Harry Sales

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Sunday, 15 January 2017 10:37

It is with sadness that we report of the death of Harry Sales

Harry’s funeral is on Wednesday 25th January 2017.  In the morning there will be a private cremation and after that, everyone is welcome to attend a Service in Celebration of Harry’s Life, at 2.30 in Paul Church, near Penzance. This will be  followed by Afternoon Tea in the Church Hall.   Afternoon tea with friends was one of Harry’s favourite things!

John Atherton has been asked to handle any enquiries from Club friends, his phone number is 01736 731537 and email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Photos by John Atherton

The one that shows Harry climbing was taken in April 2000, when I took Harry aged 82, on his last climb - Allison's Rib at Bosigran. 

Des Rubens

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Sunday, 03 July 2016 12:30

A Tribute to Des Rubens by Geoff Cohen

Des was a well-known and very popular figure in the Scottish mountaineering world, as attested by the huge numbers that attended his funeral. He started climbing at Edinburgh University in 1970 and soon became President of the university mountaineering club, establishing friendships, including with his wife Jane, that were to endure throughout his life. Des was a bold and proficient ice climber, with a variety of new routes to his name, especially in the more remote corners of the Highlands. He was not only a great lover of the Scottish hills (he had just four Munros left to do), for walking, climbing and ski touring, but also a keen stravaiger of the wild coasts and islands, with a few sea canoeing trips to his credit. Abroad Des took part in over a dozen climbing expeditions, mainly to the Himalaya (starting with an early trip to Afghanistan in 1972) but also to the Caucasus, Andes and Canadian Rockies. He succeeded on many peaks over 6000m, but was rebuffed at about 7500m on Gasherbrum III and Nanga Parbat. In the Alps Des achieved many great classics of the 1930s (eg Walker Spur, Gervasutti Pillar, N Face of Dru) and more recently, in his sixties, had been ticking off the 4000m peaks, usually by routes more challenging than the voies normales.

Des was an extremely warm-hearted and affable person – it would be hard to find anyone he had crossed swords with. In his professional life he was a teacher of outdoor activities at Craigroyston High School in north Edinburgh. The outpouring of tributes from former pupils, colleagues and members of the Muirhouse community showed how deeply his commitment to taking disadvantaged kids to the outdoors had affected their lives.

Although Des had only recently joined the AC he was well known to many through his long mountaineering career. One of his more recent achievements was to revive the SMC ‘s Edinburgh lecture series, by bringing in Alpine Club and JMCS members. He devoted much thought and energy to this lecture programme and was a delightful and amusing presenter of the speakers, thus ensuring a growing attendance, drawing people from a considerable distance.

Though I will miss him terribly, I count myself incredibly fortunate to have had him as a close friend and climbing partner for over forty years. We formed a harmonious team with similar outlook on the mountains and both enjoyed our inexhaustible banter.

Des will be sorely missed by his many many friends, and my heart goes out to his family.

Ken Wilson

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Friday, 17 June 2016 18:13

We are saddened to hear of the recent death of Ken Wilson, one of the most influential and controversial figures in the British mountaineering scene over the last half century.

Ken's training as a photographer, and his involvement with some of the leading British climbers of the day, led to him becoming one of the more recognised recorders of the climbing scene in the 1960s and 70s. He re-launched 'Mountain Craft' as 'Mountain', which became an important international journal covering contemporary mountain stories, ethics, and controversy in general, always illustrated with stunning photography.

His publishing career continued with Granada, Diadem, and finally his own business Baton Wicks, most notably with the hugely successful series of large format volumes covering rock climbs and walks, starting with Hard Rock in 1974.

His application for membership of the AC in 1972 generated a wealth of correspondence, with those members threatening to resign if he were elected neatly balanced by those who would resign if he were not elected.

Happily he was elected.

He continued to court controversy with strong opinions on club membership, climbing ethics, bolts, politics, etc, and with a particularly annoying habit of usually being right.

His last appearance at Charlotte Road was to cast his vote in the Presidential election in 2010.

Ken had been quite ill for some time, and died on 12th June 2016. 

A Celebration of a Life:  Ken Wilson

on Saturday 30th July, starting at 5.00pm (prompt) and finishing at about 6.30pm.

in the Pennine Lecture Theatre, City Campus, Sheffield Hallam University, Howard Building, Howard Street, S1 1WB, (about a five-minute walk from the railway station and about a half-hour drive from Stanage Edge).

Organised by the CC and the BMC, all are welcome. Please come and celebrate the life and achievements of one of the biggest characters of the modern climbing scene who revolutionised magazine and book publishing.

The Heartspace Atrium, which adjoins the Pennine will be open serving beer, wine, tea and coffee.

Ken Wilson: Photograph by John Cleare

Piolets d'Or awards 2016 celebration

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Created: Tuesday, 03 May 2016 16:17

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In-spite of being moved to la Grave for the first time the event was well attended. 

