Richard Sykes

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Tuesday, 21 September 2021 17:06

We are saddened to learn of the death on 17 September of Richard Sykes, who had been a member for 50 years.

Everest Exhibition to be Broadcast Live

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Parent Category: News

Created: Monday, 20 September 2021 13:47

On the 27 September at 16:00 UK time, the Alpine Club will broadcast a livestream of our latest exhibition: ‘Everest: by Those Who Were There’ via our Facebook page.

The exhibition marks the centenary of the very first Everest expedition in 1921 and uses the words and possessions of expedition members from 1921, 1922 and 1924 to tell the story of the first attempts to climb the world’s highest mountain – from the search for its exact location in 1921, to the fateful summit attempt of George Mallory and Sandy Irvine in 1924.

The livestream will be presented by Alpine Club librarian Beth Hodgett (@AlpineLibrarian) and will provide viewers with both an overview of the 1920s expeditions and the opportunity to see many of the artefacts on display, including the watercolour paintings of Howard Somervell, a piece of the mountain itself and Sandy Irvine’s ice axe.

The exhibition’s curator and Honorary Librarian of the Alpine Club, Barbara Grigor-Taylor said: “During the past 18 months it has been especially hard, and at times impossible, for everyone who might wish to attend the exhibition to make their way to see it in person. That’s why we’re so excited to be able to offer this opportunity for as many people as possible to receive a tour of the exhibition online.”

The broadcast is expected to run from 16:00 to 16:30 and will be available to view after the fact via the Alpine Club’s Facebook page. You can sign up for a reminder of the event here.

‘Everest: by Those Who Were There’ will complete its London run on the 20th of October, with visitors welcome to the Alpine Club’s premises at 55 Charlotte Road, London on Tuesdays and Wednesdays between the hours of 12:00 and 17:00 until then. (Please contact This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to book a visit).

A commemorative exhibition catalogue, detailing the three 1920s expeditions and reproducing the full exhibition collection is also available for purchase but we are down to the final few copies.

Everest 1975 | Alpine Journal Extract

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Parent Category: News

Created: Wednesday, 15 September 2021 11:39

^{The upper part of Everest SW face.}

Each day exact checks on what food and equipment were in each camp had to be matched against the number of Sherpas available for carrying and what was required for upward progress and maintenance of present positions with safety margins. Radio messages, regarded somewhat ambivalently at first, were prolonged when the chain became extended and front progress almost too fast, especially when oxygen and an alarming number of faulty regulators had to be juggled into the calculations. This operation depended of course on our Sherpas, whose particularly high morale and enthusiasm were key factors in the whole expedition; the unprecedented quantities, so quickly built up at Camp 5, were an indicator of the support coming right through from Base Camp and the organisational efforts of Chris Bonington, Mike Cheney, Adrian Gordon, Dave Clarke and our Sirdars Pertemba and Ang Phu.

Yet, in the midst of the apparently inexorable machine-like activity, the mountain was large enough for one to realise that it would not require much to reverse the tide of circumstances carrying us forward so well. A few days out in front could emphasise the contrasts. Early morning outside Camp 5, the eye would be greeted by a glow suffusing across the horizon, Cho Oyu tipped with rosy orange, Pumori, now a pimple, emerging out of the dark stillness below and the fringe of Gosainthan and its Tibetan neighbours in the distance. Conscious of fiddling with freezing crampons and oxygen apparatus in the half-light and then, cocooned in a semi-somnolent shell, the rhythmical shuffle, pull, plod and gasp up the ropes to the previous day's high point. Fix a few more rope lengths until no more was left and then easily slide down in the bright light to excavate a snow platform and erect the next box, so more rope instead of box platforms could come up from Camp 2.

By the time we reached the Rock Band on 19 September, progress was well in advance of that on previous attempts and even the most optimistic computer estimate on Chris's multicoloured graphs. From below and from air photos it was not possible to see whether the left-hand gully provided a route through the Rock Band, as it was so deep and well concealed. The break­through came on 20 September when Tut Braithwaite and Nick Estcourt cramponed into the bowels of the Rock Band. They encountered some difficult mixed pitches whilst entering and climbing up the gully, including an ice-clad chockstone that succumbed to a few pitons for aid. In the curling mists of the afternoon it had the haunting atmosphere of a Scottish gully with dark looming walls soaring upwards from a narrow snow bed. Then Nick and Tut dumped their empty oxygen cylinders and climbed across a remarkable ramp, loose and difficult, that led out from the gully rightwards to the top of the Band.

^{Braithwaite climbing the ramp to the top of the Rock Band}

Down in Camp 2 awaiting developments, an anxious call came from Camp 1 that it was collapsing; Hamish strode off to a Canute-like investigation. A bunting-like bird hopped about outside the mess tent whilst those within disposed of roast yak with relish. When Tut and Nick eventually arrived back off the Face, the crowded superbox felt like the Padarn Lake Hotel as they talked and gesticulated about their high-altitude acrobatics. Temporary feelings of anti-climax at lack of news and non-involvement with action above soon dissolved into euphoria. In only one day, the crux of the route and stumbling block of 5 earlier expeditions had at last been climbed and success seemed near.

On one long relentless day Mike Thompson, Mick Burke, Chris Bonington, Ang Phurba and Pertemba carrying vital ropes, fuel and oxygen, supported Doug Scott and Dougal Haston in establishing Camp 6 on a slim crest on the snow-slope above the Rock Band. At last it was possible to look across that much dreamed-about great traverse, and up the gully to the S Summit of Everest. Above, the wind was blowing ice particles off the summit ridge, shimmering in the sunlight. The support team took a long look from their 8320 m eyrie and then, with supreme altruism, turned back down to Camp 5 as the sun declined behind towering anvil clouds over Nepal. Doug and Dougal were left excavating a perch for their tiny green box. After spending a day fixing 400 m of rope that wavered around spurs and over steep rock steps, they were back again and were poised for their final attempt, the Alpine commitment of leaving the end of the safety line and forging for the summit. And at the back of their minds, they were aware of the other teams moving up the face below them, snapping at their heels, eager for their chance.

The next morning the BBC cameraman Ian Stewart, plodded dedicatedly up the W Cwm. He pointed his telephoto lens at two figures 1800 m above him moving steadily across the top of the Rock Band. Occasionally a dead man on one of their waists flashed a sense of immediacy down into the Cwm.

^{Haston on the traverse above the Rock Band}

Back in the boxes on the face everyone was relying for information as to their progress on radio reports from down in the Cwm. At Camp 5, Mick Burke, Martin Boysen and Pete Boardman and Pertemba were listening in every half-hour to progress reports. Mick peered out of the box doorway and up at the dark looming Rock Band 'Well, if they don't make it, they should have their first bounce around here'. Meanwhile, 600 m lower down Dave Clarke and Ronnie Richards crouched over their radio in the main street of Camp 4.

During the traverse, the watchers saw a large powder snow avalanche sweep down from the summit - it plummeted past the two figures now just visible to the naked eye from Camp 2. Then Doug and Dougal disappeared into the S Summit Gully. Hours later, at 3pm they reappeared briefly on the S Summit, only to move from view over the ridge into China. Occasionally a puff of snow appeared in the wind over the summit ridge. Soon the surmise was made by the watchers at Camp 2, Doug and Dougal were going for the summit. In the late afternoon light, 2 figures could just be seen moving, amazingly, unbelievably, up along the ridge. The light was failing and Chris crackled through the radio to the next summit bid team to prepare for a rescue and to load up with pain killers for potential frost-bite. How would Doug and Dougal survive a bivouac at 8,750m?

Next morning the second team found them inside the box at Camp 6, their minds still numb and speech slurred after a night without sleep and without much oxygen. But their imaginations were full of a lifetime sight - sunset from the summit - the interminable brown and silver rivers of Tibet, and a myriad of sunsets, sun shifting behind the plumed storm clouds of Nepal. They told of their near failure when at the foot of the gully Dougal's mask had frozen solid, blocking his oxygen supply and for an hour they had struggled to repair it. They told of the deep time-consuming powder snow in the gully, of the wind slab and the cornices, and of the Chinese maypole on the summit. They told of hallucinations in the snow-hole, of Doug holding a conversation with his feet, and of Dougal's conviction that Dave Clarke was with them, but without his usual issue of warm, life preserving down! However, unlike Doug, Dougal was wearing a down suit. In the heat of the afternoon Doug and Dougal were back at Camp 2, after 1,800m of sliding down the face on the ropes, involving a disciplined concentration on the ritual of clipping and unclipping their friction brakes with sensitive rewarmed fingers. Soon they were in the tender care of Dr Charles Clarke who, clad in a suit of red silk, swept around them with a bowl of warm water. In one bold and daring push Doug and Dougal had maintained the upward momentum of the whole expedition by reaching the summit within 33 days of Base Camp being established.

