KENDAL MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL
Brewery Arts Centre Theatre
Sunday 17 November 2019 at 11:45 - 13:45
An evening of epic tales of mountain survival in Africa, Asia and South America with Oswald Oetz, Clive Rowland, Doug Scott CBE, Paul Braithwaite and Simon Yates
Thursday 21 November 2019 – Royal Geographical Society London
Another week of bad, at times tempestuous, weather with snow and strong winds in the mountains. Therefore, it is difficult to estimate the depth of new snow. Looking at the various webcams in the massive will give some idea of the conditions.
The forecast is for better, warmer weather this the weekend, especially in the mountains
This could be a last chance for hikers, climbers and alpinists to profit from this year’s pleasant, autumnal days.
In the high mountain the conditions are already wintery. There has been virtually no activity for some time, and the OHM has not received any information concerning the mixed routes.
Hopefully this will change as the activity restarts and people (please!) report back.
Some classic routes, such as the Aiguille du Tour, Mont Blanc by the Goûter or the Grand Paradiso are feasible for experienced alpinists willing to accept the long approaches, (lifts and huts closed,) and trail breaking. Snowshoes could prove useful.
For those wanting day trips, (near the Aig du Midi or the Punta Helbonner; cable cars still open), the Cosmiques Ridge and the traverses of Pointes Lachenal, Aig des Entrèves or Marbrées are feasible, (in mixed conditions).
Rock climbers need to forget the granite in the massive and go for the routes in the Aiguilles Rouges.
(Planpraz lift open) or the valley crags. Good weather has also been promised for the neighbouring valleys and ranges, (Aravis, Chablais, Aosta Valley, Lower Valais etc.)
Lastly, the hiking trails in the valley are without problems. Make sure you are properly equipped, (good mountain footwear and walking poles,) as the shaded forest trails can be slippery.
The table below is based on an article from Montagnes Magazine 469, October 2019 on the affects of climate change on the 100 routes in Rebuffat’s “Mont Blanc Massif 100 finest routes,” first published in 1973.
“0” means not affected,
“1” indicates only slightly affected and still popular in summer,
“2” indicates routes which have been moderately affected and might not be in condition in the Summer and can be better in Spring or Autumn,
“3” indicates routes that have been seriously affected and not usually feasible in Summer.
“4” indicates routes no longer there!
1 Clocher and Clochetons de Planpraz, Traverse 0
2 Glacier des Bossons, école de glace 4
3 Aiguille de L’Index, SE Ridge 0
4 Chapelle de la Gliere, 0
5 Aiguille de la Persévérance, NE Ridge 0
6 Aiguille de la Pouce, Voie des Dalles 0
7 Amone Slab 0
8 Sarre Roof ?
9 Petits Charmoz, Traverse 2
10 Petite Aiguille Verte, Normal Route 3
11 Tour Ronde Vallee Blanche, SE Ridge 3
12 Aig Croux, S Face Point de L’Innominata, S Ridge 2
13 Domes de Miage, Traverse 3
14 Tour Noir, Traverse 1
15 Aiguille du Tour, Table Ridge 2
16 Aig du Moine, S Ridge 1
17 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Normal route Cosmiques Ridge, Traverse 2,3
18 Aiguille de l’M, NNE Ridge 1
19 Aiguille d’Argentiere, Normal Route 1
20 Pyramide du Tacul, E Ridge 1
21 Midi Plan, Traverse 2
22 Dent du Requin, SE Ridge 2
23 Grandes Jorasses, Normal route 1
24 Mont Blanc, by the Gouter 3
25 Aiguille des Pelerins, Gruter Ridge 1
26 Aiguilles Dorees, Traverse 2
27 Les Escandies, Traverse 1
28 Aiguille du Chardonnet, Forbes Ridge 3
29 Les Courtes, NE face 3
30 Mont Blanc, by the Aiguilles Grises 1