Jim Curran

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Monday, 18 April 2016 20:59

It is with sadness that we report the death of Jim Curran on 5th April, following a long illness. Many will know Jim was a freelance mountain cameraman, writer and artist. He joined the Club in 1985 and exhibited some of his paintings at the AC London Clubhouse in 2004.

Alan Rouse, Dave Wilkinson, Brian Hall, Jim Curran and Al Burgess, K2 Expedition, 1986

J. M. C. Evans

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Friday, 01 April 2016 16:33

In memorandum - Chuck Evans

Chuck Evans kindly contributed a short story to my book The Pen y Gwryd Hotel: Tales from the Smoke Room (Gomer Press, pending).

I have reproduced this below; it is a reflection of the happy times Chuck and his extended family had at the Gwryd. I trust it makes a small but fitting contribution to his memorial.

Kind regards,

Dr Rob Goodfellow   (New South Wales)

‘Whatever Mr Briggs says is true’ - Chuck Evans

Living in Bangor and then Capel Curig, my brothers Robin and Peter and I were often taken to the Pen y Gwryd when we were boys and, later on with my father (Sir Robert Charles Evans, deputy leader on the 1953 British Everest Expedition and leader of the expedition which first climbed Kangchenjunga in 1955) and mother, Lady Denise Evans (the first female President of the Alpine Club) for the regular Everest and Kangchenjunga reunions. Later still, many times, it was after completing the Snowdon Horseshoe for a well merited pint.

The PyG was, and still is, a magical place. As children, we were often installed in the snug behind the bar and Blodwen, the ‘maid of maids’ (dressed in traditional Welsh black), would look after us by serving hot buttered toast, forever after known in our family as ‘Pen y Gwryd toast’. And I recall that there were funny napkins with a few choice phrases written in both Welsh and English. (Probably this is still the limit of my Welsh.)

As a boy, I was fascinated by the oxygen cylinder and other holy relics of the 1953 British Everest Expedition in the glass case in the Smoke Room. And every member of the expedition had a silver pint beer tankard; and, when my father was not there, I got to drink from it too.

One story I like to recall is about the Police visiting the Hotel, questioning Blodwen about after-hours or Sunday opening. Blodwen gave the policeman a stern look and despite persistent interrogation all she would say was, ‘Whatever Mr Briggs says is true.’

I also remember Jane Pullee organising Hallowe’en parties where the staff were dressed up as ghosts. Such happy times!

In the year that my father died (1995), we celebrated the 40th anniversary of the ascent of Kangchenjunga and my two year old daughter, Natasha, made the first cut in the cake, whilst my then six month old boy, Charlie, lay asleep on a blanket on the floor in the PyG dining room as we drank champagne opposite the ‘captain’s table’, where for many years Chris Briggs would host, amongst others, the likes of David Cox and Kevin Fitzgerald, two real gentlemen!

Wonderful memories!

Chuck Evans (1959-2016) was the eldest son of Sir Charles and Lady Denise Evans. He also did some Himalayan exploration in the late 1980s and early 1990s, including Jaonli in India, Churen Himal in mid-west Nepal and Saipal in far west Nepal, as well as a visit to Khumbu. When not enjoying the mountains or sailing, Evans advised French companies in difficulties with their respective banks.

March 16 - BMC calls on all lovers of the outdoors to Mend Our Mountains

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Created: Thursday, 17 March 2016 11:47

Sir Chris Bonington, Doug Scott CBE and Julia Bradbury are backing a major new British Mountaineering Council (BMC) campaign to raise money for environmental projects on some of Britain’s most iconic peaks: Mend Our Mountains.

Roger Chorley

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Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Friday, 11 March 2016 18:09

Roger (Lord) Chorley, Alpine Club President 1983-1985, AC President’s Portrait, by John Cleare

Some Memories of Roger Chorley         

I got to know Roger Chorley well when I became the Club Hon. Secretary in 1972. By then he was already distinguished in mountaineering circles as a member of the Alpine Climbing Group, an experienced Himalayan and Alpine climber, a member of the management committee of the MEF, and a former President of the CUMC and Hon Secretary of the CC. He was also an established Partner – soon to become Senior Partner - of the prestigious London Accountants, Cooper Brothers (as they then were). To me, a callow youth still in his twenties, Roger was the embodiment of urbanity and sophistication though, on reflection and making a quick calculation, he was only a decade or so older than me. His friendship and support, however, were extended unconditionally and unstintingly as was his wise advice and assistance.

Two memories of Roger spring to mind from those days. The first, illustrative of the negotiating skills his obituarists have noted, was the anxiety and the wholly benevolent and careful scheming which preceded his bearding of the Club’s housekeeper, the formidable and cantankerous but fiercely loyal Mrs Lewis, with a view to getting her to accept retirement. To the surprise of all involved – perhaps not least herself – she accepted it like a lamb after an interview with Roger. The second memory is of his disarming wit. For some reason some sections of the Club always wanted their sixpenny-worth at the Annual meeting. At the AGM one year Roger’s Hon Treasurer’s report to the assembled members consisted simply of the words ‘In the last twelve months we have made a profit. Are there any questions?’ That silenced even the ‘Tribal Chieftains’, the likes of the late great Douglas Milner.

