MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 04/06/2020
First the good news. The by-law forbidding overnighting in the mountains was lifted on the 2nd June. The bad news is that the weather has changed for the worse, (though this should eventually improve conditions which were very dry for the beginning of June.)
The French huts will be allowed to open, with certain conditions, (reduction in capacity, bedding and pillows not supplied…) Please consult the dedicated website ( https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/refuges ) which will be updated regularly.
Until the huts open, the winter rooms remain accessible, though a bivouac, (individual tent,) is better adapted to the current health situation.
The Conscrits and Trè la Tête huts opened on 2nd June.
Here are the dates on which the following huts hope to open:
- 10 June : Tête Rousse; Albert 1er
- 11 June : Goûter
- 13 June : Cosmiques; Plan de l'Aiguille, Nid d'Aigle
- Mid June : Plan Glacier
- 20 June : Charpoua, Leschaux
- Early July : Envers des Aiguilles
The Grands Mulets and Requin huts will not open this summer. It is not certain when the Couvercle hut will open, as work is foreseen there. The Chamoniarde site will keep you informed.
The situation in Switzerland and Italy appears to be similar with the progressive opening of the huts.
Concerning the high mountain conditions, the good weather these last weeks has allowed for a lot of activity. The snow routes are mostly in good condition. Aiguille du Tour; Chardonnet (Forbes Ridge + Migot Spur); Aiguille d'Argentière (Flèche Rousse, Y Couloir, Glacier du Milieu), Aiguille Verte (Couturier, Whymper), Midi-Plan Ridge, Cosmiques Ridge, Mont Blanc du Tacul (normal route, Contamine-Negri, Contamine-Grisolle), Kuffner Ridge, Mont Blanc normal route, Mettrier Ridge and Dômes de Miage traverse were done frequently.
On the other hand, the Trois Monts route is not in condition. A large serac bars the way on the N face of Mont Maudit and the seracs lower on the face are unstable.
Rock climbing conditions are good on the S faces but there remains some snow on faces not that exposed to the sun.
Some reports on recent outings can be found in the cahier de course.
These conditions will probably change with the unsettled weather period that has started.
For hikers : the Barberine path has re-opened. The 4x4 track up to the Mottets from Planards is closed until July 31, more info : https://www.chamoniarde.com/actualites/sentiers/fermeture-chemin-4-4-des-mottets
Given the bad weather, the other good news is that the climbing wall at Les Houches has re-opened.