31 Aig du Peigne, Normal Route Aig des Pelerins, Carmichael Route 1,1
32 Grands Charmoz – Grepon, Traverse 3
33 Rochefort Ridge, Traverse Dent du Geant, Normal route 3
34 Aig de Blaitiere – Les Ciseaux – Aig du Fou, Traverse 2
35 Tour Ronde, N face 3
36 Aiguilles de Trelatete, Traverse 2
37 Trident du Tacul, Lepiney route 4
38 Le Courtes -Aig Ravanel – Mummery, Traverse 3
39 Petites Jorasses, S Ridge 2
40 Petit Dru – Grand Dru, Traverse 2
41 Aiguille Verte, Whymper Couloir 3
42 Aiguille Croux, SE Face 1
43 Aiguille Chardonnet, N Spur 2
44 Dent du Requin, E Face 2
45 Mont Dolent, N Ridge 3
46 Aiguille de l’M, Menegaux and Couzy 1
47 Aiguille du Plan, Ryan- Lochmatter Ridge 2
48 Pain du Sucre de Envers du Plan, N Face 3
49 Aig du Bionnassay, NW Face Mont Blanc, Traverse 2
50 Mont Maudit, Kuffner Ridge 3
51 Aiguille du Moine, E face 2
52 Aiguille du Peigne, Papillons ; W Face ; NW Pillar NW Face ; N Ridge 0
53 Point Lachenal, SSE Face Aig du Midi, Cosmiques Spur 1
54 Aig du Diable – Mont Blanc du Tacul, Traverse 1
55 Aiguille du Midi, S Face 1
56 Mont Blanc, Brenva Spur 2
57 Dent du Geant, S Face 1
58 Pic Adolphe Rey, Salluard Route 2
59 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Gervasutti Couloir 3
60 Le Minaret, SE Spur ; S Face direct 1
61 Aiguille du Peigne, Vaucher Route 1
62 Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur 3
63 Petit Clocher du Portalet, E Face and SE Ridge 0
64 Pic du Roc – Grepon, Traverse 1
65 Aiguille d’Argentiere, N Face 3
66 Grandes Jorasses, Hirondelles Ridge 1
67 Aiguille de la Brenva, E Face 1
68 Dent du Crocodile, E Face 2
69 Aiguille du Plan, N Face 2
70 Mont Maudit, Cretier Route 1
71 Aig du Blatiere, N Face 2
72 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Boccalatte Pillar 1
73 Rochefort Ridges – Grandes Jorasses 2
74 Aiguille Verte, Grands Montets Ridge 2
75 Aig Noire du Peuterey, S Ridge 1
76 Les Courtes, Central NNE Spur 3
77 Aguille Verte, Sans Nom Ridge 3
78 Dent du Requin, N Face 3
79 Aiguille Verte, Courtier Couloir 2
80 Petit Dru, N Face 2
81 Mont Blanc, Innominata Ridge 1
82 Les Droites, N Spur 2
83 Aig Noire du Peuterey, W Face 2
84 Chamonix Aiguilles, Midi - Grepon Traverse 3
85 Petites Jorasses, W Face 2
86 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Gervasutti Pillar 2
87 Pointe Gugliermina, SE Face 1
88 Aiguille du Triolet, N Face 3
89 Grand Capucin, E Face 1
90 Mont Blanc, Route Major 2
91 Aiguille Verte, Nant Blanc Face 3
92 Petit Dru, Bonatti Pillar 4
93 Aiguille du Fou, S Face 3
94 Les Courtes, N Face 3
95 Mont Blanc, Peuterey Ridge 2
96 Grandes Jorasses, Point Croz Central Spur 1
97 Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur 2
98 Petit Dru, W face American Direct 2
99 Les Droites, N Face 2
100 Mont Blanc, Central Pillar of Freney 2
Conditions are very much evolving in this period between seasons.
The successive weather fronts have deposited a lot of windblown snow at altitude. The exact amount is difficult to ascertain but was about 40cms above 3500m at the start of the week. The conditions of the mixed climbs are slowly improving, following the exceptionally warm and dry conditions this summer. There is virtually no alpine activity for the moment, given the unstable weather, (some activity on the Cosmiques ridge, Pointes Lachenal traverse and the Entrèves.
Concerning the rock routes, the Chamonix Aiguilles are plastered with snow. If the weather allows, it is possible to climb in the Aiguilles Rouges or on the valley crags.
The hiking trails, resplendent in their autumn colours, are without snow and are feasible.
The Aiguille du Midi and Skyway Monte Bianco cable cars are running until the 3rd November.
