Introduction

This is a joint Greater Ranges Meet linking the Alpine Club with Karabiner Mountaineering Club of Manchester. It is a single objective expedition to climb Kyajo Ri (6186m).

It is anticipated that applicants will tend to apply as established climbing teams, having already formed a climbing relationship in the UK, Europe or further afield. We are keen to encourage collaboration and new partnerships and there is time to develop these during 2025. Therefore individual applications are also welcome. Once at base camp we would expect all team members to be flexible so that as a team we could cope with altitude or other illness.

The meet will be open to full members of both the Alpine Club and the Karabiner MC, for a total of minimum six, maximum ten places. This is subject to a team-based selection process intended to reflect a good balance, of gender, age range and depth of experience.   

^{Kyajo Ri with route of ascent marked}

The Objective

Kyajo Ri (6186m) is the highest point on the range of mountains sandwiched between the Thame and Gokyo valleys and is accessed from a valley just north of Namche Bazaar (3400m). However, an excellent way to acclimatise fully for maximum chance to succeed on this 6,000m peak is to fly in to Lukla (2800m) then follow an 11-day acclimatisation circuit via Namche Bazarre (3450m), Gokyo (4790m), Gokyo Ri (5360m),  Renjo La pass (5360m) before dropping back towards Thame (3800m) then up the quiet Khumuche Himal valley to base camp at 4,490m. The itinerary then allows a generous 7 full days to climb and descend Kyajo Ri between the various camps. Glacier camp (ABC) is established at 5370m then a Camp I at 5,700m which is accessed through a rock band. Summit day is on an aesthetic narrowing exposed snow ridge/ice pitches/mixed ground to 6,186m on ground of approx. AD+ difficulty – this upper section can feel harder if windy, cold and/or icy. The mountain has been somewhat under the radar and whilst commercial expeditions do climb it, it has a tiny fraction of ascents of the other popular Khumbu peaks as it’s a little harder. The valley has some other interesting mountains of between 5,800 and 6,100 metres, many of which have been climbed only a few times and there are still teams climbing new routes on these peaks, including some of the harder face routes on Kyajo Ri. Check out Phuletate (5597m), (Machhermo 5559m), (Teningbo 5839m), and others.

Previous Experience, Ability and Training

Applicants should expect to be technically and psychologically capable of climbing to the summit in good style and would most likely have recent western Alpine experience of leading and decision making at around AD. Solid Scottish winter mountaineering skills with confidence leading and seconding at least grade II/III would be expected. Overseas travel experience is essential. Some experience of having climbed peaks over 5000m would be useful, although with the careful acclimatisation profile this is not a hard requirement. Team members must be mountain fit. Technical training is a personal matter – all team members should be up to speed with current glacial travel and crevasse rescue best practices.

Application  Process

Applications will be considered by the meet organiser who will seek advice if required. It is not 'first come first served’', the whole team make-up will be part of the decision-making process

Applications are open. The timescale is as follows:

• Closing date for applications midnight Monday 26 January 2025
• References / dialogue with prospective expedition members completed by 7 February 2025
• Invitations to successful applicants issued W/C 8 February 2025.
• Confirmation of participation of those selected by 15 February 2025
• Payment of deposit to meet organiser by 15 March 2025

Costs

Fee: £2,300 to £2,600. The final amount will depend on the size of team.

Flights, Insurance, Personal expenses, appropriate kit etc are additional.

Cost could therefore range from £3,900 ish to £4,600ish all in. This works out at £140 to £164 a day all in - inclusive of fees, flights, insurance and personal expenditure.

Further Information / Online Meeting

Please message the meet coordinator for a full trip dossier.

I’m based in Manchester and am happy to have an online meeting to answer further questions or have a phone call. I have a busy weekday work schedule so please email or WhatsApp me first so I can fit it in the diary.

Meet Coordinator: Andy Stratford - This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.