After two successful winter trips to the Tatra Mountains, I would like to invite the Alpine Club members to visit those small but interesting mountains once again in 2020. However, this time I would like to make a slight change to the character and objective of the meet…
Some information for this weekend:
Following on from the recent Foehn winds there was fresh snow down to the valley floor last night, (Thursday). On Friday morning there was :
- 20 cm at the Grands Mulets hut (wind affected)
- between 30 and 60 cms of accumulated snow at the Cosmiques hut
- 20-30 cm at the Plan de l'Aiguille
- 25 cm at the Argentière hut
The weekend’s forecast is for wet weather, including the possibility of more snow.
The snow is melting quickly low down but remains above 1500m (south facing and 1700m, (north facing.)
Most of the lifts are now closed, (Les Houches, Brévent, Flégère, Balme-Vallorcine). Only the Grands-Montets (closed on 2nd +3rd May and then closes definitively on the 5th,) the Aig du Midi, Montenvers and the Skyway MonteBianco, (Italy) remain open.
Ski touring is accessible in the Argentière sector from Grands Montets, for example : Col du Passon to La Tour, Col du Chardonnet, Aiguille d'Argentière via the Glacier du Milieu (more information in the OHM route book), Col du Tour Noir, Col d’Argentière. Concerning the N faces, only the Col des Cristaux and the NE face of the Courtes. (large bergschrund) are skiable, though not from the summit.
The Valley Blanche and the Brèche Puiseux remain feasible, (the descent ridge from the Aig du Midi is still equipped.) Be aware of crevasses concealed by the recent snow and snow bridges weakened by the recent warm winds. It is still possible to ski almost to the foot of the stairs leading to the Montenvers (ice cave) lift.
As far as Mont Blanc is concerned, the Three Monts route is not yet OK, (avalanche risk and Mont Maudit is not in condition.) The N ridge of the Dome du Gouter is also not in condition, (ice.) The Plateaux route is the most feasible option. Skiing the N face by the usual ramp is not possible, instead take the true left side, (40m wall of ice, for excellent skiers only.) N.B: the Foehn wind together with the recent snowfall means there is a significant avalanche risk.
No major changes for the Tour, Talèfre and Dômes de Miage sectors since the last update of16th April.
Some suggestions for ski tours which remain feasible and do not involve glaciers:
- Col de l'Encrenaz from (just below) the Col des Montets
- Bérard Valley (Beaugeant, Bérard, Salenton Cols and Mont Buet) from Le Buet (Walking for 15 mins to the Cascade buvette plus some walking sections after that.)
- Col de la Terrasse/ Cheval Blanc from the Emosson dam road, (closed still, some walking involved.)
For those still wanting to snowshoe, a possibility is to ascend the closed La Tour pistes to the Col du Balme and/or the Aiguillette des Posettes.
Spring has very much arrived in the valley and the trees are beginning to blossom. However, appearances can be deceptive, many of the hiking trails are not yet in condition.
Some suggestions for hikers are, (suitable footwear and poles needed for the higher paths) :
- Chalets d’Ayères from Servoz or Plaine Joux
- Chalet de Chailloux, there and back, from Flatière or Merlet
- Chalet du Cerro and its viewpoint
- Petit Balcon Sud : Gaillands - Les Praz / Les Tines.
- Petit Balcon Nord between Chamonix and Argentière
- Chalet de la Floria, there and back, from Chamonix or Les Praz only (path free of snow).
- Chalet du Chapeau from Les Praz – Les Tines – Le Lavancher, there and back.
- Buvette des Mottets from Les Bois (Filia path) or Les Planards (do not take the path for Montenvers via Caillet)
- Chalets de Loriaz
Check the feasibility of the paths at the Office de Haute Montagne and also for paths closed by council order, (arrêtés de fermetures .)
Information for the high and mid mountain during the Easter holidays:
Some of the ski areas are already closed (Les Houches, La Flégère, Vallorcine, Megève, Saint Gervais).
Areas still open are Balme/Le Tour, Brévent, Contamines (until 22/04) and Argentière/Lognan (until 01/05 then the weekend 4/5 May). The Aiguille du Midi cable car and the Montenvers train remain open. More information on the CMB website.
Tour / Trient Sector
Not much has changed since the last update. Access is either by the Balme chairlift and the Col des Autannes or from Lognan and the Col du Passon.
A bit of walking is necessary to reach Trient village. All the cols are being done and are in condition. The Couloir de la Table is tracked, (the gully in the lower band is OK), as is normal route on the Aig du Tour, (by the E ridge and the col between the two summits.) A party has done the Table ridge.