The Montenvers train re-opens on the 19th October, (ice cave and cable car remain closed.)
The Planpraz lift will be open from 19th October to 3rd November.
All the mountain huts are closed except for the Plan de l’Aiguille and the Torino, (which both close on the 3rd November.) The CAF mountain huts have winter rooms available.
British Koyo Zom Expedition 2019. 31 August - 10 October. Koyo Zom (6877m), Yarkhun Valley, Hindu Raj, KPK, Pakistan
The call for hosts went out today. Details are enclosed in the following links. There are limited spaces.
We are now well into Autumn and it feels cool in the valley. The last weather front brought snow down to 2200m, with10 to 25cms at altitude in some sectors.
The high rocks are snow covered and patience is needed before the rock routes come back into condition. Concerning the mixed routes, the new snow serves only to hide the dry conditions underneath, so here also patience is needed for conditions to improve.
With the doubtful weather and poor conditions, all the lifts have closed, except for the Aig du Midi and the Skyway Monte Bianco. The huts, (except for of the Torino), are also closed and very little alpinisme is happening for the moment.
However, some routes remain feasible: e.g. the traverse of the Pointes Lachenal, Cosmiques Ridge (retracked this morning, no further info,) Aiguilles d'Entrêves traverse, Dent du Géant, Aiguille du Tour and Grand Paradiso.
At lower altitude, the Petit Charmoz, Ecandies traverse and Perrons traverse are also feasible.
There are no special problems for hiking and rock climbing at mid altitudes, though there is a risk of snow and verglas above 2400m, especially if north facing. The forest paths, particularly those in the shade, can be slippery at this time of the year.
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member Al Avarez on 23rd September, who had been a member since 1986.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
The Trans-Alay Pamirs delineate the southern border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, with the Western Zaalaisky sub-range about 75km west of Peak Lenin.
Andy Stratford led a team including AC member Emily Thompson, along with Steve Graham (AC Membership app recently submitted), Andy Vine, Jared Kitchen, Stuart Hurworth; all six being members of the Karabiner Mountaineering Club which celebrates its 75th anniversary in 2019.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 18/09/2019
Some information for this September, which has had good weather for mid and high mountain activities.
Lift closures:
Charamillon and Autannes lifts (La Tour) open until 22/09
Montenvers train running until 29/09
Aiguille du Midi lift open until 03/11
Bellevue lift and Mont Blanc Tramway open until 22/09
Monte Bianco Skyway (Italy) open until 03/11
Alpine Huts closures:
Cosmiques hut open until 28/09
Plan de l'Aiguille hut open until 03/09
Nid d'Aigle and Tête Rousse huts open until 22/09
Goûter hut open until 29/09
Conscrit hut open until 22/09
Vallée d'Aoste and Valais Hut closures:
Cabane d'Orny open until 29/09
Rifugio Torino open until 03/11
Rifugio Chabod (Grand Paradis) open until 28/09
Rifugio Guide del Cervino
Rifugio Gnifetti (Monte Rosa) open until 06/10
Mid Mountain Hut closures:
Loriaz hut open until 06/10
Pierre à Bérard hut open until 25/09
Lac Blanc hut open until 31/10
Moëde Anterne hut open until 01/10
Col de Balme hut open until 15/09
Miage hut open until 30/09
Varan hut open until 30/09
Tré la Tête hut open until 20/10
Nant Borrant hut open until 25/09
Robert Blanc hut open until 21/09
Alpine Conditions:
Rock routes remain the main activity, with routes being climbed in the Argentière sector, the Leschaux sector (Aiguille de Leschaux, Petites Jorasses), the Envers des Aiguilles, the Aiguilles de Chamonix and the Géant sector (S faces of the Aiguille du Midi, Pointes Lachenal, Satellites du Tacul).
The winter room at the Albert 1er is now accessible. The Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche remain feasible by their normal routes, as is the S ridge of the Purtscheller.
A party turned back while trying to cross the Charpoua glacier, (for the Drus traverse,) despite a full moon and checking out the way the evening before. There are plenty of possibilities to find water near the hut.
In the Talèfre sector, the S ridge and normal route on the Moine are still being done. The bergschrund for the Contamine, (E face) is well opened.
