news blog

A bit of sunshine, but often a SW wind which complicates refreezing conditions for snow routes and glacier approaches. No heatwave, but it's warm in the high mountains. There was a lot of wind and rain last night below 4,000m. The rock has dried out nicely, but it's still too early for some of the high altitude climbs.

 

 

 

The Dorées traverse is getting a lot of traffic and is in good conditions despite the bad freeze. The Copt couloir is very unstable and should not be climbed or descended.

 

The Col Blanc has a 50m abseil on the Swiss side.

 

The Col du Tour on the Le Tour side has been equipped with fixed ropes.

 

The rimaye on the normal route of the Aiguille du Tour has partly collapsed. Take care when crossing it, but it's still passable (on the left hand side, below the main summit).

 

The poor refreeze isn't helping matters on the Chardonnet (teams have turned back because of the poor refreeze over the last few days). It's the end for the goulotte Escarra. Things have got worse on the Migot spur (dry/mixed lower ramp), with rockfalls on 09/07 at the bottom due to poor freeze conditions & a route finding error by one team.

 

There is still névé after the junction of the paths coming from Charamillon and the Col de Balme, then snow again 100m below the refuge, but fine for good hikers.

 

 

 

Access to the refuge is still via the glacier. Access via the ladders should be fixed next week - we'll keep you posted!

 

Snow routes are OK when it's freezing: glacier du Milieu there and back, Flèche Rousse, col du Tour Noir. The Couturier is no more.

 

The Jardin arete is in good condition but needs to refreeze for the descent. Still too much snow at the top for the Charlet-Straton arete.

 

The time hasnt come for the Tournier spur yet (+ rock falls at the bottom).

 

Otherwise, the rock is dry!

 

 

 

It's pretty much dry to climb up to the refuge via the path and the "Charpoua express" option.

 

The American Direct has been climbed (a little snow on top to make water, otherwise it's dry). The Drus traverse has also been done. Some névés to access the Flammes de Pierre arete and then below the Petit Dru summit: quite a few manoeuvres to remove and put on crampons, which wastes time. The Z is covered in snow. Some of the abseil belays on the S face are still covered in snow - it's "wet"! The Charpoua glacier goes very well.

 

Climbers on the Flammes de Pierre, Contamine (SW ridge) on the Evêque and Sale Athée (Aiguille du Moine).

 

 

 

The balcony paths are being done every day, with a few névés on the way to the Leschaux (bring crampons and ice axe).

 

It's all good for the Moine! The normal route has dried well (a few névés, but crampons are no longer necessary). The rock on the E face (Contamine route, Aureille Feutren) goes well.

 

Generally speaking, the rock is dry!

 

For snow routes, it's the refreeze that's the issue. Generally speaking, the rimayes have opened up and there is often a decent gap. The Whymper Couloir is still a possibility, as it is still well covered in snow. Still no one on the Jardin arete and the Droites traverse. "Traverse of the Courtes in good conditions if it refreezes. Accessible belays on the descent of Chenavier. Enough exposed rock to protect the Aiguille qui Remue traverse. One team made a mistake on the descent (too far to the right) and were taken out by the PGHM, so dont follow their track."

 

Pointe Isabelle still looks good and is doing surprisingly well on the glacier.

 

 

 

Snow routes (Aiguille de l'éboulement and Périades via the Mont Mallet glacier) OK if refreezing.

 

The W face of the Petites Jorasses (Contamine, Anouk) and that of the Aiguille de Leschaux (Boule à facette: "a chunk of snow above the rimaye that will come off in the next few days + wet passages in the lower part because of the névé at the 3rd belay") are generally dry, the access is fine even if you are "up to the knees with a bad refreeze", rimayes OK.

 

On the Grandes Jorasses, the transition between mixed and rock climbing is underway (although it's still a bit early for the Cassin, for example).

 

 

 

The bottom of the access ladders to the Envers refuge has been redone (photo above)! Beware of a few unstable boulders at the foot of the ladders. There is still some snow to access the refuge.

 

The rock is dry except for the Aiguille de Roc / Grépon-Mer de Glace - Aiguille de la République E face sector, which is not recommended at the moment (ice/snow fall) from the ledges/benches when it gets hot. Cross the rimaye on the right (photo below). Easily 10m of fixed ropes missing: thus tricky on the way up, OK with a big abseil on the way down.

 

 

Mixed opinion on access to the Fou: 2 teams did it, one team failed at the rimaye. 

 

The access to the Requin hut has been repaired. The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is still going well, as is the Envers du Plan glacier. The Dent du Requin (Renaudie) is being climbed. On the south-east face of Pierre-Alain, access to Congo Star seems complicated because of a large névé: to be checked.

