La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 24 August 2022


After the little bit of snow last weekend which was a sight for sore eyes, the good weather has returned to our mountains.

Conditions in the high mountains have not improved and remain the same. The recent snow is hanging on at high altitude on northern aspects (above 3,800 m). Even if the isotherm remains quite high, the nights are long and cool with a good refreeze.

Activity up there remains very limited, with a fairly low number of people in the upper massif.

Snow and mixed routes (with a few exceptions: Tête Blanche/Petite Fourche, Mont Blanc du Tacul, Col des Dômes there and back, Mont Blanc by the Trois Monts for very experienced climbers) are not on the agenda, nor are the “grandes voies”. 

The only thing left is rock climbing, avoiding complex glacier approaches (Orny/Dorées, Argentière, Couvercle, Leschaux, Envers des Aiguilles/Requin, Aiguille du Midi, Plan de l'Aiguille, Aigilles Rouges, Monzino, Dalmazzi sectors).


Given the conditions, it’s best to contact La Chamoniarde directly to discuss the feasibility of your projects rather than writing a detailed newsletter.

Do not hesitate to send them your feedback!


Some brief news:

  • Planpraz and Flégère lifts have been extended until 18 September inclusive.
  • The Charpoua refuge is closing tomorrow, Thursday 25 August. Work will be undertaken and there will be no refuge or winter room until next summer.
  • The path up to Charamillon from Le Tour is completely closed, you have to go via the Col des Posettes
  • Many people go wrong in the ascent to the Albert 1er hut by the moraine route by climbing too high in the couloir. As a reminder, this route is neither marked nor maintained and is reserved for very experienced mountaineers or hikers.

  • Rimaye de la République is very tricky: big blocks of snow/ice on the slabs.

  • Big rimaye at the foot of the Punta Helbronner stairway. It can be avoided by walking along the rocky ridge (see photo below).


A photo showing the Punta Helbronner with the new descent marked by a green line.

Translated with permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.