The Moine Ridge on the Aiguille Verte was climbed in good conditions on 13/09, (an abseil needed to cross the bergschrund in descent.)
The Valley Blanche traverse can be done but the way is complicated, (end of season conditions!)
The traverses of the Pointes Lachenal, Aiguilles d'Entrèves, the Marbrées (abseil points re-equipped; 3x20m) and the Dent du Géant are being done. No recent information for the Rochefort Arete, which does not look to be in condition. The Cosmiques Ridge is being climbed again, (potentially unstable, as are other sectors.)
A ramp, to the right of the fixed rope, allows the bergschrund on the Mont Blanc du Tacul normal route to be crossed easily. After this there is good track with steps up to the summit. Take care; a portion of the serac overshadowing the track looks ready to collapse. Remember that falling seracs are an objective danger on this route, (as they are also on the Mont Maudit, for example.)
Experienced, well equipped alpinists, (2 ice axes, ice screws etc,) could attempt the 3 Monts route. The Col du Mont Maudit is bare ice but there are no special problems for the traverse to the col de la Brenva or on the Mur de la Côte.
Conditions are also OK for the Mont Blanc normal route, (by the Goûter.) However, it is necessary to be aware of the crevasses between the hut and the Dôme du Goûter (especially while descending when there is a temptation to take “short cuts”,) and on the Bosses ridge.
A few parties are still doing the Bionnassay traverse. It is more technically difficult than usual, (the initial rock buttress is very dry, there is ice below the summit and the ridge is very thin with ice showing through in places. However, there is no cornice.)
The Dômes de Miage are not in condition, parties are generally stopping at the col.
For the Grand Paradiso (via Chabod), the Laveciau glacier is chaotic, with numerous crevasses. There are 2 ladders in place and there are some ”jumps” to make.
Conditions are good for the Matterhorn by the Lion Ridge, (the hut is closed on the Swiss side).
Mountaineering Scotland have announced that they will be hosting the 2020 International Scottish Winter Meet.
The meet has been running since 1997 and was last held in 2016. The event has attracted climbers from all over the world eager to experience the unique Scottish winter experience. Overseas guests will paired up with experienced UK-based hosts – an excellent tried and tested formula that has proved to be very successful. In return for sharing their local knowledge and expertise, UK climbers gain a wider perspective by climbing with their (sometimes very accomplished) international visitors. In previous years several hosts and guests have formed strong partnerships that have gone on to make major ascents further afield and in the Greater Ranges. This is not an elitist event however, and will be open to a cross-section of climbers and abilities.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 09/09/19
A quick update after the weekend of rain and snow
For the hikers: There is snow starting at 2000m. The paths have a light covering which will gently disappear. The hunting season has started. There is no hunting allowed on Wednesdays and Fridays, (except bank holidays.)
For the climbers: The Aiguilles de Chamonix are plastered and feeling very cold. Patience is needed for the rock to dry. Likewise, for the Aiguilles Rouges, though the climbs here should come back into condition more quickly.
For the alpinists:
This morning, Monday the following was reported : 10 cm with a little bit of wind at the Albert 1er hut (the telephone is working again),), 20 cm at the Envers des Aiguilles hut, 30 cm at the Cosmiques hut with a W wind and -10°C this morning, 15/20 cm at the Goûter hut, the snow is down to the Tête Rousse, 15 cm at the Conscrits hut with not much wind.
The following closing dates have been announced:
The lifts at Le Tour close on 22/09, the Leschaux hut closes on 15/09, the Requin hut closes on 12/09, the Envers des Aiguilles hut closes on 14/09, the Conscrits hut closes on 22/09 and the Cosmiques hut closes on 28/09. The Mottets cafe closes on 28/09.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 29/08/2019
The update for the end of August.
The conditions have not changed much recently.
Tour Sector
The Aiguille du Tour is still being done but the conditions are very dry and not suitable for beginners. The Col Supérieur du Tour is not recommended, the Col du Tour being the preferred option. The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche remain feasible.
Argentière Sector
The Argentière hut and the Plan Joran lift close on the 31st August. This means a long approach to the beautiful granite climbs in this sector.
Charpoua Sector
The hut here also closes on the 31st August, (the warden has left some gas.) The glacier (for the Drus traverse, Contamine route) is becoming more and more complicated. In descent, the parties do not pass back behind the Gros Rognon to join the ascent track.