 

 

 

Few changes.

 

Jetoula is dry but crampons needed for the access couloir.

 

The access to the Salle à Manger is drying out and the unstable terrain is coming out, so be careful when and where you put your feet down. Good conditions on the Rochefort arete (snow ridge, good track, just some ice around the fixed rope, dry rocky section). Lots of people on the Dent du Géant...!

 

Still too much snow to consider the Jorasses traverse with any peace of mind. The normal route was climbed in good conditions (if it refreezes).

 

A good rimaye defends the Gervasutti couloir on the Tour Ronde. On the other side, only the full Freshfield arete is worth considering!

 

Teams on the Kuffner (see "cahier de course" on website, it's better when it's freezing). Stiil snow on the Diable traverse so it's not really on the agenda.

 

The rock is dry and the rimayes go well! The rimaye in the Aiguillettes couloir (Grand Capucin start) is still passable but it can change quickly.

 

 

 

Still good conditions on the Trois Monts (no ice, rimayes OK).

 

The Midi-Plan goes well (N side traverses in snow, abseil sector OK but avoid going too late), it's better with a good refreeze...

 

Traverse of the Aiguilles: quite a lot of snow with all the advantages (water supply and snow that secures the rocks) and disadvantages that go with it. But you have to adapt (and sometimes put crampons back on) and sometimes go around on the Mer de Glace side. It's better when you can stay on the crest (dry). The Spencer couloir is still filled with snow, so you can down climb it or abseil. Glacier des Nantillons OK (no crevasses, no falling rocks or ice to get the abseils on the spur).

 

 

 

Curtains for the Mallory.

 

Lots of teams on the Frendo Spur. Generally good conditions this week but the conditions are deteriorating rapidly at the top (left exit: an ice traverse then a fractured rock couloir): bring steel crampons, two ice axes and long ice screws.

 

The rock has dried well but crampons are often still necessary!

 

Some activity on the Peigne (still some snow). Quite a bit of snow on the descent via the normal route of the Pélerins, which makes it more technical (the névés probably prevent you from getting to the easiest part): mountain feet recommended! The Peigne-Pélerins-Deux Aigles-Plan traverse is also possible (Davaille-Julien has been done, the rimaye to get onto the glacier is currently tight against the rock).

 

Teams on the Cordier pillar and to Charmoz-Grepon! The Blatière looks dry.

 

 

 

 

There are still a few motivated skiers (but better to go up via the Trois Monts). Skis on at the glacier. The corridor route and the N face are still passable, and you can ski down all the way to the Jonction!

 

Most teams are now coming on foot.

 

Wands show the way to the Jonction (from the Plan de l'Aiguille, set off early and allow between 4 and 6 hours depending on your pace to reach the refuge). You can also get there via the historic route and the Gite Balmat.

 

Most teams are going via the plateaux, but the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is still in good condition: a great way to climb Mont Blanc?

 

 

 

Ascent to Tête Rousse:

 

The ascent is now only by the summer path, with no more snow except on the Rognes plateau. 

The crossing of the glacier to reach the refuge is tracked.

The Rognes path is suitable for mountaineers.

 

Ascent to the Goûter:

 

Generally dry except for the crossing of the couloir, (in snow, 1m deep gully in the middle), the cable is in place. A few rock falls observed in the afternoon.

Ice/snow just below the old hut.

 

Dôme du goûter:

 

Watch out for a crevasse at the bottom of the Dome, just about covered but waiting for you. 

 

Bosses ridge:

 

The traverse before the wall of the "mauvaise arete" (where the N face track breaks off) is well crevassed.

Ice on the "mauvaise arete", 2 threads at the bottom, 1 at the top (shallow ice), narrow ridge, difficult crossing.

 

 

 

Plan Glacier: "the access path to the Contrebandiers from the Col du Tricot is done with crampons and ice axe for the less experienced, and microspikes for those in trainers", according to Hubert the caretaker. The secondary access, via the Ours moraine, is passable. The footbridge has not yet been installed, but should be within a week. The Mettrier ridge is dry up to 200m below the summit. If it refreezes, it can still be traversed in its entirety. No info on the arete Tricot, looks like a lot of snow. 

 

Access to the Conscrits hut is via the footbridge, and there is still some snow before you reach the hut. The route across the Dômes de Miage is well tracked, as is the route over the Aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête. A few U-turns due to bad freezing conditions.

 

Durier: plenty of people on the Royal traverse (Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc). The Bionnassay is in good condition, narrow as usual and requires attention and a sure footing.

