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A quick update before the heatwave forecast for this week.


The thaw continues and will accelerate with the heatwave. However, snow remains in certain sectors.  

The Tour du Mont Blanc, Lac Blanc, Grand Balcon Nord, Point de Vue (Argentière Glacier) are now accessible to those with good footwear and poles, (soft snow).

Ice axe and crampons remain necessary for those going to Jonction, Tour des Aiguilles Rouges, Lacs Noirs et Cornu, Albert 1er hut and the Buet.

As well as the risk of slipping, care is needed when crossing snow covered torrents as the snow bridges are likely to be weak.


The good conditions are going to rapidly change with the imminent of a heatwave.

The re-freezing is likely to be very poor to non-existent, leading to weak snow bridges, awkward bergschrunds, risk of stone fall and unstable snow slopes.  

The spell of good weather will encourage alpine activity.   Because of the expected rapid change in conditions, there is little point in giving a detailed report of recent climbs.  

Rock routes will probably be the best option in the coming week.  However, some snow routes will still be feasible.  The trick is to make the right choice of route, taking into account the latest information before starting out and making the right decisions whilst on the route.  

With the rapidly evolving conditions, the Chamoniarde team thanks you in advance for sending them information from your outings, which allows them to prepare an accurate update for other alpinists.