Report 18th Dec 2020

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 18/12/2020

Some information at the start of the holidays.

The snow is well established in the valley.  Recently it rained up to 2000m which has degraded the snow quality (now often crusty or like concrete in places lower down).  There is just enough to ski tour at La Balme or Les Houches on what would normally be  pisted areas. However, as they are not pisted for the moment, one needs to be a good skier. The cover is thin and stones are never far away.  Conditions are better in neighbouring areas (Aravis, Chablais) where there is slightly more snow and the underlying terrain is grassier.

As a result of the snow conditions, hiking in the valley floor is limited.  Information on feasible signposted tracks is here.  Experienced hikers  with good footwear and poles could try the “petit balcons”, La Floria, Le Chapeau or the Mottets snack bar (from Les Bois).  

There is still not enough snow in the valley floor or on the dedicated trails, for snow shoeing.  More experienced snowshoers could consider going to the chalets at Chailoux or Loriaz.

Very little information is available for the high mountain, especially concerning conditions for mixed climbing. (If the weather allows, it is a matter of go out and see!)  Even though the glaciers are reasonably well filled in, it is just the start of the season.  The return by the true left bank of the Argentière glacier is very awkward.  

Do not hesitate to contact the Office de Haute Montagne to discuss the feasibility of your projects and to help others by logging your experiences in the cahier de course. (route book.)

Report 23rd Oct 2020

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 23/10/2020

Although snow remains above 2100m, this coming weekend should allow one to enjoy the beautiful autumnal colors at mid altitudes.

In the high mountains, the recent snowfall accompanied by strong winds makes route choice more difficult.

For hikers, not much has changed since our last update and even if the snow has receded a bit, progression can still be tricky without the right equipment and experience for snowy terrain.

You will find some recommended hikes on the Chamoniarde site.

In the high mountains, the wind has been blowing hard these last few days and it is difficult to say how this will have affected conditions.

The gully season has only just started and most of them are still very dry, so expect to use rock protection and have some technical ability in reserve.  

Some winter huts, for example the Albert 1er, can be particularly busy, especially on weekends.

Routes like Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche were done this week; snowshoes were not needed on 19^th Oct but maybe so for this weekend.

As you will have understood, with all the disruptions and reduced activity this autumn, gathering information is far from easy.  We are therefore counting on you to send your feedback to Chamoniarde

Report 15th October 2020

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 15/10/2020

Not much has changed since the last update.

The weather remains wintery in the Chamonix valley for the start of the All Saints half term, (17th Oct to 2^nd Nov in France),

A much hoped for improvement in the weather is needed before mountain activity can resume. There should be a weather window in the few days’ time.

The Aiguille du Midi cable car, the Montenvers train, (with the ice cave lift,) and the Flégère bubbles will be open during the holiday period.  See :(https://www.montblancnaturalresort.com/en/).

There has been little information coming in recently about the high mountain.  There has been a lot of snow, and if nothing else, making the glaciers “happy” :) !  To move about, skis or snowshoes are essential. Take care with the snow bridges which might not be consolidated yet.  Also be aware of avalanche risk, even if Météo France is not yet issuing bulletins on BERA.   Remember that all the huts are closed, (winter rooms accessible.)

As far as the mixed routes are concerned, what little information is available, (mainly from looking,) indicates conditions remain dry.  The new snow is very cold and has covered the ice and rocks without consolidating yet.  That said, some routes will be “climbable”.  Looking forward to your reports ! 

Some classic routes could be feasible : Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Cosmiques Ridge, Pointes Lachenal and Marbrées traverses etc. More stability is needed before  committing to longer routes like Mont Blanc by the Goûter or the Dômes de Miage.

The hiking trails can be challenging.  They are often greasy and slippery, with care needed in places.  There is quite a lot of snow above 2000m, (depending on the aspect)   However, it is still too early to get out the snowshoes! As a reminder, some of the signposting has been removed for the winter.  The early arrival of the snow has caused some trees to fall onto certain paths, (especially those with leaves).

As stated in the previous report, some alpine paths remain impractical, (Nid d'Aigle, Jonction, Lake Cornu, Albert 1er, Buet etc,) as are the multi day treks (Tour des Aiguilles Rouge, TMB) unless one is in expedition mode,  :) . 

Due to the snow, certain classic hikes require one to be well equipped, (poles, good boots, maybe gaiters.) In the absence of footprints, the path is not always visible and it is easy to go wrong.

Possible objectives are:  the Aiguillette des Houches, Prarion via Charousse and the Col de la Forclaz, Bellachat hut, the Sentier des Pharaons above the Cerro chalet, Plan de l'Aiguille via  Grand Bois.  The Grand Balcon Nord (completed covered in snow and only suitable for  experienced hikers,) Alpage de Blaitière, Montenvers via Caillet or Les Mottets (possibility to continue, there and back, to the Signal Forbes), Planpraz, there and back, via the Plan des Chablettes and the Combe du Brévent, Grand Balcon Sud, there and back, from Flégère, Chéserys lakes (possibility to continue to Lac Blanc in the snow,) from Flégère or the Col des Montets, Aiguillette des Posettes from Trè le Champs (snow higher up), Bérard Valley, Loriaz chalets.