Talèfre Sector
All the bergschrunds here are starting to open up and are becoming more awkward. Some ingenuity is needed, especially for the Contamine route on the Moine.
For the Moine Ridge on the Verte, the bergschrund goes on the true left.
Leschaux Sector
Latest information here: ici !
Envers des Aiguilles Sector
No major problems for the approaches to the Tour Rouge, Tour Verte, Nantillons and Aiguille de Roc.
For the normal route on the République, please see the previous updates.
Subtilités Dulfériennes has become more awkward, one needs to descend into the bergschrund to reach the ramp.
Aiguille du Midi Sector
The Three Monts route remains possible for experienced alpinists.
Pointes Lachenal traverse: the snow last week has stuck to the ice, making conditions temporarily better.
The traverse of the Valléé Blanche is still being done but route finding through the crevasses is difficult.
It is still possible to cross the bergschrunds below the climbs in this sector: (Aiguille du Midi - Pointe Lachenal - Satellites).
Mont Blanc by the Gouter
The conditions are normal and OK. The Grand Couloir and the way up to the hut are dry but the stonefall is no worse than usual. There is no ice on the ridge.
Miage - Bionnassay Sector
The conditions remain technically difficult, (ice, crevasses,) for the Domes de Miage, there and back, from the Col des Dômes.
The Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back from the hut, is completely dry.
The traverse across to the Durier hut is very dry, with holds coming away in your hand. It is best to reach the hut via the Plan Glacier. The glacier is still OK in the upper part, (pass below the red marker,) providing that it is early in the day.
The traverse of the Bionnassay remains feasible. The passage before the buttress is awkward, (very dry). There is some ice just below the summit, (which is bypassed on the left,) and at the start of the NE ridge, (good crampon technique needed).
Helbronner Sector
The main activity here is the traverse of the Aiguilles d'Entrèves.
The approach to the Salle Manger, (Dent du Geant) remains very dry. Take care to stick to the route and be aware of other parties.
Traverse and normal route on the Grandes Jorasses
It is end of season conditions for the Rochefort Arete (ice, gravel). The traverse of the Grandes Jorasses is feasible, (given that the Pointe Young is done in the afternoon.)
It is over for the normal route this summer. The conditions have got a lot worse.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 22/08/2019
30cms of snow fell at the Aig du Midi during the bad weather on Tuesday, with fresh snow down to 3500m.
The snow fall, together with the strong winds, has formed some weak snow bridges making certain crevasses treacherous.
Concerning the snow or mixed routes, the new snow has concealed some of the problems caused by the ice or rock exposed by the dry conditions. However, it has improved the situation for some passages, albeit only temporarily.
Concerning the rock routes at altitude, the rock may be snow plastered, (with snow/ice in the cracks,) or verglaced. The foreseen rise in temperatures will rapidly dry the routes, depending upon orientation. The south facing routes are already being done
The 2 routes up Mont Blanc, via the Gouter and the 3 Monts, have been re-tracked, as has the Aig de Bionnassay traverse.
News has reached us of the death on 19th July after a severe stroke of long standing member Robin Richards. A memorial service was held recently.
Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 16/08/2019
A quick update for the weekend. There has been little change since the last update. Given that with the temperatures are now typical for the time of year and there is good re-freezing at night, the conditions have remained stable.
Aiguille du Tour sector: the Col Supérieur du Tour is still passable. It has been reported that he fixed rope here is badly damaged and should not be used.
The Drus traverse remains feasible. Some parties went for the Aiguille Verte by the Moine Ridge today, (Friday) but no feedback yet on conditions and especially for the bergschrund, (more info Saturday !!!)
For the Leschaux sector: " the approaches to the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses are in good condition. There have not been any parties on the Grandes Jorasses for 10 days. There is snow on the face above about 3800m....".
The Three Monts route up Mont Blanc remains committing and technical with, as usual, sections exposed to serac fall. The Tacul bergschrund is awkward, there is ice on Col du Mont Maudit, and icy snow on the Mur de la Côte.
