If you are attending the club’s Joint Alpine meet to Randa between the 7th & 28th July and passing through Zermatt then you may want to look out for a couple of locations that have a bit of a connection with the club.
Some information for the coming weekend which promises to be warm and sunny. In the high mountain, be aware that the freezing level is going to rise significantly. The conditions may change from one day to the next. Some extra info in the route book
There have been a number, (too many!) of accidents due to slipping on firm snow : make sure you have the right information and equipment for your proposed route.
Albert 1er
- Hut approach : by the moraine for hikers or from Charamillon, (do not take the Autannes lift,) for alpinists (still some snowfield, be aware of falling snow blocks).
- Col Supérieur du Tour and col du Midi des Grands OK, col du Tour dry (fixed rope in place to reach the glacier but take care of stonefall, epecially if other ropes are around.)
- Aiguille du Tour : summit ridge dry, normal route and Table ridge OK.
- Tête Blanche : Normal route OK, the bergschrund on the N face is very open but can be crossed on the left.
- Petite Fourche OK
- Chardonnet : Normal route and descent OK. Some ice on the Bosse to reach the Forbes Arete, but one ice axe is enough; the ridge is dry but OK. The bergschrund at the start of the Migot Spur is crossed on the right. The ice starts at the exit onto the summit slope but conditions generally good.
Argentière Basin
It is finished here for the skiers, (though still possible in the Monte Rosa area.)
- Hut approach : The snow starts at Point de Vue, ladders and access to the glacier OK, (steep névé). From the summit of the Grands Montets, descend in line with the Rognon then bear right to take advantage of the snow. Do not follow the track traversing under the Aig Verte, (crevasses, exposed to serac fall.)
- Tournier Spur is still being done. The Courtier, however, is not in condition, (bergschrund very open and a lot of ice in the couloir). This will also be true for the Couloir du Y on the Aig d’Argentiere in a few days.
- Col du Tour Noir and Col d'Argentière OK. The approach to the Col Supérieur du Tour Noir and traverse of the Aiguille du Tour Noir are OK.
- Arête du Jardin and Flèche Rousse OK, Glacier du Milieu is hard snow with a good trail/footsteps, (only for experienced alpinists, as it is currently harder than the PD+ grade)
- The approach to many of the rock routes is made easier with the snow, (the approaches to the Aiguilles du Génépy and Refuge are dry). Great conditions for climbing in the sun!
Charpoua hut
No snow on the new path to the hut.
The rock is dry! The Contamine routes on the Grand Dru and the Évêque are popular.
The traverse of the Drus (normal route) is being done, (still some snow, the glacier is OK)
Couvercle Hut
- The Whymper is becoming technically harder, several parties have turned back at the bergschrund. (fixed rope still in place?) The secondary couloir is very dry. Still OK for abseilling down, if you respect the time of day.
- Grands-Montets ridge is being done regularly, the Point Cigogne is still under snow and so is bypassed.
- Nobody has done the Moine Ridge yet, though it looks feasible.
- Col Armand Charlet, bergschrund OK, 2 pitches of 15m to climb the lower runnel, couloir OK. The left-hand exit is dry, the right-hand one goes on thin ice. The traverse between the Aiguille du Jardin and the Grande Rocheuse is good, neither to dry or too much snow.
- Arête du Jardin, in good condition, bergschrund and couloir OK for the moment, some rock is showing through but not causing problems. The rock section is mainly dry with just a little bit of verglace.
- The Couloir en Oblique on the Droites normal route no longer goes. It is, therefore, necessary to take the lower route. The mixed section is in good condition and the abseils OK.
- The Courtes: “there and back “or the traverse in good condition, just have to avoid descending too late.
- Pointe Isabella remains popular, nothing to note other than the bergschrund and crevasses are increasing in size, the mixed section has lots of snow and the summit ridge is snow.
- The Moine : normal route, S ridge integral and Contamine, (E face) are all OK.
- Nonne-Évêque, good conditions, some snow in places but not causing any problems. The bergschrunds are OK.
L'Envers des Aiguilles
There is a problem with the water supply, so the hut is not taking any reservations for the moment. The problem may be resolved this weekend
Still 2 snowfields to cross to reach the hut, crampons very useful! For the climbing, conditions are good.
Grépon-Mer de Glace : approach by the lower ramp and then the bergschrund is OK. The descent by the Nantillons glacier is OK for the moment but the snow quality is likely to rapidly deteriorate with the heat.
Plan de l'Aiguille
The 1st section of the Aiguille du Midi lift opens on Saturday 30th June. Grand Balcon Nord in good condition, (1 snowfield remains but a good track has been made with a pick).
- Frendo Spur done on 28/06 in good conditions.
- Charmoz-Grépon Traverse : still a little bit of snow on the ledges but it is good. Descent by the Nantillons glacier in good condition, no ice, a small crevasse to jump, though larger ones are beginning to appear.
Cosmiques Hut
- the hut approach, either up the Valley Blanche or traversing from Punta Helbronner, is OK.
- Midi-Plan has been done both upwards and down to the Requin hut,
- Triangle du Tacul : Chéré, Grisolle, Négri have been done, (no further info.)
