news blog

Report 26th August 2018

Autumnal weather for the last Sunday in August.  With the lower temperatures there was snow down to 2500m.   The Chamonix Aiguilles were plastered with snow but the Aiguilles Rouges escaped. The rocks, though initially humid, were quick to dry with the return of the sun.

Generally, the conditions for hikers are good but today, Sunday, there was a serious rockfall on the path between the Col des Montetts, (Nature Park Chalet) and the Lac Blanc.  This area is very unstable and is closed by order of the council  see here  .

The Chéserys Lakes and Lac Blanc remain accessible from Flégère, Argentière or the path from Trélechamp which passes by the Aiguillette d'Argentière, (ladders). 

The lifts

The Company du Mont Blanc has closed the top section of the Aiguille du Midi : more here  

Cosmiques 

With the top part of the Midi lift being closed, access to the Cosmiques hut is from the Pointe Helbronner, (Skyway) and traversing the Valley Blanche.  Care needed, with the dry conditions the way is awkward.

Cosmiques Ridge : after the large rockfalls in the middle of last week the route is no longer being done.

Mont-Blanc : The snow bridge over the “Maudit bergschrund” has collapsed.  A party left this morning, (Sunday) to see what is possible, waiting for more info.

Valley Blanche

Rochefort Ridge remains in condition.

Dent du Géant : OK but the approach to the Salle à Manger needs care. 

There are more and more open crevasses on the way up to the Col d’Entrèves.

Grand Capucin : some parties were stopped by the bergschrund. 

Satellites : none of the bergschrunds have been reported as uncrossable for the moment. 

Aiguilles du Diable traverse and the Kuffner Ridge : no news for several days, the approaches are dry and certainly pose a problem.

Couvercle

A few cms of snow this morning (Sunday) and cold.

No problems for climbing the Moine, (normal route and the S Ridge classic). The Moine Ridge on the Verte is still feasible, (the bergschrund goes on the true left bank).  The upper part has snow for the moment.

Envers des Aiguilles

The upper third are plastered with several cms of snow, in the process of drying out.

Leschaux

The rock routes near the hut are popular.

The rock routes on the Petites Jorasses are accessible but currently snow covered.

Grandes Jorasses : The Walker Spur was done at the beginning of last week but there is already  ice after the exit from the black slabs. The face was plastered this morning, (Sunday) and does not get much sun.  The normal descent route is becoming unpleasant, (crevasses, weak snow bridges, stonefall)

Albert 1^er

 The classics of the area, Tête Blanche – Petite Fourche – Aiguille du Tour remain popular by their normal routes. The Cols du Tour and Col Supérieur du Tour do not have much snow but are feasible, (be aware of stonefall, especially if other parties are about.)  The Table Ridge remains possible but the start is awkward.

Argentière

 Regular stonefall has been observed at the Grands Montets Col bergschrund, (access to the Rognon glacier.)  At the hut the main activity is on the nearby rock routes.

Conscrits

 1 cm of snow this morning (Sunday) and cold. Mont Tondu is still being done occasionally, (very dry conditions).

The glacier under the Col des Dômes is very crevassed, take care.

The Dômes de Miage traverse is no longer in condition but it is still possible to do the Central Dôme or the East Dôme, (there and back).  

The Aiguille de Bérangère is still being done (there and back).

Monzino

Eccles Approach is still OK by the glacier.

Some parties left for the Freney Pillar, awaiting news.

Aiguille Croux and Pointe Innominata are being done regularly.  

As a reminder : the Ratti Vitali is no longer accessible.

Aiguilles Rouges

For the route “Au bord du Gouffre” on the Cathédrale de la Glière large boulders, not normally there, have been reported in the gully, (stonefall ?)

The Chéserys Cliffs : A large block at the belay for the second pitch on “Aubade” is very loose.

Latest Information ( 27/08) :Chapelle de la Glière – south ridge : there is no longer a belay at the top of the Chapelle.  The last pitch is to be avoided.  

Report 16th August 2018

An update following the recent unsettled weather. The lower temperatures have resulted in better re-freezing and so reduced the risk of stonefall.  However, take care, the mountains remain dry and it is still warm during the day.   

Tour Sector

- Col du Midi des Grands is dry but still no bergschrund.

- Table Ridge (integral) OK but the approach is complicated, (crevasses)

- Normal route on the Aiguille du Tour: a good track, but more crevasses appearing and increasingly icy at Col Supérieur du Tour, bergschrund OK.

- Tête Blanche: normal route OK, NE ridge still feasible.  

- Petite Fourche:  a lot of ice at the summit slope but still feasible.

- S ridge of the Purtscheller : OK

Argentière Sector

- Petite Verte is still very dry, not for beginners.