The crevasses on the Miage glacier, (approach to the Durier from Plan Glacier,) are opening up but passable if there is a good freeze. The recent snowfall has improved conditions for the Bionnassay traverse. There is no longer any ice below the summit or on the ridge, (which remains narrow and airy).
The Trè la Tête glacier has lots of crevasses but is still OK. On the Miage, the majority of the parties are stopping at the Col des Dômes. The slope up to the 3rd Dôme is ice and there is ice between this and the 2nd Dôme. The Col de la Bérangère is no longer feasible.
The Gonella hut closes this weekend. The conditions have deteriorated. There are lots of crevasses open on the glacier, with ice and stonefall below the Col des Aiguilles Grises.
Monzino sector: there has been no improvement at altitude. A via ferrata has recently been constructed at the level of the Col Chasseur. It provides a link between the Monzino hut and the Borelli bivouac, giving a pleasant 2 day tour. (Information in Italian here: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=2708609995839249&id=104501702916771&__tn__=K-R ) As well as the usual via ferrata equipment, ice axe and crampons are also advisable.
For the Aiguilles Marbrées traverse, there has been a rockfall in the sector of the descent. It is now probably best done there and back from the Col de Rochefort.
Ice has been reported for the Vierge / Petit Flambeau.
Ice is beginning to appear on the Rochefort Ridge. There are still some parties doing the Jorasses traverse. (The OHM route book has recent info, cahier de courses).
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 08/08/2019
ThTThThe first update fror August
The first update for this August. There has been little change for the high mountain since the last report of 31st July.
During the bad weather on Wednesday, it rained up to 4000m, with just a little snow settling above that. For several years now, rain at this altitude is no longer considered to be exceptional.
The rocks will dry quickly but there is little hope that the snow or mixed routes will come into condition. Be aware of the risk of verglas on the northern faces or on certain snow slopes.
Care is also needed with the choice of routes. A passage of warm weather, with the isotherm around 4500m and strong winds, is forecast for Friday and Saturday.
Tour Sector
The Col Supérieur du Tour is still feasible, (avoid the ice which has several unstable boulders on it.) The bergschrund on the normal route for the Aiguille du Tour can still be crossed. Parties are still doing the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche. The Table Ridge remains feasible, (care needed between the lower part of the gully and the ridge.)
Argentière Sector
The Glacier du Milieu is no longer practicable in ascent (ice). It is possible for experienced parties to descend it, e.g. from the Jardin Ridge. (This involves abseilling a combination of two routes bolted in 2018, "Par des Anges" then "Spigolo": chain belays, 50m abseils.) More information at the hut.
Nothing special to report for the rock routes.
Charpoua Sector
The traverse of the Drus remains in condition. It is strongly recommended to check out the glacier approach the evening before.
Talèfre Sector
The information below is taken directly from the hut’s Facebook page.
"Concerning the rock routes, conditions are good. The bergschrunds are beginning to open slightly but remain OK for the Moine, Nonne, l'Evêque and the Point de Pierre à Joseph.
The Moine Ridge on the Verte is still being done. However, the bergschrund is widening. The lower part is dry but there is still snow on the ridge.
Nobody has done the Droites recently. The S face and the diagonal gully are very dry.
There is still snow up to the Col des Droites to reach the Courtes, despite a lot of snow sluffs off the Droites S face. Nobody is doing the traverse of the Courtes for the moment, the ridge after the summit is dry. Snow remains on the descent from the Col des Cristaux.
The Pointe Isabelle is still feasible though the bergschrund before the ridge is now quite wide. Some ice is starting to show through before arriving at the summit plateau.”
Leschaux Sector
There was a major rock fall on 4/8 on the lower part of the Walker Spur, Cassin Route, (Rebuffat Diedre.) With the verglas and the small amount of fresh snow, it would be wise to avoid this route for the moment.
The rock routes should dry very quickly.
Envers des Aiguilles
Here also there has been little change. The direct start to California Dream is no longer feasible. One needs to start by a ramp on the right.
For the descent from the Grepon, it is best to abseil down the West face, (from the "CP") then cross the glacier to the rognon.
Plan de l'Aiguille
Crampons are advisable for the snow on the approach to the Contamine Vaucher (Gendarme Rouge du Peigne). They can also be useful to reach the normal route on the Peigne (and the Minettes Spur), where despite a good track, the icy snow in the morning can be awkward.
