19th Century Matterhorn Drawings Go On Display

On 2 July 2022 a temporary exhibition of drawings from the Musée d'Orsay opened which includes two works by Gustave Doré that will be of significant interest to mountaineers and alpine historians; 'The Conquest of the Matterhorn' and 'The Catastrophe on the Matterhorn' done in August 1865 in pen and ink.

Doré was also responsible for the subsequent lithographs of the Matterhorn ascent, produced in consulatation with Edward Whymper and discussed in this Alpine Journal article of 1995 by Alan Lyall. As you will see from the piece, Lyall had not been able to view these two earlier drawings.

The Exhibition is entitled "Les Arpenteurs de rêves; Dessins du Musée d'Orsay" and is at the Palais Lumière in Evian-les-Bains from 2nd July to 1st November 2022. (Details here). It then transfers to the Musée des Beaux-Arts at Quimper from 15 December 2022 to 13 March 2023. 

The two works may also be viewed in significant detail on the website of the Musée d'Orsay by clicking each of the images below.

Many thanks to Mark Boxer for bringing this exhibition to our attention.

 

 

 

Pou Brothers & Micher Quito Add New Line to Pumahuacanca

Following a number of other recent ascents in Peru's Cordillera Blanca, the team of Iker Pou, Eneko Pou & Micher Quito have made the first ascent of a new route on the South-West face of Pumahuacanca (5,563m).

The 1,000m line was climbed alpine style in a single 12 and a half hour push from the team's high camp. This provided the inspiration for the route's name: 'One-Push'. The trio have described it as "the hardest high mountain route of our career", suggesting a grade of M7/85º/V.

More details are available at Planet Mountain.

First Ascent of Karakoram Peak 'Shaue Sar' (6,653m)

Austrian runner and climber Philipp Brugger has announced via social media that he, Tomas Franchini and Lukas Waldner have succeeded in making the first ascent of Shaue Sar (6,653m) via a 2,000m line on the mountain's north face.

The peak, which is located in the Momhil Valley in Pakistan, was both unnamed and unclimbed until the trio's ascent. They chose the name 'Shaue' meaning "horns" in the local language due to the number of ibex they encountered near basecamp.

A more detailed write-up is available at ExplorersWeb.

Mathéo Jacquemoud & Benjamin Védrines Complete Sub-24 Hour Crossing of the Mont Blanc Massif

Alpine Mag report that between the 17 and 18 May 2022, French ski-mountaineer Mathéo Jacquemoud and alpinist Benjamin Védrines completed a traverse of the Mont Blanc Massif from Les Contamines-Montjoie to the Col Supérieur du Tour.

This is the first time that such a traverse has been completed in a single, continuous push and the pair covered 70km, with 7,300m of height gain, in a little over 20 hours.

The pair had practiced sections of the route in advance as the below post from Benjamin's Facebook Page shows: