2024 marks 100 years since the deaths of George Mallory and Sandy Irvine on Everest. George Mallory was on the three expeditions to Everest in the '20s and is the name most associated with these early attempts on the mountain. If there’s one climber that safely makes it onto every climber’s imaginary dinner party table, it’s Mallory.
Great thinkers such as Lytton Strachey, who famously exclaimed “Mon Dieu! George Mallory!”, were blown away by his beauty. Climbers, both armchair and active, have pondered the great question - did they make it? Biographies have been written, but really can you ever know him if you haven’t climbed his routes? These are his art, though I’m not sure what this list says about him! (Hopefully someone can answer that after climbing a few of them.)
If you haven’t climbed the east face of Y Garn (oh the east face of Y Garn), with its awful chossy walls. If you haven’t done that have you really got to know the man, the myth, the climbing visionary? Did they? If he got up that, then I’m saying "Yes!"
Join us at Brackenclose to show Mallory’s Lakeland climbs some love.
Contact: Nigel Buckley - This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
His first ascent list is below and please do report your progress and share your photos on the routes.
Why should you tick this list? Well, because it’s there...
Lakes
Mallory’s Right Hand on Gable Crag - MVS
Mallory’s Left Hand on Gable Crag - VD
Mallory’s Route (North-West by West Climb) on Pillar Rock - HVS
Abbey Buttress Variation 1913 Napes - VD
Wales
Wrong Chimney on Lliwedd - S
Direct 4c finish to Lliwedd’s Far East Cracks - HS
Three Pinnacle Face on Lliwedd - VD
Bowling Green Buttress on Lliwedd - VS 4c
The Garter Traverse on Lliwedd - VS
Birch Tree Chimney on Craig yr Ysfa - D
The Low Climb on Craig yr Ysfa - VD
The Slab Climb on Craig yr Ysfa - VD
The East Face of Gribin on Glyder Fach - VD
Mallory’s Ridge on Y Garn - HVS 5a
Eastern Gutter on Llechog (Cwm Clogwyn)
Trinity Buttress B on Llechog (Cwm Clogwyn)
Trinity Buttress C on Llechog (Cwm Clogwyn)
Adam Rib on Craig Cwm Du - HS 4b
Pis Aller Rib on Craig Cwm Du - S
Yellow Rib on Craig Cwm Du
Black Gates on Clogwyn y Ddysgl - VD
Four Pitch Gully on Clogwyn Cysgod
Scotland
Mallory’s Slab and Groove on Sron and Ciche - VD
Pye and Mallory’s Route on Sgùrr a’ Mhadaidh, North Face - VD
Alps
South east arête of Nesthorn
Finsteraarhorn from SE
Jungfrau from SE
South arête of Unterbackhorn
Dents des Bouquetins (from Atolls glacier)
Mallory-Porter route on Aiguille du Midi
N. ridge of the Grivola
Mont Blanc by the eastern buttress of Mont Maudit
West face of Dent Blanche
Charmoz from Trelaporte
