La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 20 July 2022
Conditions are changing fast and not in a good way.
Some news to replace and clarify our last update:
  • Aiguilles Dorées traverse : all the parties turned back yesterday because of rock falls (see cahier de course on the La Chamoniarde website).
  • Rock falls on the Col Supérieur du Tour: it is once again better to go via the Col du Tour.
  • Tête Blanche is icy but it is not very steep. Same for the Petite Fourche but you can go up by the rocky ridge.
  • Teams on the Grands-Montets ridge on the Verte, the calotte at the top is tracked but dont hang around.
  • Rock falls reported on the American Direct.
  • “Tormented" glacial approach for the Walker spur. Some rock falls on the route. Almost everything is done in rock shoes. Descent not easy.
  • Rock falls on the access to the salle à manger (Dent du Géant, Arêtes de Rochefort): the local guide companies are not doing these routes anymore
  • Access to the S face routes of the Pointes Lachenal: the rimayes are complicated, abseiling is better. Good crampons (steel) are necessary for the ascent/descent of the Lachenal (all ice).
  • Beware of the Aiguille du Midi rimaye which is opening up more and more
  • A recent serac fall on the Tacul which hasn't worsened conditions on the route. Take care at the (many) rimayes on the route. Small fixed rope in place to facilitate the (strenuous) crossing of the rimaye under the col du Mont Maudit. The traverse to the col is not equipped, you need to be good on your feet (crampons).
  • Mont Blanc by the Goûter: the bad conditions only concern the part between Tête Rousse and the Goûter. Hikers who wish to do so can climb to Tête Rousse!
  • Col de la Bérangère to be avoided absolutely, in any direction: "constant rock falls".
  • Dômes de Miage and back, is being done every day, "a few" crevasses but still ok, more and more ice on the ridge.
A bit further away from us:
  • The guides in Cervinia no longer sell the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Lion ridge.
  • The guides in Zermatt no longer sell the ascent of the Pollux because of the state of the glacier.
  • The guides in Grindelwald no longer sell the normal route of the Jungfrau.
Finally, following numerous calls from our hiker friends, rest assured that rock falls or other hanging glaciers do not "threaten" the Tour du Mont Blanc nor the classic trails of the valley!

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.