The Alpine Club, the world’s first mountaineering club, was founded in 1857.  For over 150 years, members have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration. 

With membership, experienced and aspiring alpinists benefit from a varied meets programme, regional lectures with notable guest speakers, reduced rates at many alpine huts, opportunity to apply for grants to support expeditions, significant discounts at many UK retailers, extensive networking contacts, access to the AC Library and maps - and more! 

Becoming a Member
 

News

Report 13 May 2020

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Thursday, 14 May 2020 07:30

Mountain Conditions 13/05/2020

Back in business !!!

A little information as activities restart. Even if one cannot go too far, or too hard and the weather is decidedly unreliable, everyone is happy that we can hike, bike and ski again.   

The Company du Mont Blanc has confirmed that the Aig du Midi cable car and the Montenvers train should be open on weekends 16th/!7th and 21st/24th May.

The snow level has receded a lot during the lockdown period.  Conditions are several weeks in advance compared of other years.  To get an idea, look at the webcams on the Chamoniarde site.

Bad news for the ski tourers, who will have long walks carrying their skis. The skiable snow starts around 1800m on the N side, e.g. 100m below Pierre à Bérard hut, at the water outlet on the true right moraine of the Tour glacier and at the last big bend on the Pierre à Ric below the Lognan station.

Above, the snow is Spring nevé, pleasant to ski but with the more recent snow often being soft and “sticky”.

It is difficult to judge the conditions in the high mountain and  also difficult to access within a day.  The recent bad weather from the SW has plastered snow on the faces and concealed the underlying bad situation.  The Tacul Triangle was seen to be very dry on the 12th May.  Without doubt, snow will have accumulated in other areas and care is needed with unstable conditions.

Hikers will find that the snow level starts around 1800m, regardless of orientation, and is fairly continuous from this level. Therefore, it is too early for hikes to the mountain lakes,  (Lake Blanc, Chéserys lakes, Lake Cornu...), the Grands Balcons etc.

On the other hand there are some beautiful early season walks e.g. Cerro chalet, Bossons glacier, the Floria - Chapeau, Loriaz chalets, Pendant Alpage from Lavancher, Tête de Prapator, Montenvers via the Mottets buvette, Blaitière Alpage, Montagne de La Charlanon, Planpraz via the Plan des Chablettes, Chailloux chalet (some snow still on the Aiguillette des Houches), Prarion via the Col de la Forclaz, Lac Vert and the Ayères chalets, Varan hut.....

The Parc de Merlet opens on  the 16th May. The bridge way to the Bérard waterfall is accessible.

It is also a good time for mountain biking (with or without “assistance”)  and for crag climbing!!!

Please do not hesitate to telephone the Chamoniarde for more precise details or to pass on your information.  

Alpine ClubCast 8 – 26th May at 19:30

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 13 May 2020 13:03

Aiguille des Pélerins

In February 1975 Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse brought hard Scottish style climbing to the Alps with their winter ascent  of the Terray Rebuffat route on the Aiguille des Pélerins.  17 years later Andy Parkin and Mark Twight climbed the nearby ‘Beyond Good and Evil’ and in February this year Jon Bracey, Matt Helliker and Pete Whittaker added ‘Beyond Reason’. In their own way each of these ascents have set new standards for the sport.

Why has this corner of the Chamonix Aiguilles been a test bed for the best climbers of their generation? Find out on 26 May.

Alpine ClubCast 7 - 19th May at 19:30

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 06 May 2020 20:24

“Medical dilemmas on long bivvies….severe headaches, black digits, the squits and more”.

BMC Honorary Medical advisor David Hillebrandt chairs a team of three mountaineering doctors - Chris Imray, Paul Richards and Jeremy Windsor - to share advice, experiences, and a Q&A.

Buying Alpine Club Prints and Photographs

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Tuesday, 05 May 2020 20:09

The Alpine Club owns a large collection of mountain art and photography, formed from donations by members, artists and generous collectors. We are keen to make our collection as available as possible to the public and, in addition to our regular programme of exhibitions, we also offer several ways for you to purchase or license copies of these sublime works.

Whether you're a researcher who wants to inspect a specific image, a media professional in search of historic footage or a lover of mountain art looking to decorate your walls, our team of volunteers are here to help. 

 

Photography

Sandy Irvine on the 1924 Expedition to Mount Everest

The Alpine Club Photo Library extends from the birth of alpinism in the 19th century all the way up to the present day and includes images from some of mountaineering history's most famous expeditions along with a small selection of film footage. If you are searching for a specific image or would like to gain a better idea of our collection, please contact our Photos Team at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. They will be able to assist you with licensing digital copies from our collection.

 

Paintings  

A portion of the Club's artistic collection is available to view on-demand via ArtUK. These high-quality stills, produced from the original works, are also available to purchase as framed prints via the ArtUK website. The funds raised from sales go back into the Alpine Club Library, enabling us to preserve and curate our collection.

