Report 5th September 2017
After a few days of mixed weather, the sun is back again in the mountains. The rock routes at altitude are generally dry, though some ledges are holding snow and there is a risk of verglas in shaded areas.
- Albert 1er : The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche have been done recently. The Aiguille du Tour remains feasible by the Table Ridge and the normal route. There is a fixed rope to help cross the begschrund. The cols to cross to and from the Trient glacier are still awkward and some parties have turned back.
- Argentière : The hut shuts on 7th September. The access to and from the glacier via Lognan has been affected by the pipelaying works. At Grand Montets, the Petite Verte is no longer practical but the Belvedere, (East) ridge remains feasible. Care needed with the bergschrund at the Col du Grand Montets.
- Couvercle : The Moine has dried well. The normal route and S ridge are feasible even though there is still some snow near the top. The Contamine route looks more awkward. The Moine Ridge on the Verte seems like it should soon be feasible. The landline at the hut is not working, please use the mobile number to make a reservation.
- Leschaux : The routes near the hut are dry, but there is still some snow on the W face of the Petites Jorasses.
- Envers des Aiguilles : There is still snow on the upper third of the Aiguilles but, Tour Rouge ,Tour Verte and the Pointes des Nantillons are being climbed. There is no water at the hut; fill your bottles at the stream a few turns before the hut. There are some water containers along the path, you can fill them and attach them to the rope, so that they can be hauled up to the hut.
- Requin : The hut is closed. There are 12 bunks with blankets in the winter room; no gas but there are cooking pots etc.
- Torino : Conditions OK for the traverses of the Rochefort , Entrèves and Marbrées. No problems for the S facing routes on the Tacul satellites. The Dent du Geant still has snow and verglas, but still some parties managed to climb it today.
- Les Cosmiques : Nobody has done the 3 Monts route up Mont Blanc yet. This is due to the amount of fresh snow. No problems for the Laurence and Cosmiques ridges. Conditions for the Pointes Lachenal traverse are temporary better due to the new snow. Foresee an abseil of 35m.
Frendo Spur and Midi-Plan traverse are not recommended as the conditions are too dry.
- Goûter / Tête Rousse : The normal route up Mont Blanc was tracked this morning. The Mont Blanc tramway is closed and it is forbidden to walk along the rail track!! The approach to the huts is by the Rognes path or the Chalets de l'Are. The Bellevue cable car remains open until 24th September.
- Durier / Conscrits : The Durier is shut but the Conscrits will be open for a few more days yet. There has been no activity recently due to the recent bad weather. The “there and back” either to the Central or the East Dôme, via the Col des Domes, remains feasible, however, conditions are awkward on the Tré la Tête glacier. The traverse of the Dômes is not in condition.
La Chamoniarde would like to remind you that they are collecting as much information as possible and the more reports they receive about your outings the better their advice will be.