- Traverse by the 3Monts , (does not appear to be skiable anymore): ladder in place at the Tacul bergschrund, the ice starts at the Col du Mont Maudit and on the Mur de la Côte : 2 ice axes useful for the leader.
Grands Mulets hut
Finished for the skiers, (too much carrying and bad snow.)
- Hut approaches either from the tunnel, (the traverse of the Jonction is no longer waymarked but without problems) or via the Gite à Balmat are OK.
- N Ridge of the Dôme du Goûter in good condition, feasible in descent with the right skill level.
Mont-Blanc normal route :
- Tête Rousse approach for alpinists only. The tramway stops at the Col du Mont Lachat, it is forbidden to go up the rail track. the route by the Dérochoir is steep, technical, with lots of snow and dangerous for the inexperienced, (crampons and ice axe essential.) The path between the Chalets de l'Are and the Nid d'Aigle is in a very poor state, (landslip) and is signposted closed.
- Grand Couloir: The traverse of the couloir is still snow/ice and the cable is in place. Respect the time of day and do not try and cross it after midday.
- Dôme du Goûter and Bosses ridge are in good condition.
Plan Glacier / Durier / Conscrits
- The summer path to the Conscrits is open, (footbridge in place.)
- Still some snow on the path between the Col de Tricot and Plan Glacier.
- The Miage glacier is still filled in and the ridge below the Durier hut is almost dry.
- Mettrier Ridge intégral is feasible, dry up to 3300 m, exit slopes still with snow.
- Good conditions for the traverses of the Dômes de Miage and Bionnassay and are popular.
Rifugio Monzino
- Approach to the Eccles Bivouac by the Brouillard glacier is OK but plan to arrive before midday, (snow bridges become dangerous.)
- Innominata and Brouillard ridges in good condition.
- Grand Pilier d'Angle and the Peuterey ridge from the Col Eccles in mediocre condition, (lots of ice in the upper sections.)
- Access to the Pilier Rouge by Brouillard glacier is OK
- Punta Innominata OK
- Aiguille Noire : crossing the Freney glacier is OK, the lower pitches on the Ratti-Vitali look to be dry now. Equipes des Bras Cassés and Brendel are OK.
- Aiguille Croux : still snow on the approach, (crampons and ice axe needed), Ottoz, Bertone-Zappelli and Cheney OK.
Torino Hut
- Brenva Spur is being climbed regularly in good conditions: access to the glacier from the Fourche bivouac is OK. Ascent by the Gussfeld variant OK, hard ice beneath 40cm of inconsistent snow for the last 20 metres below the ridge. The spur OK, 2 axes useful. The best exit goes rightwards to the Brenva Col and takes some finding but is good.
- Both the Kuffner Ridge (the ridge between the Fourche bivouac and the start is unstable and difficult to protect, best to start directly by the couloir,) and the Aiguilles du Diable traverse are popular and in good condition.
- Rochefort Ridge and Dent du Géant in top condition. Likewise, for the Aiguille d'Entrêve, the Marbrées (rock dry, climbing without crampons) and the Aiguille de Toule traverses.
- Tour Ronde : the Gervasutti is still feasible, (take the bergschrund on the left, no ice) The N face is becoming more difficult, (delicate ice in the central gully.) SE Ridge intégral and descent from the Freshfield Col are OK.
- Rochefort - Jorasses traverse has been done in good conditions on 24/06 (still some snow at the level of Pointes Young and Margherite), The descent has been done by the normal route (abseil the Reposoir.) Because of a rockfall, one or more of the belays on the lower part of the abseil line down from the Canzio bivouac to the to the Planpincieux glacier are missing. Foresee a double rope to bypass the missing abseil points.
Some miscellaneous information :
- There is still a large patch of hard snow between Flégère and Lac Blanc and a lot, (too much,) snow between the Chéserys lakes and Lac Blanc.
- The path between the Col du Brévent and the Brévent summit is dangerous. From Planpraz, follow the ski piste to the Brèche du Brévent and so to the summit. Descents via the Bellachat hut and the Aiguillette des Houches are OK, despite some remaining snow patches.
- Ice axe and crampons necessary for the Tour des Aiguilles Rouges and to reach most of the rock routes, (this includes the Crochues traverse.)
- Still 3 snowfields on the way to the Jonction, poles and good boots suffice.
- Crampons useful for the Perrons routes, (Badabing, Squatteurs de Lune. etc.) Perrons traverse popular, still quite a lot of snow on the descent.
- Bodinausore on the Brévent : many bolts are missing, friends/nuts could be useful .
- Cocher-cochon : ice axe and good boots useful for the approach, descent dry .
- Via ferrata and via corda des Evettes are OK without crampons.
A quick update following several days of good weather. With the warmth, conditions are rapidly evolving and some alpine route may soon not be practical. The mountain footpaths, however, are improving with each day.
- Albert 1er : The Migot Spur and Forbes Aret are being done regularly, good conditions if there is a good freeze. Some ice is beginning to appear on the Migot. No problems yet on the descent by the normal route.
The classics in this sector (Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, normal route on the Aiguille du Tour...) are in condition. The Table couloir is no longer practical, one needs to take the Table Ridge from the start.