Despite the jubilation and the sense of personal success he must have felt at having co-ordinated and planned the ascent of the route, Chris now felt an added responsibility for the expedition. He intended to recognise the personal ambitions of the other team members and planned for 3 subsequent summit bids. And he was worried about Mick, who by mid afternoon still had not arrived at Camp 6 to join Martin, Pete and Pertemba.

But when Mick arrived at 4pm many fears were allayed. He was his usual chirpy self. He had been carrying extra camera equipment, had been readjusting the fixed line, had been helping Lakpa Dorje Sherpa whose oxygen apparatus had failed and his own oxygen had run out when he was 60 m below the Camp. He could see the hardworn line of Doug and Dougal's steps stretching beckoningly upwards. With the summit of the highest mountain on earth so accessible, what mountaineer would deny himself at least a try?

By dawn the following morning a chain of circumstances had been set in motion. Pete and Pertemba had reached the end of the fixed ropes and were convinced that oxygen difficulties had forced Martin and Mick to retreat. There was no-one in sight. They kicked away the spindrift from the tracks and moved unroped away from the end of the fixed ropes across the 300m traverse to the S Summit Gully. There they jumared gratefully up a fixed line hanging over a rock step in the gully. Looking down they could see a solitary sitting figure far back across the traverse and presumed it was Martin watching their progress before he turned back disappointedly to Camp 6. Meanwhile for those back at Camp 2 the view lacked the sunlit immediacy of 2 days before. The weather was changing and the cloud level was down to 8,200m.

At 10am Pete and Pertemba were standing on the S Summit but Pertemba's wayward oxygen set was re-enacting Dougal's ice block and it was 1 ½ hours and several cold fingers later before they began, roped now, to move along the summit ridge. They were not to be greeted on the summit by the shifting light patterns of a great panorama. Instead, visibility was down to 50 m and the sun was shining through the clouds above them. Pertemba attached a Nepalese flag to the maypole.

^{Haston on the Hillary step}

On their descent they were amazed to see Mick through the mist. He was sitting on the snow only a few hundred metres down an easy angled snow­slope from the summit. He seemed cheerful, congratulated them and asked them to go back to the summit with him so he could do some filming. They declined thinking that since they were moving roped and he was so near the summit, that he would soon catch them up again as they pitched the descent. He asked them to wait for him by the big rock of the S Summit. Pete said 'See you soon' and they moved back down the ridge to the S Summit. Shortly after they had left him, the weather began to deteriorate. The sky and cornices and whirling snow merged together, visibility was reduced to 3 metres and all tracks were obliterated.

They waited nearly 1 ½ hours before deciding to go down. They very nearly did not get back. They had difficulty in finding the top of the gully, found the top of the fixed rope over the rock step in the dark and were covered by 2 powder snow avalanches whilst moving blindly down and across the traverse. It was dark when they found the end of the fixed ropes. Moving across the fixed rope, Pertemba lost a crampon and Pete fell down a rock step to be held on the rope. One of the sections of fixed rope had been swept away. Martin was waiting for them at Camp 6. He had turned back when his oxygen equipment had failed and his crampon had fallen off. Pete and Pertemba arrived back at 7:30 at night and the 3 of them were pinned down at the camp for a whole day and 2 nights whilst the storm continued unabated. Pertemba was snow-blind and Pete could not feel his feet. Martin suffered frost-bite in his fingers whilst clearing the snow that was burying the boxes as avalanches poured past and over the edge of the Rock Band.

When the storm finally cleared on the morning of 28 September there was no chance of Mick having survived. Camp 4 had been evacuated and half the tents at Camp 2 had been destroyed by the blast from an avalanche from Nuptse. Bonington ordered the mountain to be cleared. The climbers remaining on the Face began painfully to descend. Within 2 days the entire ex­pedition was back at Base Camp.

What had happened to Mick? Perhaps the cornices on the Tibetan side of the ridge or the fragile one-foot wind slab on the Nepal side had collapsed, the fixed line over the Hillary Step had failed, or perhaps Mick, wearing glasses, blinded by the spindrift, had lost his way on the summit dome. He had taken a decision which any of the climbers on the expedition would have made, to try for the summit alone. To us, the question was - was the climb worth Mick's death? But back home, in the mountaineering press, other debates continue. Did Everest, its success, adventure and tragedy, transcend the ethical debates? Was a big, costly logistical pyramid of men and supplies justified in 1975 when so much was achieved elsewhere in the Himalaya that year by bold lightweight expeditions on Gasherbrum 1 and Dunagiri? Do the sherpas and their country suffer from the impact of involvement with such an onslaught of capitalist commercial risk-takers? Was it more than a 'vertically integrated crowd control?'

^{The summit ridge with the S summit and Lhotse}

The expedition owed much of its success to good weather high up (that only broke just when the expedition was at its most extended). It owed its success to Chris's leadership, to Bob Stoodley and Ronnie Richards getting the gear out, to Dave Clarke organising the equipment, to Mike Thompson organising the food, to Tut and Nick climbing the Rock Band, to the cool panache of Doug and Dougal's summit push, to hundreds of helpers and well-wishers in Britain and Nepal, and to Barclays Bank. It owed its success to climbers working together and trusting each other as friends. And it owed its success to the Sherpas whose involvement with the expedition and its success was total and euphoric - no Sherpas had been killed on the mountain, a Sherpa had reached the summit, they had been paid well and given fine equipment, the climb was over early and there was still good money to be made in the trekking season. The effect on us of their inherent happiness and reliability was more powerful than the impact of any of our misguided Western values on them. The Sherpas had been treated as equals and mutual respect and co-operation resulted. Their success was our success and ours was theirs.

And the mountain? The great drifting snows of winter soon erase the marks of man's ant-like scratchings. Everest's beauty leaves a picturehouse of memories that last a lifetime. Yet, Everest is a big mountain and the SW Face in 1975 required heavyweight tactics. Access to its secrets is only achieved after a 600 m ice-fall and a 2-mile walk up the W Cwm at 6,400m. And high on its slopes there is only a narrow boundary between a controlled and an uncontrolled situation that can be crossed irreversibly within minutes. Beyond the fixed ropes there is total Alpine commitment.

And the publicity? No climbing of Everest can ever be a private affair. Everest, the myth, with its magic and history fills the corners of the minds of many people - as the sunset from the summit filled the minds of Doug and Dougal and as at the end of the expedition, the experience of Everest was a mixture of awe, relief, happiness and sadness for the long lines of climbers who toiled back across the freshly fallen snow, back down the W Cwm. Occasionally stopping and glancing back.

The full report can be read via the Digital Alpine Journal.

 

  

Revised Library Opening Hours

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Parent Category: News

Created: Monday, 13 September 2021 12:11

From September 2021 the Library will open Tuesday to Thursday 10:00 - 17:00.

Bookings are no longer required for members wanting to browse the open shelves, though if you have a particular research project that requires access to the Club archives, please do contact us in advance so that we can prepare for your visit.

We kindly request that visitors to the library continue to follow Covid-19 precautions including sanitizing hands before entering the library.

We look forward to seeing you soon.

Report: 8th September 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 10 September 2021 15:32

Some brief summary information.

In general terms conditions in the high mountains haven’t changed much recently. Mixed routes are gradually becoming less snowy. Rock routes are generally staying in condition but it’s better to be in the sun because it’s becoming cold in the shade.

Take care with thunderstorms or showers at this time of year as new snowfall often doesn’t melt depending on the altitude and aspect. Rock routes can become much more difficult with snow or verglas.

Huts are gradually closing. Staying open at the moment are: Albert 1er; Envers des Aiguilles, Cosmiques, Torino, Nid d'Aigle, Tête Rousse, Goûter, Durier, Conscrits and Monzino.

You can find provisional dates of hut closure here.

Ditto for the lifts with the closure of Planpraz/Brévent this weekend and Flégère the weekend of the 19th.

The Forbes arête is only for the most experienced: the start and the descent are very technical.

According to the latest news the Charpoua glacier is still passable. On the other hand there may be snow/verglas on the Dru traverse.

The Nantillons glacier has taken quite a hit. The rimaye du Rognon is open but you can go down into it to get onto the rock. The rimaye at the start of the Cordier pillar has been crossed but there is no further information. The Charmoz rimaye is complicated but an S shaped snow bridge (first to the left and then to the right) allows you to cross. A route on the right bank lets you avoid the upper part of the glacier (steep and icy).

Otherwise take the abseils from the C.P terrace (named after Charlet and Payot who marked their initials here).

Stone fall in the afternoon from the left bank of the glacier can reach the track under the rognon.

Midi-Plan: things are deteriorating here as well especially just after the Col du Plan (alternating patches of ice and rubble). The traverse after the Rognon du Plan abseil is exposed.

The Cosmiques arête is very dry (little snow).

Mont Blanc via the Trois Monts: still very technical especially at the Tacul rimaye and at the col du Mont Maudit (vertical 4m step at the rimaye, then an exposed horizontal traverse for 100 m). It is also icy towards the Rochers Rouges.

