Report: 4th August 2021

A brief overview of the situation and conditions in the mountains at the beginning of August (even if it feels more like November ...!). As our Italian cousins say, "non puo piovere per sempre (it can't rain forever)"!

The Chamonix Aiguilles were well plastered with snow from 3,300m when I woke up this morning. The last few days have been rather cool and the weather windows very short. This weather is good for the high mountains and for the classic snow and mixed routes which are "just like 30 years ago": fairly good conditions when the freeze is good. Generally speaking, conditions have changed little.

Report 1 August 2021

1st of August ….  already  autumn ??

15-20 cm of new snow at the  Cosmiques hut (3600m)  with the snow/rain limit around 3000m. There is probably  a lot more snow higher up. Those breaking trail risk having to plough through deep snow.  

Care needed on certain routes such as the Trois Monts, (and, therefore, the descent from the Kuffner and  Aiguilles du Diable).

The rocks are either snow plastered or wet.  They should start drying out with the return of the sun on Tuesday.

On Wednesday there will be a more detailed  bulletin.  Until then, Chamoniarde is looking  forward to receiving  information of your experiences.  

(Translator’s note: after six years of providing English  translations of the mountain condition, a life change means this is my last one.  So it is goodbye from me and thank you for all the fish.)

Report 23rd July 2021

 MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 23/07/2021

A quick update following a week of good weather.

A thank you to all those who sent in their reports to the OHM.  It is much appreciated and do not hesitate  to continue sending them either directly by telephone, (the same number as that used for asking for info, 04 50 53 22 08 ), by email or directly in to the route book.

It has taken some time for all the snow that fell the previous week to settle and stabilise. The freezing has not always been ideal but better these last few days, (need wait and see what happens over the next days.) 

These conditions have generally allowed for numerous mixed routes to be done, which is not bad for the second half of July !   Also the rock routes are being climbed, (the bergschrunds are holding up well)  and even some major routes (Grand Courses), though for some others it is still too early, (or too late!)

Tour Sector

Some snow remains below the hut but not a problem for hikers.

There is a  good track for the Aiguille du Tour (via the Col du Tour or Col Supérieur du Tour),  the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche. The Table Ridge continues to be popular.  

The Forbes Ridge and the Migot Spur were tracked at the start of the week, after the snow settled.  The descent is OK.

Argentière Sector

There have been a lot of parties on the Aiguille d'Argentière  either by the Glacier du Milieu (starting to soften in the narrows, belays with slings possible,) the  Flèche Rousse ridge or the Jardin ridge.

Also, a lot of rock climbing in this sector.

It is over, (never really started,) for Tournier Spur on the Droites and probably for the Charlet-Straton.

A party (courageous, given the approach without the cable car) did the Grands Montets Ridge in good conditions, despite the recent snow, (it took more than 1h to get around the Pointe Ségogne). They bivvied before the snow dome and descended by the Moine ridge, (lots of snow.)

Charpoua Sector

A lot of activity on the Drus: the N face (Pierre-Alain), the W face (American Direct), the S face (Bastien - Contamine, still wet) and on the traverse (approach and descent low down on the glacier, which is in perfect condition.  Crampons used on the triangular snowfield and on the traverse between the Petit and Grand Dru, some ice.)

Feels like "canyoning" on the abseil descent, “dry treated” ropes recommended.

Rock climbing on the Flammes de Pierre, (count on two days after the rain for it to be dry and on the other side, (Evêque – Moine buttresses etc).

Couvercle Sector

The Moine is popular (normal route - S ridge- Contamine).

It is over for the Whymper. There is still a lot of snow on the Moine ridge but remains feasible for good alpinists.  The Jardin ridge is  just OK but probably not for long. 

The normal routes on the Droites and Courtes are OK, if there is a good freeze.  

Leschaux Sector

The Mer de Glace balcon paths are OK.

The rock climbs behind the hut are in condition.  The W face of the Petites Jorasses and the Aiguille de Leschaux are dry.  It is still too early for the Walker Spur, (snow).