 

 

 

The Aiguilles Grises /Pape route is good when it's freezing!

 

The Tournette spur can be considered when the weather is good. Plan to climb early to Quintino Sella.

 

The Punta Innominata with descent via the glacier du Brouillard has been done. People are climbing on the Aiguille Croux.

 

Little activity from the  Eccles.

 

Peuterey Integral ("Still some icy snow on the S ridge of the Noire. There's still a lot of snow on the rest of the route, which has its advantages: water, avoids some tricky rock passages, and its disadvantages") and the classic Peuterey ridge (see report on CamptoCamp).

 

 

 

Still snow on the approach to and descent from the Perrons traverse.

 

Access to the Pointe Percée via the normal route is forbidden until further notice for safety reasons (falling ice and rocks). Descent only via the Sallanches chimneys - combe des verts.

 

Maladière / l'Arche de Noé "At the belay at the end of 7a (belay 7) there is a Kestrel's nest with young inside (2m to the left of the belay). This is a protected species, so please avoid the area at all costs, otherwise the parents will attack you and/or leave the nest and the young will die! This will be the case for at least 4 weeks.

 

 

 

The snow line is gradually climbing to around 2500m. 

 

The Jonction from Les Bossons is passable. There is still some snow to climb to the Albert 1er refuge and the Conscrits refuge.

 

The Col du Brévent and Col de Salenton are still snow-covered: mountain feet and appropriate equipment needed. The same goes for Mont Buet.

 

Some snow to reach the Col Cornu from Plan Praz. Lac Cornu is completely covered in snow. However, the Col de la Glière is not recommended (see photos below).

 

 

As far as the Tour du Mont Blanc is concerned, there is still snow on the Col du Bonhomme, but there are good tracks. The variant via the Col des Fours is not recommended. In the Val d'Arpette side, there is a 30-minute walk in the snow on the Champex side and then 2 steep névés to cross on the Trient side: for good, well-equipped hikers only!

 

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Here's some news in a nutshell. There have been no major changes since our last update on 28 June. A bit of fresh snow at altitude and a very variable night-time refreeze, which directly affects alpine activities. As far as rock climbing is concerned, the rock is drying quickly, then gets wet again. If in doubt, contact us! A weekend of disturbed weather is forecast, so it remains to be seen what the conditions will be like at the start of the week, with fresh snow, refreezing and wind at altitude. 

 

There is still some snow (and snow just below the refuge) on the way to Albert 1er, which is OK for good hikers. Otherwise, no major changes, but conditions in the high mountains will depend on the refreezing. 

 

 

Conditions are good if there is a freeze for the following routes: Couloir en Y, Flèche Rousse, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière, Charlet Straton. There are also good conditions on the Glacier du Milieu, but this is only for experienced climbers. If we get some sunshine, rock climbing conditions will be great. To access the hut, get on the glacier from the Point de Vue. You need to be roped up on the glacier.

 

 

 

You'll have to wait for the snow to melt before you can climb the Drus, although it's possible for good climbers who know the route. Teams planned for l'Evêque, Sale Athée and l'Aiguille du Moine. Waiting for them to return. On 04/07 a party climbed Pointe Wenger, dry rock and a good approach.

 

 

 

The snow has gone on the hut path. A lot of activity on the Aiguille du Moine: the névés on the normal route can be avoided but it's better to bring crampons. The S ridge and E face are dry. The Nonne-Evêque traverse is also ok (no snow on the “rasoir”). The Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte can be done if there is a freeze (big runnels to cross, accessible belays). Teams have bailed on the Droites and on the traverse of the Courtes (poor freeze). Lots of cornices on the Jardin ridge.

 

 

 

Open and guarded again. Conditions as of Thursday 4th on the refuge's Facebook page: 

 

"This morning's freezing conditions were great, so all the snow routes were excellent.

- aiguille de l'Eboulement via the SW couloir ✅️

- Les Périades via the Mallet glacier ✅️

- circuit from the refuge under the Jorasses ✅️

- Petites Jorasses and aiguille de Leschaux: wait 1 or 2 days for the rocks to dry. 

- climbing routes above the refuge ✅️

- Mer de Glace balcon path ✅ but beware, there's still a lot of snow = crampons compulsory!"

 

The ladders are being refurbished today (05/07) for access to the Refuge du Requin and the Envers des Aiguilles. Access will therefore be 5-star. 

 

 

 

The climbing is dry and sunny! The ascent of the Vallée Blanche is trouble-free. Access via the Midi Plan was also tracked on 04/07. 