The Rochefort arête, the Dent du Géant, the Kuffner arête and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse are still busy but becoming more and more snow free. Beware of snow and verglas on the Jorasses traverse (especially with the forecast weather). The descent by the voie normale is still OK.

Generally good conditions on the S side of Mont Blanc (Innominata, Pillar Rouge du Brouillard) but crowded in the Eccles bivouac hut.

Dômes de Miage: glacier and ridge in good general condition. A bit of ice on the way up to the Eastern summit (point 3,673m). It’s also beginning to be icy on the descent to the Col de la Bérangère.

With the gradual closure of huts, information is becoming more scarce.

Report: 30th August 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Wednesday, 01 September 2021 20:44

Cooler mornings, shorter days, summer is coming to an end and autumn is coming!

At altitude, a predominantly north / northeast / northwest wind has persisted for several days which has made things feel very cold.

The mountains continue to steadily dry out but there are few noticeable changes from our previous update.

Tour basin

The classics (normal routes Aiguille du Tour - Tete Blanche - Petite Fourche - Arête de la Table) remain popular and doable. The Forbes arête on the Chardonnet: the descent is very technical and exposed (black ice).

Argentière Basin

The refuge closes on September 5th. The season finishes with rock routes and possibly the Col du Tour Noir.

Charpoua sector

The gardienne has finished her season and the refuge is now operating in winter mode.

The Charpoua glacier is still in OK condition for the end of August in both ascent and descent.

The Drus traverse (a route not to be underestimated) is still in good condition.

Couvercle Sector

Moine ridge on the Verte: The rimaye is still OK. Be conscious of the time of day because there is still a lot of snow and a little ice (crampons essential).

Leschaux sector

The climbing routes above the refuge are snow free. You can still climb on the Petits Jorasses. The belays on the voie Anouk have been refurbished.

The balcony path is still being used.

Access to the Talèfre glacier from the Couvercle has been re-equipped (addition of a rope and steps)

Requin Sector

The refuge closes on September 4th. Rock climbing is the focus at the moment. Access to the Dent du Requin is in good nick.

Helbronner Sector

Little change. Conditions are still good on the Marbrées traverse and the Aiguille d'Entrèves.

The Petit Flambeau is snow free.

Generally good conditions on the Jorasses traverse (the ridge is OK- well marked descent) but few teams due to the wind.

Arêtes de Rochefort: Getting up to the salle a manger is snow free. Pretty good conditions on the traverse despite a bit of ice and some rather thin bits.

Kuffner arête: The direct start is gradually becoming snow free (ice and mixed sections). The rimaye is crossable on the right hand side. The Androsace snow arete is very lean.

Traverse of the Aiguilles du Diable: The access couloir is becoming snow free: be careful if there are several teams in the couloir.

Crossing the Vallée Blanche: The glacier is opening up: beware of dangerous snow bridges on the main track on the Helbronner side

Aiguille du Midi sector

Mont-Blanc traverse: This route is becoming very technical. The rimaye on the Tacul is becoming more complicated. The rimaye at the top is still crossable but on a bridge above a big hole: a snow anchor (“corps mort”/dead man) is in place above (do not hesitate to use it). 2 technical ice axes are recommended for the section over the Maudit (bullet hard snow).

Triangle du Tacul: You can still think about the Contamine Grisolle. The Chéré couloir looks a bit sad.

Traverse of the Lachenal: There are frequent serac falls - you must keep well to the right on the descent and not dawdle (or even don't go).

Monzino sector

Inominata and Brouillard arêtes are being climbed.

Peuterey ridge: Busy.

Eccles couloir: Still snow.

Ratti Vitali, Red pillar, Freney pillar: Some snow on the ledges.

Lady Ann Chorley

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Monday, 23 August 2021 08:25

We are saddened to learn of the death on 19 August of Lady Ann Chorley. She had become a member of the Ladies’ Alpine Club in 1966.

Report: 20th August 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 20 August 2021 16:14

A few pointers on this sunny weekend!

In general, the weather (sun, lack of wind, good re-freezing, isotherm not too high) and the conditions (glaciers and rimayes still relatively well filled in, faces / couloirs in reasonable condition) are finally favourable to (long) mixed routes. Despite everything, the mountains have dried well (the last precipitation was 10 days ago). But after all, it is the end of August!

Nothing to report as far as rock routes go!

Tour basin

Good conditions on the classics (normal route Aiguille du Tour - tête Blanche - Petite Fourche, arête de la Table).
Lots of traffic (especially at the start of the week) on the Forbes arête which is now more technical (ice on the Bosse and above the col on the descent: 2 axes needed).
The Migot spur is finished.

Argentière Basin

It's over for the Milieu glacier (ice + rockfall) except for very experienced parties who will want to descend down the arête du Jardin. This also means the end of the game for the Flèche Rousse.

Charpoua

The refuge will close on the 29th August.

It's still ok for the traverse of the Drus (but we say it every year, it's a long and technical route, be careful that you have both the ability and good experience in route finding otherwise you will take a long time).

Leschaux

Everything is dry except the Grandes Jorasses.

Envers des Aiguilles

The rimaye of the République / Grépon - Mer de Glace is still passable by the slab on the left bank (IV, blue pole in place). To join the start of the route there is a well marked traverse and an overhanging (but not wide) roture (gap between the snow and the rock).

However, the other route equipped by JS Knoertzer and Co to reach the new Tour Rouge hut is not recommended for everyone. It's steep, you have to know how to go up on fixed ropes (jumar recommended), check the condition of the equipment (ropes, knots) and there is some difficult climbing.

Helbronner sector

Always a lot of people on the classics. In these conditions, a 50 m rope (abseils of 25 m max) is enough for traversing the Marbrées and the Aiguille d'Entrêves.

Many teams on the Dent du Géant, fewer on the Rochefort arête (some icy sections are starting to appear).

Several teams on the Jorasses traverse. The rock section above the Canzio (Point Young) is dry. On the other hand, there is still a lot of snow further on which makes the route a little more difficult technically. Descent by the normal route OK. The Boccalate refuge is closed but the winter room (12 places, mattresses and blankets but no gas) remains accessible.

Conditions are still fine on the Kuffner (Frontier) ridge.

Traverse of the Aiguilles Diable: rimaye ok, the traverse to reach the couloir is on gravel but it's OK. The couloir itself is also getting dry (a few rocky bits, 2 axes are needed depending on your skill level).

All the Pointes are dry, you put crampons back on for the final mixed bit.

Aiguille du Midi sector

It's over for the Frendo for now (dry exit: ice and rockfall).

Conditions are still fine on the Midi-Plan even if here too, some bits have dried up (gravel / sand).

Cosmiques ridge:nothing to report except that we must not forget that despite its proximity and a certain degree of “banalisation”, this is a technical route and not easy. Normally it’s quite short (a half day), but several teams have been benighted ... Carefully question your grade and your mountaineering experience before doing it.

Traverse of the Pointes Lachenal: the descent from the last Pointe is exposed to the serac of the NE face of Tacul. You must keep well right. There is a bit of ice on the first Pointe (access to the traverse and the descent for the rock routes on the S face).

Mont Blanc via the Trois Monts: Tacul ok, do not follow a trail that goes to the left (going uphill) marked by a red flag which was left during a rescue in bad weather and which finishes up against a serac. There is some ice below the col du Mont Maudit (2 axes useful).

Pillar Gervasutti (from the PGHM): they have been pulling off more and more teams over the years. Conditions are getting looser and looser at the top. The terrain has changed a lot and even some local guides (who have done the route before) do not recognize it and some have had to seek help. Route therefore not recommended.

Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

A bit of activity lately even with the refuge closed. Access is easier from the gite à Balmat even if you have to find your way around by making a curve to the right before returning to the refuge. Those who came up by the Gare des Glaciers took almost 4 hours to cross the Jonction.

Mont Blanc via the Goûter

Normal conditions for the time of year. The climb up to the Goûter is dry and you have to be there at the right time.

Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay sector

Still generally good conditions on the traverse of the Dômes. The NE ridge of the Bionnassay is narrow (but no ice) but you need to be good on your feet.

Gonella sector

No more water at the refuge which is closing its doors today. The winter room (12 places, mattresses and blankets but no gas) remains accessible.

The route to reach the Piton des Italiens is still in good condition (even if the glacier is "scary" when it is not frozen).

Monzino sector

Several teams on the Innominata, the snow has transformed well.

After a number of rescues last weekend (wind, a lot of snow), there is a track on the Brouillard ridge.

Blanche de Peuterey by the Schneider ledges OK. The col Eccles is still fine.

Peuterey arête is in good snow conditions. Some teams also on the Integral. Borelli open with mattress and blankets.

You can also climb the Red pillar which is gradually drying. No news from the Freney.

Still no one at Ratti-Vitale (Aiguille Noire de Peuterey) even if the Freney glacier is OK and the route is dry (visually). Lots of people on the S ridge (crampons not needed). The descent by the E ridge has been re-marked (yellow dots) and the belays refurbished.