Some parties have traversed the Chardonnet, (up by the SE couloir and descent by the normal route.)
It is still just possible to ski all the way to La Tour, but expect some walking at the boardercross area soon.
Argentière Sector
Depending on the chosen route one can get onto the Argentiere glacier by the return route (Passon, Chardonnet) or by the Col des Rachasses (Glacier du Milieu, Argentière hut, Col du Tour Noir etc).
- The Lognan hut closed on the 14 April.
- The N faces are not in condition (1 party on the Couturier and the Courtes NE 15/04)
- Col des Cristaux is in good condition, cramponning for the last 150m.
- The gullies are not formed, (not enough ice etc.)
- Cols d'Argentière/ Tour Noir/ Passon are OK.
- The Flèche Rousse ridge in good condition.
- The “Y” Couloir: bergschrund OK then a pitch to overcome the lower band, (ice on rock, 2 axes useful.)
- Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu: good ski conditions up to the bergschrund, ski depot. then cramponning to the summit and back.
- Col du Chardonnet: rock hard snow in the couloir on the Saleina side. More information in the OHM route book.
Talèfre Sector
Little change here, one can find the latest information in the hut blog.
Aiguille du Midi / Helbronner Sector
Due to the dry conditions there has not been much ice climbing, (Chéré and Contamine-Grisolle on the Triangle du Tacul, Gabarrou-Albinoni and Pas d'Agonie 1 have been done).
It is forbidden by a council order to enter the Glacier Rond area from 17th to 20th April due to work there on a pylon.
The Valley Blanche, Brèche Puiseux and Capucin couloir are still being skied.
The normal route on the Tacul was tracked on skis the 13/04 exitting by the Shoulder. The old ladder has been repositioned in order to cross the impressive bergshrund.
The Cosmiques ridge is in condition for the moment. The rockfall area before the abseil is delicate but has a fixed rope for security. A 40m or 50m ripe suffices for the abseil.
Pointes Lachenal are still bare ice.
The Mallory on the Aig du Midi N face is tracked in ascent.
Rochefort Ridge was done on 13/04 in good conditions. The party turned back below the Aiguille due to snow on the slabs.
Mont Blanc
Approach to the Grands Mulets hut: The best option is probably to start from the Plan de l'Aiguille. (Rock hard snow in the Cosmiques couloir and Glacier Rond, also they are forbidden until 19/04, see above). Take the lower path, (as shown on the IGN map) to cross the Jonction. The higher path leads to an impassable crevasse.
Higher up conditions remain complicated. The N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is bare ice for 250m, (foresee 2 axes + ice screws for 50m pitches.). This makes progress very slow and has been enough to deter most parties attempting this way to the summit.
A party climbed Mont Maudit in bad conditions (“rock hard snow”) but no further information.
The remaining way to summit Mont Blanc is to ascend by the Plateaux, (good track keeping as far left as possible.) This route is exposed to serac fall. The decision to risk it or not is entirely up to the individual!
The N face is not in condition for the moment, ski depot at the Vallot.
Two skiers descended by the Corridor, (a rope was used to pass an ice cliff and at the bergschrund).
It is best to descend by the Para, (30mins of walking at the end to the tunnel) or to traverse to the Plan station. It is not advisable to descend the Bossons glacier; bad conditions in the gully above the Plateau des Pyramides on the left bank, rotten snow on the right bank, (15/20 minutes of walking.)
Miage Sector
Little has changed since the last update.
For the hut approach one needs to carry the skis as far as Nant du Tour, (circa 1 hour).
In general, very good conditions for the Miage traverse, (no ice) and for the descent of the Armancette (15 min of walking above the lake then skiing again down to 1700m.)
Mont Tondu is in good condition.
SW Couloir of the Aiguille de la Bérangère has been skied in good conditions.
There has been nobody on the N faces, which are bare ice, the foehn wind of 15/04 having stripped away the snow.
Hiking
It is necessary to remain at the lower altitudes. Higher up there is a serious risk of falling.
Some examples of feasible hikes are:
- Lac Vert from La Côte (Servoz)
- Chailloux chalet from Le Bettey
- Petit Balcon Sud and the Floria chalet
- Chapeau chalet
- Loriaz chalets from Couteray, Vallorcine, (higher up snowshoes useful.)
Due to work replacing the Flegere cable car, access to this sector, including the way to Lac Blanc, is blocked this year. Lac Blanc remains accessible from the Col des Montets. The paths leading up to Flégère have been closed by order of the council.
The Curala via ferrata (Plateau d’Assy) opened on the 15th April. The Gorges de Bonnant (Saint Gervais) opened on the 10/04, starting from the 2nd escape, known as "Maurice Lenoir".