There is still a lot of snow on the hut approach from the La Tour lifts; ice axe and crampons essential. Some snow blocks have detached and slid across the footpath, take care. The path from the lifts is not yet recommended for hikers.
- Argentière : good conditions for the Petite Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille d'Argentière (glacier du Milieu, Whymper, Flèche Rousse, Arête du Jardin). Very hard snow in places. The « Y » has been done, no further information).
The Tournier Spur on the Droites was climbed in very dry conditions and difficult to protect. A lot of bare ice on the Couturier and the bergschrund appears to be very open.
- Charpoua : The « Y » is no longer in condition, The Flammes de Pierre is dry, the Contamine on the Evêque is OK, A party went for the Contamine on the Dru this Saturday. Still some snow on the Drus normal route, should be OK by the end of the week.
- Couvercle : Generally good conditions in this sector if there is a good freeze.
Arête du Jardin on the Verte has been done but not that on the Moine, (snow). The Whymper remains popular. The normal route on the Droites, traverse of the Courtes and the Aig de Talèfre have all been done. Parties on the Moine, (including the E Face Contamine), the Nonne-Evêque and the Évêque.
- Leschaux : Good conditions continue in this sector, (see the hut Facebook page.) The Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses will soon be dry.
Still some snow fields on the traverse path to the Couvercle, crampons useful in the morning.
- Envers des Aiguilles : The rock is mostly dry. The bergschrund for the République is awkward but passable, followed by not much snow in the couloir but OK. One party on the Charmoz-Grépon this Saturday. Another party on the Bec d'Oiseau on Friday, no further information. The Ryan was done last week in OK conditions, (see route book.)
- Requin : Rock dry behind the hut. Parties ascending the Valley Blanche towards the Cosmiques and Skyway.
- Torino : Generally good conditions but be aware of stonefall around the Tour Ronde. There is a track on the Traverse of the Jorasses but no further information and there appears to be still too much snow. Aiguilles du Diable traverse OK but still some snow between the Isolée and the summit.
- Cosmiques : Good refreezing and good conditions in this sector. These last few days has seen parties on the Küffner. The Triangle du Tacul, (Contamine-Grisolle and Chéré) and the 3 Monts traverse are being done. Laurence Ridge, Cosmiques Ridge and Pointes Lachenal are popular.
- Plan de l'Aiguille : Parties on the Peigne, the Pélerins and the Petits Charmoz. No problems for the descent of the Nantillons glacier for the moment. The Frendo is being climbed, given a good freeze.
- Grands Mulets : Activity continues in this sector. Ice is slowly reappearing on the N Ridge of the Dome, but condtions are still OK.
Durier/ Plan Glacier/ Conscrits : Good conditions in this sector, if there is a good freeze. The Bionnassay Ridge, Dômes de Miage and Mont Tondu are popular. No information either for the Lée Blanche or the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête. Approach to the hut possible by the glacier.
- Monzino : good conditiions for the Pointe Innominata, some ice on the ridge Some parties on the S ridge of the Noire Noire and the Aiguille Croux.
Climbing on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard (Gabarrou-Long, Anneaux Magiques et Bonatti).
- Gonella : The hut approach is in good condition, ascending the true right bank of the Miage glacier, crevasses filled in. The Voie du Pape is tracked, good conditions, the glacier is OK though there are some fragile snow bridges. The ridge after the Piton des Italiens is broad. Nobody for the moment for the Tournette Spur, probably have to wait until next week, (the gully up to the Sella bivouac is already very dry and with a little ice above.)
Conditions for hikers are improving but some sectors still have a lot of snow, notably on the big Aig Rouges classics. Good mountain boots and hiking oles are the minimum recommended and depending on the route, crampons and ice axe may be essential. (Tour des Aiguilles Rouges, Mont Buet, Lacs Noirs, Glière, Lac Blanc, Col du Brévent, Albert 1er from the lifts...).
The Tour du Mont Blanc is very popular but care is needed in crossing the cols and streams. Proper equipment is needed. Crampons are advisable and essential on some of the variations.
Ice axe and crampons may be useful for the approach to certain approaches and descents for the rock climbs in the Aig Rouges.
News has reached us of the death of Club Member Teddy Faure-Walker.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
A weekend update to the report from the 12th June, (which for the most part is still valid).
Most of the lifts in the valley opened on the 16th June, (more info here) but there is still a lot of snow above a certain altitude. Check that your chosen footpaths are passable and have the right equipment with you.
The work at the Grand Balcon Sud between Planpraz and Flégère is finished and the footpath now open. There is still a lot of snow on the way to Lac Blanc, (from the Index and Flégère: crampons essential). No problems to get to the Chéserys lakes and to descend to Trè- le-Champ or the Col des Montets
The Grand Balcon Nord, between Montenvers and the path descending to Chamonix via Blaitière is OK. However, there are steep snow fields to cross to reach the Plan de l’Aiguille.
The large boulder which was blocking the path up the Berard valley has been cleared (dynamited!) Above 1700m there is still a lot of snow.
At Loriaz, the snow is still causing problems both towards Emosson and the col de la Terrasse: crampons and ice axe needed.