Thanksgiving for Rick Allen

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Created: Friday, 20 August 2021 15:59

Those with memories or photographs of Rick that they would like to share are encouraged to do so using the details provided with the invitation below.

  

Report: 12th August 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 13 August 2021 08:45

The return (or arrival!) of summer.

After the snowfalls of the last few weeks (or months), the mountains need to dry up, settle down, and stabilise. The wind does not help the process, nor the sometimes random refreezing (and the risk of thunderstorms).

With a good freeze, conditions on the classic snow / mixed routes are generally good for mid-August. With the return of temperatures worthy of an August in the 21st century, we must now accept a night in a hut (few routes are accessible off the first lift).

The rock remains a safe bet!

To sum up, if there is a good freeze, good weather, and it’s the right grade for you, all should go well!

Le Tour

The classics (arête de la table, aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche) of the sector are still OK.

There were teams today on the Forbes arete which should be in good condition with a good freeze (there was too much snow at the start of the week, one party was "scared off"). No news from the Migot spur (a team scheduled this morning branched off on the Forbes arete without further information).

The rock is dry (except the passage on the N side to bypass the Aiguilles Penchées) on the Aiguilles Dorées traverse.

Argentière sector

A small ice pitch on the upper slope of the Milieu Glacier: this route is now reserved for seasoned climbers.

Arête du Jardin, arête de Flèche Rousse, arête Charlet Straton, col du Tour Noir OK.

The rock routes are dry (Versant Satanique re-equipped by M. Piola).

Charpoua sector

Some ropes have done the Drus traverse and the Contamine on the south face.

The American direct has been done but it’s starting to be late in the season.

Rock: all dry.

Talèfre basin

No recent information but conditions probably similar to other sectors: classic snow routes possible with a good freeze, rock routes OK.

Leschaux sector

Walking is possible (balcons of the Mer de Glace) and rock climbing (west face of the Petites Jorasses, Eperon des Cristalliers; maybe still a little too much snow for the Aiguille de Leschaux). A party retreated at the end of the third pitch of "Boule à facette" (Aiguille de Leschaux) following a rockfall.

No one on the Periades side which remains possible (visually) with a good freeze.

Envers des Aiguilles

We have climbing! The rimaye of the République/Grepon Mer de Glace is still passable (on the right; step over the gap to gain a foothold on the slab).

Helbronneur sector

A lot of people on the classics (Rochefort arete, Dent du Géant, Marbrées, Entrêves, SE ridge Tour Ronde).

Kuffner arete (lots of trail breaking yesterday) and the traverse of the Aiguilles du Diable (snow, more technical than usual) also tracked.

A few parties on the traverse of the Jorasses which is however very snowy and therefore technically much harder.

There is climbing on the Tacul satellites.

Aiguille du Midi sector

Here too, the classics of the sector are popular (Pointes Lachenal, Cosmiques arete).

The Midi-Plan is in excellent condition for the season (if there is a freeze). One (or more) parties are engaged on the crossing of the Chamonix Aiguilles without further information for the moment (ok visually).

Triangle du Tacul: good general conditions. Teams on the Chéré couloir and the Contamine-Mazeaud.

The Trois Monts route was retracked yesterday.

Nothing to report as far as rock climbing goes.

Plan de l'Aiguille

Frendo not tracked. Should be OK with a good freeze (but difficult to know in advance about the freeze!!!).

Parties on the Peigne-Pélerins- Deux Aigles traverse, that should be OK.

Charmoz-Grepon: nicely dry except for the Z-crack which is still a bit wet. A bit of snow in the Charmoz_Grepon couloir.

The Nantillons glacier is in good condition.

Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

The snow is gradually melting in the section between Tête Rousse and the Goûter. Good conditions above.

It is our turn to insist on the fact that this is a mountaineering route, to be considered only with the appropriate skills, good weather, and not alone.

Conscrits Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay

Access to the Conscrits refuge via the glacier is now not recommended.

Excellent conditions on the crossing of the Dômes de Miage (the glacier is beginning to open up a bit, the slope above the Col de la Bérangère is still snow, there is snow down to within 100 m of the refuge on the descent of the Bérangère).

Good conditions also for the traverse of the aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête apart from the descent from the Col des Glaciers (you would need to continue on the Lanchettes arete).

Mont Tondu is still ok (the ledges on the lower part are not very pleasant: gravel).

Access to the Durier refuge still ok via Plan Glacier or from the Dômes de Miage.

Several parties today on the Bionnassay traverse.

Monzino Sector

Lots of wind and snow!

Those who tried the Peuterey integral turned around at the Noire. The Aiguille Blanche via the Schneider ledges will be possible once the mountain has finished "settling".

Complicated conditions on the pilier Rouge du Brouillard (snow on the ledges, ice in the cracks). Ditto on the Freney pillar which is in "winter" conditions. To be continued.

One party on the Innominata. One party on the Brouillard arete but rescued at the col Emile Rey on Tuesday 10th (wind, too much snow?).

Report: 4th August 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Thursday, 05 August 2021 11:21

A brief overview of the situation and conditions in the mountains at the beginning of August (even if it feels more like November ...!). As our Italian cousins say, "non puo piovere per sempre (it can't rain forever)"!

The Chamonix Aiguilles were well plastered with snow from 3,300m when I woke up this morning. The last few days have been rather cool and the weather windows very short. This weather is good for the high mountains and for the classic snow and mixed routes which are "just like 30 years ago": fairly good conditions when the freeze is good. Generally speaking, conditions have changed little.

Report 1 August 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Monday, 02 August 2021 19:30

1st of August ….  already  autumn ??

15-20 cm of new snow at the  Cosmiques hut (3600m)  with the snow/rain limit around 3000m. There is probably  a lot more snow higher up. Those breaking trail risk having to plough through deep snow.  

Care needed on certain routes such as the Trois Monts, (and, therefore, the descent from the Kuffner and  Aiguilles du Diable).

The rocks are either snow plastered or wet.  They should start drying out with the return of the sun on Tuesday.

On Wednesday there will be a more detailed  bulletin.  Until then, Chamoniarde is looking  forward to receiving  information of your experiences.  

(Translator’s note: after six years of providing English  translations of the mountain condition, a life change means this is my last one.  So it is goodbye from me and thank you for all the fish.)

Rick Allen

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Monday, 26 July 2021 08:34

^{Rick climbing on Nanga Parbat. Photo: Sandy Allan}

The Club has been deeply saddened to learn of the death of long-standing member Rick Allen. Reports currently indicate that Rick died in an avalanche while attempting a new route on K2 with Jordi Tosas and Stephan Keck. Tosas and Keck survived the avalanche and have been safely returned to basecamp by a rescue operation. 

Report 23rd July 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 24 July 2021 06:34

 MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 23/07/2021

A quick update following a week of good weather.

A thank you to all those who sent in their reports to the OHM.  It is much appreciated and do not hesitate  to continue sending them either directly by telephone, (the same number as that used for asking for info, 04 50 53 22 08 ), by email or directly in to the route book.

It has taken some time for all the snow that fell the previous week to settle and stabilise. The freezing has not always been ideal but better these last few days, (need wait and see what happens over the next days.) 

These conditions have generally allowed for numerous mixed routes to be done, which is not bad for the second half of July !   Also the rock routes are being climbed, (the bergschrunds are holding up well)  and even some major routes (Grand Courses), though for some others it is still too early, (or too late!)

Tour Sector

Some snow remains below the hut but not a problem for hikers.

There is a  good track for the Aiguille du Tour (via the Col du Tour or Col Supérieur du Tour),  the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche. The Table Ridge continues to be popular.  

The Forbes Ridge and the Migot Spur were tracked at the start of the week, after the snow settled.  The descent is OK.

Argentière Sector

There have been a lot of parties on the Aiguille d'Argentière  either by the Glacier du Milieu (starting to soften in the narrows, belays with slings possible,) the  Flèche Rousse ridge or the Jardin ridge.

Also, a lot of rock climbing in this sector.

It is over, (never really started,) for Tournier Spur on the Droites and probably for the Charlet-Straton.

A party (courageous, given the approach without the cable car) did the Grands Montets Ridge in good conditions, despite the recent snow, (it took more than 1h to get around the Pointe Ségogne). They bivvied before the snow dome and descended by the Moine ridge, (lots of snow.)

Charpoua Sector

A lot of activity on the Drus: the N face (Pierre-Alain), the W face (American Direct), the S face (Bastien - Contamine, still wet) and on the traverse (approach and descent low down on the glacier, which is in perfect condition.  Crampons used on the triangular snowfield and on the traverse between the Petit and Grand Dru, some ice.)

Feels like "canyoning" on the abseil descent, “dry treated” ropes recommended.

Rock climbing on the Flammes de Pierre, (count on two days after the rain for it to be dry and on the other side, (Evêque – Moine buttresses etc).

Couvercle Sector

The Moine is popular (normal route - S ridge- Contamine).

It is over for the Whymper. There is still a lot of snow on the Moine ridge but remains feasible for good alpinists.  The Jardin ridge is  just OK but probably not for long. 