The Périades Glacier is OK, if there is a good freeze.  Need to be good at reading the terrain.

Envers des Aiguilles Sector

The Tour Rouge bivouac hut is in place, (info click here).  A new way to reach it, (and other routes) has been equipped (see photo).

The Grepon-Mer de Glace and the République normal route are being climbed.  The snow bridge at the bergschrund is holding up but awkward if there is not a freeze

There has been nobody recently on the Ryan.

Otherwise, nothing special to report; the bergschrunds and crevasses are not causing problems for access to the rock routes.

Requin Sector

The lower part of the ladders has been re-equipped.  There is still a lot of snow on the glaciers.

As was already talked about last year, it is now possible to reach the Envers hut from the Requin high up, by going past the Pierre-Alain (snow band) then up the Envers de Blaitère glacier before descending to the Envers hut. Only for alpinists.

The way up the Valley Blanche is tracked. The descent from the Aiguille du Plan is by the  Envers du Plan glacier.

Rock climbing on the  Dent du Requin (Chapeau à Corne ridge, Renaudie, Paraudie) and on the Pierre Alain (Congo Star).

Helbronner Sector

The Rochefort Ridge and the Dent du Géant are in good condition. There is a good track in the approach gully and the spur is dry to reach the Salle à Manger.

A few days ago, a party traversed the Jorasses  but it is better to wait a bit.  The rocks on the Pointe Young above the Canzio bivouac are still verglaced. (Yesterday another party escaped by abseilling towards the Planpincieux glacier.)  Also, there is still a lot of snow on the rest of the ridge (Pointe Walker etc). The descent by the normal route is OK.  

It is OK for the SE ridge of the Tour Ronde, the traverses of Marbrées and Aiguille d'Entrèves (take care, the last part on the E side is unstable).

Quite a few parties on the Kuffner and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse with good conditions, if it freezes.  The Brenva Spur looks to be OK but not tracked.

The bergschrunds for the satellites are not causing problems.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

Midi -Plan ridge is OK, given a good freeze.   The Col du Plan  bergschrund is opening up. Even starting from the first lift, parties have turned back at the Rognon du Plan (the slopes on the Valley Blanche side heat up quickly.)  

Traverse of the Valley Blanche, Pointe Lachenal and Cosmiques ridge are popular.  

Good conditions,  (if frozen,) for the Triangle du Tacul (notably the Chéré and Contamine-Grisolle).  The bergschrunds are appearing but not yet a problem, the descent from the end of the routes to the normal route of the Tacul is OK, (no ice.)

The Trois Monts is in good conditions overall. The track goes very close to the serac on the lower part of the N face of Mont Maudit, though not exceptional, have made several parties nervous.  There are a few metres of ice below the Col du Mont Maudit.

There are no problems to report for the rock climbs, the bergschrunds remain OK.  There have been several rescues, (technically too difficult or losing the way) over recent years from the upper part of the Gervasutti Pillar, (which has changed a lot recently).  Heve a good reserve in technical ability and timing. 

Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

The Frendo is OK if it freezes but maybe not for long, as the upper part is deteriorating.

Rock climbing on the Peigne : Papillons Ridge, Minettes Spur, Normal route, SW ridge and the Lepiney crack, (crampons not necessary, ice axe for confidence on the lower snowfield), on the Gendarme Rouge (crampons or ice axe useful for the snow field,) and the Peigne slabs (crampons or ice axe useful).

Grutter Ridge and the Peigne-Pélerins-Deux Aigles traverse with return by the Midi-Plan or the Envers du Plan glacier are popular. Note, there has been a landslip in the area near the abseil to reach the amphitheatre of the Deux Aigles. It is necessary to descend from higher up the ridge: 2 abseils (10+25m) and 25m of down climbing. 

Rock climbing also at the Blaitière (Pillar Rouge, NW ridge), the Aiguille de l'M (normal route, NE ridge, Couzy,  Ménégaux) and the Petits Charmoz (traverse, crampons needed).