- Care needed at the Col des Grands Montets bergschrund, (stonefall risk on the left-hand side, 25m vertical abseil on the right).

- Care needed with the crevasses on the Rognon glacier

Charpoua

Weak network reception at the hut, reserve by SMS on 06.31.17.74.03. The water supply has nearly dried out, (there is some bottled water.) Bring your own if possible.  The hut closes on the 31st August.

- The Drus traverse is being done regularly, in good condition, take a high line on the glacier and make a 50m abseil to reach the starting ledges, Glacier OK on the descent, (as for the approach to the Contamine on the Grand Dru)

- No remarks for the rock routes.

Couvercle 

- Normal route, S Ridge and E face rock routes on the Moine: snow approach and bergschrund OK.

- Nonne-Évêque traverse OK

- the Moine Ridge on the Aiguille Verte is still being done

- it is over this summer for the Droites normal route

- Normal route on the Courtes is feasible, though very dry, bergschrund OK. Still some snow in the upper part.  The traverse is possible but the descent from the Col des Cristaux is totally dry, (delicate).

Leschaux

- Petites Jorasses : Still snow on the approach glacier, best to take the true left side as there is a dodgy snow bridge on the (true) right.

- Aiguille de Leschaux and the other rock routes are OK.

- Today there were parties on the Walker, (Cassin route).

Envers des Aiguilles/ Requin

- no change with République bergschrund and the Nantillons glacier descent, (awkward but possible, though for how long?)

- Requin hut approach: follow the green and yellow marks on the moraine.

- rock routes on the Pierre à Alain and Dent du Requin in very good condition, (snow approach.) 

- Parties are still going up the Valley Blanche.  There are a lot of crevasses to circumvent.

Secteur Aiguille du Midi

3cms of snow fell at the Cosmiques hut on Monday/Tuesday, 30cms at Mont Maudit.

- Midi descent ridge is still in a reasonable state.  Take care with the bergschrund and crevasses.  

- Midi-Plan ridge is re-tracked but still very dry, for good mountaineers only, (e.g. those doing the complete Aiguilles traverse.)

- Valley Blanche traverse tortuous but nonetheless popular.  Care needed.

- Gervasutti Pillar bergschrund still passable. Frequent stonefall reported.

- Pointes Lachenal traverse is in dry condition, (risk of stone fall at the abseil and in the chimney.)

- Cosmiques Arete is popular every day.

- The way across the bergschrund for the Contamine on the S face of the Midi has collapsed.  Possible to approach from the start of the Rébuffat.

- Some parties on the Triangle, no further info. An early start is essential to minimize the stonefall risk.  

- Generally good conditions for the 3 Monts, still a bit of ice at the Col du Mont Maudit (2 axes recommended.) and on the traverse to Col de la Brenva (take the lower track, beneath the bergschrund.)

Grands Mulets

No longer a warden at the hut.) The Jonction goes both high up and low down.  Some fresh snow on the N Ridge of the Dôme du Goûter but the ice is not far away!

Mont Blanc by the Goûter

The conditions have returned to “normal”.  The bye law restricting access now remains in force until 17th September.  See here.

Dômes de Miage / Aiguille de Bionnassay

- More and more crevasses appearing on the Tré-la-Tête glacier, check soundness of the snow bridges.  

- Dômes de Miage traverse is no longer really feasible, (too dry.)

- There and back to the Central and East Dômes OK, passage of mixed between the col and the Central Dôme.  

- Aiguille de la Bérangère there and back : OK.  It is best to keep to the rock ridge on the left when descending. 

- Aiguille de Bionnassay traverse remains popular, ice on the summit slope and before the Piton des Italiens

Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises

The route is still in condition, good track on the glacier, (care needed as there are a lot of snow bridges to cross.)  The recent snow has improved (albeit temporarily) conditions for the ridge after the Col des Aiguilles Grises.

Monzino

- The glacier approach to the Eccles is still OK.

- Still some parties going for the Innominata ridge, even though it is very dry.  The end is near! 

Freney Pillar is still being done despite the very dry approach, (be aware of stonefall when descending from the Eccles col.)

- The traverse of the Freney glacier from the Col de l'Innominata is becoming more awkward but remains possible: The Ratti-Vitale (Aiguille Noire de Peuterey) and the Picco Gugliermina are no longer really feasible, (mainly because the return route is very complicated.)  The Aiguille Blanche by the Schneider ledges, finishing up Mont Blanc by Peuterey Ridge, remains feasible. 

- Parties on the Peuterey Intergral : no further info.   