The via ferrata des Evettes should be feasible, with the Flégère lift open.  Likewise, for the Curalla VF at Plateau d'Assy (due to be closed from 02/11).

Report 7th October 2020

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 07/10/2020

Some brief  information for this autumnal start to October.

Since the last update, already some time ago, winter  has established itself early at altitude.  The  various weather fronts have deposited  snow, sometimes  below 2000m. There have even been snowflakes down to the valley floor.  All the mountain huts are now closed, (including the Plan d’Aiguille, Cosmiques, Torino which normally would still be open.)  Weather permitting, the Aiguille du Midi lift will stay open until 1^st November (re-opening foreseen for 12/12).  Likewise, for the Skyway, (closes 02/11 reopens 25/11).  The Montenvers train also remains open this Autumn, (N.B. the ice cave and cable car are shut until the half term holidays.)   The Flégère  will also be open at half term,(17/10 to 1/11).

The high mountain activity is virtually zero given the amount of snow and lack of weather windows.  The rocks appear to be out of condition and there is no information for the mixed routes. One needs to wait until the weather improves .  The routes from the Aig du Midi could be feasible during the weather window foreseen in the next few days, (perhaps strong winds at altitude.)  Snowshoes could be useful.    Hiking is limited due  the early arrival of winter at altitude. For the same reason, some of the signposts are in the process of being removed; take a map!

In general, hiking is best below 2000m, for example: Chalets de Chailloux, Prarion via Charousse and the Col de la Forclaz, Chalet du Cerro, Alpage de Blaitière, Montenvers, Buvette du Chapeau, Chalet de la Floria, Grand Balcon Sud, Pierre à Bérard hut, Loriaz hut, the Cascades du Dards and Bérard.

Experienced hikers  (with walking poles and good footwear) could venture higher, though the paths might not always visible; for example :  Aiguillette des Houches, Grand Balcon Nord, Aiguillette des Posettes, Chéserys Lakes. The more alpine trails are not recommended, for example : Nid Aigle, Jonction, Cornu lake, Albert 1er and Buet.

Report 18 September 2020

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS

The season is coming to an end and autumnal weather is expected next week.

Most of the ski lifts and mountain huts are either closed or soon will be.  For more details, consult the relevant pages on the Chamoniarde site.

Regarding hiking, conditions are excellent and should remain so if the weather is favourable.

In the high mountains, the season is finished and even if the snowfall last week had temporarily improved the conditions of some routes, the hot weather since has reversed most of this, with rockfalls becoming frequent again.

For now, conditions in the Tour sector are OK, (the hut closes on Sunday 20^th September.)

All the huts in the Mer de Glace sector are now closed  but climbing here should still be possible on pleasant autumnal days.

In the Aiguille du Midi sector, the Pointes Lachenal traverse and the Cosmiques ridge are still being done despite the dry conditions. There have been some parties also on the  Contamine-Grisolle (exit at the top of the Triangle then return by the shoulder) , the Chéré Gully and on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi.

There has been no recent information about the Midi-Plan traverse.

The Trois Monts is still being done but the route remains more technical than usual, despite the presence of a fixed rope at the Mont Maudit Col.

Crossing the Valley Blanche is reported to be complicated in places.  However, interest in this route will fade with the closing of the Panoramic lift this weekend.    

A track is visible on the Plateau route above the Grand Mulets.   No further information is available.

Normal route of Mont Blanc:  The Bellevue cable car closes on Sunday 20th and the Mont Blanc tramway the following weekend.  The Nid d'Aigle, Tête Rousse and Goûter huts remain open,  (closing dates were given in the last update).  There has been an increased amount of stonefall  in the Grand Couloir and several  parties have chosen to turn back in recent days.  Also, the cable was severed  by a huge, night-time rockfall.

In the Conscripts sector, the conditions are now as dry as they were before the last snowfall.  The Glacier de Tré-la-Tête is dry and below the Col des Dômes  it is necessary to weave between treacherous crevasses.  There is ice, “canolles” (unstable ice formations) and a risk of stone fall on the slope between the Dômes and the Bérangère.  Therefore, to do the Domes de Miage  it is preferable  to go there and back from the Col des Dômes.

It is over for Mont Tondu, except from the south via the Valley des Glaciers.

On the Italian side, there has been reports of parties on the SE ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and of rock climbing on the Aiguille Croux.

There has been regular activity around the Torino hut (Marbrées, Entrèves, Tacul satellites, Dent du Géant, Rochefort ridge ...)   Care is still required on the approach to the “Salle a Manger” due to the unstable terrain.

As for climbing and hiking in the Aiguilles Rouges, all the lifts will be closed after this weekend.

The conditions described in this update  will certainly change in the coming days.

As the huts are now closed, it will be more difficult for Chamoniarde to obtain information, so do not hesitate to send in your feedback.