The Charmoz-Grépon is in good condition, (no info for the Cordier Pillar).  The Nantillons glacier is still relatively OK.  

Grands Mulets

Virtually nobody in this sector despite the conditions being not bad for the time of year.  The hut warden has returned to the valley. He will go back up if requested, until the official closing on 31st July.

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The section between the Tête Rousse and the Goûter hut is becoming dry.  A falling rock has ripped out the cable in the Grand couloir.  Good conditions above

Miage-Bionnassay Sector

The lower part of Mont Tondu is also becoming dry.

Good conditions for the Dômes de Miage traverse. There is still a lot of snow here and this makes the descent, (or ascent,) of the Aiguille de la Bérangère easier.

Some ice is appearing on the climb up to the Aiguille de Trè-la-Tète, when doing the traverse.

The Mettrier ridge integral was tracked on 18/07 in good conditions.

Parties have been doing the Tricot ridge. The traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay is in excellent condition.

Mont Blanc via the Gonella

Ancora tutto bene!  (Still good)

For the moment conditions are good for the Tournette Spur, (info click here).

Monzino Sector

The approach to the Eccles is OK.

Parties on the Brouillard and Innominata ridges (if frozen).

Climbing on the Pillar Rouge (Bonatti- Anneaux Magiques) and the Freney Pillar (approach: 40m of down climbing then a 50m abseil.)

Some parties on the Aiguille Blanche by the Schneider ledges and on the Peuterey integral, (good conditions, no further information.)

As for rock climbing, all are in condition, except for the Ratti-Vitale (Aiguille Noire) which is still wet.

Report 16 July 2021

Finally, the storms are over and “here comes the sun” (George Harrison)

However, caution will be needed over the next few days because all that precipitation has affected the conditions.  There has been a significant amount of snow above 3000m depending on the sector, (between 40 and 80 cm at the Cosmiques hut and 20 cm the Helbronner)  and many slopes throughout the range are heavily loaded.  Spontaneous avalanches are already happening .  With the rise in temperature, one needs to be very careful in the choice of snow route.  

The rain-snow limit fluctuated between 2500m and 3000m.

With the return of the sun and the rise of the thermometer, the rock routes exposed to the sun will dry quickly and soon return to the conditions described in the last update.  

The  Chamonix Aiguilles of Chamonix were well covered in snow.

The  Envers d’ Aiguilles sector also got some snow. However, climbing behind the hut was already feasible on Friday afternoon.  Likewise, for the Leschaux hut sector. The granite behind the Argentière hut should dry quickly.

Patience is needed for the big routes (Grandes Courses,)  which were plastered.

The Aiguilles Rouges was spared the snow, (just got soaked.)

Report 14th July 2021

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 14/07/2021

Some activity in the high mountain was possible in the brief weather window last weekend. The conditions in this report are, therefore, from that weekend. The Chamoniarde will make a small update on Friday about the new snow,  (10 cm at the  Argentière hut Wednesday morning, 30 cm at the Cosmiques. knowing that it rained before turning to snow).  In exchange. please send information on conditions from your activities this coming weekend to Chamoniarde =)

Despite the snowfall, the rock dries quickly, especially on those routes facing the sun and the mixed routes have received a slight covering in snow.

The forecast for the week is for more bad weather with snowfall in the high mountains.  The sun should return at the weekend and during the week following, (hopefully an anticyclone.) This will mean again a risk of avalanches and snow slides in the first few days. (This avalanche on the Tacul normal route should act as a warning.)

The risk of storms in the range is high this year and needs to be taken into account when choosing a route..

A few days of good weather, (clear nights, good freezing, not too much wind, limited storm risk)  should finally get the season for doing the big routes started. 

Tour Sector

The bergschrund on the Aiguille du Tour normal route is opening up, but not yet a problem.   The Col Supérieur du Tour still has plenty of snow.  The bergshrund to reach the Table ridge is easy to cross.

No comments for the normal routes on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche.

