The Club produces a regular English translation of the Chamonix conditions report from La Chamoniarde to help climbers without an understanding of French to access up-to-date information on conditions in the valley. An archive of these reports can be seen below: 


Report 6th February 2018

Since the last update, there was snowfall on 2nd February of about 30cms at 2000m.

Ski touring has since been very popular in the Argentière, Tour and Aiguilles Rouges sectors.

Chamoniarde has received the following information:

- when descending the true left bank of the Tour Glacier, (e.g. from the Col du Passon), it is best to exit to the right, (below the glacier.)

- Valley Blanche conditions:  the snow quality is bad, (crusty / corrugated).  The wind has caused numerous crevasses to reappear, often partially hidden by “cock’s combs”, (icy ridges.)

- at the entry into the “salle à manger” under the Requin hut, there is a particularly treacherous crevasse, take care! 

- there are now 2 ropes installed on the Aig du Midi ridge and the descent with crampons goes well. The « Z » track is still under construction.

Report 31 January 2018


There has been a lot of activity during the recent good weather, which now is due to deteriorate for the next few days.


Ski touring conditions have generally been good with most of the classic routes tracked.  Snow quality varies according to altitude and aspect.


The cols in the Argentière sector have been done, including the 3 Cols.  (foresee a 30m abseil from the Col du Chardonnet.)
There has also been activity at the Col des Cristaux , Col des Courtes and the NE face of the Courtes.
Tête Blanche was done via the Col du Passon.  The descent to La Tour is good, apart from the lower part where conditions are pretty average.


A lot of activity in the Aiguilles Rouges, no further information on the snow quality.

The Buet and Col de la Terrasse are tracked. The climb up to Loriaz is exclusively by the forestry track. The path leading off to the right between Les Granges and la Croix de Loriaz is closed by a council order.
If descending by Tré les Eaux, a rope is needed to cross the torrent.  Bel Oiseau from La Léchère is tracked.


The Vallée Blanche is popular. For the moment, only the crest of the ridge is equipped with safety ropes.   Brèche Puiseux and the Col du Tacul are in good condition.
The descent to Chamonix via Les Mottets is good for the moment.  It has been “piste bashed” but care is still needed.


No information concerning the alpine gullies; the faces still look very dry.


Ice Climbing:  Cogne has the best conditions, though there has been some activity on the Rive Gauche of the Argentière Glacier (EMHM, Mini Couloir, Tequila Stuntman, Crèmerie).

 Snow Shoeing:  Conditions are OK though the snow is fairly hard, crusty or icy depending on the sector and altitude


A big thank you to those people who have contributed to the online route book.



Report 25th January 2018


After several weeks of severe weather, things are slowly returning to normal.  To check on the latest situation for the lifts click here. .


With the better weather, there is again activity in the mountains.


Vallée Blanche: A single fixed rope has been in place on the ridge since 24th January.  The conditions remain variable, requiring a very good ski technique.  The lift from the ice caves back up to Montenvers is still closed, making it necessary to return via les Mottets.


As well as damaging the lift installations, the winds have stripped the mountain faces.  The Tacul Triangle, the Tour Ronde and the Grand Jorasses are grey, (bare ice.)


At Argentière, the top lift at Grand Montets is still closed for maintenance.  To reach the Argentière glacier one needs to set off from the top of the Herse or the Bochard.  The Cols du Tour Noir and Passon are tracked, no further information.


Ice Climbing:   EMHM and Déferlante have been climbed but the Rive Droite still looks out of condition.


Ski Touring: Conditions should soon improve, Flégère has only just re-opened and the OHM/Chamoniarde has not received any news about the tours in the Aiguilles Rouges.  

The way up to Loriaz and the Bosse des Charmoz is tracked.  It is necessary to remove the skis to get past some fallen trees. Only the forest track is allowed, the summer path between Granges and La Croix is closed by an arrêté municipal.


Snow Shoeing:  The signposted routes are accessible. There are sections of bare ice on the footpaths along the valley floor; hiking poles and maybe small crampons, are advisable.   