Tour / Trient Sector
The descents down to Trient are in good condition (the snow being firstly frozen then crusty then spring snow). It is possible to ski all the way to the ski du fond pistes, (then a further 15 minutes of walking to reach the village).
The Col du Pissoir is good (no ice), as is the Col Supérieur du Tour (hard snow but a good track, carrying the skis for the last 5m.) The Col du Midi des Grands was very dry but should have improved with the latest snowfall.
No information for the normal route on the Aiiguille du Tour which should now be in good condition. The lower part of the Table Couloir is very dry, (a rocky narrow passage of 15/20m) but the upper part has plenty of snow, feasible in ascent.
It is still possible to ski all the way down to La Tour.
Argentière Sector (5 cm of fresh snow this morning, Thursday).
Average amount of snow for the time of year, (crusty).
On the Aiguille d’Argentière, the Glacier du Milieu (the top slope not skiable in descent), and the Y Couloir, (bergschrund and lower band OK) are being done
Nobody on the N faces, except for the Col des Cristaux.
Ski tourers on all the usual cols, (Passon, Chardonnet, Tour Noir, Argentière).
The return by the true left bank of the Argentière glacier remains good.
Talèfre Sector
To reach the Couvercle hut, it is better to use the central couloir, (one passage to walk,) rather than the Pierre à Béranger (feasible if very early.)
There has been nobody on the Whymper since the last snowfall, (party foreseen for Friday12/04). The way across the bergschrund, which had collapsed, looks to have filled in again and is should go on the true right.
The south facing slopes are in good condition, (e.g. col des Droites). The snow is crustier on other aspects.
The Pointe Isabelle is in condition this year (glacier OK, skin up to the shoulder then mixed climbing up the ridge to the summit.)
Aiguille du Midi Sector (4 cm of fresh snow this morning, Thursday)
The Valley Blanche is still in reasonably good condition Some treacherous crevasses in the cwm before the Requin hut and on the traverse to the Salle à Manger. The snow quality is variable, with the crusty snow on the slopes exposed to the sun, (e.g. Grand, Moyen & Petit Envers). The classic route has better conditions.
The Cosmiques couloir (60m abseil then hard snow for 200 m) and the Rond glacier (rope useful at the start) are being done daily, (30 minutes of walking from the old station passing by La Para).
The Cosmiques Ridge is now tracked. The left summit of the Pointe Lachenal is also being done, (no further information.)
The Chéré couloir is popular, though fairly dry and more technical than usual, (black ice above the bergschrund, pitch 2 dry: gravel, rock.) The same is true for the Modica Noury and Gabarrou Albinoni (some belay bolts have been replaced.)
For the moment, the normal route on the Tacul does not look to be in condition, (large bergschrund and threatening seracs.)
Helbronner Sector
The traverses of the Aiguilles Marbrées and the Aiguille d'Entrêves are very popular
For the Tour Ronde, it is still necessary to go via the Col Freshfield. The Gervasutti couloir is being done. No news for the N face which looks to be feasible.
The rocks on the Dent du Géant are covered in snow. Before this last snowfall, the Aiguille de Rochefort was tracked and in good condition.
Goulotte Valeria (Petit Capucin) was done on 10/04, conditions very dry!
Mont Blanc by the Grands-Mulets
The glacier approach is well filled in. The Jonction goes by the lower track, (as shown on the IGN map.)
Mont Blanc was done on 09/04 by the Plateaux. Conditions on the N du Dôme ridge have improved but there is still ice just below a layer of fresh snow. The Bosses ridge is OK, (avoiding the ice with short detours). The N face has been skied on the true left, (good skiers only; 5m of ice in the funnel, rope useful).
Dômes de Miage Sector
Generally good conditions in this sector except for the N faces, (they are holding some snow but not yet enough to fully cover the ice.) About 12cms of snow fell on Wednesday.
It is still possible to start skinning from Plan (30 minutes of walking then again for some short sections.) However, the snow is rapidly melting up as far as Nant du Tour.
Very good conditions for the Dômes de Miage traverse. There are some, avoidable, ice sections to reach the ridge and on the descent to the Col de la Bérangère. The ridge is snow.
Good skiing on the Armancette, walking for 15 minutes above the lake then possible to ski again almost to La Frasse.
Aiguilles Rouges
Pleasant ski touring on all the classics, (variable snow quality). Still possible to ski down the Berard valley all the way to Buet. Some ski carrying is needed for Loriaz, Bel Oiseau and Pointe Ronde.
Grands Paradis
The recent snowfalls have improved conditions though the snow cover is still poor, expect to carry skis at the start.