The normal routes on the Droites and Courtes are OK, if there is a good freeze.  

Leschaux Sector

The Mer de Glace balcon paths are OK.

The rock climbs behind the hut are in condition.  The W face of the Petites Jorasses and the Aiguille de Leschaux are dry.  It is still too early for the Walker Spur, (snow).

The Périades Glacier is OK, if there is a good freeze.  Need to be good at reading the terrain.

Envers des Aiguilles Sector

The Tour Rouge bivouac hut is in place, (info click here).  A new way to reach it, (and other routes) has been equipped (see photo).

The Grepon-Mer de Glace and the République normal route are being climbed.  The snow bridge at the bergschrund is holding up but awkward if there is not a freeze

There has been nobody recently on the Ryan.

Otherwise, nothing special to report; the bergschrunds and crevasses are not causing problems for access to the rock routes.

Requin Sector

The lower part of the ladders has been re-equipped.  There is still a lot of snow on the glaciers.

As was already talked about last year, it is now possible to reach the Envers hut from the Requin high up, by going past the Pierre-Alain (snow band) then up the Envers de Blaitère glacier before descending to the Envers hut. Only for alpinists.

The way up the Valley Blanche is tracked. The descent from the Aiguille du Plan is by the  Envers du Plan glacier.

Rock climbing on the  Dent du Requin (Chapeau à Corne ridge, Renaudie, Paraudie) and on the Pierre Alain (Congo Star).

Helbronner Sector

The Rochefort Ridge and the Dent du Géant are in good condition. There is a good track in the approach gully and the spur is dry to reach the Salle à Manger.

A few days ago, a party traversed the Jorasses  but it is better to wait a bit.  The rocks on the Pointe Young above the Canzio bivouac are still verglaced. (Yesterday another party escaped by abseilling towards the Planpincieux glacier.)  Also, there is still a lot of snow on the rest of the ridge (Pointe Walker etc). The descent by the normal route is OK.  

It is OK for the SE ridge of the Tour Ronde, the traverses of Marbrées and Aiguille d'Entrèves (take care, the last part on the E side is unstable).

Quite a few parties on the Kuffner and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse with good conditions, if it freezes.  The Brenva Spur looks to be OK but not tracked.

The bergschrunds for the satellites are not causing problems.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

Midi -Plan ridge is OK, given a good freeze.   The Col du Plan  bergschrund is opening up. Even starting from the first lift, parties have turned back at the Rognon du Plan (the slopes on the Valley Blanche side heat up quickly.)  

Traverse of the Valley Blanche, Pointe Lachenal and Cosmiques ridge are popular.  

Good conditions,  (if frozen,) for the Triangle du Tacul (notably the Chéré and Contamine-Grisolle).  The bergschrunds are appearing but not yet a problem, the descent from the end of the routes to the normal route of the Tacul is OK, (no ice.)

The Trois Monts is in good conditions overall. The track goes very close to the serac on the lower part of the N face of Mont Maudit, though not exceptional, have made several parties nervous.  There are a few metres of ice below the Col du Mont Maudit.

There are no problems to report for the rock climbs, the bergschrunds remain OK.  There have been several rescues, (technically too difficult or losing the way) over recent years from the upper part of the Gervasutti Pillar, (which has changed a lot recently).  Heve a good reserve in technical ability and timing. 

Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

The Frendo is OK if it freezes but maybe not for long, as the upper part is deteriorating.

Rock climbing on the Peigne : Papillons Ridge, Minettes Spur, Normal route, SW ridge and the Lepiney crack, (crampons not necessary, ice axe for confidence on the lower snowfield), on the Gendarme Rouge (crampons or ice axe useful for the snow field,) and the Peigne slabs (crampons or ice axe useful).

Grutter Ridge and the Peigne-Pélerins-Deux Aigles traverse with return by the Midi-Plan or the Envers du Plan glacier are popular. Note, there has been a landslip in the area near the abseil to reach the amphitheatre of the Deux Aigles. It is necessary to descend from higher up the ridge: 2 abseils (10+25m) and 25m of down climbing. 

Rock climbing also at the Blaitière (Pillar Rouge, NW ridge), the Aiguille de l'M (normal route, NE ridge, Couzy,  Ménégaux) and the Petits Charmoz (traverse, crampons needed).

The Charmoz-Grépon is in good condition, (no info for the Cordier Pillar).  The Nantillons glacier is still relatively OK.  

Grands Mulets

Virtually nobody in this sector despite the conditions being not bad for the time of year.  The hut warden has returned to the valley. He will go back up if requested, until the official closing on 31st July.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The section between the Tête Rousse and the Goûter hut is becoming dry.  A falling rock has ripped out the cable in the Grand couloir.  Good conditions above

Miage-Bionnassay Sector

The lower part of Mont Tondu is also becoming dry.

Good conditions for the Dômes de Miage traverse. There is still a lot of snow here and this makes the descent, (or ascent,) of the Aiguille de la Bérangère easier.

Some ice is appearing on the climb up to the Aiguille de Trè-la-Tète, when doing the traverse.

The Mettrier ridge integral was tracked on 18/07 in good conditions.

Parties have been doing the Tricot ridge. The traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay is in excellent condition.

Mont Blanc via the Gonella

Ancora tutto bene!  (Still good)

For the moment conditions are good for the Tournette Spur, (info click here).

Monzino Sector

The approach to the Eccles is OK.

Parties on the Brouillard and Innominata ridges (if frozen).

Climbing on the Pillar Rouge (Bonatti- Anneaux Magiques) and the Freney Pillar (approach: 40m of down climbing then a 50m abseil.)

Some parties on the Aiguille Blanche by the Schneider ledges and on the Peuterey integral, (good conditions, no further information.)

As for rock climbing, all are in condition, except for the Ratti-Vitale (Aiguille Noire) which is still wet.

Report 16 July 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 16 July 2021 18:59

Finally, the storms are over and “here comes the sun” (George Harrison)

However, caution will be needed over the next few days because all that precipitation has affected the conditions.  There has been a significant amount of snow above 3000m depending on the sector, (between 40 and 80 cm at the Cosmiques hut and 20 cm the Helbronner)  and many slopes throughout the range are heavily loaded.  Spontaneous avalanches are already happening .  With the rise in temperature, one needs to be very careful in the choice of snow route.  

The rain-snow limit fluctuated between 2500m and 3000m.

With the return of the sun and the rise of the thermometer, the rock routes exposed to the sun will dry quickly and soon return to the conditions described in the last update.  

The  Chamonix Aiguilles of Chamonix were well covered in snow.

The  Envers d’ Aiguilles sector also got some snow. However, climbing behind the hut was already feasible on Friday afternoon.  Likewise, for the Leschaux hut sector. The granite behind the Argentière hut should dry quickly.

Patience is needed for the big routes (Grandes Courses,)  which were plastered.

The Aiguilles Rouges was spared the snow, (just got soaked.)

Report 14th July 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Thursday, 15 July 2021 07:57

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 14/07/2021

Some activity in the high mountain was possible in the brief weather window last weekend. The conditions in this report are, therefore, from that weekend. The Chamoniarde will make a small update on Friday about the new snow,  (10 cm at the  Argentière hut Wednesday morning, 30 cm at the Cosmiques. knowing that it rained before turning to snow).  In exchange. please send information on conditions from your activities this coming weekend to Chamoniarde =)

Despite the snowfall, the rock dries quickly, especially on those routes facing the sun and the mixed routes have received a slight covering in snow.

The forecast for the week is for more bad weather with snowfall in the high mountains.  The sun should return at the weekend and during the week following, (hopefully an anticyclone.) This will mean again a risk of avalanches and snow slides in the first few days. (This avalanche on the Tacul normal route should act as a warning.)

The risk of storms in the range is high this year and needs to be taken into account when choosing a route..

A few days of good weather, (clear nights, good freezing, not too much wind, limited storm risk)  should finally get the season for doing the big routes started. 

Tour Sector

The bergschrund on the Aiguille du Tour normal route is opening up, but not yet a problem.   The Col Supérieur du Tour still has plenty of snow.  The bergshrund to reach the Table ridge is easy to cross.

No comments for the normal routes on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche.

Some activity on the Chardonnet (Forbes Ridge, Migot Spur,) thanks to a better freezing on Saturday and Sunday. A little reminder following several rescue operations by the PGHM from this summit :

-The Forbes ridge, though graded AD, can seem (too) long for a party at just that level and not moving together, (short roping).

- On the descent : a first party took the wrong way in bad weather and went too far right, (looking down) and ended up descending the lower part of the Bettembourg Gully. (They made it down, but it was far from ideal.). With the track in place other parties then followed this way. The normal descent is well to the left.

Argentière Sector

The approach to the hut is reasonably OK.  Care is needed on a traverse of the slabs at the foot of the ladders, (between two fixed ropes,) and on a snow patch to re-join the glacier, (also a rope in place.)

