MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 31/07/2019
Some information for mountain activities
For hikers, there is no longer any snow at the Col de la Glière. There are still some snow patches near the Col de Salenton on the way up the Buet.
There are also still some snow patches in the Emosson area: There is snow after crossing the dam and at the level of the Col du Vieux. However, there is a good track. Elsewhere the snow patches are small and easily bypassed. The Cheval Blanc and Veudale Gorge are OK. Near the dinosaur prints the snow bridges are to be avoided, some of which have signs.
Tour Sector
No major changes for this sector. The crevasses are beginning to open, but not yet posing a problem. The night-time freezing is OK for the moment, given the clear skies.
The Aiguille du Tour by the col supérieur du Tour and the normal route on the Tête Blanche are in condition. There is some bare ice above the Col Blanc and the ridge is dry, (Petite Fourche normal route).
No problems for the S ridge of the Aiguille Pusrtcheller.
A party did the Forbes Ridge on 30/07 but it is very (too) dry.
There is a wide bergschrund on the Trient side of the Col Blanc. The Dorées traverse is best done East to West. (The descent from the Aiguille de la Varappe is awkward in the other direction.)
Argentière Sector
Hut approach: no problems from Plan Joran and for the ladders, hand line in place.
The Flêche Rousse is no longer in condition. There no problem with the bergschrund for the Aiguille d'Argentière by the glacier du Milieu but there is an awkward pitch on rock just above. The next warm period will probably put the route finally out of condition
The Jardin ridge remains in condition. (Once the descent by the Glacier du Milieu is no longer practical, it will be necessary to abseil down the S pillar and the “Pirate” route.)
Rock routes: no problems reported.
Charpoua
The Drus traverse is in good condition. No problems on the glacier, no stone fall reported for the moment.
Rock routes: no problems reported.
Talèfre Sector
The Pointe Isabelle (bare ice on the summit slope,) and the normal route on the Courtes are feasible, given a good night-time freeze.
No recent news, (but expected soon!!) for the bergshrund on the Moine ridge on the Verte.
No problems for the rock routes, (Moine, Nonne, Évêque).
Leschaux Sector
Following the bad weather at the weekend, the N face of the Grandes Jorasses has a dusting of fresh snow. Some parties on the Walker today, (Wednesday.) The upper part looks to give mixed climbing.
The snow/glacier approach to the West face of the Petites Jorasses is OK.
Rock routes: no problems reported.
Nobody for the moment on the Périades but the Mont Mallet glacier is likely to be complicated.
Envers des Aiguilles / Requin
A fixed rope is in place at the bergschrund for the République/Grépon Mer de Glace. There is quite a lot of bare ice on the descent of the Nantillons glacier but it is still OK.
No major problems reported for the bergshrunds in this sector, (Subitlités Dulfériennes...). No recent information for the 3rd Pointe des Nantillons.
The approaches to the Dent du Requin and the Pierre à Alain are OK.
The Valley Blanche is being ascended regularly.
Aiguille du Midi Sector
There have been problems with the phone at the Cosmiques hut. You need to keep trying.
Mont Blanc by the Trois Monts: there is a potentially unstable serac directly above the track leading to the Tacul summit and another affecting the traverse beneath Mont Maudit. Serac collapse is a known objective danger for this route. It is up to each individual to decide if they accept the danger or not. It is possible to see the latest image of the N face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul on the webcam for the Aiguille du Midi. The lower bergschrund is opening up and the is no equipment in place. The leader should foresee taking two ice axes.
Since some time, the Cosmiques Ridge has become unstable. This includes the N side and therefore, is best avoided. The Pointes Lachenal traverse is very, very dry
There was a party on the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07. The approach is very (too?) dry.
Rock routes: no problems with the bergschrunds reported.
Grands Mulets
The hut closes on Thursday, 1st August. The 250m section of ice on the N ridge of the Dôme is covered with snow for the moment. There have been no recent ascents of this route.
Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter
The Grand Couloir is in “normal” condition, i.e. dry with not too much stonefall in the morning.
The latest information indicates that the Bosses ridge will soon have sections of bare ice.
Durier / Conscrits
The Durier hut approach from Plan Glacier, including the small glacier, is OK.
The Bionnassay ridge has been re-tracked, (still on snow and very narrow). There is a thin layer of fresh snow covering the ice section below the summit for the moment. The ridge remains a snow knife edge.
There is stone fall risk and ice on the descent towards the Col de la Bérangère. Therefore, the Dômes de Miage traverse is best done there and back from the Col des Dômes. The classic traverse is still feasible for parties of two experienced alpinists. The Mont Tondu is not in great condition but remains feasible, (some ice sections are not steep and others are avoidable.)
Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises
The glacier is OK, the exit on to the ridge is sketchy, (ice).
Monzino
The rock routes on the Aiguille Croux and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey seem to be the only options in this sector for the moment.
The approach to the Eccles bivouac is still OK by the glacier but the whole side of the mountain here is subject to numerous stone falls and rock collapses. All recent parties have turned back. On the Red Brouillard Pillars, only the Gabarrou-Long and the Anneaux Magiques could be accessible, for those that really want to…
Helbronner Sector
Here also everything is very dry. The traverse of the Entrêves or the Marbrées. are still possible. The approach to the Salle à Manger, (Dent du Geant,) continues to get worse, (a lot of rockfall this summer.)
A party did the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07. The approach is very, (too?) dry. The Kuffner Ridge is also not in condition.
The Jorasses traverse remains feasible, descending by the normal route, (still OK on 30/07). The abseils on the Italian side from the Canzio bivouac have been affected by a rockfall on 24/07.
No problems with the bergschrunds reported for the Satellites.