For the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is still snow at the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme but there is a good track. The Fours variation is only feasible with crampons. The bridge at the level of Arnuva is not yet in place. For the moment crampons are necessary for the Grand Col Ferret, because of the exposure on some sections, (though the track is improving with each day.).
Crampons and ice axe advisable for those wanting to access the rock climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges.
The return of good weather on Thursday, has encouraged activity in the high mountains.
The Grands Montets lifts opened on Saturday. The Petite Verte looks to be in good condition. The Couturier has been done in good conditions, (glacier approach OK, a small vertical section at the bergschrund, no ice but very firm snow for the whole of the couloir), descent by the Whymper.
The Leschaux hut is open. The SW couloir of the Eboulement is in good condition and popular. The rock climbs above the hut are dry.
The damaged ladders on the way up to the Envers hut have been replaced.
The N ridge of the Dôme du Gouter is tracked.
Concerning the 3 Monts route, there is quite a lot of fresh snow, (20cms at the Cosmiques), making the avalanche risk on the Maudit too important. (Tacul tracked). Patience needed.
A party turned back on the Midi Plan Ridge, (no further info). Chéré, Cosmiques Ridge, Laurence Ridge and Pointes Lachenal traverse are all popular.
The annual Mont Blanc Unlimited pass is valid on the Skyway (Courmayeur) while the Aig du Midi lift is closed.
Concerning the Gouter route up Mont Blanc, the MB Tramway is open as far as the col du Mont Lachat. It is forbidden to go up the rail tracks to the Nid d’Aigle. Either take the path by the Chalets de l’Are or by the Dérochoir (lots of snow, crampons and ice axes essential). More info here
On the Italian side, the Monzino and Gonella huts have opened for the season. To get to the Monzino, there is 80m of hard snow at the exit of the equipped section, (a rope is in place and with good boots it is OK). Climbing on the Aiguille Croux (Ottoz, some snow on the normal route descent,) and the Aiguille Noire (S ridge, Ratti). The Freney glacier is OK. No tracks yet up to the Eccles bivvy but the glacier and the Innominata ridge look to be in good condition. Too early for the Brouillard ridge, (too much snow).
No specific information for the Voie des Papes , (Mont Blanc from the Gonella), but with all the snow this year one would expect it to be in good condition, (if there is a good freeze.)
On the 6th of June 2018, the British team of Guy Buckingham, Malcolm Bass and Paul Figg succeeded in making the 1st ascent of the Janhukot in the Garhwal region of the Indian Himalaya via the south west buttress onto the south ridge. This remote and difficult to access mountain lies beyond the well-known peak of Shivling (6543m), at the end of the long Gangotri glacier, 19 km beyond Base Camp.
Changeable weather, unreliable refreezing, rain up to 3600m, Aig du Midi lift closed….. Despite all this, things are still getting done in the mountains. Lower down, the snows are slowly receding, though there is still a significant amount in the cwms and below the cols.
The Aiguille du Midi and Plan de l’Aiguille cable cars will be closed until 7th July. The Planpraz cable car opened today (12th). Montenvers is open and most of the other lifts will open this coming weekend (16th). More info at Compagnie du Mont Blanc.
However, just because the lifts are open does not mean that all the footpaths above are possible. There is still a lot of snow in places, together with the associated dangers.
Albert 1er :
It is still best to get to the hut by the moraine path, (crampons not necessary as far as the hut.) Be aware of stonefall danger when crossing the gully after the Combe de la Vormaine.
No major changes since the last update. When the weather permits, the classics are being done, despite often a lack of refreezing: Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, Aiguille du Chardonnet (Forbes Arête, Migot Spur, descent OK). The S ridge of the Aiguille Purtscheller is dry.
The narrows in the Table Gully on the Aig du Tour are dry.
Mer de Glace Hut approaches :
The prepared paths (new Charpoua route, Egralets, Leschaux) were damaged this winter and are slowly being put back in order. The approach to the Envers hut is not recommended because a ladder is detached and many of the metal footsteps are deformed. There is avalanche debris covering the route to the Requin hut. The moraine at the foot of the Montenvers ladders does not present problems.
Couvercle
Despite the lack of refreezing these last 10 days, snow shoes are no longer necessary, the snow being firm enough. The bergschrunds are opening up and though often awkward, are still passable.
The wake-up calls are earlier than usual because early starts are essential.
The Contamine and Miss Tiques (Moine) are dry, (risk of resurgences after rain/storms.)
Whymper: a fixed rope is in place to cross the bergschrund. Soft snow in the secondary couloir and on the traverse back into the main couloir, where conditions are good. More info in the Chamoniarde Route Book).
Col Armand Charlet: The bergschrund here is better than the others. The couloir in good condition. Still a lot of snow on the summit ridges.
Still too early for the Jardin Ridge, one needs to find the right window, (i.e bergschrund still OK but the rock dry), which is likely to be small.
The normal route on the Droites in good by the diagonal gully (bergschrund goes on the true left), mixed section in good condition.
There and back by the normal route on the Courtes OK. The traverse looks feasible but the descent from the Col des Cristaux could be problematical depending on the time of day and the freezing level, only for fast parties!
Pointe Isabelle, on foot, in good condition.
