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Autumnal weather for the last Sunday in August.  With the lower temperatures there was snow down to 2500m.   The Chamonix Aiguilles were plastered with snow but the Aiguilles Rouges escaped. The rocks, though initially humid, were quick to dry with the return of the sun.

Generally, the conditions for hikers are good but today, Sunday, there was a serious rockfall on the path between the Col des Montetts, (Nature Park Chalet) and the Lac Blanc.  This area is very unstable and is closed by order of the council  see here  .

The Chéserys Lakes and Lac Blanc remain accessible from Flégère, Argentière or the path from Trélechamp which passes by the Aiguillette d'Argentière, (ladders). 


The lifts

The Company du Mont Blanc has closed the top section of the Aiguille du Midi : more here  



With the top part of the Midi lift being closed, access to the Cosmiques hut is from the Pointe Helbronner, (Skyway) and traversing the Valley Blanche.  Care needed, with the dry conditions the way is awkward.

Cosmiques Ridge : after the large rockfalls in the middle of last week the route is no longer being done.

Mont-Blanc : The snow bridge over the “Maudit bergschrund” has collapsed.  A party left this morning, (Sunday) to see what is possible, waiting for more info.


Valley Blanche

Rochefort Ridge remains in condition.

Dent du Géant : OK but the approach to the Salle à Manger needs care. 

There are more and more open crevasses on the way up to the Col d’Entrèves.

Grand Capucin : some parties were stopped by the bergschrund. 

Satellites : none of the bergschrunds have been reported as uncrossable for the moment. 

Aiguilles du Diable traverse and the Kuffner Ridge : no news for several days, the approaches are dry and certainly pose a problem.



A few cms of snow this morning (Sunday) and cold.

No problems for climbing the Moine, (normal route and the S Ridge classic). The Moine Ridge on the Verte is still feasible, (the bergschrund goes on the true left bank).  The upper part has snow for the moment.


Envers des Aiguilles

The upper third are plastered with several cms of snow, in the process of drying out.



The rock routes near the hut are popular.

The rock routes on the Petites Jorasses are accessible but currently snow covered.

Grandes Jorasses : The Walker Spur was done at the beginning of last week but there is already  ice after the exit from the black slabs. The face was plastered this morning, (Sunday) and does not get much sun.  The normal descent route is becoming unpleasant, (crevasses, weak snow bridges, stonefall)


Albert 1er

 The classics of the area, Tête Blanche – Petite Fourche – Aiguille du Tour remain popular by their normal routes. The Cols du Tour and Col Supérieur du Tour do not have much snow but are feasible, (be aware of stonefall, especially if other parties are about.)  The Table Ridge remains possible but the start is awkward.



 Regular stonefall has been observed at the Grands Montets Col bergschrund, (access to the Rognon glacier.)  At the hut the main activity is on the nearby rock routes.



 1 cm of snow this morning (Sunday) and cold. Mont Tondu is still being done occasionally, (very dry conditions).

The glacier under the Col des Dômes is very crevassed, take care.

The Dômes de Miage traverse is no longer in condition but it is still possible to do the Central Dôme or the East Dôme, (there and back).  

The Aiguille de Bérangère is still being done (there and back).



Eccles Approach is still OK by the glacier.

Some parties left for the Freney Pillar, awaiting news.

Aiguille Croux and Pointe Innominata are being done regularly.  

As a reminder : the Ratti Vitali is no longer accessible.


Aiguilles Rouges

For the route “Au bord du Gouffre” on the Cathédrale de la Glière large boulders, not normally there, have been reported in the gully, (stonefall ?)


The Chéserys Cliffs : A large block at the belay for the second pitch on “Aubade” is very loose.


Latest Information ( 27/08) :Chapelle de la Glière – south ridge : there is no longer a belay at the top of the Chapelle.  The last pitch is to be avoided.