 

There's still snow at the start of the Pierre Alain and the Dent du Requin, but it's not too bad. Rimaye de l'Aiguille du Plan OK.

 

The Ryan was done on 04/07: "good rimaye, still quite a bit of snow in the north facing gullies and accumulations on some terraces. Longer route than usual", said the guardian. 

 

 

 

Kuffner in good condition on 04 and 05/07. Good refreezing thanks to the clear nights. A team on the Arêtes du Diable did everything with crampons. Might be worth waiting a bit. Rochefort tiptop but no one has continued on to the Grandes Jorasses traverse. Two teams to the summit of the Noire de Peuterey, probably via the S ridge. One team to the red pillar of Brouillard. No one on the Innominata ridge. 

 

 

 

"Cross the glacier from the old "gare des glaciers" and approach the Jonction with crampons on. The Jonction at the bottom is fine, with markers on the glacier to guide you to the best route. 

Very good snow cover from the Jonction onwards, wuth the possibility of being on skis from 2800m. The North ridge of the Gouter has been tracked (snow). Track on the plateaux. North face skied yesterday (04/07) and should be skied this morning (05/07). Refuge open and manned until the end of the month”.

 

 

 

The couloir is still well filled in with snow. Be careful, however, with the latest "warm spells" and the time of day when you use the couloir. The couloir (including the “bédière”- the runnel dug by flowing water) can be crossed without any particular difficulty. The crevasses of the Dôme are generally well filled in. Overall, the route to Mont Blanc is in good condition. 

 

Lots of people on the “Royal traverse" from the Durier hut. 

 

 

 

Great conditions. Access to the hut is now via the summer path, with a few snow patches, but at this altitude, the snow is melting quickly. If you access via the glacier, you'll have to take off your boots and cross the river, which isn't great! The traverse to the Durier is fine. 

 

 

As for hiking, the snow persists above 2300/2400m. So you need to be careful about the routes you take. 

 

For Lac Blanc, the access path from the Index chairlift is not recommended. There is a lot of snow on steep terrain. It is therefore preferable to access the refuge and lake from the Flégère gondola, as you won't be walking in the snow on this route. It's all about walking! The snow is just above the refuge.

 

- Tour du Mont Blanc: The snow is melting all along the route, but the 3 main cols and the Col du Brévent are still covered in snow. Crampons and walking poles are still recommended. As far as alternatives are concerned, only the Col du Tricot is recommended. It is still too early to consider the Col des Fours, Pas d'entre deux Sauts and Arpette. 

 

- Tour des Aiguilles Rouges & Tour des Fiz: Crampons are still highly recommended, particularly for the northern slopes.

 

- The Jonction (Gite à Balmat) looks doable, but there are still some névés at the summit. Beware of steep and potentially exposed terrain. 

 

- In the Val Montjoie, there is no more snow at the Col de la Fenêtre, on the way to the Jovet lakes (remember, no bivouacking or swimming in the area in July and August) and on the ridge between the Aiguille Croche and Mont Joly. Crampons and ice axes are still required for getting to the Robert Blanc via l'Enclave and the Grande Ecaille.

 

 

We'd like to thank all the refuges and all the people who contribute in any way to providing us with information. Your feedback is extremely useful to us!

 

 

 

An update for the end of June! There hasn’t been much change since last week. Conditions up high for snow routes remain tricky (freeze, wind) and weather windows have been few and far between. Today it looks like the mountains are warming up a bit and things may start to change quickly.

 

The classics are being done regularly. Several teams have turned back when the freeze has been poor. On the Chardonnet, the Forbes Arête is very snowy which makes it difficult to protect. The Migot Spur is in excellent condition when there’s a freeze. The Escarra has been done (well filled). It’s best to take a 60 meter rope if you are descending the new abseil line as some belays are more than 25m apart. You could think about doing the normal route as the rimaye is well filled. The hut is mostly packed out. 

The hut opened last weekend. The Plan Joran lift is open (only for alpinists and rock climbers) 7h40 to 8h20 ; 13h40 to 14h20 and 17h10 to 17h50. Closed on Sunday.

 

When you get to the glacier, traverse diagonally to the right bank heading for the Chardonnet. You need to be roped up as you’re wandering around amongst crevasses. It’s too early for the ladders as these are still under snow. Snow routes including: Col du Tour Noir, Glacier du Milieu, Aiguille du Tour Noir, Pointe Supérieure des Améthystes and Arête du Jardin are in good condition if there’s a good freeze. The Flèche Rousse has been tracked (2 axes best). If there has been a day of good weather to dry the rock, you can certainly climb on the lovely red granite up here.