For experienced hikers, there are still some snowfields on the approach by the Egralets and on the new path to Charpoua hut. Crampons and ice axe necessary for the traverse to the Leschaux hut, which is in reasonable condition, (access to the glacier is made easier with the snow, but some steep snow to traverse, notably in the gorge just before the hut.)
Torino
The amount of refreezing varies from night to night, (never below -1°C.) It rained at 3500m!
Dent du Géant : crevasses on the glacier filled in, the approach to the Salle à Manger in good condition,. Still some snow and ice in some of the cracks but not bad.
Rochefort Arete in very good condition, but it is too early for the traverse of the Jorasses, (normal route in good condition.)
Tour Ronde: the bergschrund on the Gervasutti is open but passable. SE ridge and the Col Freshfield OK.
Küffner has been done but not recommended unless there is a good freeze.
Rock climbing on the satellites, (including the Grand Capucin).
Cosmiques
The approach is from the Punta Helbronner (Skyway open). The ascent up the Valley Blanche is awkward, especially as the Requin hut is shut, (due to open 15th June). Rain and wet snow at the beginning of the week. The track on the Tacul, however, was recovered by snow.
Some parties attempted the 3 Monts at the weekend but were turned back by the weather, (strong winds at altitude.) The Tacul is in good condition but the Maudit is awkward, (a breaking crust over 40cms of granular snow). The parties escaped by the Corridor route. The Cosmiques Ridge, Pointe Lachenal traverse and Chéré gully are in condition. The routes on the N face of the Aiguille du Midi are awkward due to the lack of freezing. Crampons necessary on the rock sections of the Frendo.
Goûter/Tête Rousse
The normal route up Mont Blanc in good condition. As elsewhere, the problem is with the unstable weather. There is no snow as far as the Nid d’Aigle (approach by the Chalets de l’Are or the rail track.) The snow is receding on the way up to the Gouter but crampons are still necessary. The cables are beginning to reappear, making things more agreeable
The Bellevue cable car and the Mont Blanc Tramway, (only as far as the Col du Mont Lachat,) open on 16th June.
Grands Mulets
The Plan de l’Aiguille cable car is shut for work, (re-opening foreseen for 7th July). The approach to the hut is by the Para path. The snow starts just below the Gare des Glaciers (count on carrying the skis for 1h30-2h from the tunnel). The hut warden has remarked the way at the Jonction with poles, one only needs to remove the skis for about 40m.
The N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is in good condition, with virtually no ice. The way is tracked both on foot and by ski and in descent.
The N face was skied on 10/06 in the mist. Despite the lack of refreezing, the ski conditions are OK, (hard snow) down to the Jonction.
Conscrits
There is no longer snow at the hut. The approach is tracked on foot is by the glacier, (the summer path still not passable.)
The Dômes de Miage traverse is in good condition, the ridge is well tracked and broad.
The Aiguille de Tré-la-Tête, (there and back,) has been done. There is still a lot of snow, a bit of “ploughing” but basically in good condition, with no ice.
The Bérangère cwm is also in good condition.
Some ski alpinists traversed the Bionnassay ridge to the Dôme du Goûter. Good conditions but a long approach.
The warden thinks that if the current weather continues, the N face of the Lée Blanche will be in excellent condition for skiing.
The Gonella and Monzino are due to open the 15th June.
Plan de l’Aiguille
NNE Ridge of the Aiguille du M, traverse and SW pillar of the Petits Charmoz, Papillons Ridge, Minettes Spur, and the normal route on the Peigne have been done, (no further info.) The cable car is shut but the Plan de l’Aiguille hut remains open. The paths beneath the lift cables are closed. The approach is by Blaitière and the Pré du Rocher.
We will be celebrating Mark’s life on Saturday July 21st at 1.30 for 2pm
We’d like to invite family and friends to join us at:
The Edge (University of Sheffield conference centre)
Endcliffe Student Village
34 Endcliffe Crescent
Sheffield S10 3ED
Drinks afterwards in The Edge bar until 5pm.
It would help us enormously if you could let us know if you will be attending.
(No need to reply if you can’t come, thanks.)
There is a permit-only car park on site, also road parking. We can email you a parking permit, which you can print, and there’s road parking too.
Dress: Cheerful, please.
Please reply by July 9th to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Jan and Jody
After superb winter meet in Morskie Oko in March 2018, We would like to return to the Tatra Mountains in February 2019. This time visiting Hala Gasienicowa, which is one of the major winter climbing areas in Poland.
The Aiguille du Midi cable car is closed again, for technical reasons. It is due to reopen on 7th July, (to be confirmed.) The first leg, (to Plan de l’Aiguille,) will remain open until 17th June. However, the Grand Bois and Pré du Rocher footpaths are currently closed for work by a council byelaw.
Albert 1er Sector:
On the approach via the moraine, the snow starts around 200m below the hut. The approach from Charamillon is not recommended, (steep snowfields).
The classic normal routes on the Tete Blanche, Petite Fourche, Aiguille du Tour, as well as the Forbes Ridge and Migot Spur are in good condition. No particular problems for the descent by the normal route on the Chardonnet. The lower part of the Table Couloir has a narrow section of rock, after which it is snow.