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Alan Pope.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
News has reached us of the death of our Longstanding member George Rhodes, who died aged 90 on 29th March.
The funeral was held at St Lawrence’s Church, Congleton Road, Biddulph on 12th April.
Members can add tributes by logging in to Alpinet or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..
As Spring arrives the snow is disappearing in the valley up to 1500m on the S slopes and 1200m on the N slopes. There is still plenty of snow in the mid altitudes. The snow quality varies with the aspect. It is still possible to find some powder, (albeit rare,) in some N facing, wind protected pockets. On the other hand, the snow is likely to be very hard in the morning on those S facing slopes exposed to the wind. The snow softens quickly with the sun and the large, daily range of temperatures at all altitudes.
The conditions are like those reported on 21st March, with the following extra information:
Valley Blanche
Still in generally good condition, though some treacherous crevasses are beginning to appear. There snow is starting to disappear on the descent down to Chamonix meaning several ski carrying sections and a 30 minute walk at the end.
Torino Sector
Parties on the Aig Entrèves et Marbrées traverses: overall good conditions.
Aiguilles Rouges
The Bérard valley still OK, (need to carry the skis at the little wooden walkway near the Cascade.)
The Loriaz hut shuts on Sunday evening 31 March.
Mont-Blanc
Grands Mulets route: The Grands Mulets hut is open. Good snow cover to reach the hut. The north ridge of the Dôme is difficult (200 m of bare ice); needs to be pitched. Serac collapse risk at the level of the Petit Plateau. Also take care of the seracs on the true right bank of the Grandes Montées (between the Petit et Grand Plateau). The N face is not appealing due to dry conditions and the effects of the strong winds this winter. The route being used for the summit is there and back via the col du Dôme. Steel crampons are strongly recommended. (ice below the Vallot)
Goûter route: Some parties on this route, no further information.
3 Monts route: The route does not look to be in condition and is not being done; impressive bergschrunds on the Tacul and Maudit.
Argentière Sector
The Bochard lift is still closed, (hopefully it will open next weekend.)
Glacier du Milieu: Near the summit take care, the ice is just below a thin snow cover.
The rock routes behind the hut are dry.
Albert 1er Sector
The hut opens this week, (no warden on Wednesday or Thursday.)
Couvercle Sector
The hut opens this weekend.
Leschaux Sector
Couloir SW de l'Eboulement (26/03): Crossing the bergschrund went OK but the party turned back because the couloir was not in condition for skiing., (narrow, icy).
Conscrits Sector
An hour of carrying the skis at the start of the hut approach. The traverse of the Dômes de Miage is overall in good condition. There is a track on the ridge, but some short sections of ice require good crampons. The Armancette glacier is in condition, (the snow runs out just above the lake but then it is possible to ski again shortly afterwards, almost down to La Frasse).
The Bérangère, Pain de Sucre, Col des Glaciers are being done.
The Drus (23/24/03)
N Face – Lesueur route: OK dry tooling – not much snow – start by the Alain Leninger route then the classic. Descend by the North Couloir on abalakovs and in-situ abseil points on the route.
Thank you to all those who posted their information in the online Route Book.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 21/03/2019
The weather has improved this week allowing for an increase in activity in the mountains, especially ski touring. In general, the snow cover is good up to 3500m, (with powder on the north facing slopes,). Above this, conditions remain dry for both the mixed climbs and the high mountain routes e.g. Mont Blanc.
All the classic ski routes are tracked and in good condition.
Tour/Trient Sector
The climb up to the Col des Autannes and the descent to Trient is OK.
Col du Passon is tracked, with good conditions for the descent to Le Tour. The Albert 1er hut opens this weekend.
Argentière Sector
The N faces remain very dry. Due to the progressive melting of the Verte summit ice cap, the Couturier couloir is now threatened by a serac. Also, there is a crevasse that is very difficult to cross. It has not been tracked and is not really to be recommended. If attempted, then the “classic” exit straight up would appear to be the best option.
There has been no activity on the Droites or both the N face and NE of the Courtes. For the latter, the latest information is that the bergschrund is awkward but does go on the left, and the snow is rock hard on the upper part.
The Col des Cristaux was skied in good snow, (the top 60m being dry, need to abseil or down climb.)
A track on the SW couloir of the Amône, no further information.
The Cols d'Argentière and Tour Noir are in good condition. Take ski crampons as the snow is icy in some sections.
Aiguille d'Argentière: The “Y” couloir is in good condition, (bergschrund OK, lower band icy, snow all the way up the rest of the gully.) Good conditions also for the normal route by the Glacier du Milieu, (good skiers are setting off from the summit.)