A larger sample of our collection can also be viewed on The Watercolour World, but TWW does not currently offer an option to purchase prints of these works.

 

Alpine Club Shop

If you're in the market for something smaller by way of a gift or memento, our shop includes greeting cards and calendars featuring photos and paintings from our collection, as well as pieces from contemporary mountain artists.

Also available for purchase is 'The Artists of the Alpine Club', a compendium of AC artists and their works, compiled and written by Peter Mallalieu and featuring some of the finest examples from our archive.

 

Researchers

Finally, if you are not looking to purchase a work, but would like to see an image or painting from our collection for research purchases, you can always reach out to our librarian at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.. They will be able to direct you to the appropriate department and/or arrange a viewing.

 

 

 

Slovakia Meet, Chata Pri Zelenom Plese

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Thursday, 30 April 2020 20:30

6th - 13th March 2020

Words & Photographs by Alex Metcalfe.

Attendees: Mike De La Rue (organiser), Jonathan Bamber, Alex Metcalfe, Tom Davis-Merry, Mark Grist (guest), Tom Priestly (guest), John Venier, Ian Bryant.

Things did not start well for the AC Slovakia meet. A six hour delay gave members of the team ample time to repack & worry about baggage allowance whilst others went to see the sights and sounds of Luton. The team finally convened that night to fly out and meet the Johns the following day in Tatramanska Lomnica. 

Read more: Slovakia Meet, Chata Pri Zelenom Plese

Alpine ClubCast 6 – 12th May at 19:30

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 29 April 2020 18:44

Nanga Parbat’s Mazeno Ridge 

Rick Allen and Sandy Allan talk about their traverse of the Mazeno Ridge in 2012, which was first attempted by Doug Scott back in 1992.  Scott Ellsworth will speak first on the history of climbing on Nanga Parbat.

Joe Brown

Details
Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Thursday, 16 April 2020 13:12

Members will be saddened to learn that our Honorary Member Joe Brown died yesterday,15 April, peacefully at home,   We send condolences to his family and all his friends.

Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website. 

 

Add new tribute

Alpine ClubCast 3 - 21st April at 19:30

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 15 April 2020 20:24

New routing in unexplored Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan

In 2013 six mountaineers, who had met whilst studying in Leeds and Sheffield, went off on their first expedition. Alpine Club members Tom Bell, Tim Elson and Hugh Thomas were part of the team that travelled to the relatively unexplored area of the Tien Shan mountains on the border between China and Kyrgyzstan. There, multiple glacier systems with multiple unclimbed 5000m peaks had seen few mountaineers before.  Over 4 weeks the team achieved several first ascents and were able to get to grips with the steep learning curve of a first expedition, which was partly funded by grants from the Alpine Club and the Austrian Alpine Club.

Tom, Tim and Hugh will talk about their experiences and afterwards answer questions from the audience.

If you would like to join this ClubCast please check your emails again on Monday 20 April, when a link will be sent out.  The link will also be available on the Alpine Club Facebook Member Area.

Alpine ClubCast 4 - 28th April at 19:30

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 15 April 2020 20:22

The 4000m Peaks of the Alps - Ridges to Remember

Three Alpine Club members talk about their favourite route on a 4000er: Paul Newby on the West Ridge of the Dufourspitze, Max Streeton on the Weisshorn Schaligrat, and Becky Coles on the Lauteraargrat which links the Schreckhorn and the Lauteraarhorn.

Aimed at whetting appetites for a future trip, the talks will be followed by a Q&A session.

Jerry Gore - The Eiger Challenge

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Wednesday, 08 April 2020 11:44

Thank you for all the positive comments about yesterday evening’s virtual lecture.  If you would like to send any feedback please email the office or post them on Facebook. 

We are sorry that the Zoom limit of 100 participants prevented some of you from attending. Please note that a recording will be publicly available shortly.

We are delighted by the interest shown, and as a result the Zoom limit for future virtual lectures has now been increased to 500 participants. The next lecture will be on

Tuesday 14 April at 19:30

The Eiger Challenge

Jerry Gore takes us on a 25 minute bumble up the 1938 route on the North Face of the Eiger.  After his two very different experiences on this iconic route, Jerry gives us his take on how to prepare and train for a successful ascent.

Jerry’s light hearted glimpse at the world of uphill alpinism will be followed by a Q&A session.

If you would like to join this lecture  please check your emails again on Monday 13 April, when a link will be sent out.  The link will also be available on the Alpine Club Facebook Member Area

If you have ideas for future lectures, or other activities for these challenging times, you can share them here:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1kYB-IVQzvlrN3KBPlRCFXbcFRkVTcbBZf6SGU123Ypc/edit?ts=5e85c62f

 

Sikkim: Beyond the Mists with Victor Saunders, Nigel Buckley and Nicholas Hurndall Smith

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Sunday, 05 April 2020 13:16

We hope that you and your families are all keeping well.