Argentière Sector:
The lifts are still closed and the footpaths beneath Lognan and Plan Joran/Lognan are closed for work by a council byelaw. Access is therefore complicated. Nonetheless, the Couturier has been done in good conditions even though the "coude" (bend) is ice; descent on the Whymper side.
Couvercle Sector:
The approach is by the new path or the Egralets.
Parties have turned back after the bergshrund on the Whymper and on the Aiguille du Jardin due to lack of freezing.
The Courtes up to the top of the NE slope was in condition.
Pointe Isabelle has been done with skis and snowshoes.
The Contamine on the Moine and Miss Tique have been climbed. The descent by the Moine normal route still has some snow; exposed.
Torino Sector:
The classics in this sector are popular: Aiguilles Marbrées, Aiguilles d'Entrèves, and the Tour Ronde, SE ridge or by the Freshfield Col, (because the“normal winter route”is not in condition), Gervasutti Couloir and the N Face.
Good conditions for the Rochefort Arete and at the Dent du Géant, (some of the rock is still wet and likely to be further affected by the storms over the next few days). Climbing has restarted on the satellites. It is probably too early for the Küffner (cornices). The Brenva Spur looks feasible.
Cosmiques Sector:
Approached from the Requin or the Skyway, as the Aig du Midi lift is shut. There have been parties on the Triangle du Tacul: Petit Frounet, Contamine-Negri and Chéré.
The 3 Monts route has been done with skis and on foot.
Plan de l'Aiguille:
There has been activity on the NE Ridge of the “M” and the traverse of the Petits Charmoz.
Grands Mulets:
Take the lower route between Plan de l'Aiguille and the Gare des Glaciers. The Jonction is crossed on foot.
Mont Blanc was popular last weekend by Plateaux route and by the N ridge of the Dome, where conditions are a bit better, though crampons and ice screws are still essential. The N face of Mont Blanc was skied in good conditions last weekend.
Goûter:
The tramway and cable car are still closed. Nonetheless, the normal route up Mont Blanc is well frequented. The snow starts around the level of the Nid d'Aigle.
Conscrits Sector:
The approach is by the Tré la Tête glacier. There is still too much snow for the approach via the footbridge.
Dômes de Miage traverse is being done on foot and with skis; exposed section on the ridge between the col and the Aiguille de la Bérangère.
Mont Tondu was climbed in good conditions.
N face of the Tré la Tête was climbed, with a ski descent on the Petit Mont Blanc side.
N face of the Dôme de Neige des Glaciers has been skied.
A quick word on the hiking trails:
The snowline is receding, but there is still a lot of snow in certain sectors.
Care, experience and the right equipment remain essential.
Some works are in progress and so certain paths are closed by Council byelaw.
There is still a lot of snow on the Tour du Mont Blanc and some passages require caution. More info here.
Do not hesitate to contact Chamoniarde for more information.
For a change, this report starts with the information for hikers.
There is still a lot of snow at mid altitudes for the time of year. Many of the footpaths and cols are remain affected and there can be a serious risk of snow slides.
For example, the Grand Balcon Nord between Montenvers and Plan de l'Aiguille still has too much snow, (even though the cable car is soon to reopen.)
One needs to be properly equipped, (good boots, crampons, hiking poles etc) and have the correct experience for the route chosen.
In the Chamonix valley the paths are gradually being put back in order after the hard winter, but this still needs more time in some places.
Amongst others, this is the case for the Grand Balcon Sud, (where the path has been washed away for about 40m), the paths in the Argentiere sector and the access path to Lac Vert-Châtelet d'Ayères, making detours necessary.
In the Aiguilles Rouges, the lakes remain covered in snow and difficult to access, as are also the cols in this sector.
In the Bérard valley, the snow level is at about 1700m. The Tour of Aiguilles Rouges is not practicable for the moment. A large boulder has fallen onto the path, blocking it completely.
For the fell runners, you are recommended to check the Vallee du Trail site, or Facebook "Vallée du Trail" or contact La Chamoniarde directly.
Some paths are closed for work. These can be found on arrêtés en cours.
For the Tour du Mont Blanc, there is snow on all the cols from above about 1800m. The "himalayan" bridge and the footbridge below Bionnassay are in place.
For the alpinistes, there has been little information, due to the capricious weather and access difficulties, (lifts closed, paths closed for work… )
The approach to the Albert 1er hut is OK by the moraine but not yet from Charamillon.
For the Couvercle hut, the approach by the Egralets is OK. There is snow on the traverse towards the hut. The warden will be back there from Saturday, 2nd June.
The bergschrund on the Whymper Couloir is open but passable.
The Aig du Midi is to re-open on 2nd June, (to be confirmed.)
Some parties have attempted Mont Blanc by the Gouter, but with the lifts being closed, this is a much longer route than usual.
The Grands Mulets route remains possible with skis, the Jonction now being crossed on foot. Conditions on the N ridge of the Dôme appear to have improved. Ask the warden for more information.
Conditions are changing rapidly. Contact the hut wardens in the sector you are visiting and do not forget to give your feedback to La Chamoniarde afterwards.
Here is an update following the return of better weather, (though still cold with the north wind.)