Of course, Roger’s career became increasingly distinguished in later life when he succeeded his father as an hereditary and later an elected member of the House of Lords. He was Chairman of the National Trust and President of the RGS and he graced many committees, boards and commissions. By no means least was the leadership he gave as President of our own Club. Over the years his contributions to the Alpine Club have been manifold. He played a major role in the reintegration of the ACG into the main body of the Club; he led the move to merge the Club with the LAC when the issue of admitting women was raised; and, perhaps his greatest legacy, it was he who spearheaded the move to form the library into a charitable trust, a move which has enabled us to preserve and nurture our greatest treasures.

Roger’s love of mountains, and especially of the Lakeland hills could be seen in the pictures throughout the Hawkshead house which he and Ann cherished. Understated as he was, he ended his President’s valedictory address with a quotation which reflects exactly that love, and which has a particular poignancy given his disability following polio when he was in his twenties. He said ‘Perhaps the last word should be indeed on our own hills, from Geoffrey Young, in reflective mood at the end of a unique Alpine career, ‘For me, too, our own hills, within the measure of my walking, are as lovely and as full of surprises as they ever were.’

Mike Baker
8th March 2016

As President, in 1985, Roger went out of his way to help us take up Harish Kapadia's suggestion of a joint Bombay Mountaineers-Alpine Club expedition to the disputed Siachen region in the East Karakoram.  We needed money and Roger had the clout to help us get it.  First he generously provided us with a long list of likely names in the City who might – and did – contribute towards our organising and travel costs.  Second he gave us a tipoff that Grindlays Bank might be favourably disposed.  The very day they received my letter – with a covering note from Roger –  Harish was summoned to the Grindlays head office in Bombay to be told that our entire expenses in India were covered.  What was impressive was the way Roger, even though he was no longer able himself to do serious mountaineering, put himself out to help younger climbers set off on a great adventure.  Our expedition to the Rimo massif was a huge and enjoyable success, with many miles of glacier explored and many ascents made, including the first ascent of Rimo III by Jim Fotheringham and Dave Wilkinson.  It was also the start of a long and still fruitful association between Harish Kapadia and the Alpine Club.  And it was all made possible by Roger.

Stephen Venables

5th April 2016

Ken Wilson awarded at Kendal Mountain Festival

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Created: Tuesday, 01 December 2015 10:52

Ed Douglas Awarded Best Mountaineering Article Oct 2015

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Created: Monday, 09 November 2015 14:27

Terence Goodfellow

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Created: Tuesday, 29 September 2015 10:21

Glyn Hughes writes: I am sorry to have to tell members of the death of our member Terence Goodfellow. Terence had been an AC member since 1962, introduced to the Club by his father Basil Goodfellow, an AC Hon Secretary, who also started Terence on his alpine career.
Terence was a President of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club, and while at university was member of an expedition to Baffin Island.
In 1968 he was a member of a team who climbed Miangul Sar in Swat Kohistan. We believed this to be a first ascent, but later discovered we had been pipped to the post by an Austrian party who climbed it from the opposite side. At least ours was a new route.
Terence was a regular attender at AC lectures until quite recently when his mobility became restricted.

Robert Caukwell

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Created: Wednesday, 29 July 2015 13:05

It is with sadness that we report the recent death of Robert Caukwell. He was a member of the AC for 47 years from 1960, resigning in 2007 due to illness.

Piolet d'Or 2015

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Created: Friday, 24 April 2015 14:54

Tribute to Dennis Davis from Dennis Gray

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Created: Thursday, 23 April 2015 13:36

Dennis was without doubt a leading British alpinist of the 1950's and into the 1960's. My own keenest memories of my own climbs with him were an ascent of Pigott's route in the big winter of 1962/3, when he led the final crack with its severe ice coating, shod in tricouni studded boots in the coldest conditions I have experienced in the UK, and an ascent around the same period of the Western Gully of Black Ladders. It was on such winter climbs, and in the Alps and the Himalaya that Dennis showed his outstanding abilities as a mountaineer.

Dennis Davis

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Created: Thursday, 23 April 2015 13:34

An extract from a tribute written by Jim Gregson for the Karabiner Mountaineering Club

From 1946 onwards, Dennis had amassed a huge range of experience in the UK and the European Alps, but he also had the drive and ambition that allowed him to make his mark in the Greater Ranges. He had tried to get a place on the expedition which made the first ascent of Kangchenjunga but this was not to be. Instead, Dennis went in the same year, 1955, to the Rolwaling Himal where in a single lengthy trip his expedition team made first ascents of no less than 19 peaks of 20,000 feet altitude. In 1957 he went back to altitude in Nepal on expedition to Annapurna IV with Charles Evans and then to Distaghil Sar.