Report 29 June 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 29/06/2019

Some (brief) information for this week of the heatwave.

The snow continues to melt at mid-altitudes.  However, the situation has not changed greatly since the last update.

Good footwear and poles are still needed for the Lac Blanc, Albert 1^er hut, Lac du Brévent and the Bellachat hut from the Brevent summit.  

Conditions for the Jonction, Tour des Aiguilles Rouges (Col du Brévent and Salenton), the sector Col Cornu/Col de la Glière/Lacs Noirs, the Buet and the Col de la Terrasse are still not good.  (Only for well experienced and equipped hikers.)

On the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is still a bit of snow at the Col du Bonhomme and Grand Col Ferret. The traverse between Arp Vieille and Checrouit is now fine for people with good footwear and poles. The "Ville des Glaciers" side and the Fours variant are now feasible for experienced, well equipped hikers. On the other hand, the Val d'Arpette variant remains too dangerous.

Some sectors in the Houches and Servoz communes are to be avoided due to numerous fallen trees following a storm a couple of weeks ago. (Col de la Forclaz, Grosses Pierres). The “Pistes et Sentiers” team are busy clearing the paths.

For the alpinists, conditions are not as bad as expected.  With the clear skies at night, there is some slight re-freezing.  However, this might change as the forecast is for evening storms over the next days.

The rock routes are the best option, (good conditions in the Argentière, Flammes de Pierres/Charpoua, Couvercle, Leschaux, Envers des Aiguilles, Satellites du Tacul, Aiguilles de Chamonix, Monzino, Dalmazzi sectors...).

Certain classic snow routes remain in reasonable condition, (Aiguille du Tour, Mont Blanc, Aiguille de Bionnassay, Dômes de Miage...). The technical mixed routes, however, are not recommended.

For more precise and up to date information on a specific route, do not hesitate to contact the Office de Haute Montagne directly.

Thank you in advance for sending information on your outings to Chamoniarde, to help them prepare the next conditions update.

Report 23 June 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 23/06/2019

A quick update before the heatwave forecast for this week.

Hiking

The thaw continues and will accelerate with the heatwave. However, snow remains in certain sectors.  

The Tour du Mont Blanc, Lac Blanc, Grand Balcon Nord, Point de Vue (Argentière Glacier) are now accessible to those with good footwear and poles, (soft snow).

Ice axe and crampons remain necessary for those going to Jonction, Tour des Aiguilles Rouges, Lacs Noirs et Cornu, Albert 1er hut and the Buet.

As well as the risk of slipping, care is needed when crossing snow covered torrents as the snow bridges are likely to be weak.

Alpinism

The good conditions are going to rapidly change with the imminent of a heatwave.

The re-freezing is likely to be very poor to non-existent, leading to weak snow bridges, awkward bergschrunds, risk of stone fall and unstable snow slopes.  

The spell of good weather will encourage alpine activity.   Because of the expected rapid change in conditions, there is little point in giving a detailed report of recent climbs.  

Rock routes will probably be the best option in the coming week.  However, some snow routes will still be feasible.  The trick is to make the right choice of route, taking into account the latest information before starting out and making the right decisions whilst on the route.  

With the rapidly evolving conditions, the Chamoniarde team thanks you in advance for sending them information from your outings, which allows them to prepare an accurate update for other alpinists.  

Report 17th June 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 17/06/2019

Finally, some weather that could be called “summer”.

The snow is rapidly melting from the mid mountain and the trails are becoming more and more popular for properly equipped hikers.  Note: some paths remain unadvisable to non-alpinist hikers. For example, the north side of the Aiguilles Rouges (Aiguillette des Houches from the Brévent, Col du Brévent, Lac Cornu and Lacs Noirs, Col de la Glière, Col de Salenton / Buet), Nid d'Aigle, Jonction, Grand Balcon Nord, Albert Premier, Col de la Terrasse.

With a return of good weather, there is a need for prudence.  The rescue organizations fear there could be an increase in the number of accidents as a result of people slipping on hard snows.  This could be particularly bad because the snow is now in patches, meaning a slide could end up into rocks.  Also, there is a risk of snow bridges collapsing when crossing mountain streams.  

Ice axe and crampons are still necessary to reach some climbing areas in the Aiguilles (The approaches to the Chéserys and Mont Oreb are dry).