Aiguille du Midi Sector
It rained all day and night at the hut, (Wednesday). Be aware of verglaced snow on the faces!
The Trois Monts route is, therefore, awkward and much more technical than usual. The Tacul bergschrund is overhanging and strenuous, (3m; 2 technical ice axes useful.) The same is true for the Col du Mont Maudit, (some ice, the fixed ropes are frozen into the snow/ice and not usable.)
The seracs, (Tacul summit and the lower part of Mont Maudit,) are still there!
No reports about the bergschrunds for the rock routes, (S Face of the Aiguille du Midi, Pointes Lachenal etc). No news is good news?
Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets.
The hut is closed for the season. It opens again in Spring 2020.
Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter
The route has been affected by the recent rain and snow mix. The amount of fresh snow is negligible. The summit was re-tracked on Thursday. The rain, together with the wind, has coated the snow with ice. Good cramponning skills are essential.
Conditions are typical for the time of year: The Grand Couloir is dry, (the stonefall no worse than usual) The Bosses ridge is in good condition.
Miage / Bionnassay Sector
The Mont Tondu is still being done, weaving between the ice sections, even though it does not look that attractive.
The Dômes de Miage, there and back, remains feasible, though the ridge appears to be coming more awkward, (narrow and icy.)
Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back: nothing special to report, there is still some snow at the foot, otherwise completely dry.
The warden is going back up to the Durier hut today, (Thursday.) There should be a report soon for the Aiguille de Bionnassay assuming a break in the wind allows the parties foreseen for tomorrow, (Friday) to summit.
Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises
Little change, the glacier is OK but the exit on the ridge is awkward.
Monzino / Helbronner / Grandes Jorasses
Little change since the last update.
The Tacul bergschrund is awkward.
The Traverse of the Jorasses: Be aware of verglas (especially at the Pointe Young). It is perhaps better to not stop at the Canzio but to climb this section in the afternoon and then bivvy on the summit of the Pointe Margherite.
The recent rock fall under the Canzio has not affected the belays. However, there is a risk of stone fall. This abseil line should only be used in emergency.
Grande Jorasses normal route: some crevasses have opened below the Reposoir. The bergschrund above is open but can be crossed. There is no ice on the route. Take care on the final summit slope, it is not steep, but rock is rotten.
Back in July, 66 women from all over Britain and Europe gathered in Langdale to meet with old and new friends and climb together in the heart of the Lake District. The 9 day meet of the Rendez-vous Hautes Montagnes got off to a great start with the evening reception on 13th July and the weather for the first four and a half days was fine and dry. Climbers visited many of the crags throughout Langdale during this early period, with climbs made on the valley's lower crags and higher crags including Dow, Pavey Arc and Gimmer.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 31/07/2019
Some information for mountain activities
For hikers, there is no longer any snow at the Col de la Glière. There are still some snow patches near the Col de Salenton on the way up the Buet.
There are also still some snow patches in the Emosson area: There is snow after crossing the dam and at the level of the Col du Vieux. However, there is a good track. Elsewhere the snow patches are small and easily bypassed. The Cheval Blanc and Veudale Gorge are OK. Near the dinosaur prints the snow bridges are to be avoided, some of which have signs.
Tour Sector
No major changes for this sector. The crevasses are beginning to open, but not yet posing a problem. The night-time freezing is OK for the moment, given the clear skies.
The Aiguille du Tour by the col supérieur du Tour and the normal route on the Tête Blanche are in condition. There is some bare ice above the Col Blanc and the ridge is dry, (Petite Fourche normal route).
No problems for the S ridge of the Aiguille Pusrtcheller.
A party did the Forbes Ridge on 30/07 but it is very (too) dry.
There is a wide bergschrund on the Trient side of the Col Blanc. The Dorées traverse is best done East to West. (The descent from the Aiguille de la Varappe is awkward in the other direction.)
Argentière Sector
Hut approach: no problems from Plan Joran and for the ladders, hand line in place.
The Flêche Rousse is no longer in condition. There no problem with the bergschrund for the Aiguille d'Argentière by the glacier du Milieu but there is an awkward pitch on rock just above. The next warm period will probably put the route finally out of condition
The Jardin ridge remains in condition. (Once the descent by the Glacier du Milieu is no longer practical, it will be necessary to abseil down the S pillar and the “Pirate” route.)
