conefrey also joins us to talk about his new book on the subject, ‘The Last Great Mountain’. Finally, Leo Dickinson will show some unseen footage of Joe Brown describing the final stages of the first ascent.
Followed by a Q&A.
CLICK HERE for details