 

The Refuge is still shut following last week's rock fall. It may be possible to open next week. The winter room remains open. The path to the hut is snowy but there’s a good track. Well equipped and experienced walkers could consider it. The last few periods of warm and good weather (there weren’t many!) brought an end to the mixed season on the Grandes Jorasses. We’re heading into the rock climbing season but we may need to wait for a few days of good weather to climb on the Petites Jorasses. The routes around the huts are doable. The Mont Mallet glacier is tracked. No track on the Aiguille de l’Eboulement but it looks OK.

 

 

 

The snow is melting on the access paths to the Charpoua and the Couvercle but you need to stay alert. There are still some snow patches and some slabs are wet. There are also snow patches on the path from the Couvercle to the Leschaux  The path onto the glacier is delicate.

 

Conditions on the Whymper are also very dependent on the freeze. Feedback from recent teams was that the rimaye can be crossed on the left-hand side, the secondary couloir has hard snow with a more technical icy bit at the top, then unconsolidated snow for the traverse into the main colour. The rest is okay as well as the summit ridge.

 

The Col Armand Charlet has lots of snow making it more technical. Nobody on the Arête/Aiguille du Jardin or the Androsace as there is still too much snow.

 

The normal route on the Droite has been tracked as well as the Courtes there and back. The Pointe Isabelle and the Col des Cristaux are fine.

 

No rock climbing activity as there is too much snow. There is still a lot of snow on the normal route on the Moine but the South ridge and the Contamine have dried out. 

 

Poor freeze has also been an issue up here. On the night of 26/27 June teams heading for the Whymper were sinking in up to their knees.

 

 

 

One team on the Contamine on the Drus without any further information, particularly about the glacier route. There was also an attempt at the Directe Américaine but it stalled because there was too much snow above the “bloc coincé”.  The window for Sale Athée seems to be approaching.

 

 

There's climbing practically everywhere. There's still a bit of snow on some of the routes on Aiguille de Roc and Très-la-Porte.

 

A party has climbed the Grépon-Mer de Glace but it's too early. The rimaye passes tiptop but after that theres a lot of snow and water, snow mushrooms on the top: they did it all in big boots.

 

Descent via the Nantillons glacier in soft snow, lots of purges. Abseil belays were visible , but a bit of a “canyoning" atmosphere.

 

Teams on the Aiguille du Fou (Voie Américaine and Ailes du Désir).

 

 

 

Access to the refuge from Montenvers is on the left bank of the glacier.

 

The ascent/descent of the Vallée Blanche is tracked and goes well even if it is often soft...

 

Glacier de l'Envers du Plan (Midi-Plan descent) tracked.

 

Teams on  Congo Star (snowy access).

 

 

 

Still lots of people (perhaps too many people) on the classics. Nobody on the Jorasses traverse Travis as there is too much snow and lots of cornices. The Rochefort is ok when there’s a freeze. Access to the salle a manger is still on snow. On the Tour Ronde the north face and the Gervusatti are still ok. You need to descend (and if necessary climb) by the Freshfield Arête. The Kuffner Arête is being done and it’s good when there’s a freeze. Watch out for overcrowding.

 

One team left this morning for the Diable traverse but there's surely still a lot of snow. You can climb on the Tacul satellites: Grand Capucin (voie des Suisses/O Sole Mio OK by the direct start or the couloir); Pointe Adolphe Rey; Pyramide du Tacul.

 

 

 

There's still quite a bit of snow at the top of the S face of the Aiguille du Midi, but it's climbable! It's dry on the S face of the Pointes Lachenal.

 

The Trois Monts route is still in very good condition (the rimayes on the Maudit are fine, the Col du Mont Maudit is in snow: be careful on the descent as there is no protection).

 

Arête Midi-Plan, goulotte du Triangle du Tacul OK if refreezing. One party attempted the Bodin-Afanasieff but turned back due to lack of refreeze.

 

 

 

The rock is drying out nicely.

 

There's still snow on the Peigne normal route, which makes it a bit more complicated. The window of opportunity is there for the Frendo Spur. On the other hand, the Mallory-Porter is nearing the end.

 

It's still too early for Charmoz-Grepon, the NW ridge of Blaitière and the Aiguilles de Chamonix traverse, but today it's drying out visibly.

 

 

 

You need to carry skis as far as the glacier. The Jonction can be crossed low down (one bridge to watch out for). It’s tracked on foot and skis, as is the north ridge of the Dôme du Goûter.

 

The north face and plateaux are still in good condition for skiing, provided you aim for the right time (a serac fall on the north face at the classic spot probably messed up the exit from the face)...