Rock routes: no problems reported.
Charpoua
The Drus traverse is in good condition. No problems on the glacier, no stone fall reported for the moment.
Rock routes: no problems reported.
Talèfre Sector
The Pointe Isabelle (bare ice on the summit slope,) and the normal route on the Courtes are feasible, given a good night-time freeze.
No recent news, (but expected soon!!) for the bergshrund on the Moine ridge on the Verte.
No problems for the rock routes, (Moine, Nonne, Évêque).
Leschaux Sector
Following the bad weather at the weekend, the N face of the Grandes Jorasses has a dusting of fresh snow. Some parties on the Walker today, (Wednesday.) The upper part looks to give mixed climbing.
The snow/glacier approach to the West face of the Petites Jorasses is OK.
Rock routes: no problems reported.
Nobody for the moment on the Périades but the Mont Mallet glacier is likely to be complicated.
Envers des Aiguilles / Requin
A fixed rope is in place at the bergschrund for the République/Grépon Mer de Glace. There is quite a lot of bare ice on the descent of the Nantillons glacier but it is still OK.
No major problems reported for the bergshrunds in this sector, (Subitlités Dulfériennes...). No recent information for the 3rd Pointe des Nantillons.
The approaches to the Dent du Requin and the Pierre à Alain are OK.
The Valley Blanche is being ascended regularly.
Aiguille du Midi Sector
There have been problems with the phone at the Cosmiques hut. You need to keep trying.
Mont Blanc by the Trois Monts: there is a potentially unstable serac directly above the track leading to the Tacul summit and another affecting the traverse beneath Mont Maudit. Serac collapse is a known objective danger for this route. It is up to each individual to decide if they accept the danger or not. It is possible to see the latest image of the N face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul on the webcam for the Aiguille du Midi. The lower bergschrund is opening up and the is no equipment in place. The leader should foresee taking two ice axes.
Since some time, the Cosmiques Ridge has become unstable. This includes the N side and therefore, is best avoided. The Pointes Lachenal traverse is very, very dry
There was a party on the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07. The approach is very (too?) dry.
Rock routes: no problems with the bergschrunds reported.
Grands Mulets
The hut closes on Thursday, 1st August. The 250m section of ice on the N ridge of the Dôme is covered with snow for the moment. There have been no recent ascents of this route.
Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter
The Grand Couloir is in “normal” condition, i.e. dry with not too much stonefall in the morning.
The latest information indicates that the Bosses ridge will soon have sections of bare ice.
Durier / Conscrits
The Durier hut approach from Plan Glacier, including the small glacier, is OK.
The Bionnassay ridge has been re-tracked, (still on snow and very narrow). There is a thin layer of fresh snow covering the ice section below the summit for the moment. The ridge remains a snow knife edge.
There is stone fall risk and ice on the descent towards the Col de la Bérangère. Therefore, the Dômes de Miage traverse is best done there and back from the Col des Dômes. The classic traverse is still feasible for parties of two experienced alpinists. The Mont Tondu is not in great condition but remains feasible, (some ice sections are not steep and others are avoidable.)
Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises
The glacier is OK, the exit on to the ridge is sketchy, (ice).
Monzino
The rock routes on the Aiguille Croux and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey seem to be the only options in this sector for the moment.
The approach to the Eccles bivouac is still OK by the glacier but the whole side of the mountain here is subject to numerous stone falls and rock collapses. All recent parties have turned back. On the Red Brouillard Pillars, only the Gabarrou-Long and the Anneaux Magiques could be accessible, for those that really want to…
Helbronner Sector
Here also everything is very dry. The traverse of the Entrêves or the Marbrées. are still possible. The approach to the Salle à Manger, (Dent du Geant,) continues to get worse, (a lot of rockfall this summer.)
A party did the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07. The approach is very, (too?) dry. The Kuffner Ridge is also not in condition.
The Jorasses traverse remains feasible, descending by the normal route, (still OK on 30/07). The abseils on the Italian side from the Canzio bivouac have been affected by a rockfall on 24/07.
No problems with the bergschrunds reported for the Satellites.
