With the hot weather, the conditions in the mountains are rapidly evolving, especially for the snow and mixed routes. Given the forecast for afternoon storms over the next few days, mountaineering has become a morning activity!
Conditions OK on the glacier, (good track), some ice at the Col Supérieur du Tour but not a problem. Normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche OK.
No major changes since the last report, the bergschrund at the Col des Grands Montets is still awkward, (see last report) but still good conditions for the Rognon glacier.
Conditions are slowly deteriorating, the bergshrunds are getting wider but generally the approaches to the rock routes are still OK.
- Drus traverse remains feasible, cross the glacier high up.
- Normal routes on the Droites and Courtes are too dry, no longer practical.
- Moine, Nonne, Évêque : OK
Envers des Aiguilles
- As you can imagine, the bergschrund for the République/Grépon Mer de Glace (better to start by the République “bananière”) and the Nantillons glacier descent, (ice, a crevasse to abseil, stonefall) are not getting any better!
- No special problems for the (numerous) granite rock climbs.
Valley Blanche/Aiguille du Midi Sector
- Still possible to ascend the Valley Blanche, (some crevasses to avoid).
- Parties on the Renaudie (Aiguille du Requin)
- 3 Monts route re-tracked on 07/08, fresh snow down to 3900m.
Aiguilles de Chamonix
- Keep low on the approach the normal routes on the “M” and Petits Charmoz, to avoid stone fall from Nantillons glacier.
- No problems for the classics in the area, e.g. on the Pilier Rouge de Blaitière and Aiguilles du Peigne/Pélerins.
- the hut closes next week.
- conditions are becoming awkward, difficult to find the best route through the Jonction, (the way now goes lower down, as shown on the IGN map), rock hard snow on the on the N Ridge of the Dôme du Goûter, (2 technical axes needed.) This sector is now for expert mountaineers, who like solitude!
Mont Blanc by the Goûter
Conditions have seriously deteriorated in the Grand couloir and on the way up to the Gouter hut. The route is no longer recommended. More info more here.
Dômes de Miage/ Bionassay / Aiguilles Grises Sector
- Traverse of the Domes is in difficult condition, (ice in places, sections of the ridge airy and necessary to keep to the rocks on the ridge down to Bérangère). For competent parties only.
- There and back to the E Dôme (take care on the glacier) and to the Aiguille de la Bérangère are still in condition.
- Bionnassay traverse is technical but OK, (E ridge airy, ice at the Piton des Italiens). However, given the conditions on the Gouter route, one needs to be fit enough either to continue up to the summit of Mont Blanc and to descend by the 3 Monts route, or descend by the Aiguilles Grises (Gonella).
- A lot of stone fall around the Eccles, parties leaving for the Innominata or the Freney Pillar returned to the hut.
- Brouillard Ridge integral is feasible, (rock quality poor in places,) the Col Emile Rey is not.
-approach to the Noire de Peuterey (Ratti Vitali) and the Blanche de Peuterey (Schneider ledges) by the Col de l'Innominata and the Freney glacier OK. However, one needs to finish by the Mont Blanc summit because returning by the Eccles is no longer feasible. Some parties on the Peuterey integral, no further info.
- the Kuffner and Aiguilles du Diable are still being done (becoming more and more dry.)
- the bergschrunds for the satellite rock climbs are still OK except for the Pyramide du Tacul, which becoming increasingly awkward.
- Dent du Géant and Rochefort Arete in good condition, given early start: sleep at the Torino hut. The climb up to the Salle à Manger is dry but OK if the right line is taken. Given its popularity, care is needed with stone fall, often from other parties going the wrong way
- Grandes Jorasses traverse is in condition, descent by the normal route still OK.
Do not hesitate to consult and contribute to the online Route book