The Col du Chardonnet is tracked on the true right bank. There are 80m of abseils on the Saleina side, (a 50m rope suffices.)
Mer de Glace / Aiguille du Midi Sector
It is no longer feasible to exit in safety onto the Mer de Glace from the Pas de Chèvre.
There has been no more information about the Whymper couloir since the good weather period last February but it looks to be feasible. The S facing classics in this area also look feasible.
Brèche Puiseux (50 m abseil), Couloir du Capucin (60 m abseil), Tacul Shoulder (30 m abseil) and Col du Tacul (there and back), are all been done regularly and are in very good condition.
Valley Blanche is generally in good condition. There is a short passage of ice to reach the start of the climb back up to the Mottets which needs care and a good skiing ability. It is still possible to ski down to Chamonix with two short walking sections and then a final 15min walk. Care is needed to control one’s speed.
The Glacier Rond (2x 15m abseils from the summit), Couloir des Cosmiques (60 m abseil then icy snow for 200m) are being done. It is possible to ski to the tunnel, either by the Para slope or the Combe des Glaciers.
The Laurence and Cosmiques ridges are tracked. The traverse of the Pointes Lachenal not recommended; bare ice.
Some ropes have been on the Vent du Dragon and the Chéré Gully. Some of the other gullies appear to be feasible but are still very dry (e.g. Modica-Noury, Gabarrou-Albinoni.) This makes these routes harder than their given grades; take short screws and rock protection.
The Mallory on the N face of the Midi has been re-tracked, (still bare ice at the top)
The N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is not in condition and is not thought to have been done this year. There is a lot of ice and has a problematical bergschrund. The descent by the Plateaux appears to be in good condition, (done in February.)
The Trappier couloir is being skied regularly.
Helbronner Sector
The main ski descents on the Italian side are in good condition, (Marbrées, Toule Glacier, Col d'Entrêves, Brenva). There is some walking in order to reach the base of the valley.
Conscrits Sector
The Tre la Tete hotel and the Conscits hut both opened on Wednesday. The skis can be used after the Rocher des Plans, (30 to 45mins of walking first.) The Mauvais Pas has a section of icy snow and there is also a risk of falling ice blocks. It is recommended to pass it between 10am and noon. The glacier has a good track. Some parties left today, (Thurdsay) for Mont Tondu and the Dômes de Miage, (hoping to descend the Armancette glacier).
The gorge leading to the to the Combe Blanche looks to be OK in descent.
Aiguilles Rouges
All the Aiguilles Rouges classics are in condition. There is some walking above La Flatière for the Aiguillette des Houches. The Bérard valley is in good condition, (icy snow lower down on the path by the true right bank of the river). It is possible to reach the Loriaz chalets from Couteray, either by ski or snow shoe. The Col de la Terrasse is tracked. The exit from the Très les Eaux valley is complicated, as a build up of snow prevents bypassing the stream bed at one point, meaning wet feet, (abseil). Not much snow near Granges and what there is risks being heavy.
Snow Shoeing and walking paths
The valley paths are possible with good footwear and hiking poles. Snow shoes are only useful once one has gained some height. Examples are: using the Prarion lift for the loop there and the Vallorcine lift for the Aiguillette des Posettes.
Ice Climbing
It is still just possible to find some climbing on the true left bank of the Argentiere glacier or the Patri sector at Cogne.
No information for the beginner ice climbing areas.
A quick update following the return of the sun this weekend.
The recent weather fronts brought with them not only snow but also strong winds. This makes it very difficult to estimate the amount of new snow, (on average 50 to 80 cms above 1800/2000m). A small amount of snow fell at the valley level which has temporally improved conditions there. At mid and higher altitudes, the snow depth has been significantly increased but is not stable. The avalanche risk, both natural and provoked, has been high since Friday with numerous and large windslabs breaking away. Today, Saturday, the rapid rise in temperatures has resulted in the snow sliding off the sun affected slopes. Caution is needed over the coming days. BERA has put out a warning for this Sunday: “the snow pack remains treacherous at altitude”.
It is also difficult to assess the snow quality. Chamoniarde has not received many reports. The snow has been compacted and affected by the wind and the variations in temperatures together with the sun this Saturday. The snow conditions are very variable. They are generally good on the northern slopes above 2000m but crusty below this. They are less good on slopes affected by the sun, as the snow has not yet transformed and therefore crusty and with slide/avalanche debris in places.
The Trapette ski tour track at Argentiere was reported to be good condition on Saturday.