 

 

 

Now mountaineers (only) can take advantage of the trains to the Nid d'Aigle (trains at 7am, 12pm and 4pm, booking and presentation of a reservation in one of the refuges required).

 

Good conditions for the moment. On the Bosses ridge, most teams take the path (steep but easy) on the north face to get around the “mauvaise arete".

 

 

 

Access from the Miage refuge is possible with dry feet up to the junction of the two paths. There is still snow on the path from the Col du Tricot.

 

Things are calming down in the area. Bad refreeze, hot weather: the snow is melting and the crevasses are opening up. 

 

However, in the words of the guardian, “The Mettrier remains beautiful". The route is still passable. It may be preferable to take the Lenoir option. 

 

The access to the Durier hut from Plan Glacier is in snow, better with a good refreeze. 

 

Good conditions overall on the busy Aiguille de Bionnassay route.

 

 

 

Access via the glacier is no longer possible. The snow is melting fast on the path, but beware of snow bridges over the torrents, which are high and hollowed out by the high flows (due to the recent heavy rainfall + melting).

 

With a good freeze, all the routes in the area are in good condition - we can't say better than that.

 

 

 

The general conditions are still good, regardless of the quality of the freeze. However, we need to be cautious about the crevasses on the Dôme glacier.

 

A team climbed the Tournette Spur: access OK to Quintino Sella if refreezing, but plan to be early. Rimaye OK but the upper part not so easy due to the quality of the snow.

 

 

 

Aiguille Croux: plan to use crampons and ice axe for access: Cheney route (on descent, we put crampons back on for the median névé of the normal route but the abseil belays are clear); routes on the SE face (Ottoz, Euroteam, Jean- Marie etc) with descent via the Euroteam abseil belays.

 

A team is due to head for the Eccles tomorrow, to be continued (but from the looks of things all the routes are well loaded with snow and cornices above).

 

 

 

Few changes. No problem for well-equipped hikers (good shoes, poles, small crampons in the bag). Beware of a torrent crossing at the Col de la Seigne. The Tricot option is feasible, but not the others (Col des Fours, Pas d'entre deux Sauts, Val d'Arpette closed by the municipality of Orsières).

 

 

 

This activity is reserved for experienced hikers with good crampons! The Cols du Brévent and de Salenton require caution and a mountain footing.

 

 

 

Lots of snow on the grand balcon paths.

 

Lac Blanc (still snow-covered!): a 20-minute walk in the snow from La Flégère (OK with poles and good shoes). Crampons are useful from the Col des Montets/Trè-le-Champs and the Lacs des Chéserys. Still not recommended from the Index; nor is the Planpraz-col Cornu - col de la Glière - Index section.

 

It's also too snowy for hikers on the Col de la Terrasse, Albert 1er and Jonction sections.

 

 

 

Because of the snow, it's still too early to consider this trek (more alpine than the TMB, with several passes approaching 3000m). Most hikers are cancelling for the time being.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

 

We've had a brief taste of summer over the last few days, but high pressure is struggling to get going. As for the wind, it seems to want to settle in for good...

 

Classic conditions for June! In the high mountains, there's a lot of snow and random refreezes (short nights, but the good news is that the days are starting to shorten today... frequent SW winds, cloudy skies), which certainly affects conditions on snow routes. The rock is gradually drying out and is an alternative in the event of poor refreezing. Refreezing has been particularly bad over the last two days, greatly limiting activity. The rain, warm wind and sand have melted the snow visibly, but the snow cover remains promising!

 

In the "moyenne montagne", there's still plenty of snow, which means you need to adapt your choice of hikes and equipment.

 

 

 

No snow patches now on the path up to Albert 1er from Charamillon/Tête de Balme. Snow can be found on the slope just before the moraine. Last Saturday's heavy rains caused a landslide above the couloir on the "moraine path", but this had no impact on practicability.

 

All the classic routes in the area have been climbed: Aiguille du Tour (couloir & Arête de la Table, normal route), Tête Blanche (normal route, N face), Petite Fourche. Good refreezing conditions are needed for the Aiguille du Chardonnet routes (Forbes arete and Migot spur).

 

There's still too much snow on the Dorées traverse, especially on the N side. It can be partially traversed E-W as far as the Col Copt.

 

There's plenty of climbing around the Orny hut including the Clocher du Portalet and on the S face of Les Dorées!