Helbronner Sector

- Still some parties doing the Küffner even the approach is very difficult; the bergschrund is getting bigger and the wall above steeper.  The snow in the gully ends with 60m of broken, loose terrain below the ridge.  The ridge is generally dry, the traverse under the Androsace OK, the slope under the Maudit is on snow.   The descent direct to the Maudit col is OK.

- same as above for the Aiguilles du Diable traverse.  

- Approaches to the satellites generally OK but be aware of the crevasses.

- For the way up to the Salle à Manger, the glacier and bergschrund are OK. It is still possible to climb up the small gully, (but for how long?). It is better to descend by the rocks on the true right.  The rest is dry.

- Dent du Géant : OK but very crowded.

- Rochefort Arete: good track, ridge mostly on snow, though some ice beginning to appear.

- Jorasses traverse and descent by the normal route still OK, (some ice descending the Whymper and below the spur which comes down from the Walker.)

- Hirondelles ridge done on 11/08, no further info.

Aiguilles Rouges

- the Col de la Glière is free of snow but there is a snowfield to cross towards the Cornu col, perhaps hard in the morning.

- Crampons no longer needed to reach the rock routes, (Pouce included).

Report 8th August 2018

With the hot weather, the conditions in the mountains are rapidly evolving, especially for the snow and mixed routes.  Given the forecast  for afternoon storms over the next few days, mountaineering has become a morning activity!  

Tour Sector

Conditions OK on the glacier, (good track), some ice at the Col Supérieur du Tour but not a problem.  Normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche OK.

Argentière Sector

No major changes since the last report, the bergschrund at the Col des Grands Montets is still awkward, (see last report) but still good conditions for the Rognon glacier. 

Talèfre/Charpoua Sector

Conditions are slowly deteriorating, the bergshrunds are getting wider but generally the approaches to the rock routes are still OK.

- Drus traverse remains feasible, cross the glacier high up.

- Normal routes on the Droites and Courtes are  too dry, no longer practical.

- Moine, Nonne, Évêque : OK

Envers des Aiguilles

- As you can imagine, the bergschrund for the République/Grépon Mer de Glace (better to start by the République “bananière”) and the Nantillons glacier descent, (ice, a crevasse to abseil, stonefall) are not getting any better!

- No special problems for the (numerous) granite rock climbs.  

Valley Blanche/Aiguille du Midi Sector

- Still possible to ascend the Valley Blanche, (some crevasses to avoid).

- Parties on the Renaudie (Aiguille du Requin)

- 3 Monts route re-tracked on 07/08, fresh snow down to 3900m.

Aiguilles de Chamonix

- Keep low on the approach the normal routes on the “M” and Petits Charmoz, to avoid stone fall from Nantillons glacier.

- No problems for the classics in the area, e.g. on the Pilier Rouge de Blaitière and Aiguilles du Peigne/Pélerins.

Grands Mulets

- the hut closes next week.

- conditions are becoming awkward, difficult to find the best route through the Jonction, (the way now goes lower down, as shown on the IGN map), rock hard snow on the on the N Ridge of the Dôme du Goûter, (2 technical axes needed.)  This sector is now for expert mountaineers, who like solitude!

Mont Blanc by the Goûter

Conditions have seriously deteriorated in the Grand couloir and on the way up to the Gouter hut.  The route is no longer recommended. More info more here.

Dômes de Miage/ Bionassay / Aiguilles Grises Sector

- Traverse of the Domes is in difficult condition, (ice in places, sections of the ridge airy and necessary to keep to the rocks on the ridge down to Bérangère).  For competent parties only.

- There and back to the E Dôme (take care on the glacier) and to the Aiguille de la Bérangère are still in condition.

- Bionnassay traverse is technical but OK, (E ridge airy, ice at the Piton des Italiens). However, given the conditions on the Gouter route, one needs to be fit enough either to continue up to the summit of Mont Blanc and to descend by the 3 Monts route, or descend by the Aiguilles Grises (Gonella).

Monzino

- A lot of stone fall around the Eccles, parties leaving for the Innominata or the Freney Pillar returned to the hut. 

- Brouillard Ridge integral is feasible, (rock quality poor in places,) the Col Emile Rey is not.

-approach to the Noire de Peuterey (Ratti Vitali) and the Blanche de Peuterey (Schneider ledges) by the Col de l'Innominata and the Freney glacier OK.  However, one needs to finish by the Mont Blanc summit because returning by the Eccles is no longer feasible.  Some parties on the Peuterey integral, no further info.

Helbronner Sector

- the Kuffner and Aiguilles du Diable are still being done (becoming more and more dry.)

- the bergschrunds for the satellite rock climbs are still OK except for the Pyramide du Tacul, which becoming increasingly awkward.