The Aiguille d'Argentière has been climbed: Whymper, Glacier du Milieu, Flèche Rousse Ridge, (best to wait a few days after the snowfall so that there is not too much in the upper part.)

Col du Tour Noir is OK.

There is too much snow for the moment on the Jardin Ridge.

Once it dries , the rock is good, crampons needed for the approaches.

Mer de Glace Right Bank : Charpoua / Couvercle/ Leschaux Sectors

As a reminder and even though it is still indicated on the IGN maps, the old approach path, (ladders removed) under the Flammes de Pierres  and the part along the Mer de Glace balcon below the Charpoua glacier no longer exists. Also, the Egralets ladders are no longer maintained and some of the fixings are missing at the level of the ledges, which can cause problems, especially for hikers.  (The moraine is not too bad, though it requires concentration.)  Therefore, it is better to use the new ladders directly below the Aiguille du Moine to reach this sector.  There are still some snow patches on the traverse to the Leschaux hut.

There is no longer any snow on the approach to Charpoua hut. The recent snowfall means patience needed before the Drus traverse will be in condition. The rock on the Flammes de Pierre dries quickly, slightly slower for the Evêque, (Contamine & Ciao Marco).

The Aiguille du Moine is being climbed, (Contamine, S ridge, normal route.)

Still problems with the Whymper Couloir, (bergschrund), which is only feasible in descent and early in the day.  Parties also turned back on the S Couloir of the Armand Charlet col (the upper part very dry).  No news for the Moine ridge,  (likely to have a lot of snow,) or for the Jardin ridge.

Given a good freeze, the normal route on the Droites should be OK, (the latest news is that the bergschrund on the access couloir still passable.)  Likewise, for the Courtes, (including the traverse.)   The Pointe Isabelle looks to be complicated.

In the Leschaux sector, the  N face of the Jorasses remains plastered, (begging the questions if there will be a window for the Walker or what the mixed route conditions will be in autumn.) In the meantime, climbing is possible on the routes above the hut. Patience needed for the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses.  The Périades and Aiguille de l'Eboulement should be OK, if it freezes.

Mer de Glace Left bank : Envers des Aiguilles Requin Sector

There is still snow on the approach to the hut, (a rope is useful on the glacier before the ladders leading to the Requin).

Once the rock dries, climbing will be possible on the lower Envers sectors,  ( Rouge/Verte towers, Pointe des Nantillons). 

The République/ Grepon-Mer de Glace bergschrund goes either by a snow bridge in the middle or on the slabs to the right, (move of IV.)   There is some snow in places on the ledges.  The descent by the Nantillons glacier is in good condition for the moment.

The Dent du Requin is being climbed : Chapeau à Corne ridge, Renaudie, (bergschrund OK, a section higher up is harder than given in the guidebook due to a rockfall).

Helbronner Sector

Despite the unstable weather, the classics in this area remain feasible :  Marbrées and Aiguilles d'Entrêves traverses, SE ridge of the Tour Ronde.

Though the Dent du Geant is still being done, be careful not to be caught out by the bad weather and the winter conditions, (verglas, snow.)  There is lots of snow on the approach to the Salle à Manger.

There have been several parties doing the  Rochefort Arete, said to be in good condition. Like the other “Grandes Courses”, patience is needed for the Jorasses traverse.  

Last weekend the Kuffner ridge was popular using the direct approach, (bergschrund OK, conditions good on the ridge.) The same was true for the Aiguilles du Diable traverse (lots of snow on the rocks, frequent use of crampons.) Think about the snow conditions on the descent, (Mont Maudit + Tacul).

In general, the bergschrunds for the rock climbs are OK. The Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul and Pointe Adolphe Rey were being climbed.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

It is OK for the traverse of the Valley Blanche, Cosmiques ridge and Pointes  Lachenal traverse (30m abseil, keep well to the right, looking down, when descending from the last point to keep away from the seracs.)  

The Midi-Plan ridge has been done, (no further info but looks OK).

Good conditions on the Triangle du Tacul thanks to the recent snowfall, especially for the Contamine Negri and the Contamine Grisolle  (here again take care of the snow conditions for the descent!)  The Chéré gully is also finally feasible again!

Condition good on the Trois Monts, if the snow is OK.

The S faces are popular: (Aiguille du Midi, Cosmiques Spur, Pointes Lachenal). A party turned back from the Gervasutti Pillar, (no further info, bergschrund?)

Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

Frendo Spur retracked. It looks like there is some snow on the rocks  and good conditions for the exit.

The  Papillons ridge, the Peigne (crampons no longer necessary for the normal route,) and the Grutter (crampons,) are popular.

There is still a good snowfield to reach the Blaitière Red Pillar.

Charmoz-Grepon:  glacier and bergschrund OK. A little bit of snow & verglas to reach Grand Charmoz summit, notably on the ledges.  Snow in the Charmoz-Grepon couloir, abseils. There is still snow and verglas on some sections to the N summit of the Grepon, (goes with aid), dry after that.   Descent by the col des Nantillons.

The Cordier Pillar has also been done.

Crampons remain useful for the Aiguille de l'M and the Petits Charmoz traverse.

Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets

Tracks were again seen last weekend on the plateaux, looked not too bad!  On the other hand, there is a lot of carrying, (walking on the glacier.) The N ridge of the Dôme is OK. This route is a good option for those wanting a “wilder” way to climb Mont Blanc on foot !

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

No Comments

Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay sector

The Conscrits hut is now approached by the summer path and footbridge.

Ideal conditions for the  Dômes  traverse, (be aware of the avalanche risk  at the Col de la Bérangère) and the Aiguille de Bionnassay (the rock section can be done with crampons).

Mont Blanc par Gonella

Buone condizioni !!!  (In condition)

Monzino Sector

The rock routes on the Aiguille Croux remain popular.

Likewise  for Punta Innominata (abseils and return by the glacier OK).

A party turned back after 2 pitches on the Ratti-Vitali (Aiguille Noire de Peuterey) : the rock was still wet due to melting snow.

Aiguille Blanche and Grand Pilier d'Angle are tracked (via Col de l'Innominata - Schneider ledges- Blanche - Col de Peuterey) but without exiting by the Peuterey ridge (return by the Col Eccles).

There are no particular problems on the way up the glacier to the Eccles bivouac.  From the Monzino hut it is possible to reach the Red Pillar of Brouillard, (dries quickly) directly, without going to the Eccles.   

The Innominata ridge was done about two weeks ago in good conditions.  No info for the Brouillard ridge.  At least 2 days of good weather is needed for the snow to settle and freeze for this sector to come into condition.    

Hiking

The snow continues to melt but is still there in places.

Crampons remain useful for :

- The TMB variants (Col des Fours and d'Arpette)

- Sector lacs Noirs / Col de la Glière

- Index traverse - lac Blanc (still two dangerous snowfields)

- The Tour des Aiguilles Rouges (the Bérard side of the Col de Salenton is well tracked and marked with poles.

- Mont Buet

- Col de la Terrasse

The Tricot footbridge (TMB variant) is closed until further notice -   council order  

It is now forbidden to bivouac on the Chailloux mountain (South side of the Aiguillette des Posettes). As a reminder, it is also forbidden to bivouac near the lac Blanc and at the Blaitière alpage.

Report 8th July 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 10 July 2021 13:28

The weather continues to be disappointing  with rain (snow), storms, wind, etc.  Freezing is not always good.  It has snowed at altitude, (for example, 20cm at the Aiguille du Midi on Thursday morning) and, as usual,  there has been a lot of wind.  On a positive note, this has prolonged the conditions for the snow and mixed routes.   Care is needed on slopes above 3500m. The rock routes should start drying out from Friday onwards.  

It is difficult to give reliable information about the high mountain, as the weather and conditions are so variable. It is, therefore , preferable to contact the OHM (Chamoniarde)  directly to discuss your projects.  It is also possible to contact the hut wardens.

Regarding hiking, the snow is going but still present in places. After all the rain, the trails are very wet: waterproof boots  are recommended!  

The Tour of Mont Blanc is OK with poles and good footwear. Crampons are probably needed for the Fours variant and the Fenetre d’Arpette.

Regarding the Aiguilles Rouges Tour, the Brévent col is OK from Planpraz (a few snowfields, no recent information on the snowfield under the ladders below the Brévent). On the other hand, the Col de Salenton has a lot of snow:  faint track on the west side;  a better track with markings on the Bérard side, crampons could be useful , (likewise for the Buet).

There is snow below the Albert 1er hut. The Jonction, (path closed above the Pyramides chalet on weekdays,) is now accessible to experienced hikers.

As for the mountain lakes, Lac du Brévent and Lac Blanc are  accessible from La Flégère or Col des Montets.  Approaching  Lac Blanc and the Lacs Noirs / Lac Cornu sector from the Index, is reserved for experienced, well-equipped hikers (poles and good footwear, (with crampons in the rucksack) .

