A quick update following several days of good weather. With the warmth, conditions are rapidly evolving and some alpine route may soon not be practical. The mountain footpaths, however, are improving with each day.
- Albert 1er : The Migot Spur and Forbes Aret are being done regularly, good conditions if there is a good freeze. Some ice is beginning to appear on the Migot. No problems yet on the descent by the normal route.
The classics in this sector (Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, normal route on the Aiguille du Tour...) are in condition. The Table couloir is no longer practical, one needs to take the Table Ridge from the start.
There is still a lot of snow on the hut approach from the La Tour lifts; ice axe and crampons essential. Some snow blocks have detached and slid across the footpath, take care. The path from the lifts is not yet recommended for hikers.
- Argentière : good conditions for the Petite Aiguille Verte and the Aiguille d'Argentière (glacier du Milieu, Whymper, Flèche Rousse, Arête du Jardin). Very hard snow in places. The « Y » has been done, no further information).
The Tournier Spur on the Droites was climbed in very dry conditions and difficult to protect. A lot of bare ice on the Couturier and the bergschrund appears to be very open.
- Charpoua : The « Y » is no longer in condition, The Flammes de Pierre is dry, the Contamine on the Evêque is OK, A party went for the Contamine on the Dru this Saturday. Still some snow on the Drus normal route, should be OK by the end of the week.
- Couvercle : Generally good conditions in this sector if there is a good freeze.
Arête du Jardin on the Verte has been done but not that on the Moine, (snow). The Whymper remains popular. The normal route on the Droites, traverse of the Courtes and the Aig de Talèfre have all been done. Parties on the Moine, (including the E Face Contamine), the Nonne-Evêque and the Évêque.
- Leschaux : Good conditions continue in this sector, (see the hut Facebook page.) The Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses will soon be dry.
Still some snow fields on the traverse path to the Couvercle, crampons useful in the morning.
- Envers des Aiguilles : The rock is mostly dry. The bergschrund for the République is awkward but passable, followed by not much snow in the couloir but OK. One party on the Charmoz-Grépon this Saturday. Another party on the Bec d'Oiseau on Friday, no further information. The Ryan was done last week in OK conditions, (see route book.)
- Requin : Rock dry behind the hut. Parties ascending the Valley Blanche towards the Cosmiques and Skyway.
- Torino : Generally good conditions but be aware of stonefall around the Tour Ronde. There is a track on the Traverse of the Jorasses but no further information and there appears to be still too much snow. Aiguilles du Diable traverse OK but still some snow between the Isolée and the summit.
- Cosmiques : Good refreezing and good conditions in this sector. These last few days has seen parties on the Küffner. The Triangle du Tacul, (Contamine-Grisolle and Chéré) and the 3 Monts traverse are being done. Laurence Ridge, Cosmiques Ridge and Pointes Lachenal are popular.
- Plan de l'Aiguille : Parties on the Peigne, the Pélerins and the Petits Charmoz. No problems for the descent of the Nantillons glacier for the moment. The Frendo is being climbed, given a good freeze.
- Grands Mulets : Activity continues in this sector. Ice is slowly reappearing on the N Ridge of the Dome, but condtions are still OK.
Durier/ Plan Glacier/ Conscrits : Good conditions in this sector, if there is a good freeze. The Bionnassay Ridge, Dômes de Miage and Mont Tondu are popular. No information either for the Lée Blanche or the Aiguilles de Tré la Tête. Approach to the hut possible by the glacier.
- Monzino : good conditiions for the Pointe Innominata, some ice on the ridge Some parties on the S ridge of the Noire Noire and the Aiguille Croux.
Climbing on the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard (Gabarrou-Long, Anneaux Magiques et Bonatti).
- Gonella : The hut approach is in good condition, ascending the true right bank of the Miage glacier, crevasses filled in. The Voie du Pape is tracked, good conditions, the glacier is OK though there are some fragile snow bridges. The ridge after the Piton des Italiens is broad. Nobody for the moment for the Tournette Spur, probably have to wait until next week, (the gully up to the Sella bivouac is already very dry and with a little ice above.)
Conditions for hikers are improving but some sectors still have a lot of snow, notably on the big Aig Rouges classics. Good mountain boots and hiking oles are the minimum recommended and depending on the route, crampons and ice axe may be essential. (Tour des Aiguilles Rouges, Mont Buet, Lacs Noirs, Glière, Lac Blanc, Col du Brévent, Albert 1er from the lifts...).
The Tour du Mont Blanc is very popular but care is needed in crossing the cols and streams. Proper equipment is needed. Crampons are advisable and essential on some of the variations.
Ice axe and crampons may be useful for the approach to certain approaches and descents for the rock climbs in the Aig Rouges.