For snow shoers, even though there was some fresh snow down to the valley floor, a better option is at altitude on the signposted tracks prepared by the Pistes and Paths service and the Company du Mont-Blanc. (https://www.ccpmb.fr/eau-air-nature-environnement/les-sentiers-de-randonnees/itineraires-raquette-a-neige/) (http://www.skiplan.com/bulletin/bulletin.php?station=chamonix®ion=alpes&pays=france&lang=en)
Following the recent weather, the conditions have completely changed. Activity in the mountains is slowly picking up as of this weekend. The forecast is for more clement for next week.
Enjoy your outings, take care and let Chamoniarde know about them, (online at OBS-ALP , or the cahier de course, or by telephone, or a message on the Chamoniarde Facebook page.) Thanks in advance.
Tatra Mountains - Poland
Following the success of the meet to the Polish Tatra Mountains, situated on the border with Slovakia, last year a second follow up visit was arranged. Ten members attended.
Interview by Glyn Hughes
Mike, could you start by telling us about your earliest climbing experiences.
When I turned up in Cambridge in 1962 I had done very little real climbing, but I was very keen to do more, and I had already discovered that I seemed to have some talent for it. I went on a meet to the Derbyshire gritstone as soon as I could, and, wearing my mountain boots (I had not heard of PAs at the time), I got up a few climbs. Shortly after that I fell about 25ft off a VS because the rubber on the toe of my boot was worn away, and I tore my ankle. The more experienced members of the CUMC (Nick Estcourt, Rupert Roschnik, etc) were not amused by this novice showing off. However I managed to show them that I was actually able to climb, and that I could be competitive with them. That winter I joined the Club’s Ben Nevis meet and got my first taste of ice climbing, which I also enjoyed. I think the reason that I was competitive with the best of them was that I was quite strong, and was able to keep my nerve on rock climbs. I reasoned that if other people had done it before me, even if I could not see how to do the next bit, it was obviously possible and there must be holds there, and so I should be able to do it too. I did not frighten easily, and my (flawed) reasoning worked, so I went up the grades quite quickly, and become one of the better climbers in the CUMC.
After a long period of good weather, two days of bad weather, (1st and 4th of March,) have resulted in some 40cms of new snow at 2000m. Strong winds, (gale force at altitude,) have caused severe drifting, stripping away the snow in some areas and probably creating windslab conditions in others. The amount of snow will vary depending on aspect and altitude.
There is not sufficient snow for snow shoeing below 1100m, north facing, 1400m south facing. The signposted paths in the valley floor are, however, good for walking with the correct footwear and sticks.
Better weather this morning (5th) has seen the return of mountaineering in the range.
Charles Inglis Clark Hut, Ben Nevis
Heading up to the Tower Face Comb
The first meet of the ACG, following its revival at the end of 2018, was based at the CIC hut, under the north face of Ben Nevis, built in memory of Charles Inglis Clark who died of wounds in Mesopotamia in 1918 during the First World War. As well as being a member of the Scottish Mountaineering Club, he was a member of the Alpine Club and one of those commemorated in the 2018 Alpine Journal in the article to commemorate the sacrifice of another era's young Alpine Club members who died in the First World War.
We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Bruno Messerli, who passed away during the night of February 4th 2019.
The funeral took place in Bern on the 15th of February.
Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 18/02/2019
Some more information following the weekend:
The re-freezing is in places limited, areas in the sun are becoming very warm during the day. Avoid being caught out later in the day when there is a significant risk of (wet snow) avalanches. Though the weather is more like April, it is still only February and too early for many of the high-altitude routes, most of which are still dry.
Tour/Trient Sector: The Three Cols route is tracked; the descent either to Trient or Le Tour is in good condition, (as is the Col du Passon.)
Argentière Sector: Col des Cristaux has been skied with good snow, (starting 40m below the col as above is dry). The Couturier is tracked in ascent, conditions look to be OK. Courtes and Droites are still dry (NE also). The bergschrund for the “Y” on the Aiguille d'Argentière looks problematical, but no further information. The Cols du Chardonnet, du Tour Noir and d'Argentière are tracked, (sometimes Spring snow, sometimes powder, depending on the aspect.) The return by the true left bank of the glacier to Lognan is good.
Talèfre Sector: Very average conditions for the “Y” on the Aiguille Verte, (lower band in bad condition, more information in the cahier de course). On the other hand, the Whymper is in good condition, (the bergschrund goes on the left ascending, couloir completely on snow, softish, allowing step kicking.) The central couloir gives the best exit, (right couloir has ice, Pierre à Béranger couloir has avalanche snowballs.)
Géant / Helbronner Sector: Aiguille du Midi Ridge: Crampons essential, rope recommended. Note, one needs to descend a little further than usual, to the second flat area, as the first step is bare ice.
