La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 7th July 2022


At last, a pretty normal week, with stable weather, reasonable temperatures and a cool breeze. Let's take a look at the situation, because it's time to get out there. 



It feels more like the end of the season in this area, it's all dry and the glacier is starting to open up. 

The Col Supérieur du Tour is very dry, there have been a few rock falls, the Col du Tour is better. 

The Col du Midi des Grands is very dry, it is a pile of sandy stones. 

The Forbes and the Migot are no longer advisable, there is ice and the crevasses are very open. The sector is very serious. 

Purtscheller, Petite Fourche and normal route (VN) on Tête Blanche are still OK. 


Argentière glacier 

Take care not to get lost on the way up to the refuge: after the viewpoint (point de vue), you must stay on the left bank (winter itinerary) and take the ladders. Regular improvement of the path is planned (Thursdays normally). The CNRS has put markers at the beginning of the glacier for a scientific study: dont follow them! 

The Flèche Rousse is no longer possible, when there is no refreeze there is rubble at the start, ice under sand on the descent, many boulders on the whole route, summit ridge snowy but ice isnt really far away on the upper part of the descent before the narrows. 

The glacier du milieu can still be regarded as a descent route (but not up and down). Above the narrows, the slope is hard snow and then ice, you have to go to the right following rock falls. At the bottom of the glacier, you have to be careful with a large snow bridge. 

The conditions on the arete du Jardin (be careful on the descent) and on the col du Tour Noir are ok, as well as everything that is rocky (arete du Rabouin etc). Some teams are heading to the Améthystes traverse, but without more information. 

The Tournier spur is done for, it's too dry, even dangerous! 



The rock routes are in good condition. Evêque/Contreforts du Moine are possible. The American direct is being done. 

For the Drus traverse, you can get across the glacier up high, but it won't last long. 


Talèfre Basin 

All is good on the Moine, the Arête du Moine, as well as for the Nonne-Evêque, the rimayes are all fine. Crampons are still very useful to get up to the Moine. 

It's over for the Whymper, too dry! The rimaye is still crossable on the right bank on the way down, if there is a good re-freeze. 

For the Arête du Jardin, it’s getting tricky, the rimaye is 3m across, and after that it's all dry, we can't advise it any more... 

The oblique snow couloir on the Droites doesn't go anymore and above is quite dry, as with the Courtes we have no feedback. 



The rock routes around the refuge are fine. 

Good conditions on the Petites Jorasses. 

It's over for the Eboulement and for the climb up to Les Périades! 

The Grand Jorasses season is almost here, in any case everything seems to be in place from Friday! 


Envers des Aiguilles 

The descent of the Nantillons glacier (icy) is done by the Charlet/Payot (CP) abseils, it is not advised to go via the col. After the abseils, there are 2 crevasses to cross, then you have the abs down the rognon. 

The rimaye for the République is still passable on the far right. 

The rest of the rimayes are fine.  

There are workers at the Tour Rouge hut repairing fixed gear so less space at the hut! 



“Top condis” on the Dent du Requin, the climbers are delighted. 

Access to the hut is still ok: either by the left bank with some zigzags in the middle of the crevasses, or by the right bank next to the moraine. 

The climb to the Torino and the descent from the col du plan (take the right bank at the Dent du Requin) is still possible! 



Access to the Dent du Géant is very dry, you have to be careful with rock falls, as it is very busy.  

Marbrées and Entrèves are still ok but very crowded! 

The Tour Ronde is being done by the Freshfield arête from the start. The first 25m don't look too good from the bottom, but when you are climbing it's not too bad.  

Conditions on the Rochefort arête are still good. 

The traverse of the Grandes Jorasses and the normal route are possible and have been done. 

The satellites of the Tacul are OK, the rimayes go without problems. 

The access couloir to the Diable ridge is dry, but is being done. 


Aiguille du Midi 

The Midi Plan traverse is drying out and starting to get icy. 

Pointes Lachenal: the slopes are getting icy and the 2nd section is dry and unstable. 

The 3 Monts, conditions are pretty good, there is a bit of ice on the Maudit but not too much of a bother. 

The vallée blanche track goes low down, but is starting to open up. 

On the triangle du Tacul, the Chéré and the Grisolle are ok, the Mazeaud also goes but is thinner. 

Lots of people on the Rebuffat, Cosmiques arête and Lolo (Laurence) arête (dry). 


Plan de l'Aiguille 

Climbing is in full swing!  

We have already announced the end of the Frendo, we remind you, the exit is in ice! 

The Cordier pillar and the Charmoz-Grepon are possible if you use the Nantillons abseils, but there are still 2 crevasses to cross! 

The traverse of the Chamonix Aiguilles seems ok. 


Grands Mulets 

There is no more activity in the area, it takes a long time to reach the refuge (which will close soon), the route is complicated to find, and this approach is done too late in the day.  


Mont Blanc by the Goûter 

The hut has a telephone problem: you have to call Tête Rousse, and the guardian will liase with the Goûter. 

The grand couloir is very dry, get onto it as early as possible. 

The crevasse on the Bosses ridge is currently passable on the Italian side. 



Good conditions for the Dômes traverse, the ridge is snow and the track is good. The glacier is starting to open up but the approach remains OK. Ice is starting to appear on the descent to the col de la Berangère but it is still not a problem. 

The ascent to both the Bérangère and Mont Tondu are fine despite some not so steep ice passages. 

The Bionnassay ridge is still in good condition, it is snowy and not yet too narrow. 



The hut will close on July 16th or 17th. 

Pretty good conditions on the voie du Pape despite a very open glacier. 

For the Tournette, it's been a while since it was done.  There is ice above the Quintino Sella. 



Access to the Eccles is very crevassed, it takes more time to get there and it's tricky. For info, only the upper bivouac is usable, go into the Monzino and make yourself known to avoid climbing up there for nothing. 

Conditions on the Innominata are not great but it's ok. There is underlying ice on several parts of the route, otherwise the rock is dry and the narrow snow ridges are OK. 

No info on the Brouillard integral, but it it looks possible from below. 

The red pillar is dry but there is a big crevasse to cross (be careful!) 

The Freney glacier is terrible! (Beware of rock falls on the Schneider ledges). It was crossed between the Innominata col and the Ratti route (which has been done) via a line lower than normal. 

The East ridge of the Aiguille Noire has been recently re-equipped. 

No news from the Freney pillar. 

Some teams on the Peuterey Integral, but no more information. 

Crampons and ice axes are now not needed for the Aiguille Croux. 


In short: 

For walking, you no longer need specific equipment to access the Buet, Salenton, Cornu, Glière. 

The same goes for the climbing approaches. 

We are told of an unstable boulder on the first belay of “Douche Écossaise” on the Tête de Lugon. 


Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.