The snow that fell a few days ago has mostly melted, but could still cause problems in a few places at altitude. Reports from the recent outings indicate generally good conditions in the massive.
- Albert 1er : The gullies on the Chardonnet are dry. The Forbes ridge is being done regularly but not so for the Migot where the bergschrund is difficult.
The bergschrund on the Aiguille du Tour goes on the right, the Table Gully has a dry section in the middle and is not to be recommended. The Table ridge is in good condition, likewise the Tête Blanche et Petite Fourche.
- Argentière : Very good conditions for the Glacier du Milieu, the Flèche Rousse ridge, the Jardin ridge, the Col du Tour Noir and for the descent from Grands Montets.
The Charlet Straton and the Col d’Argentière have been climbed, as well as the traverse of the Tour Noir, descending by south pillar with two abseils of 50m and one of 30m.
The N faces are out of condition, having an air “cannyoning” about them
- La Charpoua : The Drus traverse was done in guidebook time on 18th July
Routes on the Flammes de Pierre are being done but with the heat the Sans Nom is no longer in condition.
- Le Couvercle : The rock climbs are back in condition and proving popular. The normal routes on the Droites to the Nonne-Evêque, the Pointe Isabelle and the Moine have been done. The traversée of the Courtes was done on 18/07 in very good conditions.
- Leschaux : 2 parties did the Anouk and the Contamine on the Petites Jorasses. The Comte route on the Aiguille Pierre Joseph has also been done.
The Aiguille de l’Eboulement was climbed on 16/7 in good conditions.
The Walker is drying well and should be in condition soon.
- Envers des Aiguilles : Climbers are active on the Tour Rouge, Tour Verte and the Pointes des Nantillons. Bienvenue au Georges V, Amazonia et les Fleurs du Mal have been done recently. There were also parties on the Mer de Glace face of the Grepon and the Aiguille de la République on 18/7. The Ryan does not look like it will be in condition for several days.
- Le Requin : The rock routes behind the hut are in condition. Parties are going up the Vallee Blanche without major problems.
- Torino : A very popular sector for both rock and snow/mixed routes. Generally good condition which might change as the temperatures rise.
The approach to the Kuffner remains by the taking the direct gully and not via the Fourche The Aiguilles du Diable traverse is also being done; there is little snow remaining.
- Les Cosmiques : The rock routes on the S face of the Aiguille du Midi and the Pointes Lachenal are being climbed. The Contamine Mazeaud, Negri et Grisolle and the Chéré have been popular these last few days, as well as the Cosmiques Ridge and the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal.
For the Midi-Plan it is best to sleep at the hut to take advantage of the freezing conditions, (if indeed it does freeze,) during the night. The 3 Monts route up Mont Blanc is not presenting any problems, just some ice at the Col du Mont Maudit.
- Les Grands Mulets :Parties foreseen to do Mont Blanc from here on 19/7. The crossing of the Jonction is best by the lowest track.
- Plan Glacier / Durier : There is snow on the last 100m vertical on the approach to the Durier hut, crampons probably essential. Some parties left for the Bionnassay ridge on 18/7, no further information.
- Les Conscrits : The Dômes de Miage and Mont Tondu are in good condition. Parties also have done the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête and the Lex Blanche. (Some ice low down, ice screws useful.) The approach to the hut via the glacier has become complicated but remains possible by the true right bank for the moment. There are a couple of snow patches remaining on the approach via the footbridge which might need crampons early in the morning.
- Boccalate : There is a warden now at the hut and conditions for the normal route up the Grande Jorasses are good.
- Monzino : The Aiguille Croux, the Pointe Innominata and the Innominata Ridge are being climbed. Parties have also been seen on the Peuterey ridge heading for Mont Blanc.
- Gonella : The normal route up Mont Blanc from the Italian side is being done regularly, without any bad feedback.
The weather forecast is for an important rise in temperatures over the next few days, beware of stonefall later in the day!
Conditions in the Aiguilles Rouges have improved, but crampons may still be necessary in certain areas.
There is still a lot of snow on the approaches to the Cornu lake and the Noir lakes and so these walks are not yet to be recommended. Care is also needed on the descent from the Brevent Col on the Anterne side and from the Col du Salenton on the Berard side, crampons useful early in the morning. There is also still snow on the Buet, so you need to be properly equipped, (crampons and ice axe.)
The Col de la Terrasse from Loriaz is doable but there is still snow in the last section. The Veudale Gorges are still snowed over as are also the dinosaur tracks.
Concerning the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is snow at the Col du Bonhomme, care needed. The rest of the route is without any special problems, though be careful when crossing the mountain streams when in spate.