Good conditions for the Valley Blanche, the descent from les Mottets is beginning to suffer but still OK. Brèche Puiseux is very popular, (50 m abseil), likewise the Capucin couloir (60 m abseil) and the Aiguillette du Tacul. Spring conditions on the Italian side (Marbrées, Toule: hand rail to get to the stairs, Col d'Entrèves, Brenva.) Need to be there at the right time of day to get the best ski conditions.
The Mallory on the Aiguille du Midi is tracked in ascent. The rock fall at the end of last summer is causing some problems on the Cosmiques Ridge, (there is an unstable section if it is not frozen, 2 abseils, 50m rope suffices.)
Grands-Mulets: N Ridge is not in condition. Some parties have skinned up by the Plateaux, (fragile snow bridges on the slope beneath the Small Plateau,) and then the ridge to the Vallot hut, (rock hard snow on the Bosses ridge, good snow on the descent.)
Tête Rousse Sector: Trappier Couloir in good condition, with the ascent via the Rognes. Désert de Pierre Ronde is tracked. A roped party has ascended Mont Blanc from Bellevue, without snow shoes, must have been a struggle!
Aiguilles Rouges : ski touring just about everywhere, (descent to Valloricine, Buet and Plaine Joux OK.) Be aware of the avalanche risk on slopes exposed to the sun and the possibility of cornices collapsing.
Ice Climbing: Still a lot to go at, if not exposed to the sun, (Notre Dame de la Gorge, Left bank of the Argentière glacier, Pétoudes.) It is probably over for the Argentière Right bank. The Barre des Charcotains is finished. Still plenty to do at Cogne.
Mountain Conditions 15/02/2019
Here is the update for this week of beautiful weather.
The amount of snow (about 30 to 40 cm above 2000m). deposited during the bad weather last weekend is difficult to estimate because of the accompanying strong winds. Spring weather has arrived for the first week of the half term holidays. The freezing level is climbing very high during the day, (above 3000m.) As you may guess, this heat can cause wet snow slides/avalanches, especially on the sunny slopes. The snow quality is variable, frozen and often affected by the wind on the north facing slopes, frequently crusty where exposed to the sun. (Further transformation is needed before it becomes ideal for skiing.)
Ski touring remains the most popular activity for this winter. Conditions are generally good, though it is important not to be too late in the day. There is snow right down to the valley floor and the mid-mountain classics are popular. For example: at Contamines (Monts Jovets, Cols de Fenêtre/Cicle/Chasseurs), at Plaine Joux (Moëde Anterne, Pointe Noire de Pormenaz), in the Aiguilles Rouges (all the routes), at Vallorcine (Buet, Loriaz, Col de la Terrasse), and in the neighbouring Switzerland (Bel Oiseau, Carraye, Pointe Ronde).
This good weather has also meant the start of the ski mountaineering season. The “Z” track from the Aiguille du Midi is open but very icy, (crampons essential). The Valley Blanche is basically in good condition and it is possible to ski down to Chamonix. The way up to the Brèche Puiseux is tracked, as is the descent to the Mont Mallet glacier (icy snow in the exit couloir). On the Italian side, all the classics are tracked (Marbrés,Toule, Col d'Entrèves, Brenva) but respect the time of day. There is skiing has also in the Argentiere sector, (the hut opens today, Friday), e.g. Col des Grands Montets, traverse of the Col du Passon, Three Cols, Col du Tour Noir and Argentière are all tracked. However, the is no information concerning the north faces, which look to be very dry. There has been activity in the Trient sector, (e.g. Glacier des Grands), the return is good.
Conditions for ice climbing are changing rapidly with this warm weather. It is recommended to avoid areas that catch the sun, (e.g. right bank of Argentière)). Even in shaded areas be very careful to check the conditions.
Still little or no information about winter mountaineering and the mixed routes. The Cosmiques Ridge is being done regularly.
Andy Nisbet, Lurchers Crag 2019 (Photo Sandy Allan)
It has been a week since the loss of two leading Scottish mountaineers in the same accident on Ben Hope on the 5th February 2019 that left the winter climbing community stunned. It appears likely that Steve Perry and Andy Nisbet fell from the upper section of a new route on the West Face of Ben Hope, while completing a new route together.
Mountain Conditions 08/02/2019
An update for this weekend and the start of the school holidays. The conditions are becoming favourable for winter sports. Unsettled weather this weekend but sunshine is forecast for next week.
For skiers, (piste, hors-piste and touring), the snow is overall good. However, there remains an important risk of avalanche which will become difficult to spot with the snowfall and wind foreseen for this weekend. Many professionals have observed avalanche activity in areas not usually affected, take care!