Report 25 June 2021

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Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 26 June 2021 10:26

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS  25/06/2021

The weather continues to be unreliable. May was very unstable , then there was a 10-day heat wave, then last week there was more unstable weather with often poor night-time freezing. As a result, the  snow , technical mixed routes and “grand courses”, which should normally be in condition at this time of the year, are not.

The shorter classic routes or rock routes remain the  best option.

The storms of the last few days brought some snow, the amount varying according to the sector and the altitude: a dusting from 2500/3000m; 10-15cm at the Cosmiques hut; 15cm at the Durier hut, 5cm at the Argentière hut, 25-30cm on the Dômes de Miage.  There are probably more important accumulations above 3800 m, take care!  In all, a good covering of snow.  For example,  the track on the Tacul is no longer visible.  Some purges and slab avalanches could already be seen on Friday morning , e.g.  E face of Tacul, N face of Mont Blanc .

With the sun, the rock should dry quickly. There is also a small improvement in the mixed routes but do not expect miracles.

Tour Sector

There  are still some snow patches and greasy passages on the way up to the hut from the Col de Balme: only for experienced hikers with poles and good footwear.

Good conditions on the classic routes, (normal routes  Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche). The good tracks compensate for the bad refreezing.

For technical routes on the Chardonnet (Forbes ridge, Migot spur), it's more complicated. They should be OK. given good refreezing.

The Table ridge is being done regularly.

Argentière Sector

The Plan Joran lift opens this weekend. During the week, it operates only from 8 a.m. to 8:30 a.m. and from 4 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.

It's over for the N faces and for the Y couloir, (Aig d’Argentière ): large purges, runnels etc .  The Couturier has a lot of avalanche debris at the bottom and well loaded at the top.  Your choice!

The Flèche Rousse ridge is reported to be in good conditions when it freezes. Ditto for the Glacier du Milieu and the Whymper ,(Aiguille d'Argentière).

It may be a bit early for the Jardin ridge (quite a bit of snow).

Plenty of possibilities for rock climbing.

Charpoua Sector

The hut warden is there waiting for you! There is still some snow on the trail. It is preferable to take the  path with yellow markings.  (The one with shortcuts, green markings, is damaged by landslips).

It is too early for the traverse of the Drus, (approach gully avalanche prone, snow / ice above). Awaiting info on the state of the glacier.

Feasible to climb on the Flames of Pierre side. On the other side, it dries more slowly and needs a couple of days after rain.  

Talefre Sector

Access to the hut either by the new ladders (recommended) or the Egralets (shorter  but the  moraine unpleasant and the in-situ equipment not as well maintained.)

The crevasses a quickly opening up and there have been a lot of landslides.

For the Contamine on the  Aiguille du Moine the bergscrund is OK and the rock dry. There are still some problematical snow patches on the normal route, which may need abseiling on descent.

Some parties turned back from the Whymper couloir due to the lack of refreezing.  Need to see what it is like with a good refreezing (bergschrund?)  OK in descent . The Moine ridge will have been climbed, (no further information).

Jardin Ridge was done last week.

The normal route on the Courtes is in good condition if it freezes, (some  ice above the Col des Courtes).

Still sometimes steep snowfields on the balcony paths of the Mer de Glace, but feasible for experienced, well-equipped hikers (crampons).

Leschaux Sector

The N face of the Grandes Jorasses, which had been dry, is now plastered. It will take a period of good weather to clear it again.

The routes above the hut are dry but it is a bit early for the Petites Jorasses and the Aiguille de Leschaux.

The climb up to the Périades is OK given a good refreezing. Some doubt about the SW couloir of the Emboulement, it is probably over for the season, (inquire at the hut).

Envers des Aiguilles

The opening of the hut has been postponed to July 1st.

Take care as there is still snow on the approach to the hut, (on the traverse.)  

The normal route of the République and the Grépon-Mer de Glace were climbed ten days ago, (begschrunds OK, descent via the Nantillons glacier OK too). The (many) bergschrunds on the Ryan look to be OK recently.  No problems for the climbs on lower rocks (Pointe des Nantillons etc).

Requin Sector

Access to the refuge: still snow on the Mer de Glace. No problems with either the true left bank moraine or the ladders.

The ascent of the Valley Blanche is still filled in and OK,  though it may be necessary to retrack.  The descent from Midi Plan via the Envers du Plan glacier looks OK.

Chapeau à Corne ridge was done last weekend. There is still a snowfield on the descent (abseiling).

Helbronner Sector

Here too, limited activity due to lack of refreezing. The Kuffner ridge (new tracks visible) and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse have had little traffic since the last bulletin. The Rochefort Arete has not been done for at least 15 days. It is still too early to continue on to the traverse of the Jorasses.

The traverses of the Marbrées and the Aiguille d’ Entrêves OK but crowded.

The N face of the Tour Ronde has been affected by the warmth, (last ascent on Sunday 20/06). The gully directly above the Freshfield col goes in descent but not in ascent, (overhanging bergschrund). SE ridge is OK.

Following the storms there is a light dusting of snow on the Satellites which should clear rapidly. Frost on the Dent du Géant but two parties still managed to climb it on Wednesday 23/06. Conditions should improve.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

15 cm of fresh snow this morning, (Friday) at the Col du Midi. The normal route was retraced on foot and on skis this morning, (parties had turned around yesterday.)  The Mont Maudit col was also retracked , (no further information).  There is also a track coming from the top of the Kuffner.  Many obstacles on the Midi-Plan traverse due to  lack of freezing.

Otherwise there is little change, with people doing the easy classic routes (Lachenal, Cosmiques,) or rock climbs while waiting for better weather and freezing conditions.   Nothing special to report about the traverse of the Valley Blanche.

Still no news about the Gervasutti pillar, (only to be expected, given the weather and snow).

Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

Frendo spur: parties to attempt it on Saturday, (forecast for a good freeze.)  It looks like this route will be in condition only for a short time this year. (The exit is already grey ice.)

The Papillons couloir is dry (crampons not essential for the Papillons ridge and the Minettes Spur).

The normal route on the Peigne, the Grutter etc are OK but crampons and ice axe advisable. Ditto for the Aiguille de l'M,(NE ridge, normal route) and for the approach to the Pillar Rouge de Blaitière.

No information yet on Charmoz-Grépon (upper parts snow dusted by thunderstorms, residual snow in the shaded passages?), Should come into condition soon.

Mont Blanc via the Grands Mulets

Still ski activity!

Access to the hut is itself already an alpine route! Quite a bit of ski carrying from the Plan de l'Aiguille (you ski under the Mallory and at the glacier). The Jonction still goes either high or low, your choice, (crevasses are appearing.)  As is to be expected at this time of the year, crossing the Jonction can be complicated.

The plateaus were tracked this morning, (Friday) on foot and on skis. Only a few parties on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter ,(ice just below the surface, 2 ice axes recommended).

Mont Blanc via the Aiguille du Goûter

The Mont Blanc Tramway should be open tomorrow, (Saturday) as far as the Nid d'Aigle.

Still a lot of snow to go up to Tête Rousse.

Large runnel. (2m deep) in the Grand couloir. Quite a few rock falls reported last week in the absence of refreezing. Here too, the recent snow and better refreezing should improve conditions.

Crevasses are appearing on the climb up to the Dome de Goûter.

Bosses ridge in good condition.

Miage / Bionnassay Sector

Work on the footbridge on the summer path to the Conscrits hut will be carried out all next week for a possible opening on the weekend of 3-4 / 07. Access to the hut is therefore via the Mauvais Pas and the glacier (alpinists only). Try to get there early.

No changes on the Mont Tondu side since the last newsletter. Likewise, nothing to report for the Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back.

Dômes traverse is in good conditions, (25-30 cm of fresh snow Friday morning.)  The ridge up to the Aiguille de la Bérangère is narrow and airy.

Still no news about the Aiguilles de Trè la Tête traverse.

Access to Durier hut (15 cm at the hut on Friday morning) is almost dry (snow on the last 100m below r the col). Traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay in good conditions (retraced this morning).

Mont Blanc from Gonella

Good track on the glacier, then good conditions from beyond the Piton des Italiens.

Monzino

No one has yet had the courage to go up to Eccles Bivouac, (lots of snow and no refreezing). The task promises to be tough for those who will put in a track, but the conditions of the routes (Brouillard – Innominata ridges - Red Pillar du Brouillard) should be OK soon.

Nobody on the side of the Punta Innominata either. It is still a bit early for the Ratti on the Aiguille Noire ,(South ridge OK). The Aiguille Croux is being climbed.

Aiguilles Rouges

Even if it is quickly melting, there is still a lot of snow about, making crampons and ice axes often useful for the approaches. They are not necessary to access the long routes under the Brévent, (Frison Roche or Poème à Lou sector).

Please note, it is not recommended to climb Cocher Cochon, as there is a snowfield on the slabs between the short abseil and the last bastion.

The Crochues traverse is good ,(crampons necessary on the approach, ) despite a delicate step to pass the gap between the snow and the rock at the start. No snow on the ridge or on the ledges.  