In the high mountain, the conditions are now more typical for this time of year.  The snow is firmer, with the recent snowfall stabilizing quickly. It is, however, soft in the afternoon.  Snowshoes are no longer essential.  Generally, the classic snow and mixed routes are in good condition, (assuming a good night-time freeze).   The rock routes on the S faces are Ok but it is still early for the long ridge routes and the N facing rock climbs.

Tour Sector

It is still recommended to approach the hut by the moraine.  The traverse approach from Charamillon and the Autannes chairlift has sections of snow, where a slip would have serious consequences: hikers are advised not to use this option.

Aiguille du Tour and Table Ridge are OK.  There is still some deep snow in the Table Couloir. The normal route is in good condition. 

-Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are OK.

-Parties went today, Monday, for the Dorées traverse and the S ridge of the Purtscheller, no further information.  

-The Chardonnet is not yet tracked. The snow looks to be stable on the upper slopes of the Migot.

Argentière Sector

The Plan Joran lift and the Argentière hut are open.  Generally, conditions are good. The hut approach is by the winter route and by the ladders, tracked by skis and foot. With skis, the approach is also possible by the Col des Rachasses and the Rognon glacier.

Good ski conditions for the Col du Tour Noir.

The Couturier was done in OK condition, (some ice), the bergschrund goes on the right.   

It is too early for the Tournier (too much snow)). The N faces (Droites, Courtes) are still dry.

The Courtes NE and the Col des Cristaux have purged and look to be feasible (on foot).

Aiguille d'Argentière: this Monday there were parties on the Y couloir and the Flèche Rousse Ridge, (should be in good condition). The Glacier du Milieu looks OK (on foot).

The rock climbs in this sector are drying rapidly.

La Charpoua

The hut is open, (new tel. No.  +33667250866). There is still a lot of snow on the hut approach, not recommended for hikers.

The Y Couloir is still feasible but maybe not for long.  The same is true for the Cardinal and the Sans Nom.

The Flammes de Pierre are very dry.  The Drus traverse is not yet in condition.

Talèfre Sector

Good conditions in this sector. Snowshoes are no longer essential, though the snow does become soft in the afternoon.

The Whymper Couloir, Col Armand Charlet and the normal route on the Droites are all popular.

The normal routes on the Courtes and Pointe Isabelle are not yet tracked but look to be OK.  

The Courtes traverse and the Aiguille du Moine look feasible, (S Ridge and E Face are dry but still snow patches on the normal route, care needed, especially when descending.

Leschaux

The hut is open. There is snow on the Leschaux glacier; the ladders are OK.  The balcon path still has a lot of snow.  It is tracked but wearing crampons and carrying an ice axe is essential.

The snow routes are in very good condition, (SE couloir of the Éboulement and Périades are tracked). The rock routes behind the hut are dry

It is still too early Petites Jorasses. The N face of the Grandes Jorasses is very dry, though still plastered low down.  (It is too early for the Walker.)

Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

The Requin hut is open and the Envers hut opens on the 25/06.

There is nothing special to note about the approach from Montenvers; still plenty of snow.   It remains possible to get to the Requin on skis from the Aiguille du Midi.

The rock climbing areas below the Envers hut are virtually dry.  The longer routes higher up are not yet in condition.

Near the Requin, the Aiguille de Pierre-Alain and the Chapeau à Corne Ridge (Dent du Requin) are dry.  The Renaudie still has a couple of snow patches.

The Vallée Blanche has been ascended on skis though not yet on foot.

Aiguille du Midi

As stated in last week’s bulletin, conditions are awkward on the Cosmiques Ridge near the rockfall zone.  It is now recommended to reach the gap by making an 8m abseil on the NW side and then bypass a pinnacle, still on the NW side, after the gap.

Conditions are OK for the Triangle du Tacul, (need now to overnight at the hut.)  The normal route on the Tacul is tracked both by foot and ski

The Pointes Lachenal traverse is in good condition. 

Midi-Plan Ridge is tracked as far as the Rognon with a descent to the Requin hut.

The S faces are being rock climbed, though some snow remains on the ledges.

Plan de l'Aiguille

The Eugster Diagonal and the Mallory have been climbed.  (It is necessary to either sleep at the hut or bivouac at the foot of the route.) There was a party on the Frendo Spur, even though it is not dry yet.  The Papillons Ridge and the other rock routes in the area are also not dry yet.

Grands-Mulets

It is now necessary to carry the skis for 20 to 30 minutes from the Plan de l'Aiguille.