- Dent du Géant and Rochefort Arete in good condition, given early start: sleep at the Torino hut.  The climb up to the Salle à Manger is dry but OK if the right line is taken.  Given its popularity, care is needed with stone fall, often from other parties going the wrong way

- Grandes Jorasses traverse is in condition, descent by the normal route still OK.

Do not hesitate to consult and contribute to the online Route book

Report 2nd August 2018

An update just before the weekend. As you will have noticed it has been very hot during the day recently and freezing levels have been variable.  The conditions on the snow/mixed routes and glacier approaches have changed rapidly.  Also, there is a risk of afternoon/evening storms for the longer routes. The best option is to stick to the beautiful Chamonix granite!

Tour Sector

- the Aiguille du Chardonnet is no longer in condition, lots of ice on the descent route.

- glacier approaches OK, e.g. for the Table ridge integral, normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fouche.

- rock routes like the Dorées traverse and Purtscheller S ridge are OK.

Argentière Sector

- Petite Verte : A lot of ice, not for beginners

- the bergschrund for the Col des Grands Montets can still be crossed on the left but is very exposed to stone fall.  A rope sling is in place on the true right bank (less exposed) to make a 15m abseil.

- The Aiguille d'Argentière is no longer in condition (Flèche Rousse, Glacier du Milieu). There has been a lot of stonefall on the N faces making the routes here dangerous.

- only the rock climbs or the Rabouin ridge are to be recommended

Talèfre / Charpoua Sector

- Drus Traverse: it takes time to find the right route for the glacier.

- Pointe Isabella (bergschund and crevasses are opening up beneath the seracs but no ice on the ridge), Courtes traverse (some snow on the ascent, ridge and descent dry), and the Droites “true” normal route (the traverse under the Droites col very dry) remain feasible.

- no comment for the Moine, Nonne, Évêque

- Aiguille Verte: Moine ridge, (bergschrund goes on the far left, 30m abseil), and Grand Montets ridge (the gullies between the Pointes are very dry) are in condition.

Envers des Aiguilles

The bergschrund for the République and Grépon/Mer de Glace is awkward but still passable, check it the night before and have 2 technical axes.  The Nantillons glacier descent is also complicated (e.g.25m abseil from a flake on the true left bank at a crevasse) but OK for experienced parties.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

- The Frendo is very dry and no longer in condition.

- Midi Plan: conditions have deterioated, (lots of ice and poor quality, sandy rock.

- Vallée Blanche traverse: The crevasses are opening up, the route through changes every day.

- Gervasutti Pillar: the bergschund is still passable, (left), but stonefall has been reported.

- Mont-Blanc by the 3 Monts : popular (there and back), several ice sections e.g. at the Col du Mont Maudit, (2 axes recommended).  

Mont Blanc by the Gôuter

The access restrictions to the Goûter hut have been extended.

A rockfall has destroyed the cable across the Grand Couloir, so is not protectable.

Dômes de Miage / Aiguille de Bionnassay

The ridge is popular. It is very sharp, (need to progress on one side or the other.  There is ice at the Piton des Italiens. No problems for the glacier approach to the hut.  Lancherons ridge is completely snow free.

Mont Blanc via Aiguilles Grises

Still in condition. There is a new phone number for the hut +39 0165 885 101.  (N.B the “0” is necessary in Italy).

Monzino

- Glacier approach to the Eccles still OK.  

- the bergschrund for the Red Pillars no longer passable.

- Innominata Ridge: very dry, stonefall reported.

Torino Hut Sector

- Kuffner : very dry, being done every day, stonefall reported.

- Parties still doing the Diable ridge: the bergschrund remains passable (on the right), approach gully dry, (stonefall especially from other parties), rock snow free.

- No problems reported for the bergschrunds on the Satelitte rock routes, (if you have information, please use the Chamoniarde online route book).
Apparently,there are fixed ropes at the bergscrunds for the Voie des Suisses (Grand Capucin) and Lifting du Roi, ( Roi de Siam).

- Dent du Géant : the approach to the Salle à Manger is dry, afternoon stone fall reported, otherwise good conditions for the Rochefort arete.  

- Jorasses traverse is been done regularly in generally good conditions Conditions on the glacier decent are deteriorating.  

Grandes Jorasses

- Walker Spur still in good condition, the Red Chimneys gradually drying.

- Jorasses traverse still in good condition, some ice near the Point Walker

- descent by the normal route OK despite limited re-freezing.  

Miscellaneous Info : 

There is a new Via Ferrata at the St Gervais Thermal Park.  It is not suitable for beginners, 1st part AD+, 2^nd part TD/TD+. 

A bolt is missing onthe first pitch Piano Forte (Tour des Crochues) with serious consequences in case of a fall.