Some activity on the Chardonnet (Forbes Ridge, Migot Spur,) thanks to a better freezing on Saturday and Sunday. A little reminder following several rescue operations by the PGHM from this summit :

-The Forbes ridge, though graded AD, can seem (too) long for a party at just that level and not moving together, (short roping).

- On the descent : a first party took the wrong way in bad weather and went too far right, (looking down) and ended up descending the lower part of the Bettembourg Gully. (They made it down, but it was far from ideal.). With the track in place other parties then followed this way. The normal descent is well to the left.

Argentière Sector

The approach to the hut is reasonably OK.  Care is needed on a traverse of the slabs at the foot of the ladders, (between two fixed ropes,) and on a snow patch to re-join the glacier, (also a rope in place.)

The Aiguille d'Argentière has been climbed: Whymper, Glacier du Milieu, Flèche Rousse Ridge, (best to wait a few days after the snowfall so that there is not too much in the upper part.)

Col du Tour Noir is OK.

There is too much snow for the moment on the Jardin Ridge.

Once it dries , the rock is good, crampons needed for the approaches.

Mer de Glace Right Bank : Charpoua / Couvercle/ Leschaux Sectors

As a reminder and even though it is still indicated on the IGN maps, the old approach path, (ladders removed) under the Flammes de Pierres  and the part along the Mer de Glace balcon below the Charpoua glacier no longer exists. Also, the Egralets ladders are no longer maintained and some of the fixings are missing at the level of the ledges, which can cause problems, especially for hikers.  (The moraine is not too bad, though it requires concentration.)  Therefore, it is better to use the new ladders directly below the Aiguille du Moine to reach this sector.  There are still some snow patches on the traverse to the Leschaux hut.

There is no longer any snow on the approach to Charpoua hut. The recent snowfall means patience needed before the Drus traverse will be in condition. The rock on the Flammes de Pierre dries quickly, slightly slower for the Evêque, (Contamine & Ciao Marco).

The Aiguille du Moine is being climbed, (Contamine, S ridge, normal route.)

Still problems with the Whymper Couloir, (bergschrund), which is only feasible in descent and early in the day.  Parties also turned back on the S Couloir of the Armand Charlet col (the upper part very dry).  No news for the Moine ridge,  (likely to have a lot of snow,) or for the Jardin ridge.

Given a good freeze, the normal route on the Droites should be OK, (the latest news is that the bergschrund on the access couloir still passable.)  Likewise, for the Courtes, (including the traverse.)   The Pointe Isabelle looks to be complicated.

In the Leschaux sector, the  N face of the Jorasses remains plastered, (begging the questions if there will be a window for the Walker or what the mixed route conditions will be in autumn.) In the meantime, climbing is possible on the routes above the hut. Patience needed for the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses.  The Périades and Aiguille de l'Eboulement should be OK, if it freezes.

Mer de Glace Left bank : Envers des Aiguilles Requin Sector

There is still snow on the approach to the hut, (a rope is useful on the glacier before the ladders leading to the Requin).

Once the rock dries, climbing will be possible on the lower Envers sectors,  ( Rouge/Verte towers, Pointe des Nantillons). 

The République/ Grepon-Mer de Glace bergschrund goes either by a snow bridge in the middle or on the slabs to the right, (move of IV.)   There is some snow in places on the ledges.  The descent by the Nantillons glacier is in good condition for the moment.

The Dent du Requin is being climbed : Chapeau à Corne ridge, Renaudie, (bergschrund OK, a section higher up is harder than given in the guidebook due to a rockfall).

Helbronner Sector

Despite the unstable weather, the classics in this area remain feasible :  Marbrées and Aiguilles d'Entrêves traverses, SE ridge of the Tour Ronde.

Though the Dent du Geant is still being done, be careful not to be caught out by the bad weather and the winter conditions, (verglas, snow.)  There is lots of snow on the approach to the Salle à Manger.

There have been several parties doing the  Rochefort Arete, said to be in good condition. Like the other “Grandes Courses”, patience is needed for the Jorasses traverse.  