Crossing the Jonction is still OK.  The conditions on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter have deteriorated due to strong winds, (15 m of ice, requires steel crampons and perhaps two ice axes.)  

The N face was skied on the true left, in good conditions.  The Corridor route was also skied, no further info. (Verglas on the Mur de la Côte)  

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

There is still no date for the opening of the final stage of the TMB up to the Nid d'Aigle.

The Nid d'Aigle hut will open on the 19th June. There is still plenty of snow above this, so it is better to via the true right bank of the Bionnassay glacier than via the Barraque des Rognes.

The cable for crossing the Grand Couloir is in place. The snow is hard on the Bosses Ridge.

Plan Glacier / Durier

The approach is by the Moraine de l'Ours with the snow starting around 2630 m. The Contrebandiers footpath, (which traverses in from the Col de Tricot,) is not yet being used; it still has snow patches.

- The Mettrier Ridge has been done in good conditions, (snow all the way).  

- The classic approach to the Durier hut is not tracked but should be OK.  (Up to now, the parties have come to it either by the Mettrier or the Dômes de Miage).  

- A party did a “there and back” and another the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay on Monday; no further information.

Trè la Tête Sector

The approach remains by the Mauvais Pas and the glacier.

Mont Tondu is tracked.

Conditions are good for the Dômes de Miage traverse and the Bérangère.  The snow on the Armancette glacier is very hard in the morning, one needs to be confident with crampons.  

There has been nobody recently either on the Lée Blanche (though a party is foreseen to do it on Tuesday) or the Aiguille de Trè-la-Tête.

Gonella

The glacier is in good condition. The ridge after Piton des Italiens is broad and without ice.  

Monzino

The hut is open. There is still a small snow field to cross to reach the hut. Only the Ottoz on the Croux has been done recently.  The Innominata should be feasible, (needs a “hero” to break trail!)

Helbronner Sector

The Tour Ronde (N Face, Gervasutti Couloir, Col Freshfield), Aiguilles d'Entrèves, Aiguille de Toule, Dent du Géant (some verglas on Monday morning) are all in good condition and are being done regularly.

A party turned back on the Rochefort Ridge due to too much snow.

A party is foreseen for the Kuffner on Tuesday.

People are starting to rock climb on the Satellites, even though they is still a bit damp

Dalmazzi 

The hut opens on the 22nd June. There is a lot of snow above 2800/3000 m.  The SE Ridge of the Aiguille de Savoie, (Preuss route,) is in mixed conditions.

Mont Dolent was done 16/06 in good conditions on skis from the Italian Val Ferret, (put the skis on at about 2100m).

Snow Conditions 12th June 2019

Some information concerning the amount of snow that has fallen over the last two days

This morning (Wednesday) it was reported:

- Cosmiques Hut: 60 cm on average, wind affected.
- Couvercle Hut: 15 cm, the snow settling rapidly.
- Albert 1er Hut: 40 cm on average, wind affected.
- Conscrits Hut: only a few centimètres due to the strong foehn wind.

- Grands Mulets Hut: 60 cm (wind)
- Tête Rousse Hut: 40/60 cm
- Torino Hut: between 20 and 40 cm (wind)

As activity in the high mountains is only just restarting, there is no information for conditions above the huts.  Be warned, there is likely to be important accumulations of snow in certain sectors due to the strong winds. 

For the moment, (Wednesday,) there is a lot of fresh snow on the rocks in the Aiguille Rouges.

Report 6th June 2019

Some information for this Whit weekend.

Some of the lifts open on Saturday, 8th June: Bellevue cable car, Prarion telecabins (only at the weekends until 23 June), Planpraz telecabins, Brevent cable car, Charamillon telecabins and Autannes chairlift.  The Montenvers train, Aiguille du Midi cable car and the Skyway Monte Bianco remain open.

Specific information for hikers: The opening of the lifts allows one to easily gain altitude.  However, despite the start of the thaw, there is still a lot more snow above 2000m than usual for the time of year. There is a risk of slipping/falling, the paths and waymarks are often not visible and there are weak snow bridges over fast flowing streams.

Warning: Some of the classic hikes are not currently feasible, being more like alpine climbs e.g. Lac Cornu and Lacs Noirs, Lac Blanc, Grand Balcon Nord, Jonction, Albert 1er, Buet, Lac de Pormenaz, Col d'Anterne.