During this holiday period there will be a lot more skiers on the pistes, adapt your speed accordingly!
For ski-tourers, conditions are mainly good, though some rocks are exposed here and there. There is a cornice threatening the true right bank of the ENSA couloir, (notably if there is a wind or a warm period.)
The Valley Blanche is generally in good condition. The ridge is equipped with rope handrails and stakes but the « Z » is not tracked yet. There are quite a few rocks on the Mer de Glace between the ice caves and the climb back up to Mottets. From Mottets the descent down to Chamonix is OK.
The classic ski tours remain popular, (Contamines valley, Aiguilles Rouges, Bel Oiseau / Col de la Forclaz sector etc.) Good conditions also higher up on the glaciers, (Brèche Puiseux, Argentière sector, Col du Passon etc.)
Generally good conditions also for ice climbing.
However, for the mixed routes, as has been the case for the last two years, conditions are very dry with little or no activity.
Enjoy the mountains safely and the Chamoniarde team look forward to hearing about your experiences on: https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/cahier-de-courses
The high pressure since the last update has resulted in stable but very cold weather. The region was not affected by the bad weather elsewhere on Wednesday. There has been a cold wind since Thursday, causing windslab in places and probably large snow drifts at altitude.
Ski touring and ice climbing remain the main activities for the moment. The winter mountaineering season has not really started yet, the routes are still very dry.
Ski touring: touring possibilities throughout the Mont Blanc range, (Aiguilles Rouges – Argentière sector - Requin sector – Col de la Forclaz – Loriaz sector …..) Possible to start skiing from 1000m, (cover initially poor, but good above 1500m.) Take ski crampons because certain passages have been stripped down to hard ice/snow by the wind (ridges, cols.)
Ice climbing: Lots of activity last week in the following sectors: Trient (Pétoudes and Barre des Charcotins), Argentière (left and right banks) and Crèmerie. A rope was seen on the Sainte Marie Viaduc icefall. The lines looked to be formed at the Col des Montets (Barre du Chenavier) but no more information. The Loriaz icefall looks to be well formed. In the Aosta valley, conditions remain unchanged from the last update, (19th Jan).
Valley Blanche: the ridge is now partially equipped, with a rope on the crest, (very hard snow.) The “Z” track is not yet in place. The current conditions require a good level of ski ability. The run down to Chamonix (via the Mottets,) remains OK.
With regards to the re-opening of the Plan Praz lift. this should open on Sunday 27th January. However, check the CMB site for the latest information as it might open already during the day on the Saturday. It always remains possible to reach the Brevent ski area from the Flégère cable car.
Winter Hiking: the valley floor paths are icy, foresee using walking crampons. The signposted snow shoe trails at mid-altitude, (prepared by the Mont Blanc Company) are proving popular as they have plenty of snow. Those in the valley floor, (prepared by council, Communauté de communes,) have enough, albeit compacted, snow.
MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 19/01/2019
The bad weather the previous weekend, together with that on Thursday, has greatly improved the skiing conditions. The amount of snow fallen varies from one sector to another, for example there is less snow at Vallorcine.
The ski domains are in near perfect condition; blue skies, well prepared pistes and not too many people. However, still take care, particularly in controlling one’s speed. Also check the bulletin on the Compagnie du Mont Blanc site to see what is open!!
Good conditions for ski touring, though the snow quality can be unreliable, (wind slab in places,) and there are still snow some icy patches away from the snow bowls. (This can also mean a hard base with rocks just below the surface in some areas.) It is now possible to put on the skis directly from the valley start.
All the Aiguilles Rouges classics, (Col de la Terrasse, Mont Buet, Col de Beugeant, Col des Dards & du Belvédère, Crochues-Bérard, Brèche de Bérard, Col de la Floria, Col de la Glière, Aiguillette des Houches) and in the Argentière sector, (Col du Passon, Col du Chardonnet there and back, Col du Tour Noir) are tracked.
Concerning the Aiguille du Midi, the ridge is still not equipped (only some stakes in place). It is still early season, crevasse danger. There are some exposed rocks on the Mer de Glace but the following ski back down to Chamonix is good. The Mottets Buvette is open for the season, as is the Requin hut.
Ice climbing is possible in the usual sectors: Trient (Pétoudes), Argentière (left and right banks, Crémerie) and Les Contamines. In the Aosta valley, the icefalls below 1800m are not well formed. However, the lack of snow means those higher up are more easily accessible than usual.
No information concerning the mixed routes; still not in condition!!!
Lastly, conditions for snow shoeing, ski du fond and winter hiking are good.