Last weekend the Kuffner ridge was popular using the direct approach, (bergschrund OK, conditions good on the ridge.) The same was true for the Aiguilles du Diable traverse (lots of snow on the rocks, frequent use of crampons.) Think about the snow conditions on the descent, (Mont Maudit + Tacul).

In general, the bergschrunds for the rock climbs are OK. The Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul and Pointe Adolphe Rey were being climbed.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

It is OK for the traverse of the Valley Blanche, Cosmiques ridge and Pointes  Lachenal traverse (30m abseil, keep well to the right, looking down, when descending from the last point to keep away from the seracs.)  

The Midi-Plan ridge has been done, (no further info but looks OK).

Good conditions on the Triangle du Tacul thanks to the recent snowfall, especially for the Contamine Negri and the Contamine Grisolle  (here again take care of the snow conditions for the descent!)  The Chéré gully is also finally feasible again!

Condition good on the Trois Monts, if the snow is OK.

The S faces are popular: (Aiguille du Midi, Cosmiques Spur, Pointes Lachenal). A party turned back from the Gervasutti Pillar, (no further info, bergschrund?)

Plan de l'Aiguille Sector

Frendo Spur retracked. It looks like there is some snow on the rocks  and good conditions for the exit.

The  Papillons ridge, the Peigne (crampons no longer necessary for the normal route,) and the Grutter (crampons,) are popular.

There is still a good snowfield to reach the Blaitière Red Pillar.

Charmoz-Grepon:  glacier and bergschrund OK. A little bit of snow & verglas to reach Grand Charmoz summit, notably on the ledges.  Snow in the Charmoz-Grepon couloir, abseils. There is still snow and verglas on some sections to the N summit of the Grepon, (goes with aid), dry after that.   Descent by the col des Nantillons.

The Cordier Pillar has also been done.

Crampons remain useful for the Aiguille de l'M and the Petits Charmoz traverse.

Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets

Tracks were again seen last weekend on the plateaux, looked not too bad!  On the other hand, there is a lot of carrying, (walking on the glacier.) The N ridge of the Dôme is OK. This route is a good option for those wanting a “wilder” way to climb Mont Blanc on foot !

Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

No Comments

Dômes de Miage / Bionnassay sector

The Conscrits hut is now approached by the summer path and footbridge.

Ideal conditions for the  Dômes  traverse, (be aware of the avalanche risk  at the Col de la Bérangère) and the Aiguille de Bionnassay (the rock section can be done with crampons).

Mont Blanc par Gonella

Buone condizioni !!!  (In condition)

Monzino Sector

The rock routes on the Aiguille Croux remain popular.

Likewise  for Punta Innominata (abseils and return by the glacier OK).

A party turned back after 2 pitches on the Ratti-Vitali (Aiguille Noire de Peuterey) : the rock was still wet due to melting snow.

Aiguille Blanche and Grand Pilier d'Angle are tracked (via Col de l'Innominata - Schneider ledges- Blanche - Col de Peuterey) but without exiting by the Peuterey ridge (return by the Col Eccles).

There are no particular problems on the way up the glacier to the Eccles bivouac.  From the Monzino hut it is possible to reach the Red Pillar of Brouillard, (dries quickly) directly, without going to the Eccles.   

The Innominata ridge was done about two weeks ago in good conditions.  No info for the Brouillard ridge.  At least 2 days of good weather is needed for the snow to settle and freeze for this sector to come into condition.    

Hiking

The snow continues to melt but is still there in places.

Crampons remain useful for :

- The TMB variants (Col des Fours and d'Arpette)

- Sector lacs Noirs / Col de la Glière

- Index traverse - lac Blanc (still two dangerous snowfields)

- The Tour des Aiguilles Rouges (the Bérard side of the Col de Salenton is well tracked and marked with poles.

- Mont Buet

- Col de la Terrasse

The Tricot footbridge (TMB variant) is closed until further notice -   council order  

It is now forbidden to bivouac on the Chailloux mountain (South side of the Aiguillette des Posettes). As a reminder, it is also forbidden to bivouac near the lac Blanc and at the Blaitière alpage.