Other hikes are possible if one is “surefooted” and properly equipped, e.g. Mont Lachat, Chalet des Pyramides, Montenvers /Signal Forbes via Les Mottets (via Caillet is not feasible), Lac des Chéserys from the Col des Montets, Grand Balcon Sud,  (note: the Flegere cable car is closed as are most of the paths leading to La Praz), Pierre à Bérard hut.

Other safe hikes have been suggested in previous updates. The Charles Bozon piste/track is closed until mid-June due to work in progress. The path leading up to the Barberine waterfalls has been cleared of fallen trees but there is still work to do there, (crossing 2 gullies).

Tour du Mont Blanc, TMB

Since the start of the week the route is being done. There is still a lot of snow, so it is suitable for experienced hikers only; one needs good boots, hiking poles and to take crampons. The way is becoming more obvious with the passage of hikers but there are still long sections where the path and waymarks are under snow, navigation skills are needed. The variants, (except for the Col de Tricot, footbridge in place) are not yet practical.

Rock Climbing in the Aiguilles Rouges

Crampons and ice axe necessary for the approaches and descents. Be aware of closed paths e.g. Charles Bozon piste and the  Flégère sector . Climbing in the sun possible at Cheserys, Montenvers and Mottets. It is still too early for Mont Oreb.

For the alpinists, the weather remains unstable (south westerlies). It is probably best to keep to routes that are not too committing and with escape options. The SW wind and cloudy nights means the freezing level will be unpredictable for the next few days. 

Tour Sector

The approach to the hut is by the moraine.  The summer path still has lots of snow and is not tracked.  With the opening of the lifts it will almost certainly be tracked at the weekend and alpinists should not have a problem, (attention: snow slides and cornices!).   However, hikers are strongly recommended not to go this way.   Snowshoes could be useful on the glaciers, depending on the night-time freezing and the time of the descent.

Aiguille du Tour is popular by the normal route.  Table Ridge and Table Gully, (15-20m section of mixed low down.) are OK   Mediocre conditions for the Chardonnet but it is still being done.  There is lots of snow on the Forbes Ridge and the upper part of the Migot Spur fairly dry with ice showing through in places.  The descent is on snow, more or less supportive.  The bergschrunds below the Adam Reilly col are OK.

No information for the rock routes e.g. Dorées traverse, Aiguille de Purscheller S ridge.

Argentière Sector

Little information for this sector as the hut and lifts are still closed.  Some parties have done the Couturier: icy narrow section, ( possible to bypass by the lower part of the Z/Washbrum route,)  and ice showing through in the upper part, (a crevasse blocks the way by the snow dome, so it is necessary to continue higher up the gully than usual.)

A party turned back from the Ginat (unstable snow and no ice for ice screw protection.) 

Flammes de Pierre

The routes are becoming “dry”.

Charpoua

The hut is due to open on the 15^th, (no gas left).  The last information is from 03/06: a lot of snow to reach the hut, tracked on foot but would have been easier with snowshoes, (no re-freezing.)  Good conditions for the Y couloir, lower bands well formed, good snow in the left branch.

Talèfre Sector

The hut approach by the Egralets is now almost free of snow, (take care on the moraine below the ladders.)  There has been little re-freezing over the last few days.  Skis no longer recommended, too much carrying for little skiing and poor snow quality at the time of descent.   Snowshoes are still perhaps useful.

The Aiguille du Moine is not yet in condition: S Ridge intégrale and E Face are dry but the normal route (descent) is dangerous. (wet, loose snow).  Likewise, for the Évêque (there will certainly be snow in the chimney). 

The Whymper on the Verte: bergschrund remains OK on the left or centre, the secondary gully is virtually dry.  Higher up the snow alternates between being very hard or very soft.

A week ago, a party turned back on the Droites normal route between the exit of the couloir and the mixed section, (unstable snow).  Nobody has tried it since.  

A party has done the Courtes normal route.  They descended by the NE face, (a lot of snow following the ridge.)

Pointe Isabelle is OK (with snowshoes!)

The ridge routes, (e.g. Moine, Jardin, Courtes traverse,) should be in condition soon, once the snow is fully transformed.

Leschaux

The hut opens on Saturday 8th June.