Crampons and ice axe are necessary on the Perrons traverse.

Hiking

The snow is gradually melting, and conditions continue to improve. Most of the hikes are now practicable. Others require one to be careful, surefooted and to be properly equipped (good boots and poles). Examples:

- Plan Glacier hut by the Miage chalets

- Nid d’Aigle

- Col d'Anterne

- Brévent / Brévent lake via Bel Lachat or the Brèche du Brévent from Planpraz

- Lac Blanc from Flégère or Col des Montets / Trè-le-Champs

- Grand Balcon Nord between Montenvers and Plan de l'Aiguille

Two other possibilities for the more experienced: Lac Blanc from the Index and the Albert 1er hut.

Hikes that are not advisable except for the very experienced  because of snow and exposed passages are:

- the traverse from the Col de Tricot to the Plan Glacier hut

- Jonction,  (also the path is closed for works until 30^th June)

- Lac Cornu and Lacs Noir / Col de la Glière

- Mont Buet

- Col de la Terrasse / Emosson sector

There is still snow on the Tour du Mont Blanc high cols. Poles and good footwears are needed. A pair of crampons in the bottom of the rucksack is good for peace of mind, (hard snow in the morning.)

Crampons are still recommended for the TMB variants (Col des Fours and Arpettes) and for the Tour des Aiguilles Rouges.

There is a  deviation at the level of the footbridge on the Planpraz Vertical Kilometre (officially, this is not a footpath but the line of evacuation under the cable car.)

The path up to the Chapeau buvette has reopened.

Alpine ClubCast 26 - 22nd June at 19:30

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Thursday, 17 June 2021 09:23

Women Rise Up: Female Climbing Pioneers with special guest Catherine Destivelle

This year the Alpine Club is celebrating the 150th anniversary of four major first ascents in the Alps.  In 1871, Lucy Walker and Meta Brevoort made the first female ascents of the Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Bietschhorn and the Dent Blanche.  Over 200 women recently applied to join a meet hosted by the Alpine Club this summer, which aims to bring together a diverse group of women to commemorate this extraordinary year in female mountaineering.  The aim is to broaden access to mountaineering through inspiration, in the same way that Walker and Brevoort did for women a century and a half ago.  Whereas only 30 places were available for this meet, the Alpine Club sees Women Rise Up as an important new initiative for future years.

Tonight Catherine Destivelle, the first female recipient of the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, joins us to talk about her journey.  Historian Clare Roche will outline the events of 1871 and Women Rise Up Climbing Coordinator Becky Coles will talk about Women Rise Up activities.  The ClubCastwill be guest-hosted by Melanie Windridge.

As usual the evening will finish with a Q&A

Report 16th June 2021

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Wednesday, 16 June 2021 20:24

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 16/06/2021

Summer is here !

Despite the clear nights with a reasonable amount of freezing, the days rapidly become hot and « sweaty . However, this morning (16th) there was no re-freezing and a lot of the parties turned back.  With the high temperatures and a tendance for foehn winds the next few days, conditions are unlikely to be good.  There have been many (snow) avalanches between the 2800 et 4000m altitudes, (N face Aiguille Argentière, N face Aiguille du Midi, Dolent), indicating an unstable snow cover, ( a cocktail of weak layers, little re-freezing, and high daytime temperatures. )

The snow routes are generally in good condition if there is a night-time freeze. It is probably over for the technical mixed routes, and for skiing, (apart from Mont Blanc.) The rock routes are becoming feasible just about everywhere. 

Tour Sector

Generally good conditions in this sector.  The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (Forbes Arete + Migot Spur; descend early), are popular.

The Table ridge is becoming more popular than the Table Couloir.  

The rock on the Dorées S Face is being climbed, (the traverse still has quite a bit of snow.)

Argentière Sector

The hut opens this weekend. Snowshoes are still useful in this sector until the tracks become more established.  The Couturier couloir, Y couloir (conditions will quickly change) and the glacier du Milieu are popular.

The rock here is waiting to be climbed  :)

Mer de Glace Sector

It is advised not to visit the Moulins and the Bédière because a glacier lake has formed on the Mer de Glace below the Envers des Aiguilles.   

The Leschaux and Requin huts are due to open this weekend.

A lot of people on the Whymper and by the Jardin ridge, (bergschrund OK but for how long?).  An early start is imperative, to be able to descend in the morning.

No news for the Pointe Isabelle, the normal route on the Droites or the Aiguille du Moine (still snow on the normal route?)

The rock is slowly drying in all this sector, (crampons and ice axe for the approach.)  However, it is perhaps too early for the long routes and ridges, (Moine ridge on the Verte, Walker, Grepon-Mer de Glace etc). Maybe the Ryan ridge will be possible if it freezes enough to overcome the bergschrund.

Helbronner / Monzino Sector

It did not freeze this morning, (16th), most of the parties returned early to the hut!

Otherwise, conditions are generally good with plenty of people for the Dent du Geant, (the approach to the Salle à Manger still has a good snow cover,)  the Marbrées traverse, the Aiguille d'Entrêves traverse, the N face Tour Ronde (the “normal route” is no longer being done , it is necessary to pass by the col Freshfield and it is for the  Gervasutti couloir); the Brenva Spur; the Kuffne Ridger and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse.

The Rochefort Arete was done yesterday (15th) there and back.  It is a bit too early to attempt the traverse of the Jorasses; (the Boccalatte hut is closed all summer.) 

On the approach to the Monzino hut, the via ferrata has cleared but there is still snow below the hut.  The Pointe. Innominata and the Aiguille Croux (normal route, Ottoz, SE ridge; snow on the abseils but not a problem), are being climbed. 

Nobody has gone up to the Eccles and there is still a lot of snow, The Pilier Rouge du Brouillard looks to be dry.  It needs a good freeze and someone well-motivated to break the trail!  

Aiguille du Midi Sector

As a reminder, the top station of the Aig du Midi is not a refuge and overnighting there is forbidden.

The Cosmiques ridge remains in good condition, (but crowded !). The Pointes Lachenal traverse is being done (though the passage near the abseil remains unstable.) The Contamine-Grisolle and Contamine Negri are also being climbed. The traverse from the summit of the Triangle to the Tacul  normal route is OK.

Generally good conditions for the Trois Monts, (fragile ice below the Col du Mont Maudit, no ice on the traverse towards the Brenva col and improved conditions on the Mur de la Côte due to the snowfall during the storms last week. There is a good foot track. It is more awkward on ski, (better to carry them, which avoids spending time to take on and off skis or crampons while below the seracs.)  Remember this is a route exposed to serac fall, and is technical, especially in descent,  (snow stake for possible abseil in place at the Col du Mont Maudit.)  To get the best ski conditions, one should think of doing the Mont Blanc in three days, with a night at the Grands Mulets on the descent.

The Midi-Plan ridge is tracked, there are still some large cornices and snow mushrooms.  It is necessary to leave from the hut to be early enough on the route.

The S face of the Aiguille du Midi, the Cosmiques Spur and the S face of the Lachenal are being climbed.

Plan de l'Aiguille / Grands Mulets Sector

The infamous sérac between the Frendo Spur and the Mallory has become unstable and threatens the base of the N face.  It is advised not to climb the Mallory, (the end of the ramp would be exposed if the collapse was bigger than foreseen.)  Use the lower track to access the Grand Mulets.  The Frendo Spur is feasible as long as one keeps well to the left on the approach.

To get to the Grands Mulets, it is necessary to go along under the N face of Aiguille du Midi  and keep low to pass the moraines where it is vegetated. Then go up via a flat area below the attack gully for the Mallory. After this, there are still two options to cross the Jonction (high or low.) 

Conditions for skiing remain generally good. The N ridge of the Dôme is being done and stable for the moment, (no ice, one axe suffices, but two more comfortable.)  The snow on the  N face remains “cold”,  the snow at the plateaux has transformed, or hard if one descends early to cross the Jonction at a good time.

Climbing on the Aiguille de l'M and Pilier Rouge de Blaitière should be feasible. No info for the Papillons Ridge. Crampons and maybe an ice axe are useful for the approaches.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

Fairly good conditions , though the stone fall has started in the Grand Couloir. Think to cross it as early as possible, both in ascent and descent.

Miage / Bionnassay Sector

If the works go well, the footbridge on the approach to the Conscrits hut should be in place by the beginning of July.

The traverse of the Dômes de Miage is in good condition.  The ridge up to the Aiguille de la Bérangère is thin.  

Mont Tondu is being done but take care on the slopes underneath the Pointe des Lanchettes.

The N face of the Aiguille de Tré la Tête is in good condition.  The traverse has not yet been tracked, (two large avalanches on the decent from the Col des Glaciers).

Gonella Sector

A recent report in the OHM route book:

https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/cahier-de-courses#

There are parties planning to do the Tournette Spur, waiting for their info!

Aiguilles Rouges

Crampons and ice axe necessary for the approaches to the rock routes .

Hiking and the Tour du Mont Blanc

Find the latest updates ici !