While we are all practicing social isolation, the club is proposing to host a series of short virtual lectures, using Zoom. This technology has the advantage that those participating have the opportunity to ask questions directly to the presenters.  

To launch this initiative the presenters of the last London lecture, Victor Saunders, Nick Smith and Nigel Buckley, are planning to broadcast a shorter version of their lecture, live, on

Tuesday 7 April

19:30

Read more: Sikkim: Beyond the Mists with Victor Saunders, Nigel Buckley and Nicholas Hurndall Smith

Swanage Meet Cancelled

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Friday, 27 March 2020 14:29

Due to the corona virus situation the Swanage meet due to take place on Saturday 25th and Sunday 26th April 2020 has been cancelled.

Lundy Meet Cancelled

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Thursday, 19 March 2020 08:08

Due to the corona virus situation the Lundy meet due to take place from Thursday 02 April 2020 to Saturday 04 April 2020 has been cancelled.

Report 6th March 2020

Details
Parent Category: News
Created: Friday, 06 March 2020 21:23

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 06/03/2020

Some (brief) information for the weekend.

One spell of bad weather has been quickly followed by another, making the good weather windows very short. The main activities, therefore, have been off piste skiing, ski touring and snow shoeing, (on the trails at the head of the valley.)

On Thursday, there was 50cms of fresh snow at Vallorcine and a bit more in Courmayeur, (due to pockets of cold air). In the Chamonix valley and the Prealps, (Chablais and Aravis,) it rained up to 2000m

At altitude, there has been 40 to 50cm of new snow reported since Thursday morning. PIDA, (Avalanche Patrols) have released unstable snow with depths of 40cm to 1m, sometimes in large quantities.  

Concerning the off piste, the snow is relatively good and the successive snow dumps have increased the chance of making “fresh tracks”.  Be aware of the avalanche risk.

The three designated ski touring trails (Les Houches, Trapette at Argentiere and Le Tour) are feasible.

All the classic ski tours could be OK but be aware of the avalanche danger. It is possible to start skinning from Notre Dame de la Gorge, Plaine Joux (Pointe de Pormenaz), La Flatiere (Aiguillette des Houches), Buet (Bérard Valley / Buet), Couteray (Loriaz sector), Finhaut (Bel Oiseau sector) and Col de la Forclaz (Pointe Ronde).

Concerning the glaciers, the Argentiere sector is popular, (hut open, telephone working again.) It is still probably too early for the Aiguille d’Argentière by the glacier du Milieu, even if the recent snows have improved the lower part.

No information for the Brèche Puiseux or the Conscrits sectors, (weather windows often too brief.)

The recent snowfalls have improved conditions for the lower part of the Mer de Glace and it is possible to reach Montenvers without problems. The people responsible for the ice cave have put out a warning that the old, (lower,)  ice cave is at risk of collapsing.  It is therefore best not to pass this way but to approach the steps from above.  

The descent by the Mottets snack bar, (open this weekend,) down to Chamonix is possible, with some rocks showing through on the lower part of the glacier and on the bends before the Planards Farm, (not to be recommended to people with new skis!)  

The marked snow shoe trails at altitude are feasible but check first for those managed by the Company du Mont Blanc on their website: : http://www.skiplan.com/bulletin/bulletin.php?station=chamonix&region=alpes&pays=france&lang=en). The more experienced snow shoers can consider the unmarked trails up to Chailloux or Loriaz.

 

For the hikers, it is best to keep down in the valley on the signposted paths.  Please check the avalanche risk before doing certain routes.  For example, the way up to the Chapeau cafe, normally practicable this winter, has frequently to be avoided during the last few weeks due to avalanche risk

Following a stonefall, the path beside the Arve between Les Monquarts and the Eaux Rousses path is closed until 13th March.

There is still icefall climbing on the true left bank of the Argentière glacier, (Déferlante sector) and at Cogne, (Patri, Lillaz gully, Patinaggio Artistico etc).

There is no recent information for the gullies, except for a party seen on the Pellisier (Pointes Lachenal) last weekend.

A party did the Fil à Plomb on Wednesday: deep snow, crux still with ice but too thin for ice screws.  

The gullies on the N face of the Aig du Midi, (Vent du Dragon etc ), and the Triangle du Tacul look to be very dry.

 

 

Trevor Braham

Details
Parent Category: People in the news
Created: Thursday, 05 March 2020 16:09

News has reached us of the death on the 2nd March of our member Trevor Braham, who had been a member since 1951.

Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website. 

 

 

Add new tribute

More Articles ...

  1. AC High Atlas Winter Meet
  2. Report 21 February 2020
  3. Winter climbing festival kicks off
  4. Julian Davey

Subcategories

People in the news
Obituaries
Features