 

 

 

The refuge opens this Saturday, 22 June! As a reminder, there is uplift for mountaineers (only) on the Plan Joran gondola every day except Sunday): 7:30 - 8:30 am / 1:30 - 2:30 pm (ascent and descent) and 5:00 - 6:00 pm (descent only). Tickets can be purchased at the Plan Joran ticket machine (bank card only).

 

The route to the refuge is via the right bank of the glacier (a few crevasses to jump over, but it's fine). Too much snow for the moment on the ladder side.

 

The rock is drying out nicely, so you'll find plenty to do! Too much snow for the Jardin ridge.

 

If there is a decent refreeze snow routes should be fantastic. The Aiguille d'Argentière via the glacier du Milieu was done in good conditions last week. Looking at it, the Couturier couloir could still be climbed.

 

As a reminder, there are major works underway at Lognan-Les Grands Montets. The whole sector is off-limits (see map), but access to the Petite Verte and the Grands Montets ridge is still possible via the Col des Grands Montets (just don't head for the construction site).

 

 

 

The Charpoua refuge is reached via the balcony path (still too early for the "Charpoua Express" variant), on which there is still some snow. No activity apart from climbers on the Flammes de Pierre (the ropes on the Passages des Guides are in good condition, photo above).

 

Still steep névé in a couloir to cross to reach the Couvercle hut.

 

Still too much snow on the south face of the Moine (so too early for the S ridge and E face). Nobody on the other "ecclésiastiques" routes (Nonne, Evêque).

 

Good conditions for the Whymper on the Verte when there's a refreeze. The rimaye goes well, some belays may still be under the snow (plan two 60m ropes) much of the descent is down-climbing not abseiling.

 

Normal route on the Droites possible (lots of snow but no cornices), teams on the Courtes and back. Pointe Isabelle tracked, but needs to refreeze a bit for it to go well.

 

 

 

Several large boulders have fallen onto the terrace of the Leschaux refuge, which is unfortunately no longer guardianed until further notice. The winter room remains open (don't hang around too much on the terrace!)

 

Some opportunists seized the chance to climb the Linceul or Rêve Ephémère, but the foehn has put an end to that. The rock behind the refuge is dry. A period of fine weather should make the Petites Jorasses climbable.

 

The Mont Mallet glacier is going very well at the moment.

 

There are several gullies and névés to cross on the balcony path, so good crampons and ice axe are a must! Not suitable for hikers at the moment.

 

 

 

Bottom of the ladders: there's a knotted rope attached to the rope ladder. It's "sporty" and people abseil down it. The footpath department should intervene soon. 

 

You will find the snow halfway between the ladders and the refuge de l'Envers. It's on the slabs, so you have to be careful, especially when it's getting hot... Getting around the refuge isn't easy either. Hikers, this is not the time for you!

 

The SW wind has dried out the lower sectors (Tour Rouge, Tour Verte, Pointe des Nantillons, Aiguille de Roc: Pedro Polar) where you can climb without a care in the world. For the République normal route and the Grépon-Mer de Glace, a window of good weather should make them possible to climb.

 

The Requin refuge opens this Saturday, June 22. "Still a lot of névé in the couloir, between the ladders (photo below) as well as on the path but on the whole, it's fine".

 

 

 

Not much change up here, as conditions on the classics (Midi Plan ok up to Rognon, Triangle du Tacul etc.) vary with the wind and the refreeze!

 

The season switch (crampons gradually replacing skis) is underway on the Trois Monts route, which remains in good conditions (wind permitting).

 

 

 

Few changes here either (Rochefort, Dent du Géant, Marbrées, Entrèves, Tour Ronde: descent or access via the Freshfield arete). Bad refreeze in recent days and almost no activity. The Kuffner is possible when the freeze is good. We'll have to wait a little for the Jorasses and Aiguilles du Diable traverse.

 

 

 

The refuge is open.

 

You can climb the NE ridge of the Aiguille de l'M, the Pillar Rouge de Blaitière, the SW face of the Gendarme 3078m of the Peigne. Axe and crampons for access, obviously.

 

The Mallory has also been climbed recently, so keep an eye on it as conditions evolve. It's a bit early for the Frendo Spur, but the right window is coming up!

 

 

 

Mont Blanc can still be skied, but the sections on foot are getting longer. The Jonction higher path has deteriorated and you now have to take the lower path. Little has changed above: the Dôme's N ridge, plateaus, Corridors and N face are all good.

 

 

 

Nothing to add to the precise and recent information and photos published on the refuges social media:

 

Ascent to Tête Rousse:

 

- Option from Bellevue, traverse to the Plan de l'Are towards the Nid d'Aigle ladders, some névés at the top but generally dry.