The Chamoniarde relies on your feedback to create the updates.  Please do not hesitate to write up your outings in the cahier de courses  or give them a phone call. Whether the conditions were good or bad, the information is always useful and most welcome. 



Report 12 January 2018

At last the good weather has returned!

Be careful along the valley floor, there is hard packed snow with patches of bare ice on the footpaths. This is the case up to about 1800m


Ski Touring:   In the Aiguilles rouges the cols Belvédère – Dards – Crochues Bérard are tracked. Depending on altitude and aspect, the snow can be crusted, and becoming heavy below, 2300m.

The cols Cicle and Fenêtre at Contamines are also tracked.

Aiguillette des Posettes by the Ardoisières : take care at the start, hard snow with frozen avalanche debris, (not for beginners.)

Argentière Sector: The top cable car at Grands Montets is still not open (12th January) due to security checks following the storms.  It has been reported that, following 6 days of snow, the cols look to be OK except for the glacier du Milieu. 

Clearly, a lot of other ski tours are now tracked, though we have not received any information for the moment.


Vallée Blanche: It is being skied! The ridge is not yet equipped, (some stakes only) and the route has a mountaineering feel to it at the start of this season. The level of snow cover is generally good. The «Salle à Manger » is OK.  The way to the Mottets is tracked.  There is some verglas on the track down to Chamonix.  


Ice climbing:  Parties have gone to the Cremerie and Argentiere Rive Gauche, no further information for the moment.


Winter Mountaineering and Gullies:  No information for the moment.


This update is brief, and is limited by the amount of information received by the OHM.


Report 8th January 2018

A quick update on conditions following the violent storms.


Most of the lifts will remain closed, (especially the Aiguille du Midi and Grands Montets) for several days, therefore limiting mountain activity.  


Since the large snowfalls at the end of December it has been unseasonably warm with the snow/rain limit is around 2500m. 


In the high mountain there have been violent winds with gusts over 200 km/h at the Aiguille du Midi; greatly affecting the snow cover.


The faces and gullies remain extremely dry and there is very little snow on the glaciers, especially lower down.


Vallée Blanche: The ridge is not equipped but the route has been skied on a few occasions.  A high level of expertise, together with excellent glacier skills are essential.
Le Pas de Chèvre: The exit is totally impractical, the moraines have no snow and are unstable.


Below 3000 m, there is a good snow cover but with the unseasonably high temperatures and the rain, the conditions are mediocre.  Sharp edges on your skis are recommended!


Ice climbing: The Cremerie is more like a site for canyoning.   On the Rive Droite, (Argentiere), it looks like the lower part of Icelander has collapsed and there is a large fracture line at the foot of Grand Bleu.


Ski touring: The snow is generally good for skiing in the high mountain.  At mid altitudes, the snow is less accommodating, (hard and crusty).


The paths along the valley floor and the marked snow shoe trails are accessible, but take care as there are sections with bare ice.  


More unstable weather is forecast for the next few days with wind at altitude, (the foehn has already been blowing for two days,) but without much snow.

Please do not forget to inform the OHM of your outings and conditions experienced.

Report 30th December 2017

The weather continues unsettled and frequent snowfalls are accompanied by strong winds at altitude.  Over the past 3 days there has been a significant increase to the snowpack, (one and a half metres at 2000m).  A marked warm spell is now present.

The avalanche risk is high this weekend.

Be cautious!  The conditions are unusual and difficult to analyse.  Consult BERA, (Avalanche Risk site) or the professionals and be properly equipped, (transceiver, shovel, probe as a minimum.)   If in doubt, go with a guide.   

Ski touring and snow shoeing: be aware that the weight of the snow could bring down trees.

You are reminded that access to the ski areas is forbidden other than during the official opening hours.  This is because of the activities of the piste bashers, PIDA. (purging by the avalanche patrol) etc.  This includes the lower slopes, (e.g Nants piste, Trapette).

The prepared ski touring tracks are closed for the moment, (except for the one at Les Houches.)