Couvercle Sector: The Whymper has been redone. The bergschrund is OK and the couloir is not a problem. Despite the recent snowfalls, there still no more snow in the couloir. The approach to the hut is by the central gully. Approaching by the ladders is not yet recommended.
Requin Sector: (The hut closes 21st May evening). The Brêche Puiseux is tracked, (no further info). Traversing the Salle à Manger is still OK but be careful at the start below the hut.
Grands Mulets Sector: the Mont Blanc is tracked by Plateaux and North Ridge. The Jonction is OK. The 40cm of fresh snow is slowly settling, and is good to ski, thanks to the low temperatures. N ridge of the Dôme; despite the recent snow the ice is still present, (foresee adequate equipment for 3 to4 pitches of about 30/40m). The N face has been skied, (good conditions).
Plan de l’Aiguille Sector: A party left this morning, (Friday), for the Eugster Diagonal, (awaiting info).
Aiguille du Midi Cable Car: following an anomaly with one of the cables, the Plan de l’Aiguille / Aiguille du Midi stage will be closed until 27th May. The Chamonix/Plan de l’Aiguille stage remains open until the 21st and then both stages will be closed 22nd to 27th May.
The Cosmiques hut remains open and can be accessed from the Torino. The approach to the Grands Mulets hut is on foot from the valley floor.
The Planpraz lift will open temporarily to compensate for the closure of the Aig du Midi lift. Note: the footpaths at this altitude are still not doable due to deep snow, (risk of slipping and snow slides).
A quick conditions update, though the weather forecast for the coming week is not good:
There has been a lot of activity since the last update but the conditions have changed following the recent snowfall together with winds at altitude.
Skis are still the best way to approach/ return from the routes.
Do not forget to contact the hut wardens to check that they are open and to make a reservation!
This morning, 14th May, there was between 5 to 20 cm of fresh snow between 2100 et 2700 m and an average of 30 cm above 3000 m. With the wind at altitude, expect drifting.
The following was done last week:
- Dômes de Miage, (walking now as far as the Tré la Tête)
- Arête Mettrier
- Mont Blanc by the 3 Monts and the Grands Mulets (ice is still present on the N ridge.)
- Contamine-Negri, Goulotte Chéré (little ice), M6 Solar, Pellissier et Gabarrou-Albinoni (crux pitch dry).
- Couloir Gervasutti on the Tour Ronde, the bergschrund goes on the true left.
- Traverses of the Pointes Lachenal, the Cosmiques and the Aiguilles Marbrées
- Activity also in the Argentière sector, (Swiss Route, Austrian route, Y Couloir….) Due to work expected to last until Autumn, the approach via the Pierre à Ric and a part of Lognan-Plan Joran closed by local bye law. Please respect the restrictions in place.
- Ski touring still popular in the Mont Buet sector. It is necessary to walk as far as the Vordette bridge and then several sections above that. An early start is essential!
- The road up to Emosson is now open, giving access to some good ski touring.
For hikers, there is still a lot of snow at mid altitudes. Most of the paths above 2000m (S side) and 1700/1800m (N side) will not be practical for several weeks. (Grands Balcons North and South, lakes at altitude…) Also, as winter has only just ended some paths have not been re-equipped, (bridges, chains or ladders.) or simply closed for work.
Check before you start.
There is not much to add to the last report, (24th April). The rope on the ridge down to the Valley Blanche will remain in place only until 10th May inclusive.
There was a build-up of windblown snow in the interior of the Mt Blanc massive following the bad weather 10 days ago. With the return of hot weather last weekend, there is a risk of wet snow slides/avalanches, especially on the steeper slopes.
The Grands Mulets route up Mont Blanc is popular. The route up the N ridge of the Dome has 2 sections of ice, one of which is about 60m, requiring 2 axes, ice screws and “proper”, (steel) crampons.
Some people have skied the N face.
From the Cosmiques, the normal route on the Mt Blanc du Tacul has been skied. Two parties left for the traverse of the 3 Monts on Monday morning.
The Whymper Couloir was climbed this morning (7th May). The bergshrund on the right is technical, then snow in the couloir.
The Mallory on the N face of the Aig du Midi was skied at the weekend.
A mid altitudes the snow starts at 1800m (S facing) or 1700m (N facing). The Grand Balcons, north and south, are not yet practical.
It is with sadness that we report the news of the death of our member, Susan Band, on the 27th April.
We understand that there will be a funeral service on the 9th May at Midday in Heckfield.
Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
News has reached us of the death of Club Member Mark Warham, who died on the 28th April at the Royal Marsden Hospital.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
Interview by Adele Long
Hi Cathy, thanks for agreeing to do this interview. Starter question, how long have you been a member of the AC?
Since 2012.
What made you join?
The honest answer is because Sandy Allen had invited me on his Nanga Parbat expedition, and he thought we could get some money from the AC. Obviously I was aware of the existence of the AC, but had a weird set of slightly contradictory stereotypes; first that it was full of Victorian gentlemen and only a certain type of chap or chappess would be eligible to join, second that it was full of people who were incredibly hard core and ordinary alpine climbers were not invited. Neither of which is fair or true. And then of course, I don’t actually live in England so how useful is the Club if you don’t live in England or possibly even London? Those are all the things that stopped me from joining and it was Sandy and the Nanga Parbat expedition that made me think, ‘well okay let’s give it a go’.