Latest information from the hut’s Facebook page: “still a lot of snow patches on the on the balcon path, crampons and ice axe essential. The recent good weather has dried the rock climbs.  Crampons and ice axe are needed to reach the routes.  Excellent conditions for the snow routes e.g. Aiguille de L’Eboulement, Périades, Mallet, as long a s there has been a good freeze. “

Plan de l'Aiguille

The hut can be reached by hikers via the Grand Bois (two thirds of the snow fields can be avoided by taking to the rocks). The Pré du Rocher path is not feasible.  There is still too much snow on the Grand Balcon Nord.

The Mallory-Porter and the Eugster Diagonal are being done regularly but check the freezing level.

It is still too early for the Papillons Ridge and the other rock routes in the area, (Peigne, Pilier Rouge de Blaitière).

The Aiguille de l'M and Petits Charmoz should be feasible but in mixed condition, (snowshoes useful for the approach, crampons and ice axe essential.)

Aiguille du Midi

As stated in a previous update, the Three Monts route is very awkward this year and is for excellent alpinists only, (a lot harder than the given grade PD+). An imposing serac barrier has made crossing the Maudit very difficult. One needs to go the left of the face.  4 pitches of 50m are necessary, (foresee at least 5 ice screws and some nuts). The first two pitches are very hard snow and virtually impossible to protect.  The next pitch is up a small gully of mixed, (ice screws and rock protection possible).  The last pitch is more enjoyable.  An easier line up the serac/bergschrund may have been created following a partial collapse, no further information.   

Conditions are OK for the Chéré and the Contamine-Grisolle.  There is a lot of ice on the Contamine-Mazeaud.   The Contamine-Negri has been done, no further information. (take care of the serac low down.)   It is necessary to sleep at the hut, as an early start is needed. Stonefall has been observed, a result of the bad snow conditions, (re-freezing poor to not at all).   

The Midi-Plan Ridge has been done, (there and back,) but the snow conditions were not good.

The Pointes Lachenal traverse is in good condition.

The Cosmiques ridge has become more difficult, as the area near the abseil, (where there was a large rockfall last year,) no longer has snow.  A chimney on the N side, (10m abseil) should make it possible to reach a gap where a second abseil leads back to the terrace on the usual route.

The Aig du Midi S face, Pointes Lachenal, Pyramide du Tacul E ridge, (Ottoz route,) are in good condition, (bergschrund OK).

Grands Mulets

Still good conditions here.  Good snow already from the Plan de l'Aiguille, the Jonction is OK, there is snow all the way on the N ridge and the N face skiable.  It is also possible to go and down by the Corridor route.  However, the weather is not stable for the moment.

There is now a foot track up to the hut and then on up the N ridge, giving a good, early season, alternative to the normal, (Gouter,) route for Mont Blanc.  

MB normal  route, Aiguille du Goûter

The Bellevue cable car opens on Saturday, 8th June.

Note: the 4 road up to Bionnassay from the valley will be closed all day on the 11th and 12th June, (Tuesday, Wednesday until 17h).

For a recent report on the MB normal route click  ici.

The railway track is in the process of being cleared of snow and still has sections which are very exposed, (possible to go up via the Are chalets) 

The Prefect legislation concerning the new rules for the normal route are available ici.

An artic le in Montagne Magazine on this subject is interesting.

Miage / Bionnassay Sector

The Plan Glacier and Durier huts open on Thursday 13 June.

Good conditions are expected for the Durier hut approach and the Mettrier Ridge.

Some parties have done the Aiguille de Bionnassay (either as a traverse or from the Gonella hut).  The ridge is narrow but apparently free of bare ice.  Snowshoes are still useful at the Conscrits, depending on the amount of re-freezing.

Mont Tondu is tracked, by skis only.

The N faces are still “white”, (i.e. no bare ice), but better re-freezing is needed.

The Dômes traverse (or there and back) and Aiguille de la Bérangère are in good condition.

Italian Side

Opening dates for the main huts:

- Rifugio Gonella: 7/06

- Rifugio Monzino: 14/06

- Rifugio Boccalatte: 15/06

- Rifugio Dalmazzi: 22/06

There has been little change in conditions since last week’s update for Punta Helbonner sector. The Marbrées traverse, Dent du Géant/ Rochefort Ridge, Aiguille d’Entrêves and Tour Ronde (N Face still in good condition on 05/06) remain popular. (There are foot tracks to and from the routes.  It is also possible to use skis or snowshoes).

The rock climbs on the Satellites are should soon be free of snow, (assuming they are not affected by the forecasted storms.)