La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 23 August 2024.

 

 

No changes since the 16/08 update.

 

 

No major changes here either, the season for snow routes is over. However, there are some great climbs on 5-star rock to be had! 

 

 

The approach and climbing conditions remain good in all sectors. Petites and Grandes Jorasses are still being climbed. It's starting to get complicated to make water if you choose the bivouac option on the Cassin route. Also good conditions at the Aiguille de Leschaux and for the climbing routes around the refuge.

 

 

That's it for snow routes, even for Pointe Isabelle where a large rimaye blocks access. 

 

Activity is now concentrated on the Moine, Nonne and Evêque.

 

The rimaye on the Contamine on the Moine has opened up. You have to climb down inside before getting back on the rock. 

 

 

The Dru is no longer accessible by the glacier. The rest of the routes are fine. The Contamine on the Evêque rimaye has opened up but is still passable. The condition of the fixed ropes has deteriorated. 

 

The refuge is due to close on 1 September, but it remains to be seen whether this date will be brought forward depending on the weather conditions. Don't forget to call the refuge! 

 

 

Grépon - Mer de Glace: ok on the Envers Des Aiguilles side. However, it is no longer possible to avoid the ice on the Nantillons glacier, so abseiling on abalakovs is necessary in the upper part. 

 

The other sectors are all accessible!

 

 

Access to the refuge is still via the left bank initially. At the junction of the Leschaux glacier and the Tacul, go into the middle and then branch off perpendicularly opposite the ladders. Congo Star and Renaudie are still passable. For the latter, you'll need to take the 15 abseils. 

 

The refuge is closing this Sunday (25/08). Then 10 euros/night for the winter room. 

 

 

End of summer activity in the sector!

 

Still a few teams on the Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses traverse. The descent via the normal route is still relatively easy. Two passages require a little attention: under the Whymper rocks to get a foothold on the glacier and then on the Planpincieux glacier under the Reposoir rock (crevasses). A report on the route from 22/08 can be found here.

 

The Rochefort arête is dry (a little ice, unstable rock) which makes it more technical (you have to watch where you put your feet) than at the beginning of the season when conditions are optimal. We'd like to take this opportunity to remind you that the ratings for a route refer to optimum conditions!

 

Dent du Géant still crowded: at the risk of repeating ourselves, the access to the Salle à Manger is dry (which is not ideal) and you absolutely must stay on the right route.

 

The crossing of the Aiguilles d'Entrêves is crowded, beware of the crevasses on the approach before the Col d'Entrêves. For the Marbrées, always opt for the full traverse.

 

No news from the Arête du Diable.

 

There's climbing on the satellites. The rimayes are still going well (Grand Capucin, Pyramide du Tacul, etc.)

 

The traverse of the Vallée Blanche is still going well. Don't hesitate to take a low track and retrace your steps as the snow bridges are changing at the end of the season.

 

 

Mixed opinions on the 3 Monts: many dubious bridges in the upper part of the Tacul for some, no proplem for others. 

 

As the rimaye on Maudit has grown, it seems that the fixed rope is getting a bit short. There are currently 2 tracks in the lower section: one using the fixed rope and a second pulling right into the steep seracs. 

 

The upper part is still snow. 

 

The traverse to Pointe Lachenal looks like it is still practicable, although you will have to negotiate the rimaye and a section of ice to reach the first Pointe. 

 

 

The conditions on this route are typical of the end of the season.

 

The couloir is very dry and you need to cross it at the right time (as a reminder, the best time according to scientific studies is between 6am and 11am, which doesn't mean there aren't rockfalls).

 

The north-facing section of the Bosses Arête is out of the question. You have to go via the Mauvaise Arête (underlying ice, good steps).

 

 

Generally good conditions on this traverse: blue ice on the Col des Dômes, good track to the Bionnassay making progress easier, a few crevasses visible at the Piton des Italiens. Be careful if you descend via the Goûter couloir - timing is everything! 

 

 

Aiguille Croux: All good!

 

The Punta Innominata can be done there and back via the arête (rather than the descent via the Glacier du Brouillard).

 

That's it for the Ratti-Vitali.

Access to the Eccles is becoming increasingly complicated = not many people.

 

The Brouillard integrale can still be done by bivouacking at the Col Emile Rey to start the tricky pitches when its cool.

 

 

The Dômes out-and-back route is still passable, but for the traverse there's ice at the Col de la Bérangère. A report on our route notebook for the traverse on 20/08 can be found here.  

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.