- The Nid d'Aigle refuge has been open since June 8, so drop in and say hello 

- From Nid d'Aigle to Tête Rousse, most of the guides are still on the glacier, with very few people on the Rognes (presence of ice).

 

Ascent to Goûter:

 

- From Tête Rousse to Goûter, great condition, snow everywhere, the cables have been dug out.

- Dôme du Goûter: very good condition

 

And for the final sprint  : 

 

- Option 1: Arête des bosses, "mauvaise arete" icy, 2 threads on the Italian side, 1 thread on the Chamonix side 1m below the ridge. 

- Option 2: North face track in great condition both up and down.

 

 

 

The footbridge on the summer path leading to the Conscrits refuge has been reopened, and the guides have been busy making the path safer. The path can now be used, but beware: there are still many snow-covered sections on which slipping is not an option: crampons and ice-axe are essential, and the route is probably not suitable for hikers for another week or two...

 

For the ascent via the glacier, you now have to cross the torrent on a snow bridge. It is advisable to rope up for this passage, as the bridge will soon be very fragile.

 

Most of the routes in the area were climbed when the weather and refreezing allowed: traverse of the Miage, traverse as far as Durier, Aiguille de la Bérangère, Mont Tondu, traverse of the aiguilles de Tré-la-Tête, good conditions everywhere.

 

There's snow at 2600m when climbing up to the Plan Glacier. The Mettrier arete is still passable. The classic ascent to the Durier should only be considered when there's a good freeze and early in the morning!

 

Aiguille de Bionnassay: Be careful on the ridge before the rocky section (cornices, poor refreezing). Beyond that, it's OK (a few cornices in places on the NE ridge).

 

 

 

Good general conditions: good track, crevasses on the Dôme glacier but goes well, no ice below the Col des Aiguilles Grises or on the way to the Piton des Italiens.

 

 

 

The refuge opens today!

 

Lots of snow here too. (Photos above).

 

The ascent to the Eccles is untracked (the Pillars are still too snowy).

 

 

 

As a reminder, the routes to the left of the Frison Roche are closed until 15 July by a municipal by-law (work on the summit of the Brévent).

 

Crampons and ice axes are required to access the routes. There are a few névés in some of the less steep routes or in the transitions (Hotel California, Cocher-Cochon...).

 

A steep cornice on the Col des Crochues (you can belay the second on a spike on the N side).

 

Voie des Français (Aiguille du Pouce): snow-covered approach, cornice at the Aiguille de la Glière which is easy to avoid. The start is virtually at the second belay (10m below belay no 2, yellow rope). The return via the ridge is complicated (snow, ledges): it's better to wait a little longer!

 

The Perrons traverse is fine (crampons + ice axe).

 

 

 

We're starting with some good news: the Bellachat refuge will be open from Saturday 29 June! Bookings only by telephone on 07 75 83 02 70!

 

Most of the hikes are now accessible, but there is still snow on some of them: contact us to check the conditions. You'll need crampons and mountain boots for the Grand Balcon Nord, Lac Blanc from the Col des Montets and the Lacs des Chéserys, Brévent - Refuge de Bellachat section.

 

On the other hand, it's still too snowy for: Jonction, Gare des Glaciers, Mer de Glace balconies, refuge Albert 1er, col de la Terrasse, col de Salenton/Buet, lac Blanc from the Index, col de la Glière - lacs Noirs - lac Cornu - col Cornu, col du Brévent (you can get round this by going up to Brévent on the piste via the Brèche du Brévent).

 

Tour du Mont Blanc: fine for hikers with some experience (still quite a lot of snow but good tracks on the main passes: Bonhomme, Seigne, Grand col Ferret, Balme, Brévent: go around the latter via the piste and the breche du Brévent)... Good boots, poles and micro crampons in the rucksack are still essential. The Tricot variant is fine, but it's still too dangerous for the Fours and Arpette variants (see photo below for the latter). Watch out for slips/falls and river crossings! 

 

 

Tour des Aiguilles Rouges: it's very snowy at the moment. The first (very experienced) hikers have crossed the cols in the last few days. The trail is not very well marked, so it's quite physical. You need to know your way around on a map, as the paths are not visible for long stretches. Proper crampons are recommended. So this is for the most experienced hikers only! For the others, it's best to postpone!

 

 

Tour des Fiz: Here too, there is still a lot of snow on the route (above 2100m), particularly at the col d'Anterne, col de la Portette (photo above) and Dérochoir. The markings are still not very visible, so a navigation tool and appropriate equipment (poles and crampons) are strongly recommended. Flaine and the Varan from the Platé hut is for experienced hikers only.

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.