We are saddened to receive news that our member Allan Stuart died on April 21st, aged 95. Allan climbed almost exclusively with fellow members of the Wayfarers' Club
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
The latest update on conditions:
Spring has finally arrived in the valley along with a pleasant rise in temperature. The snows are receding up to 1400 m/1600 m depending on the aspect. However, above 2000 m, the residual snow is 1 to 2 metres deep. Do not be fooled by conditions in the valley floor. The state of the hiking trails can be checked by looking at the webcams: https://www.montblancnaturalresort.com/en/webcams.
Snow shoeing remains possible if you are willing walk the first part and start early to avoid the heat of the day, (avalanche risk.)
The good weather has resulted in a lot of activity at altitude this week. Approaching routes on foot is not yet practicable, skis being essential given the high temperatures.
Mont-Blanc: The Grands Mulets route is popular: Skis on at the Plan de l’Aiguille, taking the higher track to reach the Jonction, which remains good for the moment. The N ridge of the Dôme has some ice sections which require pitching, (2 technical axes, ice screws, good crampons). The 3 Monts traverse is tracked (good conditions, Tacul with skis and ski crampons, Maudit half on skis then on foot to the col, Mur de la Côte with crampons.) The N Face of MB has been skied. The Aiguilles Grises route is tracked, (1 party), good conditions, crevasses closed, no ice on the traverse between the Piton des Italiens and the Dôme du Goûter.
Aiguille du Midi: In addition to the comments in the last update, note that rock climbing has restarted on the S face of the Aig du Midi (Rebuffat). The Jager Couloir looks to be dry. The Valley Blanche remains feasible. The ridge and the “Z” track are still equipped. The snow is still OK but some of the snow bridges are weakening with the heat. There is about 5 mins of walking to reach Montenvers.
Tour Ronde: North Face: The bergschrund is OK. The crux pitch up the narrows is hard, grey ice but protectable. The snow on the exit pitches is inconsistent. The Gervasutti looks to have been skied several days ago. There is a 20m abseil on the descent by the normal route. Avoid being too late in the day, some stonefall has already been reported.
Requin: the Brêche Puiseux and col du Tacul remain popular.
Charpoua: Verte - Y couloir in mediocre condition, the lower steps lacking ice and very difficult to protect. The bergschrunds are complex, (lots of zig-zagging.) It is only higher up in the true left branch that the snow is firm.
Couvercle: The hut approach is by the central couloir, (respect the time of day) and by the Pierre à Bérenger (which is starting to degrade.). There is regular activity in the Whymper Couloir, (not skied yet,) some ice at the exit. On descent, either cross the bergschrund on the true left, (30m abseil) or well to the right. Pointe Isabelle is popular. A party is to attempt the normal route on the Droites on 25/04. Some activity on the Col de Talèfre. NE of the Pierre à Joseph was skied 2 days ago.
Argentière: The Lognan and Grands Montets cable cars, as well as the Argentière hut, close on the 1st May. The Petite Aiguille Verte has been skied and climbed on foot by the normal route. The Chevalier couloir has been descended, (1st third on foot, the lower two thirds skied, no problem with the bergschrund).
Aiguille Verte: has been climbed daily, by the Couturier Couloir, the “Z” route and one party by the Nant Blanc face, (see the route book). Les Droites: A party attempted the Legarde today, 24th, (awaiting news). Les Courtes: The Austrian Route has been done several times (see route book,) descending either on the Couvercle side or by the NE slope of the Dolent– voie Charlet Couturier (see route book). The Arête Gallet is tracked. Aiguille d’Argentière - Y Couloir climbed, small step at the bergschrund, exit by the right branch.
All the ski touring routes in this sector are in condition; col des Cristaux – d’Argentière – du Tour Noir – Glacier du Milieu (good footsteps in the snow leading up to the summit,) – 3 cols – Passon.
As well as this, rock climbing is slowly restarting behind the hut.
Albert 1er: The hut is due to close at the end of the month. Chardonnet: The gullies are dry. The Eperon Migot has been done by one party, black ice throughout the route (complicated). The normal route is in good condition, the crevasses on the shoulder glacier are filled in and the bergschrund is OK.
Aiguille du Tour: Normal route in good condition, Table Couloir a bit dry at the start, then good snow to the summit. There are no problems for the Cols Supérieur du Tour – du Midi des Grands. Normal route on the Petite Fourche is in good condition. It is still possible to descend all the way to La Tour village on skis.
Aiguilles Rouges: In the Berard Valley there is skiable snow almost down to the Cascade Cafe. The cols de Bérard, Salenton and the Buet are without problem, as long as one respects the time of day, (start between 5 to 6 am to get the Buet in good conditions.)
Have a good outing !
And a big thank you to all the people who contributed to the route book, thus allowing the Chamoniarde team to make more regular updates!
Please note the call for proposals for research papers from Jonathan Pitches at the University of Leeds.
Members who are interested in responding can contact Jonathan with questions.
We have invited the project organisers to use the AC facilities and archives.
